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Hlijois  llistoricsl  Survey 


LIGHTS  MJ)  SHADES 


OF 


MISSIONARY  LIFE: 


C  O  N  T  A I  N  I  X  G 

TEA^TJILS,  SKETCHES,  IXCIDENTS, 

AND 

MISSIONARY  EFFORTS, 

DURING 

NINE  YEARS  SPENT  IN  THE  REGION  OF  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 

BY 


PtEV.  JOHX  H.  PITEZEL, 
»»  • 

ALIAS,  WA-ZAH-WAJI-WA-DOOXG,  OK  '•  THE  YELLOW  BE.\.IU).' 


"Every  matter  in  the  universe  is  linked  in  siacli  wise  unto  others, 
That  a  deep,  full  treatise  upon  one  thing  might  reach  to  the  history  of 
all  things."  Toter. 


C  I X  C  I  X  X  A  T I : 

PRINTED  AT  THE  WESTERN  BOOK  CONCERN, 
FOR  THE  AUTHOR. 

K.    P.    THOMPSOX,    PRIN'TEK. 

'1800. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1857, 

BY  JOnX  H.  PITEZEL, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  fo."  the   Southern  District 
of  Ohio. 


PKEFACE. 


Vaeiety  is  said  to  be  the  "  spice  of  life."  In 
general  this  sufficiently  marks  the  devious  walks 
of  human  hfe  to  break  the  spell  of  monotony. 
But  of  some  stations  this  is  more  especially  true. 
In  suchj  if  not  more  frequent,  it  is  at  least  more 
marked.  The  ^'ups  and  downs"  differ  like  hil- 
locks when  compared  mth  cragged  and  steep 
mountains.  To  some  the  transition  is  greater 
from  toil  to  rest,  from  imminent  danger  to  safety: 
consequently,  the  thermometer,  indicatuag  the  de- 
grees of  pleasure  or  distress  felt,  is  subject  to  rise 
higher  or  fall  lower,  proportionately. 

The  life  of  a  missionary,  in  a  wild  and  unculti- 
vated field,  is  far  from  being  monotonous.  He  is 
constantly  brought   into  contact  with    extremes. 

His  Hfe  is  often  a  checkered  scene  not  all  made 

3 

497039 


4  PREFACE. 

up  of  thorns,  not  all  of  clouds  and  storms.  The 
cheerful  sunlight  often  breaks  in  upon  his  path. 
Hardship  itself  imparts  a  po^Yer  of  endurance  not 
a  gift  of  nature,  enabling  its  possessor  to  frown 
down  formidable  obstacles.  It  is  often  the  lot  of 
missionaries  to  wade  through  the  deepest  trials 
and  experience  the  greatest  consolations. 

The  sketches  given  in  the  following  narrative, 
it  is  hoped,  may  not  prove  entirely  uninteresting 
to  the  indulgent  reader.  Often  it  is.  the  case  that, 
in  new  and  unsettled  portions  of  the  country,  the 
travels  and  labors  of  missionaries  form  an  import- 
ant link  in  its  after  history.  And  without  these, 
the  history  of  the  Church  can  not  be  fairly  writ- 
ten; and  unless  the  missionary  make  the  record, 
it  is  not  likely  to  be  made  by  others.  Indeed,  in 
many  instances,  none  but  he  can  make  it. 

]\Iuch  of  the  early  history  of  the  vast  territory 
stretching  along  Lakes  Huron  and  Superior,  and 
extending  far  into  the  western  wilds,  has  been 
gleaned  from  the  accounts  of  Jesuit  missionaries. 


P  K  i:  FACE 


Wc  can  not  but  admne  the  pains  taken  by  Ma- 
caulay,  in  his  History  of  England,  to  describe 
what  England  was  a  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago, 
compared  with  what  England  is  now.  So  when 
we  read  over  the  privations  and  conflicts  of  the 
early  settlers  of  our  own  country,  we  are  inspired 
with  gratitude  at  the  onward  march  of  improve- 
ment and  our  own  superior  advantages.  The 
means  of  conveyance;  the  different  methods  of 
travel;  the  difference  between  the  exposures  of 
the  wilderness  and  the  comforts  of  a  country  where 
the  forests  have  been  cleared  and  towns  and  cities 
have  sprung  up,  with  all  the  new  inventions  for 
annihilating  distance  and  labor,  weigh  not  a  little 
in  the  scale.  It  is  certainly  not  unworthy  of  note 
whether,  in  crossing  the  great  deep,  we  are  to  be 
conveyed  in  a  bark  canoe,  an  open  boat,  in  filthy 
and  uncomfortable  schooners,  the  proud  brig,  or 
the  stately  steamer,  where  ease  itself  becomes 
painful  and  luxury  begets  loathing.  Nor  is  it 
of  less  interest  whether  journeys  made  by  land 


6  PREFACE. 

be  performed  on  foot,  with  the  aid  of  snow-shoes, 
through  a  wintery  wilderness  where  the  habitation 
of  man  is  seldom  seen,  where  the  pedestrian  is 
compelled  to  shoulder  his  own  bed  and  ne-ioali-jyoo, 
or  provisions,  and  erect  his  rade  shelter  of  boughs 
for  temporary  sojourn,  or  whether  the  route  is  the 
beautiful  turnpike  over  which  the  traveler  rolls  on 
elhptic  springs,  finding,  at  frequent  intervals,  com- 
modious inns,  or  flies,  in  the  rail-car,  over  mount- 
ain and  valley. 

In  a  letter  from  Rev.  D.  P.  Kidder,  D.  D.,  in 
reference  to  the  unpretending  work  now  offered  to 
the  public,  he  says :  "  Indeed,  I  think  it  the  duty 
of  those  who  can,  to  furnish  the  Church  with  suit- 
able records  of  their  missionary  labors,  and  to  per- 
petuate some  knowledge  of  the  aboriginal  races 
of  our  continent,  now  so  fast  fading  away."  Such 
has  been  the  aim  of  the  writer,  so  far  as  his  mate- 
rial and  the  time  he  could  devote  to  this  work 
would  admit.  How  far  he  has  succeeded  is  left 
to  the  good  sense  and  judgment  of  the  reader. 


PREFACE.  7 

Tremblingly  hoping  that  this  little  volume  may 
be  acceptable  to  ministers  and  members  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  and  the  reading  pub- 
he  generally,  and  that  its  influence,  as  far  as  it 
extends,  may  tend  to  promote  the  great  mission- 
ary cause,  and  thus  advance  the  E-edeemer's  king- 
dom in  the  salvation  of  man,  it  is  now  sent  forth 
without  apology. 

J.   H.   PiTEZEL. 
Faw  Paw,  Mich.,  June  5,  1857. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER    I. 

Author  appointed  missionary — A  new  era — Missionary  spirit — Arrive  at 
Detroit — John  Owen— J.  S.  Harrison — Geo.  "W.  Brown — Sabbath — 
Steamer  Constitution — Accommodations  —  Lake  St.  Clair — Scenery — 
Indians  —  Wesleyan  missionaries  —  Lake  Huron  —  Reunion  —  Saginaw 
Bay — Island  of  Mackinaw — Indian  lodges — Indian  annuity — "Big  Tur- 
tle "  —  ilr.  Balotes  —  Traders  —  Whisky — Drunkenness — Results  —  Mr. 
Stuart  —  Transparent  waters — A  Christian  Indian  family  —  Rer.  Mr. 
Daugherty — Catholicism — Its  time-serving  policy — Fort  Mackinaw — ■ 
Rev.  Mr.  O'Bryan  —  Fort  Holmes  —  Sugar  Loaf — Arch  Rock  —  The 
Scenery — Poetical  impromptu — Preaching — "General  Scott" — Garden 
River— Saut  Ste.  Marie— James  Ord,  Esq.— Fort  Brady— Rev.  W.  H. 
Brockway Page  21 

CHAPTER    II. 

Saut  Ste.  Marie  mission — John  Kah-beege — Introduction  to  the  mission — ■ 
Mission-house — Gloomy  aspect — Improvement — Site  of  the  mission- 
Scenery — Religioxis  aspect — Indian  devotion — First  Sabbath — Preach- 
ing— Indian  meetings — S.  Spates — Family  worship — S.  Hall — Schools — 
Domestic  cares — Roman  Catholic  Indians — "Wedding — Christmas  and 
New  Year — Baptism — Sunrise  scenery — Travels — Nimrod — Scene  of 
wigwams — Domestic  scene — Indian  heathenism — Fishes  and  Fishing — 
Close  of  winter — Summer — Visitors — Temptation — Sabbath  desecra- 
tion— Notes  of  Study — Close  of  the  year — Appointment  to  the  Kewa- 
wenon  mission 35 

CHAPTER    III. 

Voyage  to  Kewawenon — Outfit — Embarkation — Rough  waters  —  Grand 
Sable — Pictured  Rocks — Grand  Island — Dead  River — Arrival Gl 

9 


10  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Kewav/'enon  mission — Kewenaw  Bay — "  UAnae  " — Indian  cabins — Prepa- 
rations for  winter — Mr.  and  ^Mi'S.  Marksman — Produce  from  the  mission 
garden — Furniture — Sclaools — Sabbatli  school — Scarlet  fever — Manual 
labor — Religious  aspect — Indian  membership — Meetings — Encouraging 
tokens — Severity  of  winter — Providential  deliverance Page  72 

CHAPTEE    V. 

Trip  to  La  Pointe — The  canoe — The  company — Wind-bound — Coasting — 
James  Schoolcraft — Heavy  sea — Missionaries  of  American  Board — Their 
mission — Religious  exercises — S.  Hall — New  Testament  in  Ojibwa— 
Rev.  Mr.  Wheeler — Schools — Hospitality — Indians  from  the  woods^ 
Their  condition — Their  wretchedness — War-dance  and  heathen  burial — 
Indian  burial — The  feast — Return — Becalmed — Rock  Harbor — Copper 
Harbor — A  Jix — Dr.  Houghton — Bay  Degree  —  Hazardous  landing — 
Dreary  night — Unsuccessful  attempt  to  re-embark— Sabbath— Arrive  at 
the  mission 86 

CHAPTEE    YI. 

Second  year — Potato  crop — Eagle  river — Author  dubbed  Captain — G. 
Bedell — Backslidings  and  revivals — '"'Man's  extremity,  God's  opportu- 
nity"—Christmas  eve — Pastoral  visiting — David  King — Indian  notion 
of  weeping — Rowdies — Accession  to  the  Church — Fiery  trials — Better 
days — Travels — Chief  Monomonee — Efforts  of  a  Catholic  priest — Outfit 
for  traveling  —  Character  of  the  country — Lodging  at  night  —  Carp 
river — Hospitable  reception — Snow-shoe  lameness — Contrivance  for  the 
emergency — Indian  treatment  for  the  case — W.  B,— His  misrepresenta- 
tion— Reach  home — Handicraft — Making  shoes — Fortune  seekers — Town 
election — Author  attends  conference  at  Marshall 104 

CHAPTEE    VII. 

Interesting  conference — Author  reappointed  to  Kewawenon  mission — J. 
W.  Holt,  assistant— Arrive  at  the  Saut— Schooner  Fur  Trader — Fair 
■winds  and  deceitful  prospects — Head  winds  and  heavy  seas — Imminent 
danger — Panic  among  the  passengers — Uncomfortable  condition— Cap- 
tain R.  and  his  crew — Driven  back  to  Fort  Brady— Captain  B. — Grand 
Island— Mr.  W.  — His  family  —  Arrival  home  — Mr.  B.~His  sudden 
death — Silver  mountain — A  mine  in  prospect — Location  a  bone  of 
contention  —  Disappointment  and  loss — The  uncertainty  of  worldly 
riches 121 


CONTENTS.  11 


CHAPTER    YIII. 

TiTSt  visit  among  the  miners— Reception— Preaching  and  traveling— Re- 
turning— Bewildered— Wanderings  by  day— Lodging  by  night— Fare  in 
the  wilderness— Impassable  swamps— Situation  perplexing:^Comes  to 
Portage  river — Is  relieved  by  a  boat — Author  reaches  home  after  much 
fatigue  and  suffering— Statistical  table— Subsequent  visits  among  the 
miners — State  of  things  at  Kewawenon — Conversion  of  J.  T.  and  wife 
from  Popery — Erection  of  a  church — The  young  Indian,  Joshua  Soule — 
His  sad  end— Visits  of  the  Superintendent Page  131 

CHAPTER    IX. 

Michigan  annual  conference— A  change — Difficulties — P.  0.  Johnson  and 
^ife_The  new  field— The  cabin— Wants  supplied— ^Jslining— The  per- 
petual din— Speculation— '•Humbug"—Tisitations— The  English  min- 
ers—German  and  Irish— Baeksliding—ileeting-place— Dancing— Author 
invited  to  a  Christmas  ball— Declines  the  invitation— Four  reasons  for 
declining — Some  favorable  characteristics  among  the  miners — Congre- 
gational singing • "l^O 

CHAPTER    X. 

Eagle  river— Origin  of  the  name— The  town— The  cliff— View  from  the 
top— Trouble— Soil— Farming— Picturesque  scenery— Number  of  work- 
men at  the  Cliff  Mine — Captain  Jennings — L.  Hanna— Character  of  the 
miners— A  look  into  the  mine — The  stamps — Monthly  amount  of  copper 
mined — The  tdiim — The  sheer — Preparations  to  enter  the  mine — The 
descent  by  ladders — The  stnll,  or  x>ent-hoitse — Exceeding  richness  of  the 
mine — Best  time  for  visiting  the  mine — The  various  operations  of  the 
workmen 165 

CHAPTER    XI. 

Close  of  the  conference  year — Conference  at  Kalamazoo — Delightful  Sab- 
bath at  sea— Public  worship — Author  tarries  at  the  Saut  during  con- 
ference— New  acquaintances  —  Little  Rapids  —  Favorable  religious  as 
pect  —  Mr.  Richmond  —  Ramsey  Crooks  —  Mrs.  Hanna  —  Rough  sea- 
Arrival  at  Copper  Harbor — Author  appointed  Superintendent  of  the 
missions  in  the  District — Birth  of  a  son — Arrival  of  missionaries — Case 
of  delirium  tremens — Arrival  at  the  Saut — A  new  home — Reflections — 
Sad  end  of  a  drunken  Indian — Dreadful  influence  of  rum  upon  the 
Indians 1 '^•i 


12  C0^' TENTS. 


CHAPTEE    XII. 

Visit  to  (harden  river — Trips  to  Naomikong — Cold  jonrney — Eeacli  Cart 
J  river  —  Te-quali-me-non  —  The  old   squaw  —  King-hawk  —  Kah-ha-no- 
.,  den — Interview  with  him — Return   to  Kaomikong — Waishkees   Bay — 
■■♦  Reach  home — Trip  during  the  "crust-moon" — Derivation  of  the  name — 
^J\odaway — The  Ojibwas — Slaughter  of  the  Nodaway — Indian  medicine 
'men — Ceremonies  of  initiation — Precepts  binding  upon  medicine  men — 
Caraboo  meat — She-gud — Interesting  love-feast — xin  aged  widow — Re- 
turn home Page  187 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

Summer  tour  among  the  missions — Arrive  at  La  Pointe  —  Preaching 
aboard  ship — Schooner  exchanged  for  a  canoe— Appropriate  Scripture 
reading— Sabbath  on  shore— A  heavy  storm— Reach  St.  Louis  river- 
Fond  du  Lac  mission — Fall  of  the  native  missionary — Slight  progress 
at  the  mission — Indian  council — The  chief,  Shingobc — Author  addresses 
the  Indians — Nah-gah-nup  replies — Author  rejoins — Xah-gah-nup  re- 
plies again — The  head  chief  speaks — Discouraging  prospect  for  Sandy 
Lake — Interview  with  Dr.  Norwood — The  route — Reach  Knife  Port- 
age— Grand  Rapids— Difficult  ascent— Tempest— Musketoes— Arrive  at 
Sandy  Lake  —  A  conjurer  —  His  maneuvers  —  Modern  spiritualism  — 
Council — Sandy  Lake  mission — Contest  between  paganism  and  Chris- 
tianity—Leave Sandy  Lake— Sabbath  at  La  Pointe— Arrive  at  Kewa- 
wenon — Mrs.  Barnum — Kewawenon  mission — Baptism — Arrive  at  Eagle 
river — Eagle  River  mission — Arrival  home 200 

CHAPTER    XIY. 

Saut  de  Ste.  Marie  mission — Little  Rapids — J.  D.  Bingham — P.  0.  John- 
son— National  fast — Appearance  of  cholera — Death  of  Mr.  Stevens  and 
Captain  Hicks— Other  deaths— Embark  for  Detroit— Arrive  at  Adrian, 
the  seat  of  the  conference — Dr.  Hinman — An  interesting  conference — 
Return  to  Saut  Ste.  Marie — Missionaries  in  company 221 

CHAPTER    XY. 

Naomikong — A  new  mission-house — Collecting  the  materials  —  Return 
home — A  second  trip  to  Naomikong — A  third  trip — Memorable  love- 
feast— Additions  to  the  Church  —  Mother  Waishkee  —  Remarkable 
Instance  of  filial  affection  —  Fourth  trip  — Return— Sermon  on  the 
occasion  of  the  death  of  Zachary  Taylor,  President  of  the  United 
States - 22'^ 


CONTENTS.  13 


CHAPTER    XYI. 

Trip  to  Sandy  Lake — Mr.  Sawyer — Rough  sea— Precarious  situation — 
Storm  ceases  —  Safe  arrival  —  Fort  Wilkins  7— Grand  Portage — Mrs. 
Hughs — East  Savan  river — Xo-ko-mis — War-dance — Appearance  of  the 
savages — Speech  of  an  old  chief — Martin  Luther's  speech — Another 
speech  of  the  chief — His  marriage — Baptism  of  his  children — Astonish- 
ment of  the  wild  Indians — Famine  —  Dreadful  suffering  —  Cannibal- 
ism   Page  234 

CHAPTER    XYII. 

Return  from  Sandy  Lake — A  storm  —  Reach  Grand  Portage  —  Wind- 
-.  bound — Reflections — Reading — Trial  of  faith  necessary — Yoyage  con- 
tinued— Great  boat — Reach  La  Pointe — Mr.  Oaks — Black  river — Drunken 
squaw — Land  at  Iron  river — A  trying  day — Reach  Ontonagon — 3Irs. 
Douglas  —  The  fatal  cup  —  Fatal  results  —  John  Southwind — David 
King — Mr.  Sheldon — D.  D.  Brockway — Arrive  at  the  Saut 249 

CHAPTER    XYIII. 

Condition  of  the  missions — The  extreme  posts  —  Kewawenon  —  Labors 
of  Mr.  Crane — His  success  and  sorrows — Eagle  river — The  Saut — Mis- 
sionary news — Condition  of  Sunday  schools — "Angels  unawares"— 
John  Petei-son — Rev.  A.  Atwood — Liberality  of  Mr.  Peterson — En  route 
for  conference — Arrive  at  Detroit — Tiffin  City — Great  changes — Adrian — • 
Albion — Interesting  session — Winter  supplies — Arrival  at  the  Saut — • 
Death  of  little  Henry — Sorrow — Dr.  Durbin 264 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

Quarterly  meeting  at  Naomikong — Snow — Illness — Improvements — Relig- 
ious prospects — Interesting  meeting — Sacrifices — Author  takes  charge 
of  a  school — Temperance — Meetings  and  lectures — Result — ilysterioua 
disease — Deaths — Collision  on  the  Lake — Foundering  of  the  Manhat- 
tan— Lives  saved 274 

CHAPTER    XX. 

Visits  among  the  missions— Entering  the  St.  Louis  river— Arrive  at  Fond 
du  Lac — Sandy  Lake — Mrs.  Spates — Public  worship — Sermon  to  the 
Indians — Behavior  of  a  heathen  Indian — Lawlessness — Route  home- 
ward— Bad  River  station — Musketoes  and  gnats — Rough  sea — Ontona- 
gon river— Minncsotii  iMiuc— The    Monticello— Independence—  Manner 


14  CONTENTS. 

of  the  Author's  spending  the  day — Kog-wa-on — What  he  said  to  the 
missionary — The  missionary's  reply  —  Phoenix  Mine  —  Arrival  at  the 
Saut Page  283 

CHAPTER    XXI. 

Impediments  to  the  evangelization  of  the  Indians — Removal  of  the  place 
of  payment — Destitute  situation  of  the  Indians  at  Sandy  Lake — Sick- 
ness and  death — Numerous  graves — Destruction  of  canoes — Distress  of 
the  Indians — Report  of  the  missions  as  published — Saut  Ste.  Marie — 
Naomikong — Waishkees  Bay  —  Kewawenon — Carp  river — Sandy  Lake 
and  Mill  Lac — Fond  du  Lac— Eagle  river — Ontonagon 298 

CHAPTER    XXII. 

Author  commences  the  labors  of  another  year — Improvements  at  Naomi- 
kong—Rev.  Mr.  M'Dougall— S.  P.  Church— Trip  to  the  Bruce  Mine- 
Cordial  welcome — Temperance  speeches — Preaching — Baptism  and  the 
Lord's  supper — Return  home— Trip  to  Naomikong — Difficult  traveling- 
Preaching  and  awakening 312^ 

CHAPTER    XXIII. 

Religious  prospect  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie — Increased  attention  and  interest- 
Rev.  Mr.  Porter  and  Rev.  Mr.  Bingham — Rev.  John  Clark — Conversion 
of  a  lady — Her  great  joy  in  God — Author  visits  her  husband  and  other 
soldiers  in  the  For> — Some  interest — Conversions — A  class  organized — 
An  incident — Interesting  meetings— The  inebriate — Melancholy  cas- 
ualty— Death  of  a  wicked  man— His  funeral 321 

CHAPTER    XXIV. 

Author  commences  a  tour  of  visitation — Steamer  Baltimore — Accommo- 
dation?— Reading — Contrast— Marquette — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Benson — Mrs. 
Barnum — Kewawenon — Appearance  of  the  mission — Mr.  Barnum's  mis- 
sionary report — Quarterly  meeting— Council — Rev.  S.  Steele— E.  H. 
Day — Visit  to  various  mines  —  Man  killed  by  falling  —  lilness— Dr. 
Senter  —  Reach  home — Trip  to  Carp  river  —  Great  change  wrought 
around  Lake  Superior — Return— Providencc—Summerficld — National 
discourse 332 

CHAPTER   XXV. 

Camp  meeting  at  White  Fish  Point— Published  account— Rev,  L.  War- 
ner—His   preaching  — Peter    Jones  — Description   of  him— Sallows, 


CONTENTS.  15 

M'Dougall,  and  Blaker — Indians  at  the  meeting— Their  conduct— Mar- 
riage— Missionary  meeting  —  Love-feast  and  sacrament — Remarks  at 
the  lov'c-fcast — Close  of  the  meeting — Indian  christening — Temperance 
meeting — Peter  Jones's  account  of  the  temperance  meeting-  -Page  345 

CHAPTER    XXVI. 

Revival  at  the  Saut— Declension — Troops  at  the  Fort  ordered  to  Califor- 
nia— Sergeant  31.  and  family — Remove  to  "Wisconsin — Members  left — 
The  congregation— Sunday  School — Naomikong — Prosperity — Extract 
from  the  annual  report — Deaths — Dying  sister — Account  of  a  pagan 
•woman— Revival  meetings — Statistics — Day  school — Sabbath  school — 
The  children — Value  of  the  mission  property — Houses  built  by  the 
Indians — Industrial  pursuits  among  them— Camp  meeting — Small-pox 
at  the  Saut — Kewawenon— Report — Usual  prosperity— Indians  con- 
verted— Number  of  members — The  schools — Eagle  River  mission — A 
laborious  field — S.  Steele — Well  sustained— A  prosperous  year- !Mis- 
sionary  money  raised — German  mission — Statistics  of  Church  and  Sab- 
bath school— Letter  from  S.  Steele  to  the  author — Ontonagon— E.  H. 

[^  Day— His  labors  encouraged  by  the  people— Sunday  school  statistics — 
Carp  river — Great  iron  mines — Rev.  William  Benson — Failure  of  sup- 
Xjlies— Result— Supplies  forwarded — "Old  stamp"  Methodists— Another 
call  for  missionary  help — Isle  Royal — Lumbermen  visited — General 
tables  of  statistics - 363 

CHAPTER   XXVII. 

Communication  from  Dr.  Durbin — Transfer  of  missions  to  Wisconsin  con- 
ference— Author  and  family  embark  for  Detroit — Rev.  Mr.  M'Dougall— 
Touch  at  Mackinaw — Steamer  Atlantic — Reflections  on  the  close  of  tho 
conference  year — Arrive  at  Detroit — Toledo — Cholera — Confined  mostly 
to  emigrants  and  the  intemperate— Reach  Adrian — Pleasant  greetings — 
Great  changes — Reach  Chicago — Arrive  at  Sheboygan — Fond  du  Lac — 
The  conference— Its  appearance — Rev.  E.  Yocum— W.  H.  Sampson — 
Dr.  Adams— Rev.  C.  Hobart — Sabbath  meetings— Conference  love- 
feast- Sermon  of  Bishop  Ames— Its  character — Catholic  priest — His 
meetings  —  Michigan  conference  —  Pleasant  home — Preaching — Bishop 
Scott — Agreeable  session — Author  appointed  to  Kalamazoo  station- 
Reflections  on  leaving  the  mission  district — Reach  Adrian  and  Albion — 
An-ivc  at  Kalamazoo — The  new  charge — Journey  to  the  Saut — Packing 
for  removal — Missionaries — Sabbath — Farewell  sermon — Rev.  James 
Shaw — Last  moments  in  the  empty  house — Huruiliation,  joy,  and  conse- 
cration— Last  visit  to  little  Henry's  grave — Resignation  and  hope — 
Homeward  bound — Arrive  at  Kalamazoo S75 


16  CONTENTS 


CHAPTER   XXYIII. 

Woman — Her  part  in  the  missionary  work — The  Christian  lady  at  an 
Indian  mission — New  sights,  sounds,  and  influences — Her  associates — 
The  charm  and  romance  at  first — The  spell  broken — Sympathy  with  the 
'  P;:ialmist — Domestic  cares — Burdensome  visitations — Training  of  chil- 
dren— Partnership  of  the  wife  in  the  labors  and  sufferings  of  her  hus- 
band— Contrast  of  housewifery  at  the  Protestant  and  Catholic  stations — 
Long  absences  of  the  husband — Letter  from  a  missionary's  wife  to  her 
husband — Travels  of  the  female  missionary — Hardships  incident — Re- 
volting scenes — Letter  from  Mrs.  Spates  to  Mrs.  Pitezel — Desolation  and 
famine — Potatoes  the  principal  food — Great  moral  darkness  ••  Page  385 

CHAPTER    XXIX. 

Indian  characteristics — His  affection  for  his  traditional  history — The  sad 
coming  of  the  "  pale  faces  " — A  superficial  glance  not  sufficient  to  esti- 
mate properly  the  Indian — The  shades  of -the  wilderness  his  home — The 
blessings  of  civilized  life  absent — The  seeming  natural  inference — Thfj 
Indian's  want  of  opportunity — Fate  of  such  as  have  resided  among 
Indians — Names  of  renown — Intellectual  capacity  of  such  unquestion- 
able— Fine  specimens  of  impassioned  eloquence — Speech  of  Sastarexy 
pending  the  giving  up  of  Le  Pesant — Speech  of  Logan  after  all  his 
relatives  had  been  murdered — Speech  of  Black-Hawk  after  failing  to 
effect  the  deliverance  of  his  people — Indians  imitative  beings — Skill 
of  Indian  women — Progress  in  the  various  arts  of  civilization — Indian 
love  of  liberty  and  independence — Indian  history  a  history  of  wars — ■ 
Savage  ferocity  and  cruelty  in  war — Mr.  Frost's  testimony  on  this  sub- 
ject— Treachery — Indians  seldom  aggressors — Degradation  of  Indian 
women — The  term  woman  a  reproach — Gov.  Cass  and  the  disgraced 
Indian — Drudgery  devolves  upon  the  women — This  not  compulsory  but 
voluntary — Simplicity  of  their  language — Expressive  terms — Coat  of 
arms — Indian  mythology  and  religion — Extract  from  Hall's  Life  of 
Clark — The  Great  Spirit — Polytheism — Divers  divinities— Sacrificial 
offerings — Superstition — The  priesthood — Universal  deluge — Incarna- 
tion— Idolatrous  and  polytheistic  worship— Signification  of  Ifaekinaw — 
Sacred  rock  in  St.  Louis  river — Ma-ne-hu-zlio,  of  the  Ojibwas — Imago 
representing  this  god — Greatest  blessings  attributed  to  him — Longfel- 
low's song  of  Hiawatha 398 

CHAPTER   XXX. 

Plea  for  Indian  missions— Skepticism  on  this  subject — Opinion  of  a  gen- 
tleman of  learning  and  talent— Reports  of  Messrs.  Foster  and  "Whitney  — 


CONTEXTS.  17 

Their  disparaging  statement  of  the  result  of  Christian  missions — The 
assumption  denied  as  unfounded — Heaven's  mandate  to  be  obeyed — 
Eesult  of  the  Iniian  wars — Statements  of  Government  ofiBcers  corrob- 
orate the  favorable  reports  of  missionaries — Mr.  Tyler's  message,  1842 — 
Extract — Argument  from  the  few  as  yet  Christianized — Ratio  of  con- 
verted Indians  to  the  whole  favoi-able — Results  of  the  Christianizing 
process— Wesleyan  missionaries  in  Canada— Speech  of  Yellow  Head, 
head  chief  of  the  Chippewas— Speech  of  Penashe,  chief  at  Kewawe- 
nou,  in  reply  to  Yellow  Head — Clear  testimony  of  these  speeches  touch- 
ing the  power  of  the  Gospel  upon  the  Indian — Indians  a  part  of  the 
"purchased  possession" — Christianity  a  debtor  to  the  Indian — The 
Indian's  choice  is  between  two  alternatives :  Christian  civilization  or 
extinction — Encouragement  from  prophecy Page  41 0 

CHAPTEK    XXXI. 

Lake  Superior  region — Its  exhaustless  wealth — Hitherto  mostly  un- 
known— Great  change — Commerce,  mining,  and  agriculture — Reports 
of  Messrs.  Foster  and  Whitney — Dr.  Houghton — His  important  servi- 
ces— The  Jesuit  missionaries — Xative  copper — How  regarded  by  the 
Indians — Alexander  Henry — ^Mining  since  1844 — Mining  four  hundred 
years  ago— Samuel  0.  Knapp — Extract  from  Foster  and  Whitney's 
reports — Proof  of  high  antiquity  from  the  forest  trees  over  the  works — 
No  traditions  of  the  ancient  mines — Lake  Superior  region  not  adayjted 
to  farming  purposes — Soil  of  the  south  shore — Surprising  rapidity  of 
vegetation — Products — Fisheries  and  pineries  the  principal  matters 
of  commerce — Saut  Ste.  Marie  canal — Advantages  and  attractions  of  the 
Lake  Superior  region — Romantic  scenery — Setting  sun — Aurora  bore- 
alis-T-Mirage — Late  twilight  and  early  dawn — State  of  society  not  fa- 
vorable—Laxity of  morals — ^A  proud  destiny  in  the  future — Con- 
clusion  422 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADES 

OF 

MISSIONARY    LIFE. 


■mp 


LIGHTS  AND  SHADES 


OP 


missiojn^art  life 


CHAPTER    I. 

APPOINTMENT     AS    JIISSIONARY  —  VOYAGE 
TO    THE    SAUT. 

At  the  Michigan   annual  conference,  held  at  Ann 
Arbor,   August   16,  1843,  Rev.  W.   H.   Brockwaj, 
then  superintendent  of  the  Indian  missions  of  Lake 
Superior,  applied  to  me  to  go  as  a  missionary  into 
his  district.     After  prayerfully  considering  the  ms^j^ 
ter,  I  gave  my  consent,  in  case  the  Bishop  shouW^  - 
assijin  me  such  a  field.     In  a  free  conference  Tvith  '- 
Mr.  Brockway  and  Bishop  Soule,  it  was  arranged  that 
Tve  should  take  charge  of  the  misi^iop.  at  Saut  de  Ste. 
Marie.     To  make  the  needful  preparation,  with  the 
least  possible  delay,  I  left  the  conference  in  session, 
and  repaired  to  Adrian,  near  which  was  Mrs.  P.  and 
our  only  child,  then  in  her  third  year,  at  a  sister's. 

I  had  before  formed  some  idea  of  the  ruggedness 
of  that  northern  clime,  and  of  the  obstacles  in  the 
way  of  missionary  effort ;  and  future  experiment 
proved  that  they  were  not  overrated.     No  one,  who 


22  LIGHTS  AXD   SHADES  OF 

values  the  priceless  blessings  of  civilized  society,  can 
consent  to  part  mth.  them  ^vitliout  a  struggle,  and 
delve  into  such  scenes  as  fill  every  land  of  paganism. 
To  embark  in  this  enterprise  put  the  faith  and  reso- 
lution of  Mrs.  P.  to  a  severe  test.  Her  friends  also 
felt  as  if  vre  were  about  to  be  exiled.  But  sober 
second  thought  chased  away  gloomy  apprehensions, 
and  led  to  hopeful  trust  in  God.  I  felt  to  look  upon 
this  date  as  a  new  era  in  my  life.  The  missionary 
fire  had  before  been  enkindled  in  my  heart,  and  an 
inward  desire  to  cultivate  mission  ground;  but  up 
to  this  time  no  door  seemed  to  open  to  me.  I  had 
made  the  language  of  the  poet  my  own : 

"  Should  Providence  command  me  to  the  farthest  yerge  of  the  green  earth, 
To  distant  barb'rous  climes, 

'Tis  naught  to  me,  since  he  is  ever  present,  ever  felt, 
In  the  void  waste  as  in  the  city  full. 
And  where  he  vital  breathes  there  must  be  joy." 


The  language  of  my  heart,  as  recorded  at  the  time, 
was,  "Hitherto  the  Lprd  hatF^helped  us,  and  here 
by  his  grace  will  we  raise  our  Ebexezee." 

August  25th  we  left  Adrian,  taking  with  us  Mrs. 
P.'s  sister,  then  a  girl  twelve  years  of  age,  for  De- 
troit, via  Monroe,  where  we  arrived  in  the  evening. 
The  next  day  we  were  disappointed  in  the  boat  which 
was  to  take  us  to  Detroit.  Mr.  Goodenough,  the 
landlord,  kindly  furnished  us  with  a  good  two-horse 
buggy,  and  sent  his  son  to  drive.  After  a  ride  of 
forty  miles,  through  heat  and  dust,  we  arrived  safely 
m  Detroit.     After  the  first  night,  during  which  we 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  23 

lodged  at  a  tavern,  "sve  were  kindly  cared  for  under 
the  roof  of  Mr.  John  Owen,  long  and  widely  known 
as  a  leading  citizen  of  Detroit,  and  an  influential 
member  of  the  Methodist  Ej^iscopal  Church. 

Sunday  morning  we  heard  Rev.  J.  S.  Harrison 
preach  his  introductory  sermon,  from  Galatians  vi,  14. 
In  the  afternoon  Rev.  Geo.  W.  Brown,  a  missionary 
bound  for  Kewawenon,  Lake  Superior,  preached.  At 
night  it  was  my  privilege  to  speak  to  a  very  large 
and  attentive  audience,  on  the  amazing  love  of  God 
to  a  lost  world,  from  John  iii,  16.  To  me  it  was  a 
profitable  season,  and  I  trust  it  was  not  a  lost  oppor- 
tunity to  others.  It  seemed  to  me  a  matter  of  doubt 
whether  I  should  ever  again  stand  before  such  an 
intelligent  congregation  of  white  people.  But  this 
was  resigned  to  Him  whose  I  was  and  whom  I  served. 
The  day  throughout  was  hallowed  by  the  presence 
and  blessing  of  God. 

Tuesday,  29th,  afte^  pleasant  stay  of  three  days 
in  the  city,  we  were  glad  to  take  the  steamer  Con- 
stitution, bound  for  Mackmaw.  We  lay  at  the  dock 
till  two  o'clock  the  next  morning.  Accommodations 
on  board  were  very  poor.  Wife,  daughter,  and  sister 
found  lodscinsrs  in  the  ladies'  cabin.  I  received  a 
miserable  berth  in  another  part  of  the  boat,  and,  being 
slightly  unwell,  much  fatigued,  and  lodged  in  a  sultry 
berth,  I  rested  but  little  and  slept  less.  In  the  morn- 
incr  we  were  in  the  beautiful  little  Lake  St.  Clair. 
Our  way  thence  into  the  St.  Clair  river  and  up  its 
rapid  and  pure  current  into  Lake  Huron,  is  too  near 


24  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

Lome,  and  has  been  too  often  described,  to  need  mi- 
nute attention  here.  It  is  enough  to  say  that  we  were 
charmed  all  the  way  with  the  picturesque  scenery, 
both  on  the  British  and  "the  American  shore.  Spa- 
cious farms,  neat  dwellings,  smiling  villas,  and  charm- 
ing landscapes  stretch  along  the  banks  of  that  majestic 
river.  Kear  Port  Sarnia  we  felt  an  interest  in  ob- 
serving a  number  of  Indians  sporting  on  the  shore. 
On  the  rising  ground,  for  a  long  distance,  appeared 
their  neat  and  comfortable-looking  cabins,  connected 
with  well-cultivated  fields,  affording  proof  of  a  near 
approach  to  civilization.  They  are  under  the  care 
of  British  Wesleyan  missionaries,  who  have  done  a 
great  work  for  the  Canada  Indians.  The  mission 
buildings  are  on  a  slightly-elevated  spot,  and  look 
tasteful  and  inviting.  "VYe  had  soon  passed  Port 
Huron  and  Fort  Gratiot,  and  were,  anon,  laying  our 
course  across  the  majestic  Lake  Huron.  It  was  de- 
lightful weather,  with  scarcely  a  ruffle  on  the  water. 

We  were  happy  to  have,  as  Slociates,  Rev.  Greorge 
^Y.  Brown  and  his  estimable  wife,  who  had  but  re- 
cently given  him  her  hand  and  heart,  as  the  com- 
panion of  his  joys  and  sorrows  in  his  self-denying 
itinerancy.  Brother  B.  and  myself  had  spent  several 
years  together,  in  the  same  village,  when  boys.  We 
had,  for  a  time,  attended  a  literary  institution  to- 
gether. When  but  a  youthful  exhorter  I  had  been 
permitted  to  point  him  to  the  Lamb  of  God,  and 
invite  him  to  the  altar,  where  our  prayers  and  tears 
were  mingled  and  our  hearts  made  to  rejoice  at  his 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  25 

happy  deliverance.  Once  more  we  found  ourselves 
united  in  the  noblest  •\\-ork  to  which  man  was  ever 
called — a  mission  of  love  and  salvation  to  perishing 
heathen.  During  this  delightful  trip  the  Lake  was 
often  made  to  echo  the  hymns  and  spiritual  songs 
of  the  little  band.  AThat  mystery  is  there  in  the 
ways  of  Providence ! 

That  night  we  crossed  Saginaw  Bay.  It  was  suc- 
ceeded by  another  beautiful  day.  The  sun  seemed 
to  burst  upon  the  world,  from  the  bosom  of  the  deep, 
like  a  globe  of  fire,  sending  out  his  golden  beams, 
as  if  to  enliven  the  scenes  around  us,  already  wearing 
an  aspect  of  loveliness.  We  had  soon  neared  the 
land,  and  swept  gracefully  by  points,  islands,  and 
landscapes  on  the  American  shore,  which  I  shall  not 
detain  the  reader  to  describe.  A  little  before  noon 
we  came  in  full  view  of  the  lofty  island  of  Mackinaw, 
about  three  hundred  feet  high  above  the  level  of  the 
Lake.  From  its  summit  frowned  upon  us  -the  im- 
posing battery  of  the  Fort.  Situated  at  its  base  is 
the  village,  comprising  several  hundred  inhabitants, 
mostly  French,  Indian,  and  half-breeds.  As  we  drew 
near  we  could  see  the  shore  dotted  with  Indian  lodges, 
in  the  shape  of  pyramids,  looking,  in  the  distance, 
like  so  many  ant  heaps.  The  Indians,  three  or  four 
thousand  in  number,  and  about  twenty-five  cliiefs,  were 
here  to  receive  their  annuity — some  of  them  from  a 
distance  of  two  or  three  hundi-ed  miles.  They  were 
to  receive  827,000  that  year.  Before  landing  the 
captain  kindly  coasted  along  the  eastern  shore  of  the 

o 


26  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

island,  and  poi.nted  out  some  of  its  prominent  oLjects, 
among  whicli  was  tlie  great  natural  curiosity,  called 
Arch  Rock.  Turning  about  ttg  glided  leisurely  into 
the  straits,  "^here  we  landed  on  the  spot  famed  in 
the  history  of  our  country  for  daring  exploits,  scenes 
of  slaughter  and  blood. 

Michilimackinac  signifies,  according  to  some,  "Big 
Turtle,"  owing  to  the  peculiar  shape  of  the  island. 
Mr.  Schoolcraft  says,  "that  the  present  Indian  signifi- 
cation of  the  name  of  this  island  is,  'place  of  the  danc- 
ing spirits,'  and  that  the  popular  etymology,  which 
derives  this  word  from  '  Big  Tui'tle,'  dates  still  farther 
back,  and  is  founded  on  the  fact  that  the  michi  were 
turtle  spirits."    (Sheldon's  Early  Hist,  of  Mich.,  p.  41.) 

We  dined  at  a  tavern,  and  as  we  were  to  be  de- 
tained for  several  days  before  we  could  go  to  the 
Saut,  after  some  pains,  we  found  quarters  under  the 
roof  of  a  Mr.  Balotes,  a  member  of  the  Baptist 
Church.  The  place  was  so  thronged  with  strangers 
that  comfortable  lodging,  at  a  public  house,  was  out 
of  the  question.  We  could  not  have  desired  kinder 
attention  than  we  found  with  this  pleasant  family. 

The  afternoon  was  spent  in  strolling  among  the 
Indian  wigwams,  and  seeing  them  receive  their  pay 
and  spend  it  among  the  traders,  who  thronged  the 
place,  and  were  ready  to  grab  the  Indian's  money 
as  soon  as  it  came  into  his  hands,  by  fair  or  foul 
means.  It  was  a  little  surprising  to  us  to  find  cher- 
ries and  currants,  in  their  prime,  the  last  of  August. 

Among  our  excursions  brother  B.  and  myself  vis- 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  27 

ited  the  mission  establishment,  once  under  the  care 
of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  but  now  abandoned.  It 
is  a  spacious  building,  and  Tvas  once  thronged  with 
native  and  half-breed  children  and  youth,  there  edu- 
cated at  vast  expense.  Little  of  the  fruit  of  this 
self-sacrificing  labor  is  thought  now  to  be  apparent. 
But  it  may  be  seen,  in  the  revelations  of  eternity, 
that  here  vras  a  necessary  and  very  important  link 
in  the  chain  of  events,  connected  with  the  Christian- 
ization  of  benighted  pagans. 

September  1.  This  morning  I  took  a  walk  along  the 
shore  of  the  straits  about  a  mile,  where  I  saw  scenes 
of  woe  and  wretchedness.  Some  of  the  worse  than 
heathen  wJiites,  FrencJi,  and  Judf-hreeds,  had  been 
furnishing  the  Indians  with  whisky,  and  cheating 
them  out  of  their  money.  The  direst  effects  of 
drunkenness  vrere  witnessed  among  them.  Some 
were  raving  and  fighting,  some  singing,  some  danc- 
ing, or  running  and  whooping,  while  in  some  of  the 
lodges  were  men,  women,  and  children,  rolling  and 
tossing,  and  making  hideous  noises  or  doleful  mean- 
ings. What  a  very  pandemonium  was  here  seen — all 
the  work  of  whisky !  My  soul  sickened  at  this  sight 
of  woe.  I  was  grieved  to  see  such  a  mass,  susceptible 
of  high  intelligence,  debased  below  the  level  of  the 
brute.  Fearful,  thought  I,  will  be  the  final  reckoning 
of  the  instigators  of  all  this  crime  and  misery,  when 
the  Judge  of  all  the  earth  shall  make  inquisition  for 
blood.  The  agent,  Mr.  Stuart  of  Detroit,  took  a 
noble    stand  in  favor  of  temperance,  and  exerted  a 


28  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

great  influence  among  the  Indians.  But  Lis  utmost 
vigilance  was  insufficient  to  prevent  the  ravages  of 
this  destroyer.  Bad  as  was  the  case  here  described, 
I  was  told  that  there  was  then  much  less  drunkenness 
than  was  common  at  such  times.  Here  is  revealed 
to  us  an  almost  omnipresent  obstacle  to  missionary 
success.  It  is  but  justice  to  say,  that  among  the 
traders  were  several  honorable  exceptions  to  such  as 
have  been  just  mentioned. 

The  missionaries  and  their  families,  accompanied 
by  brother  Patterson  and  wife,  from  Detroit,  took  a 
ride  on  the  straits,  in  a  sail-boat.  We  sailed  up  and 
down  the  channel  and  into  the  verge  of  Lake  Michi- 
gan. We  had  never  before  seen  any  thing  to  equal 
the  transparency  of  those  waters.  The  bottom,  at  a 
depth  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  was  perfectly  visible. 
The  stones  and  pebbles  are  white  lime,  which  makes 
them  perceptible  at  greater  depth  than  otherwise. 
We  passed  over  to  the  opposite  island,  and  then  re- 
turned, singing  as  we  crossed  the  channel, 

"From  Greenland's  icy  mountains,"  etc. 

We  felt  our  spirits  refreshed  and  the  missionary  fire 
re- enkindled. 

Septemher  2.  This  morning  brother  Brown  and 
myself  visited  a  family  of  Christian  Indians,  from 
Said  Ste.  Marie,  A  fire  was  burning  in  the  center  of 
the  lodo;e  and  somethino;  cookins;  in  a  kettle.  The 
ground  around  was  covered  with  green  branches  of 
white  cedar.     On  these  were  spread  some  neat  mats 


MISSIONAKY   LIFE.  29 

of  their  own  make.  Opposite  tlie  door  were  two 
painted  wooden  trunks,  wliicli  served  as  seats  for 
visitors.  Their  blankets  and  bedding  were  carefully 
st<Dwed  away  in  the  sides  of  the  wigwam.  They  ap- 
peared glad  to  see  us. 

We  sung  one  of  their  favorite  hymns — 

"  Jesus  my  all  to  heaven  is  gone/' 

such  as  could  singing  in  the  Ojibwa,  and  then  prayed. 
Here  were  the  visible  fruits  of  our  mission  at  the 
Saut.  Contrast  the  scene  presented  here  with  that 
above.  Let  an  infidel  world  judge  between  the  phi- 
lanthropic efforts  of  the  Church  to  elevate  the  red 
man,  and  the  avaricious  and  misanthropic  endeavors 
of  wicked  men  to  build  up  their  own  fortunes  by 
exterminating  the  tribes  of  the  wilderness. 

We  here  formed  the  acquaintance  of  Rev.  Mr. 
Daugherty,  a  Presbyterian  missionary,  a  pious  and 
worthy  man  from  Grand  Traverse,  who  accompanied 
his  Indians  and  had  his  tent  among  them.  He  was 
here  to  preserve  his  sheep  from  the  destroyer. 

We  here  found  an  influence  which  is  deadly  against 
the  spread  of  a  pure  Christianity — it  is  Catholicism. 
The  settlers  are  mostly  Catholic.  There  was  here  a 
Catholic  mission  and  a  priest  on  the  spot,  with  his  fol- 
lowers. They  wear  the  cross  and  count  their  beads, 
but  are  kept  in  ignorance  of  the  Bible.  This  system 
of  worship  is  fascinating  to  the  Indians,  for  the  very 
reason  that  its  rites  and  ceremonies  are  m,ostly  exter- 
nal, and  require  little  exercise  of  the  mind  and  heart. 


80  LIGHTS  a:n^d  shades  of 

The  ever-clianging  nature  of  the  iDretended  infallible 
Church,  Jesuit-like,  becomes   a   perfect  time-seryer, 
and  has  a  dexterity  to  show  the  side  or  put  on  the 
face  which  suits  best,  and  so   wins  the  favor  of  the 
Indians.     That  afternoon  we  visited  Fort  Mackinaw, 
and  without  enumerating  the  objects  of  interest  which 
we  here   saw,  we  thought  it  difficult  to  imagine  how 
any  thing  could  be  kept  in  a  more  neat  and  orderly 
manner.     Rev.  Mr.  O'Brian,  of  the  Episcopal  Church, 
was  chaplain.     After  conducting  our  wives  back  to 
their  lodgings,  brother  Brown  and  myself  reascended 
the  hights  of  the  island,  and  took  a  fatiguing  though 
romantic   stroll   to    see    some    of    its  wonders.     "VYe 
went  first  to  Old  Fort  Holmes,  which  at  different  times 
had  been  in  possession  of  the  British  and  Americans. 
This   is    situated  on  the  highest  part  of  the  island. 
There    are  still  large    excavations   remaining.     Two 
posts  and  a  beam  of  the  gateway  were  standing,  on 
which  many  have  aspired  to  immortality  by  carving 
their  names.      Except  in  one  or  two  narrow  places, 
we  could  see  water  all  around  the  island,  nine  miles 
in   circumference.      We   next  went   to   see   what  is 
called  Sugar  Loaf,    a   huge  rock,   which,   in   shape, 
resembles  a  sugar  loaf.     Thence  we  followed  a  cir- 
cuitous trail  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  island,  to 
take  a  more  accurate  view  of  Arch  Rock.    Advancing 
toward  the  arch  we  came  first  to  a  fearful  precipice, 
suddenly  breaking  off,  perhaps,  a  hundred  and  fifty 
or  more  feet  to  the  bottom.     Before  us  was  the  mag- 
nificent  arch,    extending    across    this    chasm,    which 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  31 

opened  to  the  east  on  Lake  Huron.  A  path  to  the 
right  led  us  along  the  brink  to  the  arch  itself.  We 
removed  our  boots  from  our  feet — went  on  the  arch  to 
the  center,  the  loftiest  spot.  In  reaching  this  we  must 
cross  one  place  where  the  rock  was  not  much  over  a 
foot  wide — its  summit  is  about  three  feet  in  width. 
The  other  side  of  the  arch  is  in  no  part  much  over  a 
foot  wide.  There  were  growing  on  the  narrow  part 
some  small  twigs  of  cedar.  On  this  lofty  spot  we 
stood  for  some  time,  filled  with  wonder  at  the  august 
exhibition  around  us.  In  the  rear,  and  on  each  hand, 
the  lofty  eminence  was  clothed  with  trees  and  shrub- 
bery— maple,  birch,  poplar,  cedar,  and  balsam,  giving 
to  the  landscape  richness  and  variety.  Before  us 
were  the  majestic  waters  of  Lake  Huron,  dotted  with 
three  little  islands,  in  full  view,  called  St.  Martin's 
Islands.  Is  it  wonderful  that  we  should  have  felt 
like  invoking  the  spirit  of  the  muses,  or  that,  if  pos- 
sessed of  a  whit  of  the  ideal  faculty,  it  should  have 
sought  embodiment  in  poetic  measure  ?  Here  is  given 
the  substance  of  an  impromptu  sketched  on  the  occa- 
sion; but  please  do  not  be  hypercritical,  kind  reader, 
as  you  trace  these  lines  : 

Lo  !  on  a  rock  I  stand, 

Arcli'd  by  the  hand  of  God ; 
Beneath,  the  surges  lash  the  strand, 

Terrific,  at  His  nod  ! 

Above,  the  tempest  low'rs. 

Around,  the  waters  sweep, 
And  distant  islands  tell  the  pow'r 

That  placed  them  in  the  dec]). 


32  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

Hovr  miglity  is  the  hand 

Which,  from  old  chaos  wild, 
Heav'd  up  the  rocks  and  fram'd  the  land, 

And  form'd  both  seas  and  isles  ! 

If  great  the  hand  which  made. 

How  wise  the  mind  which  plann'd 
Creation,  in  her  various  grades, 

From  matter  up  to  man  ! 

This  God  is  our  Great  Rock, 

Our  Hight,  when  torrents  sweep, 
Our  Covert  from  the  tempest's  shock, 

Our  Firm  Foundation  deep. 

We  returned  from  this  excursion  feasted  in  mind,  if 
hungry  and  fatigued  in  body. 

Sabbath,  at  half-past  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  ^ye  had 
the  pleasure  of  hearing  Rev.  Mr.  Daugherty  preach, 
through  his  interpreter,  to  the  Indians,  who  collected 
in  the  old  Presbyterian  church.  His  text  was,  "I 
counsel  thee  to  buy  of  me  gold  tried  in  the  fire,"  etc. 
Both  the  text  and  sermon  were  well  adapted  to  the 
occasion.  It  fell  to  my  lot  to  address  the  white  con- 
gregation in  the  afternoon.  At  night  brother  Brown 
preached  a  very  good,  practical  sermon  to  the  Indians. 
It  was  refreshing  to  us  in  this  land  of  comparative 
heathendom,  for  ministers  and  members  of  diiferent 
persuasions,  but  all  belonging,  as  we  trust,  to  the 
true  Church,  to  blend  our  hearts  and  our  devotions 
together. 

Septemher  4.  We  left  Mackinaw  at  eight  o'clock, 
A.  M.,  in  the  steamer  General  Scott,  thence  to  the 
Detour,  a  distance  of  forty-five  miles.  The  lake  was 
quite  rough.     We  now  entered  the  mouth  of  the  Ste. 


MISSIOXART  LIFE.  33 

Mary's  river,  and  ^'ere  ascending  her  majestic  "svatcrs, 
in  the  midst  of  her  thousand  islands,  sprinkled  around 
us  like  dew-drops  glittering  in  the  sunlight.  "We 
swept  by  the  dilapidated  fortification  on  St.  Joseph's 
Island,  and  several  beautifuriandscape  scenes  among 
the  mountains  to  the  north.  Kow  we  had  reached 
the  Indian  settlement  on  the  Canada  shore,  at  a  place 
called  by  the  Indians  Ke-te-gon  See-heJi ;  that  is, 
Garden  Pdvcr.  Soon  before  us  rose  up,  in  grandeur, 
the  Falls  of  the  St.  Mary's.  On  our  left  was  the 
Methodist  mission.  The  shore  on  each  side  was  lined 
with  dwellings  of  the  French  and  half-breeds  up  to 
the  Falls.  Here  was  seen,  on  the  Canada  side,  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company's  Fort.  On  the  American 
shore^^  directly  opposite,  was  the  village  of  Saut  Ste. 
3Iarie  and  Fort  Brady.  ^^  But  the  most  attractive 
spot,  on  the  river,  was  that  of  the  Indian  Agency, 
occupied  by  James  Ord,  Esq.,  about  half  a  mile  east 
of  the  Fort.  This  was  once  an  elegant  building,  but 
had  become  worse  for  the  wear.  It  stands  a  little 
back  from  the  river,  on  high  ground,  surrounded  by 
a  spacious  inclosure,  shaded  by  several  balsam  and 
spruce,  and  some  large,  venerable-looking  elms,  which 
have  resisted  the  storms  of  many  generations.  As 
we  gradually  ascended  into  this  high  latitude  we  sen- 


*  In  tho  rear  of  this,  on  a  sightly  spot,  was  the  Baptist  mission,  under 
the  superintendence  of  Rev.  A,  Bingham,  who,  for  about  twenty  years, 
had  been  laboring  to  bring  the  Indians  under  Christian  influence.  Sev- 
eral children  boarded  at  the  mission,  and  a  school  was  kept  up  which 
would  have  done  credit  to  any  land. 


34  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OP 

sibly  felt  that  we  were  getting  into  a  colder  region. 
There  appeared  to  be  something  in  the  very  atmos- 
phere so  pure  and  bracing  as  to  give  buoyancy  and 
elasticity  to  the  physical  and  mental  powers.  One 
of  our  recent  missionaries  happily  expressed  his  own 
sensation,  when  in  that  region,  by  saying,  that  he 
"felt  all  the  time  like  making  a  speech."  At  seven 
o'clock  in  the  evening  we  landed  safely  at  Fort  Brady, 
and  were  kindly  entertained,  for  the  night,  in  the 
quarters  of  Rev.  W.  H.  Brockway,  who,  in  addition 
to  his  charge  of  the  missions,  was  chaplain  in  the 
Fort. 


MTRSIONART   LIFE.  35 


CHAPTER    II3 

YEAR   SPEXT  AT  THE   SAUT   STE.  MARIE  MISSION. 

Yv^E  had  been  realizing  sometliing  of  the  romance 
of  missionary  life.  The  trip  to  the  Saut  had  been 
delightful.  From  the  time  that  ^'e  left  Detroit  every 
thing  bore  the  charm  of  novelty.  TYe  were  now 
about  to  assume  the  sober  verities  of  mission  life. 
Our  first  lessons  were  clear  evidence  to  us  that  we 
had  entered  upon  no  sinecure.  Every  itinerant 
knows  something  about  how  matters  in  a  station  will 
often  become  deranged,  even  in  the  interval  of  con- 
ference. And  preachers'  wives  know  what  it  is  to 
follow  others  into  houses  of  all  kinds,  turned  over  to 
them,  often  not  fit  for  occupancy.  We  were  to  take 
possession  of  premises  from  which  the  missionary 
had  been  absent  about  three  months,  and  which  had 
been  consigned  to  the  care  of  Indians,  including  the 
family  of  twelve  children,  boarded,  clothed,  etc.,  by 
the  mission. 

September  5.  John  Kah-beege,  a  native  preacher, 
who  was  to  be  our  interpreter,  came  from  the  mission 
in  a  boat,  to  take  us  to  our  new  home.  We  went 
down  immediately  after  breakfast,  accompanied  by 
Eev.  G.  W.  Brown,  who  introduced  us  to  the  mission 
children,  telling  them  that  their  father  and  mother 


36  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

had  come  to  take  care  of  them.  At  first  they  were 
very  shy  of  us,  and  manifested  a  profound  ignorance 
about  every  thing  relating  to  the  concern.  They 
were  slirewd  enough  to  "watch  the  movement  of  things 
before  they  threw  off  their  reserve. 

Our  next  business  was  to  look  about  us  and  see 
where  we  were  and  what  was  to  be  done.  There  was 
ample  room  in  the  mission  house,  such  as  it  was. 
One  end  was  frame  and  partly  finished,  the  other  was 
built  of  hewed  logs,  much  dilapidated,  and  has  since 
been  displaced  by  a  substantial  frame  building.  This 
dwelling,  though  looking  very  vrell  from  a  distance, 
was,  vrithin,  any  thing  but  inviting,  as  a  home.  It 
had  become  the  tenement  of  vermin,  wdiich  gave  us  no 
little  labor  and  care  to  expurgate.  The  children  had 
worn  their  clothes  to  tatters,  and  had  not  a  decent 
change.  And,  worse  than  this,  several  of  them  were 
infected  with  an  odious  cutaneous  disease.  But  to 
enter  into  the  details  of  these  matters  we  should  be 
compelled  to  write  what  would  grate  harshly  upon 
refined  sensibilities,  and  impose  no  pleasant  task  ^upon 
the  writer.  And  yet  it  should  be  remembered  that 
such  domestic  evils,  disagreeable  as  they  are  to  name, 
or  read,  must  be  met  and  disposed  of  by  the  mission- 
aries, as  existing  realities ;  and  should  they  make  no 
pretenses  to  extraordinary  refinement,  they  may  at 
least  claim  to  have  sensibilities  highly  susceptible  of 
such  impressions. 

We  may  ask  the  neat  Massachusetts  housewife  to 
picture  to  herself,  if  she  can,  what  would  be  her  feel- 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  37 

ino-s  to  be  usliered  into  sucli  a  home,  laden  ^vitli  the 
care  of  such  a  family?  Do  you  wonder  that  gloomy 
thoughts  filled  the  mind  of  Mrs.  P,?  But  no  time  was 
to  be  lost ;  something  was  to  be  done,  and  all  hands 
went  at  it  with  the  utmost  determination  and  witli 
such  skill  as  we  could  command.  In  short,  resolution 
and  23ersistent  effort  overcame  all  such  obstacles,  and 
we  were  soon  permitted  to  see  the  children  well,  com- 
fortably and  decently  clad,  the  building  cleansed  from 
every  thing  offensive,  and  our  forbidding  home  to 
wear  an  agreeable  and  comfortable  aspect.  If,  as 
Mr.  Wesley  says,  "cleanliness  is  next  to  godliness,'"' 
those  acts  of  physical  renovation  were  intimately  con- 
nected with  the  spiritual  interests  of  the  mission. 

SITE    OF  THE   MISSION. 

Than  this  scarcely  any  thing  could  be  more  lovely. 
It  is  two  miles  down  the  river  from  Fort  Brady.  At 
the  station  a  large  branch  of  the  river  breaks  off 
abruptly,  from  the  main  channel,  flowing  southwardly, 
studded  with  numerous  beautiful  islets.  The  current 
here  is  very  rapid;  hence  the  name  of  Little  Rapids. 
The  mission  stands  on  a  gentle  slope,  a  few  rods  back 
from  this  channel,  in  full  view  of  the  beautiful  river 
scenery  to  the  east  and  north,  and  of  the  mountain- 
ous ranges  on  the  Canada  shore.  The  shore  is.very 
abrupt  in  front  of  the  mission,  the  water  being,  a  few 
feet  from  land,  eight  or  ten  feet  deep,  and  perfectly 
clear  and  transparent.  In  the  rear  were  the  barn 
and  out-houses.    Lining  the  shore  were  about  a  dozen 


88  LIGHTS   AIs'D    SHADES   OF 

Indian  houses,  several  wigwams,  and  the  school-house, 
an  old  log  building,  which  served  for  chapel  and 
schools.  The  land  under  cultivation  was  principally 
along  this  channel.  Forty  or  fifty  acres  were  then 
cultivated  by  the  Indians,  under  the  direction  of  the 
superintendent,  aided  by  the  other  missionaries.  A 
fine  crop  of  vegetables  were  in  the  ground  when  we 
landed,  to  take  care  of  which  were  among  our  fii'st 
duties. 

EELIGIOUS  ASPECT. 

Aside  from  its  religious  aspect  a  Christian  mission 
possesses  no  intrinsic  importance.  The  aim  of  tins 
cause  is  a  direct  one;  it  contemplates  the  salvation 
of  deathless  immortals.  When  this  end  is  not  ac- 
complished missionary  efi'orts  prove  a  failure.  The 
Christianization  of  the  heathen  is  fundamental — civ- 
ilization is  the  legitimate  fruit. 

"VYe  found  here  a  small  society  of  fifty-five  Indians. 
When  in  their  meetings,  even  a  stranger  to  their 
language  could  readily  perceive  that  religion  is  the 
same  among  the  untutored  Indians  as  among  the 
whites.  Their  fervent  prayers — their  devout  hymns 
of  praise — their  subdued  and  often  tearful  attention 
to  the  preached  word — their  consistent  religious  ex- 
perience, as  they  relate  in  the  class  or  love-feast,  and 
the  correctness  of  their  general  deportment,  may  be 
favorably  compared  with  that  of  their  more  knowmg 
whit6  brothers. 

September  10th,  we  spent  our  first  Sabbath  among 


MISSIONARY   LIFE  39 

tliem.  Brother  Brovrn  had  not  yet  left  for  Lake 
Superior,  and  preached  to  the  Indians  in  the  morning. 
At  the  same  time  I  preached  to  the  whites  in  Fort 
Brady.  After  noon,  for  the  first  time,  it  fell  to  my 
lot  to  preach,  through  an  interpreter.  I  was  much 
less  embarrassed  than  I  had  anticipated,  but  it  seemed 
like  a  tedious  way  of  preaching.  The  Indians  heard 
the  word  attentively,  and  all,  we  trust,  were  measura- 
bly blessed.  Brother  Brockway  was  with  us,  with 
whom  we  were  permitted  to  join  in  receiving  and 
administering  the  holy  eucharist.  Several  Indians, 
from  abroad,  partook  with  us ;  some  from  Grand 
Island,  130  miles  distant.  It  was  a  solemn  and  im- 
pressive season.  The  prayer  meeting,  at  night,  gave 
evidence  of  the  presence  of  God: 

Our  Sabbath  meetings  consisted  of  the  Sunday 
school,  preaching  twice,  class  and  prayer  meeting; 
sometimes  only  one  sermon  and  prayer  meeting.  Be- 
sides, we  had  one  or  more  meetings  during  the  week. 
Some  of  these  were  seasons  of  special  interest,  as 
some  facts,  noted  at  the  time,  will  show. 

September  24.  Preached  in  the  morning,  with  good 
liberty,  on  the  subject  of  prayer.  At  the  evening 
meeting  the  Indians  sung  with  much  readiness  and 
prayed  with  fervency.  And  although  I  could  under- 
stand but  little  they  said,  I  was  much  blessed  in 
waiting  upon  God  with  them,  and  began  to  feel 
much  at  home  in  those  meetings — felt,  at  the  time, 
an  inward  consciousness  that  I  was  slowly  advancing  in 
the  divine  life,  and  panted  for  all  the  fullness  of  God. 


40  LIGHTS  AXD   SHADES   OF 

October  2.  We  Lad  Rev.  S.  Spates  ^ith  us,  on  his 
Tvay  to  Fond  du  Lac  mission,  Lake  Superior.  He 
had  been  several  years  in  the  Tvork,  and  had  acquired 
an  experience  to  "vrhich  we  were  strangers.  We  en- 
joyed a  gracious  season  together — had  a  good  con- 
frrefration.  There  were  several  Indians  from  Garden 
River,  Canada.  I  conducted  the  morning  services. 
At  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  brother  Spates  preached  from, 
''Ye  are  the  salt  of  the  earth,'^  etc.  His  remarks 
were  brief,  pointed,  and  appropriate,  and  had  a  good 
effect  on  the  hearers.  The  prayer  meeting,  at  night, 
was  a  spiritual  and  profitable  season.  The  Lidians 
prayed  with  great  readiness,  simplicity,  and  fervency. 
The  Lord  was  with  us  of  a  truth.  One  said,  in  his 
prayer,  "  Me  very  'poor  Indian.'^  Becoming  very 
happy,  he  exclaimed,  ''  Ah-pe-che-me-quaicli,  Ke-slia- 
rnon-c-doo'' — very  thank  you,  Good  Spirit!  They 
prayed  fervently  for  theii'  missionaries,  as  well  as 
for  themselves  and  their  children.  The  next  evening 
we  had  a  missionary  prayer  meeting — a  season  of 
considerable  interest.  This  may  suffice  as  a  specimen 
of  our  religious  exercises;  other  incidents  of  the 
kind  will  be  found  as  we  pursue  the  thread  of  our 
narrative,  and  may  be  passed  over  here. 

Our  seasons  of  family  worship  were  among  the 
most  deeply-interesting  and  profitable  interviews. 
The  family,  including  the  Indian  children,  were  called 
together,  morning  and  evening,  and  a  lesson  read  out 
of  the  holy  Scriptures,  and  a  hymn  sung,  generally 
in  Ojibwa,  and  prayer,  by  some  member  of  the  family. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  41 

October  4.  Rev.  S.  Spates  ^yas  still  with  us,  wait- 
ms:  for  a  vessel  to  sail  to  La  Pointe.  We  were  vis- 
ited,  the  same  clay,  by  Rev.  S.  Hall,  a  missionary  of 
the  K..  B.  C.  F.  M.,  from  La  Pointe,  who  was  on  his 
way  to  Boston,  accompanied  by  his  family.  He  had 
spent  twelve  years  there — wrote  and  preached  in  the 
Indian  tongue.  More  will  be  said  about  this  truly 
Christian  gentleman,  and  devoted  missionary,  in  an- 
other place. 

Our  religious  prospects  were,  at  times,  very  flatter- 
ing, during  the  early  part  of  the  year.  But  we  had 
two  serious  drawbacks.  Several  of  the  Indians  went 
to  the  woods  to  hunt,  and  were  some  time  absent. 
John  Kah-beege,  our  interpreter,  started  early  in  the 
winter  to  visit  the  Indians  at  Te-quaJi-me-non,  and 
the  little  band  at  Grand  Island.  Instead  of  returning 
immediately  from  Grand  Island,  as  was  expected,  he 
went  on  to  Kewawenon,  and  did  not  get  back  till  the 
opening  of  spring.  We  were,  therefore,  left  to  do 
the  best  we  could  for  interpreters,  and  had  often  to 
speak  through  persons  poorly  qualified  for  such  a 
work ;  and  our  hands  were  tied,  and  our  best  efforts 
trammeled. 

The  members  connected  with  the  station  were  con- 
siderably scattered  along  the  shore  of  Lake  Superior, 
as  far  as  Grand  Island.  Some  lived  twelve  miles 
below  the  mission,  on  the  American  shore,  and  some 
at  Garden  Kiver,  Canada.  As  I  had  the  care  of  the 
school,  it  was  intended  that  brother  Kah-beege  would 
do  most  of  the  traveling  and  preaching  at  these  out- 


42  L I G II T  S  A  N  D   S  n  A  D  E  S  0  F 

posts.  During  his  long  absence,  in  addition  to  tlie 
duties  of  the  school,  I  made  several  visits  to  their 
encampments,  for  particulars  of  vrhich  see  below  : 

OUR    SCHOOLS. 

The  day  school  vras  made  up  of  about  thirty-five 
scholars.  The  average  attendance,  through  the  win- 
ter, was  about  eighteen.  During  sugar-making  we 
had  few,  except  the  mission  children,  and  the  school 
was,  for  a  time,  discontinued,  except  as  it  related  to 
the  mission  children.  They  were  instructed  at  home. 
During  the  summer  there  was  again  better  attendance, 
and  the  school  was  more  prosperous.  Several  of  the 
children  spoke  English  quite  well,  and  could  read 
readily.  The  studies  pursued  were,  of  course,  mostly 
elementary,  and  in  English — spelling,  reading,  writ- 
ing, arithmetic,  geography,  and  grammar.  The  schol- 
ars gave  evidence  that,  with  proper  help,  they  could 
readily  acquire  knowledge. 

The  Sunday  school  was  made  up  of  the  scholars 
of  the  day  school,  and  exerted  a  healthful  moral  and 
religious  influence  over  the  Indians.  But  the"  super- 
intending and  teaching  devolved  on  the  missionaries, 
and  made  their  duties  confining,  if  not  arduous. 

DOMESTIC    CAEES. 

The  care  of  the  mission  family  imposed  no  small 
burden,  especially  on  Mrs.  P.  Our  family  numbered 
sixteen.  Besides,  persons  employed  to  work  for  the 
mission  were  fed  under  our  roof.     More  than  this, 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  43 

we  were  often  visited  by  hungry  Indians,  wlio  must 
be  fed.  One  evening  more  than  twenty  crowded  in 
upon  us  just  after  we  had  finished  our  supper.  An 
additional  meal  was  provided  for  them,  and  part 
lodged  at  the  mission,  and  the  rest  distributed  among 
our  neighbors.  This  is  one  out  of  numerous  instances 
of  the  kind.  In  those  onerous  duties  Mrs.  P.  had 
little  reliable  help.  Her  sister  did  what  she  could. 
Two  of  the  native  girls  were  women  grown.  One 
was  good  help  when  so  disposed;  but  the  other  had 
been  recently  taken  from  the  wigwam.  Some  of  the 
smaller  children  could  render  some  assistance,  but 
to  see  that  they  did  it  was,  to  Mrs.  P.,  about  equiva- 
lent to 'doing  it  herself.  It  was  requisite  also  that 
the  boys  should  be  trained  to  habits  of  industry. 
They  must  work  part  of  each  day  on  the  farm,  and 
the  missionary  must  generally  be  with  them,  or  little 
would  be  done.  So  that,  in  doors  and  out,  he  was 
constantly  taxed  with  the  oversight  of  the  children. 
Of  this-  we  were  not  disposed  to  complain.  We  had 
gone  there  to  do  what  we  could  to  better  the  con- 
dition of  the  Indians,  and  had  anticipated  all  the 
work  that  we  could  perform.-  Our  chief  source  of 
regret  was  that  we  could  see  so  little  fruit  of  our 
efforts. 

ROMAN  CATHOLIC  INDIANS. 

The  following  note  was  penned  October  22d:  "Yes- 
terday we  were  visited  by  some  Catholic  Indians 
from  Lake  Michigan.     They  were  intoxicated.     Poor 


44  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

souls!  How  sunken  in  degradation  and  misery  with 
all  their  religion!  And  how  much  more  deserving 
of  censure  they  who  served  as  agents  in  their  intox- 
ication!" 

WEDDING. 

About  this  time  Betsy  Ge-zJie-go-qua,  one  of  our 
mission  gfrls,  was  married  to  John  Tanner.  By  this 
means  our  number  was  diminished,  but  our  best 
native  help  was  taken  away. 

CHEISTMAS   AND    NEW-YEAR. 

Christmas  we  met  at  half-past  ten  o'clock,  A.  M., 
for  religious  worship.  There  was  a  good  turn-out 
on  the  occasion.  Brother  Brockway  preached  from, 
"  He  that  believeth  not  is  condemned  already."  His 
sermon  was  characteristic.  He  generally  scores  deep, 
and  handles  matters  without  much  ceremony,  espe- 
cially when  he  comes  in  contact  with  the  vices  and 
abominations  of  the  heathen. 

On  the  approach  of  New-Year  we  had  great  prep- 
arations to  make  for  the  large  number  of  Indians 
expected  from  abroad.  A  barrel  of  flour  was  baked 
into  bread  for  the  occasion,  and  a  barrel  of  bean 
soup  made,  and  sundry  minor  things  placed  in  readi- 
ness. The  Indians  began  to  gather  in  before  we 
were  prepared  for  them.  Several  were  pagan  Indians 
recently  from  Lake  Michigan,  ignorant  of  God,  but 
professed  to  be  seeking  religion.  They  were  deplor- 
ably degraded. 


-    MISSIONARY   LIFE.  45 

On  Friday  niglit  -^e  had  a  refreshing  meeting. 
Saturday  the  number  of  Indians  from  abroad  ■\^-a3 
considerably  augmented ;  on  TN-hich  day  we  had  preach- 
ing both  afternoon  and  night.  Sunday  morning  ^'Q 
had  a  very  spiritual  love-feast.  At  the  public  meeting 
the  house  was  filled  to  its  utmost  capacity.  The 
sacraments  were  administered  after  preaching.  I 
had  here  the  privilege  of  baptizing  Wyatt,  a  "sprightly 
infant  son  of  Kev.  W.  H.  Brockway,  who  shortly 
after  was  taken  to  the  better  land. 

Sabbath  evening,  at  eight  o'clock,  being  New- 
Year's  eve,  we  assembled  to  hold  a  watch-night.  It 
was  introduced  by  a  prayer  meeting,  in  which  the 
Indians  participated  with  their  usual  fervency  and 
devotion.  I  followed  with  a  sermon  from  Psalm 
Ixxiii,  24.  We  then  closed  the  old  year  with  a 
prayer  meeting,  in  which  God  was  evidently  in  the 
midst  to  bless.  Brother  Brockway  and  family  partici- 
pated with  us  in  the  watch  meeting  and  the  scenes 
that  surrounded  us  at  the  dawn  of  the  new  year. 
One  person  professed  religion  and  united  with  the 
Church. 

N'ew- Year's  day  burst  upon  us  as  one  of  the  most 
delightful  we  had  ever  beheld.  The  weather  was  mild 
for  the  climate  and  season.  The  thermometer  stood 
at  22°  above  zero  in  the  morning,  and  32°  above  at 
three  o'clock,  P.  M.  As  the  day  dawned,  the  atmos- 
phere was  clear  and  transparent.  A  rich  golden 
belt  stretched  along  the  eastern  horizon,  tinged  with 
red,  purple,   and  other   hues.     The    still   night   had 


46  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

clad  the  slinibs  and  evergreens  on  the  island  oppo- 
site the  mission  "^'ith  a  rich,  frosty  drapery.  The 
sun  looked  out  from  his  nightly  covering,  and  seemed 
to  smile  on  the  scene  of  loveliness.  The  beautiful 
river  Ste.  Marie's  perfected  the  gorgeous  picture, 
dashed  upon  nature's  canvas  by  Him  Tvho  painted 
the  lily  and  colored  the  rainbow.  As  soon  as  it 
began  to  be  light  the  Indians  commenced  to  make 
their  visits.  Their  custom  at  such  times  is  to  go, 
from  the  eldest  to  the  youngest,  and  give  every  body 
a  friendly  shake  of  the  hand,  and  say,  ''Bush-oo'' — 
■wish  all  a  happy  New-Year!  Some  will  give  you 
a  kiss,  if  you  will  suffer  it;  and  they  will  take  all 
the  cakes  and  provisions  you  see  fit  to  give  them, 
eating  what  they  can,  and  carrying  the  rest  away 
in  their  musli-lce-mot,  or  sack,  which  they  carry  for 
this  purpose. 

At  ten  o'clock  we  again  had  public  worship  with 
the  Indians,  when  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  preach.  After 
meeting  we  distributed  some  corn,  pork,  and  other 
eatables  among  our  visitors,  including  the  barrel  of 
bean  soup,  which  was  not  the  least  among  the  luxu- 
ries of  the  day. 

Thus  ended  our  first  New-Year's  day  among  the 
Indians.  We  could  but  record  with  gratitude  that 
we  had,  up  to  that  time,  from  our  arrival,  been  blessed 
with  almost  uninterrupted  health.  Our  fare  had  been 
coarse  and  our  labor  arduous,  but,  with  health  and  a 
peaceful  conscience,  we  felt  that  it  was  to  us  really  a 
happy  New-Year. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  47 


TRAVELS. 


It  has  before  been  intimated  that  we  were  occa- 
sionally called  to  visit  the  Indians  at  their  encamp- 
ments. This  was  done  in  a  boat,  or  canoe,  when  the 
river  was  not  frozen.  During  the  winter  we  traveled 
on  snow-shoes.  I  made  five  visits  during  the  fall 
and  winter  to  3Ia7i-sJikoo-ta-sa-ga,  twelve  miles  from 
the  mission,  down  the  river,  on  the  same  shore.  The 
place  derives  its  name  from  the  quantity  of  hay 
that  grows  in  the  vicinity.  The  channel  there  widens 
into  a  small  lake,  which  in  English  is  called  Hay 
Lake.  I  went  four  or  five  times  to  preach  to  the 
Indians  living  at  Garden  River,  eight  miles  off,  on 
the  Canada  side;  and  once  visited  a  place  called 
Shyno-na-ya-sing,  sixteen  miles  distant  on  the  same 
shore,  where  some  of  our  mission  Indians  were  mak- 
ing sugar.  These  journeys  were  none  of  them  per- 
formed without  severe  physical  labor  and  exposure. 
Particularly  the  jaunts  made  on  snow-shoes  were 
sometimes  accomplished  with  blistered  feet  and  weary 
limbs.  In  one  instance  several  of  my  toes  became  so 
badly  bruised  that  the  blood  settled  under  the  nails, 
which  in  a  few  days  came  ofi"  and  gave  place  to 
others.  We  were,  however,  amply  rewarded  for  these 
slight  inconveniences  to  find  our  visits  highly  prized 
by  the  Indians.  The  influence  of  God's  Spirit  was 
often  manifested  in  the  quickening  of  believers,  and 
in  some  instances  we  found  those  who  were  inquir- 
ing what  they  must  do  to  be  saved.     It  would  be 


48  LIGHTS   AXD   SHADES   OF 

imnecessarilj  tedious  to  enter  into  the  minutiae  of 
these  trips — a  description  of  one  of  them,  made  in 
mid-winter,  must  suffice. 

February  3d,  in  company  with  a  young  man  for 
interpreter,  I  left  the  mission  for  3Iah-sli]coo-ta-sa-ga. 
For  an  outfit  we  had  snow-shoes,  a  dog-train,  and 
two  dogs,  to  draw  our  bed  and  provisions.  The  train 
was  constructed  of  two  narrow  boards,  about  nine 
feet  in  length,  made  thin  and  light,  and  fastened 
with  screws  to  small  cleats,  which  were  on  the  upper 
side.  The  fore  end  was  bent  over  like  a  skate.  A 
hole  was  made  through  the  cleats  at  each  end,  and  a 
rope  draw^n  through  from  one  end  of  the  train  to  the 
other.  Then  the  provision  basket,  made  narrow 
and  long  for  the  purpose,  and  one  buffalo  robe  and 
blanket,  were  lashed  fast  to  the  bottom  ropes  w4th  a 
strong  cord.  One  of  our  dogs  was  nine  or  ten  years 
old,  and  had  performed  important  services  of  this 
kind  for  years.  His  name  was  Nimrod.  He  was  a 
noble  specimen  of  the  canine  race,  and  a  universal 
favorite.  He,  however,  came  to  a  bad  end.  Like 
poor  Tray  of  old,  the  next  summer  he  fell  into  the 
bad  company  of  some  Indian  dogs,  and  commenced 
killing  the  mission  calves.  Our  superintendent  found 
it  necessary  to  make  an  example  of  the  Indian  dogs ; 
and,  though  no  doubt  one  of  his  most  painful  acts, 
as  a  matter  of  impartiality,  he  was  compelled  to 
shoot  Nimrod  with  the  rest.  But  the  mission  family 
w^ere  filled  with  sorrow,  as  at  the  loss  of  a  friend. 
But  to  return  from  this  digression..    Thus  equipped 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  49 

we  took  up  our  line  of  marcli  on  the  ice,  wliicli  in 
some  places  was  bare,  but  was  mostly  covered  with 
snow.  Here  and  there  water  was  standing  on  the 
ice,  thinly  crusted  with  snow,  through  which  we 
would  sometimes  break  with  our  snow-shoes.  This 
made  them  clog,  and  rendered  the  walking  heavy. 
"We  overtook  an  Indian  train  drawn  by  a  pony,  on  a 
fishing  tour.  By  the  kind  invitation  of  the  owner, 
I  rode  a  short  distance.  About  two  o'clock,  P.  M., 
we  arrived  at  the  encampment,  which  was  about  half 
a  mile  from  shore,  in  the  dense  woods.  As  we  ap- 
proached the  scene  presented  was  novel  and  inter- 
esting to  one  who  had  never  seen  the  Indians  in 
their  winter  retreat.  The  smoke  from  the  wigwams 
was  seen  curling  up  among  the  hemlocks.  The 
lodges  looked  like  huge  brush  heaps  covered  with 
snow,  with  long  smoky  poles  pointing  up  in  the 
center.  The  lodges  were  first  constructed  as  usual, 
generally  conical  in  shape ;  then  thickly  covered  with 
boughs,-  and  these  deeply  imbedded  in  snow,  which 
served  to  break  the  severity  of  the  cold.  A  large 
shed  was  sometimes  made  over  the  door,  covered  on 
all  sides  in  the  same  way,  which  served  for  a  wood- 
shed and  store-room. 

The  numerous,  lofty,  and  wide-spreading  ever- 
greens were  clad  in  the  verdure  of  spring,  in  the 
dead  of  winter.  Where  is  the  spot  on  earth,  how- 
ever wild  and  desolate,  in  which  the  beneficent  Author 
of  our  being  has  not  placed  something  worthy  of 
admiration  ? 


50  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

We  stopped  with  I-a7i-he-dah-sing,  a  subordinate 
chief.  His  was  the  interesting  family  we  visited  at 
Mackinaw.  We  gave  j^i'o vision  to  the  chief's  wife, 
who  did  our  cooking  to  admiration.  They  had  just 
■jaught  several  rabbits,  and  the  boys,  that  day,  caught 

fine  lot  of  fish,  which,  with  the  stock  of  eat?J3les 
we  had  with  us,  made  us  fine  living.  The  chief  was 
employed  in  making  a  gill-net,  wdiich  labor  he  per- 
formed with  great  ease  and  dexterity.  He  was  in- 
dustrious, and  seemed  to  thrive. 

At  night  we  had  preaching,  and  several  prayers, 
in  this  lodge,  and  were  blessed  in  waiting  upon  God 
in  the  wilderness.  We  awoke  on  Sabbath  morning 
somewhat  rested  from  the  weariness  of  the  previous 
day.  At  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  we  met  again  for  w^or- 
ship.  I  preached  from  Isaiah  iii,  10,  11.  It  was 
quite  windy,  and  forced  the  smoke  back  into  the 
lodge  so  that  it  was  almost  suffocating.  I  spoke  with 
great  difiiculty,  and  did  not  know  but  I  would  be 
forced  to  follow  the  example  of  some  other  mission- 
aries and  preach  in  a  sitting  posture  ;  but  felt  aa 
if  I  could  not  be  reconciled  to  this  apparently  indo- 
lent way  of  preaching. 

A   SCENE   IN  DOMESTIC  LIFE. 

As  night  approached  I  could  not  but  look  thought- 
fully on  what  was  passing  around  me  contrasted  with 
civilized  life.  I  was  seated  upon  a  mat,  Indian  fash- 
ion, at  supper.  Before  the  fire  were  some  fish  spread 
out  on  a  stick,  stuck  in  the  ground,  roasting.    Any  one 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  51 

approaclietl  and  took  a  piece  at  pleasure.     On  each 
side  of  us  the  Indians  -^^'ere  eating  corn  soup  -with 
-wooden  spoons.     In  the  company  were  two  dogs  and 
a  cat,  which  made  themselves  perfectly  at  home,  and 
seemed  to  be  objects  of  amusement  to  the  inmates 
approaching  veneration.     Overhead  were  suspended, 
on  poles,  some  of  the  fish  caught  the  preceding  day. 
On  the  end  of  one  of  these  poles  sat  a  chicken,  very 
gracefully   surveying    the    interesting    scene    below. 
Here,  thought  I,  is  life,  in  patriarchal  simplicity,  sure 
enough— every  one  seeming  to  do  what  is  right,  in 
his  own  eyes,  with  no  one  to  say.  What  doest  thou? 
At  night  we   met  again  for  religious  worship.     I 
spoke   from    Ezekiel  xxxiii,  11,  and   a  few  prayers 
closed  the  public  exercises  of  the   Sabbati.     After- 
ward I  had  some  conversation  with  the  chief  about 
the  religious  belief  of  the  heathen  Indians.     "What  I 
gathered,  from  a  poor  interpreter,  was,  in  substance, 
as  follows:  Threy  believed  there  were   four   gods  in 
heaven..    One  was  the  Great  God.     When  they  wor- 
shiped him  they  used  to  prepare  their  wigwam  very 
nicely.     They  worshiped  him  with  music  and  dancing. 
They  looked  upon  him  as  the  god  of  medicine,  who 
gave  health  to  the  people.     Besides  these,  they  be- 
lieved that  there  is  one  under  the   earth,  vrhich  is 
3Iah-je-mon-e-cloo,  the  devil,  or  evil  spirit.     They  fre- 
quently fasted,   and   some,    who   were  very  wicked, 
sometimes  fasted  eight  or  ten  days.     They  were  also 
the  worshipers  of  idols. 

Monday,  the  5th,  we  left  the  encampment  about 


52  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

nine  o'clock,  A.  M.  The  ^eatlier  "svas  moderate.  It 
was  heavy  and  tedious  walking.  The  wind,  on  Sab- 
bath, had  also  entirely  obliterated  the  track.  But 
by  half-past  twelve  o'clock  we  reached  home,  in- 
clined to  the  belief  that  walking  on  snow-shoes  would 
be  the  best  possible  athletic  exercise  for  modern 
dyspeptics. 

riSnES   AND   FISHIXG. 

From  the  time  that  we  had  reached  Mackinaw  we 
had  often  shared  in  the  luxury  afforded  by  the  de- 
licious fishes  abounding  in  those  waters.  In  the 
spring  and  fall  the  far-famed  ivldte  fish  are  caught 
plentifully  in  scoop-nets,  just  at  the  foot  of  the 
Rapids.  Trout  are  also  abundant,  including  the 
specMed,  or  hrooJc-troid,  a  rare  pan  fish.  Pickerel 
are  caught  in  the  spring  and  fall,  and  barreled  in 
large  quantities,  at  Muddy  Lake,  several  miles  down 
the  river  from  the  Saut.  Another  excellent  fish  is 
the  lierring.  These  run  in  schools  at  certain  seasons, 
winter  and  summer,  and  are  caught  either  in  gill-nets 
or  with  the  spear.  The  latter  method  furnishes  great 
amusement  to  the. natives  in  the  winter  season.  Some 
of  the  mission  boys  exhibited  much  dexterity  in  this 
line,  and,  in  the  season,  kept  us  in  fish. 

CLOSE   OF   WINTER. 

Our  winter  proved  to  be  a  mild  one  for  that  climate. 
Only  occasionally  was  the  thermometer  below  zero. 
One  or  two  of  the  coldest  days  it  fell  as  low  as  24"= 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  53 

below.  Toward  the  close  we  had  snow  from  three 
to  four  feet  deep  on  a  level.  Spring  began  to  open 
gradually,  the  last  of  March  and  through  the  month 
of  April,  by  the  close  of  which  the  river  was  open, 
and  the  way  clear  for  boats  from  below.  It  is  not 
uncommon  for  the  river  to  be  closed  up  with  ice  till 
the  tenth,  and  sometimes  as  late  as  the  middle  of 
May.  It  was  cheering,  after  being  closed  in  by  so 
long  a  winter,  and  shut  out,  to  a  great  extent,  from 
the  busy  world,  to  see  the  dreariness  of  winter  gone, 
and  all  things  wearing  the  cheerful  aspect  of  a  lovely 
spring.  It  was  not  long  before  the  noble  steamer 
was  seen  stemming  the  rapid  current,'  as  the  sailors 
say,  "with  a  bone  in  her  teeth."  To  the  inhabitants 
of  that  region  the  arrival  of  the  first  boat  in  spring 
is  a  season  of  intense  interest.  Crowds  collect  at 
the  landing  to  witness  the  new  arrival,  and  obtain 
the  latest  news. 

SUMMER. 

This  was  to  us  a  busy  season,  and  passed  rapidly 
away.  Our  duties  were  too  monotonous  to  require 
minute  description.  The  day  school  and  Sunday 
school  have  been  before  described.  There  was  little 
variation  during  the  summer  months.  There  was 
much  hard  work  done  on  the  farm  by  brother  Brock- 
way  and  Indians  hired  by  him  for  this  purpose,  in 
clearing,  fencing,  plowing,  planting,  and  cultivating 
the  crops.  Here  we  found  abundant  exercise  for 
all  the  time  that  could  be  spared  from  other  duties, 


54  .  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

and  sucli  work  was  a  part  of  tlic  daily  training  of 
the  boYS  belono;in<2;  to  the  mission. 

We  were  favored,  during  the  summer  months,  with 
the  visits  of  many  persons  from  abroad,  who  seemed 
to  feci  a  lively  interest  in  whatever  appertained  to 
the  Indians.  I  believe  our  mission  stations  generally 
are — they  ought  to  be — what  Paul  calls  "given  to 
hospitality."  It  often  fell  to  our  lot  to  entertain  our 
brethren,  sometimes  for  days  and  weeks  together, 
who  were  bound  to  more  remote  parts.  The  fol- 
lowing note  was  penned  July  6th:  "For  a  few  weeks 
we  have  had  a  good  deal  of  company,  which,  by  the 
way,  is  no  new  thing.  For  several  successive  Sab- 
baths we  have  had  more  or  less  Indians  from  abroad. 
Besides  these  brother  Johnson  and  family,  the  Gov- 
ernment carpenter  for  L'Anse,  stopped  with  us  more 
than  a  week.  In  addition  to  these  we  had  a  number 
of  visitors.  Several  Indians  are  now  down  from 
Grand  Island,  and  some  from  Te-quali-r,ie-non,  who 
are  now  at  the  Fort,  and  will  probably  be  with  us 
to-morrow.  There  are  also  here  three  lodges  from 
3Iali-8Jikoo-ta-saJi-ga.  These  visits,  though,  for  the 
most  part,  very  agreeable,  add  not  a  little  to  Mrs. 
P.'s  domestic  cares." 

We  felt  at  times  greatly  tempted  that  the  visible 
effects  of  our  efforts  were  not  more  striking  and 
apparent.  Then  we  were  comforted  to  toil  on,  and 
leave  the  event  with  Him  who  sees  the  end  from  the 
beginning,  and  has  promised  that  our  "labor  shall 
not  be  in  vain  in  the   Lord."     An  extract  or  two 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  55 

from  my  journal,  about  this  time,  ^'ill  illustrate  A\-hat 
is  here  alluded  to,  and  show  something  of  the  state 
of  religion  at  the  mission : 

"Sunday,  May  26th,  preached  a  plain,  practical 
discourse  from,  'If  I  regard  iniquity  in  my  heart, 
the  Lord  will  not  hear  me.'  I  felt  happy  in  endeav- 
oring to  discharge  my  duty.  At  half-past  one  we 
held  a  class  meeting,  and  are  soon  to  meet  for  our 
evening  prayer  meeting.  Have  had  some  peculiar 
trials  of  mind  the  past  week;  but  out  of  them  all  the 
Lord  hath  delivered  me,  and  to  his  great  name  be  all 
the  praise.  Have  this  day  felt  a  divine  consolation  and 
peace  in  my  heart.  How  much  consolation  there  is  in 
that  one  word  Immanuel,  God  with  us  !  Often  when 
my  soul  has  seemed  to  be  tossed  on  life's  stormy 
deep,  as  a  ship  on  the  ocean,  a  consciousness  of  God 
with  ME,  the  unworthiest  of  all,  has  hushed  every 
rising  apprehension,  and  spread  calm  over  my  soul. 
John  Wesley's  living  and  dying  motto  was,  *The 
best  of  all  is,  God  is  with  us.'  Surely  this  is  the 
best  of  all.  Heaven  never  made  a  more  gracious 
promise  to  Israel  than  that  God  'shall  be  their  God, 
and  shall  dwell  among  them.'  " 

SABBATH   DESECRATION. 

"We  are  here  at  times  called  upon  to  witness  som 
of  the  crying  sins  of  our  land,  among  others  that  of 
Sabbath-breaking,  as  was  the  case  here  to-day.     Boat- 
men are  frequently  seen  passing  and  repassing,  sing- 
ing their  boat-songs,  and  calling  for  vengeance  upon 


56  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

tliemselyes  by  profane  STvearing.  A  fisliing-boat  went 
down  this  morning,  and  one  up  this  afternoon,  laden 
with  fish,  tewing  an  empty  boat.  The  boatmen  had 
to  wade  and  pull  the  boat  up  the  Little  Rapids.  But 
they  comforted  themselves  by  swearing  that  they 
would  get  drunk  at  night." 

'•^June  2.  This  morning  preached  from  Hebrews 
X,  22-24.  Yfas  much  blessed  in  attempting  to  urge 
upon  the  people  the  important  consideration  in  the 
text.  A  fixed  attention  and  deep  solemnity  j)ervaded 
the  congregation.  At  two  we  met  again,  and  par- 
took of  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper.  Brother 
Brockway  came  down,  but  was  so  unwell  as  to  be 
unable  to  attend  the  meeting,  much  less  administer 
the  eucharist;  so  this  duty  devolved  on  me.  But 
God  was  with  us  in  the  breaking  of  bread.  Some 
wept;  one  woman  was  so  afi"ected  that  she  left  the 
room  weeping  aloud;  others  rejoiced;  and  a  deep 
solemnity  characterized  the  whole  scene.  This  even- 
ing had  a  very  lively  and  interesting  prayer  meeting. 
The  members  of  the  Church  were  much  blessed." 

Enough  has  been  said  to  show,  at  least,  that  the 
Angel  of  the  covenant  was  with  this  little  Church 
just  emerging  from  the  night  of  pagan  darkness. 

NOTES   OF    STUDY. 

The  missionary  appointed  to  labor  among  the  Lidi- 
ans  has  it  in  his  power  to  shape,  to  a  good  degree, 
his  own  course.  He  can  let  himself  down  to  the 
condition   of  the   Lidians,  or,  by  habits  of  diligent 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  57 

study  and  an  adherence  to  the  customs  of  civilized 
life,  raise  the  Indian  to  the  spliere  in  "s^•hich  he  moves. 
He  can  at  least  aim  at  this  and  realize  its  gradual 
accomplishment.  The  latter  course  ^\e  chose.  In 
the  school  and  in  the  field,  as  well  as  in  the  kitchen, 
our  aim  was  to  teach  the  Indians  to  live  like  white 
people.  But  to  throw  aside  our  books  and  spend  the 
long  winter  nights  in  chatting,  and  smoking,  and 
laughing  with  the  Indians,  in  their  wigwams — a  course 
some  have  pursued — was  to  us  any  thing  but  tolera- 
ble. In  that  far-off  land,  deprived,  to  a  great  extent, 
of  civilized  society,  the  missionary  can  only  atone  for 
this  loss  by  communing  with  his  books.  It  may  be 
added,  that  to  preach  acceptably  among  either  Indians 
or  white  people  a  man  must  study. 

As  illustrative  of  the  manner  in  which  we  endeav- 
ored to  husband  our  time,  this  brief  record  is  made, 
which,  if  not  generally  edifying,  it  is  hoped  may  serve 
as  a  source  of  encouragement  to  some  young  breth- 
ren in  the  ministry,  who,  like  the  writer,  were  de- 
prived of  early  advantages,  and  have  had  to  force 
their  way  up  the  rugged  defiles  of  knowledge,  mostly 
unaided  and  alone,  beset  with  all  the  obstacles  of 
itinerant  life,  in  the  "backwoods."  My  daily  read- 
ing was  the  holy  Scriptures,  the  Old  Testament  in 
the  English,  by  course,  and  a  portion  of  the  Greek 
New  Testament.  Among  the  miscellaneous  reading, 
for  the  year,  were,  added  to  our  periodicals.  Dr. 
Olin's  Travels  in  Egypt,  Arabia,  etc.;  and,  in  con- 
nection, Dr.  Robinson's  Biblical  Researches  in  Mount 


58  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

Sinai,  etc.;  Stephens's  Central  America;  Lanman'a 
History  of  Michigan;  Bancroft's  History  of  the  United 
States,  the  first  two  volumes,  etc.  Some  attention 
"was  paid  to  the  Indian  language,  sufficient  to  enable 
me  to  read,  with  readiness,  their  hymns  and  the  Scrip- 
tures translated  into  the  Ojibwa,  so  that  the  Indians 
could  understand.  After  a  short  time  the  services 
of  an  interpreter  were  dispensed  with  in  this  work. 
Most  of  what  was  acquired  of  the  language,  other- 
wise of  practical  benefit,  was  in  colloquial  intercourse. 

'•'■  Feh.  7.  This  morning  I  finished  reading  through, 
by  course,  the  Greek  Testament.  Though  a  small 
thing  in  itself,  it  is  what,  at  one  time,  I  hardly  ex- 
pected to  accomplish — was  in  my  twenty-fourth  year 
before  I  knew  the  Greek  alphabet.  All  the  assistance 
I  have  received  from  a  teacher,  has  been  some  frac- 
tions of  four  or  five  weeks,  by  an  ordinary  linguist. 
Since  that  I  have  passed  through  some  of  the  sever- 
est conflicts  of  my  life,  and,  on  account  of  other  press- 
ing duties,  and  the  difficulties  and  discouragements 
of  mastering  a  dead  language,  alone,  I  have,  several 
times,  for  months  together,  laid  my  Greek  entirely 
aside.  But  I  have  scarcely  entered  this  delightful 
field  of  literature,  and  feel  like  'forgetting  the  things 
that  are  behind,'  and  reaching  on  to  further  attain- 
ments. I  am  reviewing  my  Latin,  and  find  I  can 
make  more  rapid  progress  than  at  any  former  period." 

To  gain  time  to  prosecute  these  studies  I  usually 
rose  at  four  or  five  in  the  morning,  and  endeavored 
carefully  to  redeem  the  passing  moments. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  59 


CLOSE   OF   TUE   Y  E  AR  — APPOINTME  N  T   TO   THE   KEWA- 
■WENON  MISSIOX. 

No  note  was  made  in  my  journal,  from  the  sixth  of 
July  to  the  twentj-fifth  of  September.  It  was  with 
us  a  very  busy  season.  In  the  absence  of  Rev.  ^Y. 
H.  Brockway,  to  visit  the  upper  missions,  it  became 
necessary  for  me  to  take  my  scythe  and  help  to  cut 
and  secure  the  hay.  During  the  year  we  had  gained 
some  members  and  lost  some,  so  that  the  returns  to 
conference  were  about  what  we  found  them.  Though 
we  could  not  rejoice  over  any  special  revival,  we  could 
at  least  perceive  that  the  Church  exhibited  signs  of 
healthfulness  and  improvement. 

We  lost,  by  death,  a  very  amiable  and  interesting 
Christian  youth,  named  Beverly  Waugh,  who  died  of 
lingering  consumption,  in  great  peace  and  triumph. 
It  has  not  been  our  lot  to  witness  many  brighter  ex- 
amples of  Christianity,  in  life  and  in  death,  any  where, 
than  was  seen  in  this  child  of  the  wilderness. 

Amid  the  ever-recurring  changes  incident  to  mor- 
tals, it  fell  to  our  lot  to  dissolve  the  relation  which  we 
sustained  to  this  mission.  It  was  the  superintendent's 
desire  that  we  should  take  charge  of  the  Kewawenon 
mission,  distant  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  on  the 
shore  of  Lake  Superior.  To  this  arrangement  we 
cheerfully  submitted,  although  we  knew  that  it  would 
subject  us  to  privations  and  perhaps  sufferings,  to 
which,  as  yet,  we  were  strangers.  The  season  was  ad- 
vancing, and  it  would  not  do  to  await  the  sanction  of 


60  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

conference.  Accordingly  we  had  our  things  boxed  up, 
and.  in  part,  sent  up  to  the  Fort,  ready  for  shipping 
on  the  Astoi',  a  noble  brig,  then  up  the  Lake,  and  ex- 
pected soon  to  return.  She  "^as  then  to  sail  for 
Kewawenon,  T\-ith  Tvinter's  supplies  for  the  traders, 
Government  officials,  missionaries,  and  others.  Mary 
Jane,  sister  of  Mrs.  P.,  Tvas  to  return  to  her  friends, 
accompanied  by  brother  Brockway,  who  left  on  the 
twenty-third  of  September,  to  attend  the  annual  con- 
ference. ^Ye  now  had  all  things  in  readiness  to  leave, 
at  short  notice,  for  our  new  home. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  61 


CHAPTER   III. 

VOYAGE    TO    KEWAWEXON. 
TV  KECK    OF    THE    ASTOR. 

The  Astor  had  been  due,  from  Lake  Superior, 
about  ten  days,  while  we  were  waiting  in  anxious 
suspense.  Meantime  the  Algonquin  arrived  with 
intelligence  that,  in  a  terrible  gale,  while  she  lay  in 
Copper  Harbor,  she  dragged  her  anchor,  and  was 
wrecked,  on  the  rocky  coast,  near  Fort  Wilkins.  It 
was  melancholy  to  think  of  the  loss  of  such  a  craft, 
especially  at  a  time  when  it  must  subject  many  to 
privation  and  suffering,  for  want  of  food,  during  the 
long  winter  just  at  hand.  The  Algonquin  was  now 
the  only  boat,  on  Lake  Superior,  that  could  be  de- 
pended on,  and  she  had  more  than  she  could  do  to 
get  supplies  to  Fort  Wilkins.  No  boat  could  go  to 
Kewawenon.  "What  were  we  to  do  in  this  strait? 
Our  missionary  at  Kewawenon,  we  knew,  must  be  out 
of  provisions.  To  hire  hands  and  go,  in  open  boat, 
or  canoe,  at  that  late  season,  must  be  attended  with 
considerable  expense,  and  subject  us  to  great  ex- 
posure. Who  should  bear  all  this  responsibility? 
The  superintendent  was  absent,  and  our  funds  were 
low.  There  are  times  when  missionaries  must  as- 
sume responsibility,  and,  in  justification,  point  to  the 


62 


LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 


necessity  or  ■wisdom  of  their  course.  ^Ye  felt  tins  to 
be  just  such  a  time.  Our  first  endeavor  Tras  to  pro- 
cure a  large  Mackinaw  boat.  But  we  soon  found 
that  the  Fur  Company  had  chartered  every  one  that 
we  could  hear  of,  to  send  supplies  to  Copper  Harbor, 
and  to  carry  on  their  fisheries.  Our  last  and  only 
alternative  was  to  buy  a  large  bark  canoe,  for  which 
we  paid  twenty  dollars.  We  rigged  it  with  sails  and 
substantial  oars,  paddles,  and  other  necessary  ap- 
pendages. 

Mrs.  P.  was  afraid  to  venture  in  so  frail  a  craft, 
and  could  hardly  have  been  persuaded  to  do. so  only 
on  being  assured,  by  one  of  our  voyagers,  that  we 
should  keep  near  the  shore — by  the  way,  at  times,  an 
impossibility,  without  the  greatest  hazard.  This  is 
especially  the  case  in  coasting  along  a  rocky  shore, 
when  the  sea  is  all  commotion,  and  a  landing  could 
not  be  eifected.  The  only  safety,  then,  is  in  keeping 
off  from  the  shore.  How  this  promise  was  fulfilled 
will  be  seen  in  the  sequel. 


OUTFIT. 


Our  books  and  goods,  except  clothes  and  bedding, 
must  be  left  to  be  forwarded  in  the  spring.  We  must 
take  provision  enough  to  supply  us  till  the  next 
s|)ring,  and  also  to  serve  for  our  journey.  We  had 
tl^ree  hearty  Indians,'  besides  our  own  family,  who,  at 
such  work,  can  always  eat  a  full  allowance.  Took 
with  us  a  tent,  four  barrels  of  flour,  in  sacks,  one 
of  pork,  also  in  sacks.     Besides  the  articles  named, 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  63 

we  took  a  keg  of  butter,  one  of  lard,  a  box  of  can- 
dles, one  of  soap,  a  small  cheese,  one  hundred  pounds 
of  sugar,  etc.  Long  slim  poles  were  laid  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  canoe  to  give  it  strength  and  firmness, 
and  all  this  lading  stowed  in,  as  few,  except  Indians, 
could  do  it.  Brother  John  Kah-beege  was  our  main 
dependence,  whose  skill,  as  an  accomplished  voyageur, 
we  had  abundant  occasion  to  prove. 

THE   JOURNEY. 

September  30th,  we  took  our  leave  of  the  Saut 
Ste.  Marie  mission — went  to  the  Fort  and  passed  our 
thmgs  over  the  portage,  and  the  canoe  over  the 
Rapids,  at  the  head  of  which  we-  camped. 

October  1.  \\Q  were  up  at  three  o'clock,  A.  M., 
and  would  have  been  off  very  early,  but  one  of  the 
men  had  returned  to  the  mission  and  detained  us. 
But  at  eight  o'clock  we  were  all  ready,  and  left,  with 
a  beautiful  day,  and  a  light  wind  aft.  At  ten  o'clock 
we  passed  Pointe  cm  Pin,  or  Pine  Point,  six  miles 
distant.  The  current  here  is  very  rapid.  In  an  hour 
more  we  had  reached  Gross  Cap,  sixteen  miles  from 
the  Saut,  on  the  Canada  side.  We  had  now  an  op- 
portunity to  test  our  Indian's  readiness  to  keep  near 
the  shore.  To  do  this  we  must  have  coasted  round 
a  deep  bay,  fifty  or  more  miles,  to  reach  White  Fish 
Point.  Directly  across  it  was  only  thirty  miles,  and 
now  the  wind  had  increased,  and  promised,  in  a  few 
hours,  to  waft  us  over. 

So   favorable   an   omen   was   not   to   be   slighted. 


64  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

Kali-beege  proposed  to  make  tlie  traverse.  Mrs.  P. 
remonstrated,  reminding  liim  of  his  promise,  but  was 
overruled.  Parisian  Island  lay  a  little  out  of  our 
course,  to  the  north-west.  "VYe  steered  directly  for 
this,  eleven  miles  distant.  Here  we  landed  a  few 
minutes,  and  again  hoisted  sail,  and  were  off  for 
White  Fish  Point.  When  out  miles  from  land,  in 
every  direction,  the  huge  waves  rose  higher  and  set 
in  stronger,  in  the  direction  we  were  bound.  But 
our  canoe  mounted  them,  and  skimmed  over  the  deep 
like  a  bird  of  passage.  About  four  o'clock,  P.  M., 
we  neared  the  Point,  passed  on  about  six  miles  far- 
ther, and  pitched  our  tent  on  a  beautiful  mossy  beach; 
rejoiced  that  the  first  day  had  landed  us  more  than 
fifty  miles  from  the  Saut.  While  at  supper  a  little 
snake  came  into  our  tent  and  crawled  into  a  tea 
saucer.  We  rested  comfortably,  and  arose  much  re- 
freshed the  next  morning. 

October  2.  '  A7e  did  not  start  early.  Our  canoe 
had  sprung  a  leak  the  day  before,  and  must  be  gum- 
med. But  we  were  ready  again  by  eight  o'clock. 
Wind  was  from  land,  and  we  kept  near  the  shore, 
and  made  slow  progress  by  rowing.  At  one  o'clock 
we  reached  Two  Heart  Rivers,  and  took  a  lunch. 
Afternoon  we  gained  a  few  miles  by  towing  and 
rowing,  alternately.  All  of  a  sudden  the  heavens, 
in  the  north  and  west,  became  very  dark,  accompanied 
by  a  roaring,  indicative  of  an  immediate  storm.  We 
made  all  possible  haste  to  get  to  tne  shore,  at  a  suit- 
able landing.     We  had  scarcely  reached  it  before  the 


MISSIO^'ARY   LIFE.  (35 

waves  were  dashing  with  such  violence  that,  with  dif- 
ficulty, two   men  could   hold   the    canoe,  while   the 
others  waded  in  and  out  to  take  out  our  things.     I 
stood  in   one   end  and  held  it  with  an  oar.     It  was 
about  as   hard  work  as  I  had  ever  attempted.     "We 
succeeded  to  get  all  on  shore,  and  our  goods  covered, 
before  it  commenced  to  rain.     We  took  shelter  under 
umbrellas  till  it  abated  sufiBcientlj  to  pitch  the  tent. 
The  night  proved  to  be  a  very  rainy  one,  but  our 
tent  sheltered  us.     The  lake  roared  terribly  all  night. 
The  next  clay  we  were  wind-bound  all  day.     To  add 
to  our  comfort  we  cast  up  a  breastwork  of  boughs, 
to   break  the   storm   from   the  tent,  which  we   had 
pitched  in  a  ravine.     One  of  the  men  went  out  hunt- 
ing, but  caught  nothing.     The  following  night  wind 
continued  from  the  lake,  and  the  roar  of  the  waves, 
dashing  against  the  shore,  was  like  the  noise  of  dis- 
tant thunder.     About  midnight  we  became  quite  un- 
easy, lest  the  waves  should  dash  over  our  provisions, 
covered  up  on  the  beach.     We  waked  up  one  of  the 
men  to  examine  their  condition.     He  returned,  ex- 
claiming, Ka-gah,  that  is,  almost.     So  we  arose  and 
carried  the  things  farther  back  from  the  water. 

October  4.  We  were  still  chained  to  our  encamp- 
ment by  adverse  weather.  Our  men  went  out  hunt- 
ing, and  returned,  in  the  evening,  with  four  partridges, 
and  each  a  handkerchief  full  of  cranberries,  the 
largest  we  had  ever  seen. 

Saturdaij,  October  5.  We  were  still  wind-bound, 
till  eleven  o'clock,  A.  M.,  when  we  once  more  left 


60  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

our  encampment.  It  was  hard  rowing  against  the 
wiiid.  ^Ye  had  not  gone  far  "when  Kah-beege  aimed 
at  three  ducks  on  the  wing,  and  shot  two  of  them. 
We  coasted  along  till  four  o'clock,  P.  M.,  making 
only  about  nine  miles.  Wind  increased  so  that  we 
were  obliged  to  land,  which  we  did  with  difficulty,  on 
account  of  the  heavy  swells  setting  in  to  the  shore. 

We  went  back  some  distance,  and  found  a  most 
delightful  spot  for  our  tent  in  a  pine  grove.  Kah- 
beege  took  his  gun  and  went  to  the  woods;  the  other 
men  and  myself  pitched  the  tent,  secured  the  stores, 
and  prepared  wood  for  the  Sabbath,  while  Mrs.  P. 
got  the  supper  in  readiness.  The  evening  was  spent 
in  drying  our  wet  bedding,  the  effect  of  rough  seas 
occasionally  breaking  over  the  canoe.  Kah-beege 
returned  with  a  partridge.  After  family  worship, 
which  we  had  regularly  morning  and  evening,  we  laid 
us  down  to  rest,  feeling  that  God's  banner  over  us 
was  love. 

Sunday,  October  6th,  was  a  most  delightful  day. 
Every  thing  about  us  wore  the  garb  of  loveliness. 
We  rested,  unmolested,  in  our  camp,  spending  the 
time  in  reading,  meditation,  and  prayer;  feeling,  in 
truth,  that  God  is  every-where  present  to  bless, 

"  In  the  void  waste  as  in  the  city  full." 

Monday  morning  we  were  up  by  one  o'clock,  and 
at  three  were  in  our  canoe,  bidding  adieu  to  our  quiet 
Sabbath  retreat.  We  passed,  before  noon,  the  "  Grcnicl 
SahU;'  or  celebrated  sand  cliffs,  lifting  their  summit 


MISSIONARY    LIFE.  67 

more  than  three  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
Lake — a  natural  curiosity  only  inferior  to  the  neigh- 
borinor  Pictured  Kocks,  so  renov,'ned  in  the  annals 
of  Lake  Superior.  These  we  passed  during  the  after- 
noon. As  the  Lake  was  calm,  we  coasted  along  close 
to  them,  and  had  a  complete  view  of  the  ever-varying 
phases  they  presented.  Their  hight  is  from  fifty  feet 
to  about  two  hundred  above  the  water,  from  which 
they  rise  boldly  and  perpendicularly.  Now  they 
present  a  smooth  wall,  supporting  trees  and  shrub- 
bery; then  a  beautiful  cascade  is  formed  by  a  stream 
leaping  from  the  summit.  Here  is  a  magnificent 
tower  cut  loose  from  the  main  wall  by  the  action 
of  the  waves;  there  we  pass  numerous  deep  caverns 
and  beautiful  arcades,  supported  by  gigantic  pillars 
and  columns.  AVe  passed  into  some  of  those  caverns 
and  under  some  of  the  arches  with  our  canoe.  The 
rocks  in  many  places  are  striped  and  tinged  with 
various  colors,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  the 
origin  of  the  name  Pictured  Rocks.  But  a  subse- 
quent view  of  this  wonderful  object  led  me  to  con- 
clude that  it  could  not  have  been  this  close  view  that 
suo^orested  the  name.  Li  the  summer  of  1852  I  saw 
those  rocks  in  the  light  of  the  setting  sun,  some 
miles  from  land.  They  appeared  like  a  magnificent 
city,  with  vast  blocks  of  brick  buildings,  several 
stories  high,  presenting  bold  pillars,  columns,  and 
arches,  relieved  with  patches  of  green  shrubbery, 
cascades,  etc.  The  picture  loomed  up  in  the  dis- 
tance,   with    constantly-varying    tints    of    light   and 


68  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

shade,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  most  gorgeous 
panorama.  Such  a  picture  as  then  seen,  spread  out 
on  canvas  by  a  good  artist,  would  be  of  rare  value. 
But  mine  is  not  the  pencil  to  give  any  adequate  con- 
ception of  this  grand  display  of  the  wisdom  and 
power  of  God.  This  wall  of  rocks  extends  about 
twelve^  miles,  and  in  the  whole  distance  there  is, 
as  I  have  been  credibly  informed,  only  two  or  three 
places  where  a  landing  could  be  eifected,  to  afford 
protection  from  the  angry  surges.  While  passing  over 
the  last  four  miles  before  we  camped,  the  wind  began 
to  breeze  up  ahead,  giving  us  a  rather  rough  sea. 
About  ten  o'clock  at  night  we  landed  on  a  sand- 
beach,  opposite  Grand  Island;  and  by  the  time  we 
had  pitched  our  tent  and  were  ready  to  retire,  we 
were  well-nigh  exhausted,  having  traveled  about  forty 
miles,  rowing  and  towing  all  the  way  except  about  a 
mile,  where  we  sailed. 

Tuesday  it  was  ten  o'clock  before  we  were  ready 
to  leave  camp.  We  crossed  over  to  Grand  Island, 
against  a  strong  head  wind.  The  Bay  became  quite 
rough.  Touched  a  few  moments  at  Mr.  Williams's, 
a  trading-post,  and  procured  some  potatoes,  and  were 
again  on  our  way.  We  kept  under  the  island  for 
some  distance,  sheltered  from  the  wind.  Sailed  about 
a  mile,  in  making  for  the   main   shore.      Here  our 


*  Messrs.  Foster  and  Whitney  say,  in  their  reports,  "rtoout  five  miles," 
embracing  doubtless  that  portion  "which  may  more  properly  be  called 
"Pictured."  It  is  common,  however,  for  the  natives  and  others  in  thai; 
country  to  spealv  of  this  whole  extent  of  rocks  as  Pictured  Rocks. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  69 

way  led  us  along  an  exceedingly  rocky  and  danger- 
ous coast.  The  -wind  increased  so  that  we  could  not 
land,  and  Tve  did  not  dare  to  put  far  out  to  sea. 
^Ye  toiled  hard  at  the  oar,  the  swells  occasionally 
dashing  into  the  canoe.  About  four  o'clock,  P.  M., 
we  were  thankful  to  reach  a  fine  sand-beach,  and  a 
small  river,  into  which  we  ran,  and  found  safe  harbor 
from  the  noisy  billows  of  the  deep.  W"e  had  only 
traveled  about  ten  miles  that  day.  Found  here  the 
frame-work  of  several  wigwams,  and  the  bones  of 
deer  and  bear,  strung  up  on  the  bushes.  Our  leisure 
was  taken  up  in  baking  bread  and  cooking  something 
for  the  journey  yet  before  us. 

October  8.  We  arose  very  early,  and  by  five  o'clock 
had  breakfasted  and  were  ready  to  start.  "We  had 
the  Huron  Mountains  in  view  much  of  the  day. 
Reached  Dead  river,  where  we  camped  for  the  night. 
A  bay  is  formed  here  by  the  jutting  out  of  a  bold, 
rocky  coast,  called  Bald  Head.  This  is  only  a  few 
miles  west  of  the  now  flourishing  town  of  Marquette, 
where  nothing  could  then  be  seen  but  the  solitary 
wigwam.  We  caught  two  fine  trout  on  our  way, 
which  relished  well  as  a  chancre  of  diet.  Here  were 
two  deserted  log-houses,  built  by  Mr.  Williams,  of 
Grand  Island. 

October  9.  We  were  wind-bound  all  day,  and  inter- 
ested ourselves  as  much  as  possible  among  the  craggy 
rocks  along  the  shore. 

October  10.  We  were  off  a  little  before  noon. 
Made  a  good  run  for  the  day,  and  sailed  about  five 


70  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

miles.  As  the  Lake  had  calmed  doTvn,  v,'e  kept  on 
all  night  till  about  three  o'clock,  A.  M.,  "^hen  we 
went  ashore,  struck  up  a  fire,  and,  without  pitching 
our  tent,  we  just  spread  our  bedding  on  the  ground, 
and  slept  a  short  time.  It  had  been  a  severe  night 
of  toil  with  us.  With  blistered  hands,  and  painfully- 
weary  limbs,  and  heavy  eyes,  we  could  have  slept 
almost  any  where. 

Saturday,  11th,  we  were  off  again  soon  after  light, 
and  stopped  once  during  the  day  to  take  a  little 
refreshment.  "We  ate  our  sad  cake  before  it  was 
fairly  baked,  resumed  our  oars,  and,  by  the  blessing 
of  an  ever-watchful  Providence,  we  reached  the  Ke- 
wawcnon  mission  just  at  dusk  in  the  evening,  rejoiced 
to  end  our  wearisome  journey  and  enjoy  the  society 
of  brother  Brown  and  his  family  around  the  cheerful 
hearth.  The  Lord  had  dealt  with  us  in  great  mercy, 
and  our  hearts  were  filled  vrith  grateful  emotions. 
After  twelve  days  and  nights  exposed  to  the  warring 
elements,  and  subjected  to  an  extraordinary  degree 
of  fatio;ue,  rest  was  to  us  sweet  and  refreshinc^.  This 
was  true  especially  of  the  rest  of  the  holj  Sabbath, 
which  soon  dawned  upon  us.  I  preached  in  the 
morning.  Brother  Brown  preached  his  farewell  ser- 
mon in  the  afternoon.  He  had  labored  three  years 
at  that  station,  and  was  beloved  by  the  Indians  as 
a  devoted  Christian  and  faithful  pastor.  All  of 
Monday  and  part  of  Tuesday  we  were  busily  em- 
ployed in  assisting  brother  Brown  in  his  prepara- 
tions to  go  to  the  Saut.     He,  his  wife,  and  a  little 


MISSIONAKY  LIFE.  71 

babe,  about  three  months  old,  were  to  take  oiir  canoe 
and  men  for  this  voyage.  Out  of  the  small  quantity 
of  provisions  we  had  brought,  we  paid  back  half  a 
barrel  of  borrowed  flour  and  some  borrowed  pork, 
and  furnished  brother  Brown  with  provisions  for  liis 
trip.  He  took  leave  of  the  mission  October  14th, 
was  sixteen  days  on  the  way,  encountered  severe 
storms,  and  his  provisions  failed  before  reaching  the 
Saut.  This  may  be  added  to  the  numerous  instances 
of  privation  and  suffering  connected  with  the  mis- 
sionary work  on  Lake  Superior. 


LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 


CHAPTER   IV. 

FIRST  YEAR  AT   THE   KEWAWEXON  MISSION. 

This  mission  is  situated  near  the  head  of  Ke-tve- 
naiv  Bay,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  on  a  sightly 
spot,  about  forty  rods  back  from  the  water.  Near 
the  house  bursts  forth  from  the  side  hill  a  living 
spring,  an  invaluable  treasure  any  where.  From  the 
shape  of  the  Bay,  this  region,  for  miles  around,  is 
called  by  the  French  L'Anse^  which  may  apply  to 
any  thing  shaped  like  an  arch.  Should  we  use  this 
word  occasionally,  instead  of  the  longer  Indian  name, 
it  will  be  understood  as  designating  the  same  place. 
The  Indian  cabins  lined  the  shore,  and  were  mostly 
those  built  by  order  of  Rev.  John  Clark.  They  bore 
evident  marks  of  age  and  decay.  The  mission-house 
was  of  hewed  logs,  about  twenty-four  by  sixteen 
•feet,  one  and  a  half  stories  high,  covered  with  cedar 
bark,  and  a  little  shanty  appended,  which  some  of  the 
missionaries  had  used  for  a  study. 

We  had  on  one  side  of  us,  near  by,  the  Govern- 
ment blacksmith,  and  on  the  otlier  side  the  carpenter, 
and  off  some  distance,  in  another  direction,  was  the 
farmer's  family.  These  constituted  our  white  neigh- 
bors. Across  the  Bay,  directly  opposite,  was  the 
Catholic  mission,  three  miles  distant. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  73 

PKEPAEATIONS   FOR   WINTER. 

The  roof  on  the  mission-house  Tvas  old  and  leaked 
badly.  "We  therefore  purchased  cedar  barks  of  the 
Indians,  and  put  on  a  new  roof.  Then  we  took  out 
the  old  mortar,  and  pointed  the  house  anew  with 
ixood  lime  mortar,  and  whitewashed  it  inside,  which 
very  much  added  to  its  appearance  as  well  as  comfort. 
This  cost  us  a  week  of  hard  toil. 

BROTHER   AXD   SISTER   MARKSilAN. 

At  this  time  Peter  Marksman  was  not  a  member 
of  the  Church.  A  wily  snare  had  been  but  too  suc- 
cessfully laid  for  his  feet,  and  he  became  entangled 
and  fell.  He  was  shorn  of  that  strength  which  had 
characterized  him  as  a  youthful  preacher  among  the 
Indians  of  Saginaw,  where  he  had  been  instrumental 
in  turning  many  from  heathenism  to  God.  Our  mis- 
sion sensibly  felt  the  force  of  such  a  shock.  But 
brother  Marksman  had  the  magnanimity  to  own  his 
fault,  and  he  deeply  deplored  his  fall;  and,  in  process 
of  time,  that  look  which  had  broken  a  faithless 
Peter's  heart  moved  him  to  genuine  repentance,  and 
he  was  restored  again  to  the  favor  of  God  and  to 
his  former  standing  in  the  Church.  Mrs.  Marksman 
had  been  educated  at  the  mission  of  the  American 
Board  at  La  Pointe,  and  was,  in  every  respect,  an 
intelligent  Christian  lady,  and  a  very  neat  house- 
keeper.    This  union  proved  to  be  a  very  happy  one. 

Dm-ing  the  winter  they  occupied  a  part  of  the  mission 

7 


74  LIGHTS  AND    SHADES   OF 

building.      Brother   Marksman  was   my  interpreter, 
and  generally  took  charge  of  the  school. 

PRODUCE   FROM   THE   MISSION   GARDEN. 

Brother  Brown  had  raised  and  stored  away  about 
fifty  bushels  of  excellent  potatoes,  and  left  some  fine 
turnips  in  the  ground,  which,  with  our  scanty  supplies, 
and  the  unusually  hard  winter  which  was  just  at  hand, 
afforded  us  great  relief,  and  enabled  us  to  feed  many 
hungry  persons,  who  looked  to  us  when  other  sources 
failed. 

OUR   FURNITURE. 

There  was  one  old,  rickety  table;  several  stools; 
two  splint-bottom  chairs  in  their  decrepitude;  one 
rocking-chair,  made  of  materials  taken  from  the 
woods  by  one  of  the  missionaries,  without  form  or 
comeliness;  and  a  lounge,  the  frame  of  which  was 
bass-wood  puncheon,  and  rough  enough  at  that. 
What  other  furniture  we  found  was  about  ditto,  ex- 
cepting a  cooking-stove  and  a  box-stove. 

SCHOOLS. 

In  our  day  school  we  had  from  thirty  to  forty 
scholars.  Like  most  Indian  schools,  the  attendance 
varied  much  according  to  circumstances.  When  the 
Indians  were  all  at  the  mission,  the  school  was  gen- 
erally well  attended;  but  often,  in  the  season  for 
hunting,  making  sugar,  etc.,  the  children  would  accom- 
pany the  parents  to  the  woods.     This  was  especially 


MISSIONARY   LIFE. 


7;) 


so  in  sugar-making,  -when  the  whole  family  usually 
removed,  and  the  school  for  a  time  had  to  be  discon- 
tinued. The  Indians  are  not  fond  of  confinement, 
and  missionaries,  uniformly,  experience  much  embar- 
rassment in  conducting  schools  among  them,  from 
their  restless  and  unsettled  habits.  In  the  school  at 
Kewawenon,  we  found  that  the  scholars  did  not  ac- 
quire the  English  language  so  readily  as  the  children 
boarded  at  the  mission  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie.  The 
reason,  every  person  vrill  perceive,  was  that,  in  the 
one  case,  they  heard  scarcely  any  thing  at  home  but 
their  own  language — in  the  other  it  was  mostly  Eng- 
lish. Like  most  people  they  prefer  their  mother 
tongue  to  any  other.  Vrhon  the  school  could  be  kept 
up,  we  did  all  in  our  power  to  advance  the  childi-en  in 
the  elementary  studies  adapted  to  their  capacities. 
And  we  were  permitted  to  see  them  make  commend- 
able progress. 

As  indispensable  to  every  mission,  we  had  also  a 
Sabbath  school.  Besides  the  children  of  the  day 
school,  we  sometimes  had  married  persons  and  such 
as  were  far  advanced  in  life  in  attendance.  These 
were  taught  to  read  the  hymn-book,  and  also  the 
word  of  God  in  the  Ojibwa. 

The  Sabbath  school,  as  well  as  the  day  school,  was 
a  work  of  time  as  well  as  of  faith.  We  could  not 
look  for  any  marked  immediate  results.  This  remark 
holds  true  of  most  missions  among  the  heathen.  And 
such  as  can  not  be  satisfied,  except  with  a  great  show 
of  statistics,  will  meet  with  disappointment  in  looking 


76  LIGHTS    AND   SHADES   OF 

at  results;  they  are  but  gradually,   often  slowly  de- 
veloped. 

SCARLET   FEYEE. 

Tn  the  early  part  of  Noyember,  the  scarlet  fever 
broke  out  in  the  settlement.  Several  of  our  nearest 
neighbors  vrere  attacked — some  were  quite  sick,  but 
it  did  not  prove  fatal  in  any  case.  Brother  Marks- 
man and  wife,  and  A.  W.  B.,  a  young  man  boarding 
with  us,  all  were  prostrated  by  it,  and  as  they  began 
to  recover  our  Carrie  was  taken ;  but  in  her  case  it 
was  light,  and  soon  passed  off.  We  were  thankful  to 
escape  with  no  farther  injury. 

MANUAL   LABOR. 

No  person  is  fit  to  be  a  missionary  who  is  not  will- 
ing to  labor  with  his  hands.  The  apostle  Paul  v>-as 
not  ashamed  thus  to  labor.  But  there  is  another 
extreme  into  which  some  of  our  missionaries  are 
driven,  from  necessity — too  much  and  too  severe 
manual  labor.  Ours  was  a  remote  station.  Hired 
help  was,  at  that  time,  scarcely  to  be  obtained.  And 
if  it  could,  we  were  out  of  funds  to  pay  workmen. 
There  was  much  work  to  be  done,  and  the  missionary 
must  do  it  mostly,  or  every  thing  must  be  at  loose 
ends.  The  repairs  about  the  mission  have  been  men- 
tioned. An  old  hovel  had  ansvrered  for  barn  and 
stable.  This  must  be  torn  down  and  a  better  one 
built,  which  was  not  done  without  some  labor.  Our 
fire  wood  must  be. chopped  in  the  woods,  then  drawn 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  77 

and  prepared  for  the  fire  by  the  missionary — no  small 
chore  in  that  cold  region.  He  must  also  aid  in  pro- 
curing wood  for  the  school  and  the  meetings.  His 
hay  was  several  miles  distant,  at  a  marsh,  and  must 
be  drawn  in  on  a  single  ox-train,  over  a  narrow, 
crooked  trail,  through  the  woods.  Considerable  fenc- 
ing must  be  done  in  the  coming  spring,  and  it  was 
necessary  to  go  into  the  cedar  swamp,  cut  and  split 
the  rails,  and  draw  thein  to  their  place.  When 
summer  came  the  potatoes  must  be  planted,  and  the 
sowing  done,  and  the  growing  crops  cultivated,  to 
aiford  us  supplies  for  the  coming  winter.  From  such 
numerous  and  pressing  duties  we  were  often  in  weari- 
ness and  pain,  and  deprived  of  time  needful  for  study 
and  pastoral  duties.  Our  white  neighbors  afforded  us 
much  relief  in  such  emergencies;  we  changed  work, 
and  so  assisted  each  other.  As  an  illustration  of  the 
severe  labor  it  was  found  necessary  to  perform,  the 
following  note,  made  December  7th,  may  serve : 

"Since  we  have  been  here  I  have  been  but  illy  pre- 
pared to  preach.  Have  been  under  the  necessity  of 
laboring  so  hard  in  the  week,  as  not  only  to  interfere 
with  time  necessary  for  study,  but  so  that,  on  the 
Sabbath,  I  have  felt  jaded  down.  Have  not  been 
able  to  set  apart  one  whole  day  to  study  since  we 
came.  And  nearly  eveiy  week-day  have  labored 
hard  from  morning  till  night  with  my  hands." 

It  is  not  here  intimated  that  such  continued  to  be 
the  case  all  the  time ;  but  it  is  a  fair  sample  of  what 
must    often   be    done,  for   days   and   sometimes   for 


78  LIGHTS   AXD    SHADES   OF 

weeks,  in  succession.  In  the  earlj  part  of  the  fol- 
lowing summer,  aided  bj  the  Indians,  who,  in  this 
instance,  did  themselves  great  credit,  our  school-house 
was  renovated.  It  had  been  daubed  inside  and  out- 
side with  red  clay.  This  had  fallen  out  in  places,  and 
the  house  was  dirty  and  uncomfortable.  Besides,  the 
roof  leaked  badly.  We  put  on  a  new  roof  of  cedar 
bark — took  out  the  old  mortar,  and  Avashed  the  logs 
clean  inside — then  pointed  it  with  lime-mortar,  and 
whitewashed  it  inside  and  outside.  After  the  women 
had  finished  the  scrubbing,  we  had  a  place  of  worship 
that  we  had  no  reason  to  be  ashamed  of. 

RELIGIOUS   ASPECT. 

There  had  been  a  time  of  great  religious  promise 
at  this  station.  This  was  soon  after  the  foundation 
of  the  mission  was  laid,  by  the  lamented  John  Clark. 
Then  the  Indians  were  collected  about  the  station, 
several  hundred  in  number.  Instead  of  being  for- 
tified by  a  strong  force,  it  was  subsequently,  for  .years, 
placed  under  the  charge  of  single  men,  who  often  did 
their  own  cooking,  and  who,  in  that  far-ofi"  land,  felt, 
at  times,  as  if  they  were  expatriated.  Generally, 
they  would  return  to  visit  their  parents  toward  the 
close  of  the  year — perhaps  to  remain.  At  such  times 
the  mission  would  be  left,  for  two  or  three  months,  to 
take  care  of  itself.  Taking  advantage  of  such  cir- 
cumstances. Catholic  emissaries,  headed  by  the  priest, 
brought  about  a  division  in  the  band,  and  induced  a 
large  portion  to  cross  over   to   the  Avcst  side  of  the 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  79 

bay,  where  a  flourishing  mission  was  established  at  an 
expense  and  sacrifice  worthy  of  a  better  cause.  The 
tide  of  prosperity  had  changed,  and  our  little  society 
was  called  to  pass  through  sad  reverses. 

The  Indian  membership  we  found  generally  at- 
tached to  the  institutions  of  the  Church.  They  were 
remarkably  punctual  in  attendance  on  the  public 
worship  of  God — were  attached  to  the  class,  and  met 
in  the  prayer  meeting.  If  they  were  disposed  to  neg- 
lect any  means  of  grace  it  was  the  eucharist.  In  this 
solemn  service  there  was  something  which  inspired 
them  with  such  feelings  of  awe,  accompanied  with 
such  a  sense  of  unworthiness,  that,  at  times,  they 
would  look  on  with  amazement,  as  if  the  very  scenes 
of  Calvary  were  enacted  before  them,  not  daring  to 
approach.  Exhortation  and  entreaty  had  often  to  be 
used  to  enforce  the  observance  of  this  duty.  The 
whole  congregation  kneeled  in  time  of  prayer,  and 
stood  up  while  vre  sung.  Storms  seldom  kept  them 
from  the  house  of  worship,  so  that  our  congregations 
were  not  half  as  fluctuating  as  among  our  own  people. 

During  the  early  part  of  the  winter  no  extraordi- 
nary religious  interest  was  manifest.  Preaching  once, 
sometimes  twice  a  day,  on  the  Sabbath ;  class  meeting 
and  prayei:  meeting  were  our  usual  services  among 
the  Indians.  Once  in  two  weeks  I  preached  to  the 
whites,  on  Sabbath  afternoon.  About  midwinter  wo 
commenced  prayer  meeting  at  five  o'clock  Sunday 
mornings,  and  kept  it  up  the  remainder  of  the  winter, 
and    part   of    the    summer.      These   meetings   Avcre 


80  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OP 

mostly  confined  to  the  whites,  including  brother  and 
sister  Marksman,  and  were  often  seasons  of  great 
spiritual  profit  to  us.  New- Year's  eve  we  held  a 
watch  meeting,  which  was  attended  with  the  Divine 
presence  and  blessing.  The  services  commenced  at 
nine  o'clock,  and  continued  till  the  close  of  the  year. 
The  new  year  was  ushered  in  with  the  voice  of  prayer. 
The  little  society  covenanted  together  to  live  nearer 
to  God;  and  several  expressed,  by  rising  to  their  feet, 
that  they  desired  to  be  Christians. 

During  the  month  of  January  we  had  frequent 
evening  meetings,  sometimes  occupying  nearly  every 
evening  in  the  week.  The  Church  was  greatly  quick- 
ened, but  we  were  favored  with  no  general  revival. 

As  usual,  about  the  first  of  March  the  Indians 
left  for  the  sugar  bush,  and  our  meetings,  till  they 
returned,  were  thinly  attended.  We  visited  them  sev- 
eral times  in  their  encampment,  and  broke  to  them 
the  bread  of  life. 

In  the  early  part  of  May  our  little  society  was 
favored  with  a  refreshing  shower  of  grace.  The  fol- 
lowing facts  were  recorded  the  5th :  ''  The  Lord 
appears  to  be  favoring  us  with  an  outpouring  of  his 
Spirit  upon  the  Church  here.  This  commenced  with 
brother  J.,  who  stated,  in  meeting  yesterday,  that, 
for  some  time  past,  he  had  lived  much  in  unbelief, 
and  at  a  great  distance  from  God.  Last  Wednesday 
he  was  peculiarly  drawn  out  in  prayer  to  God,  and 
while  in  an  agony,  these  words  came  into  his  mind, 
<  Only   believe,'    and    he    exclaimed,    '  Lord,    I   will 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  81 

believe,'  and  instantly  his -burden  was  removed,  and 
ever  since  he  had  been  so  blessed  that  he  felt  like 
shouting  and  praising  God  aloud,  wherever  he  went. 
He  immediately  told  his  wife  what  the  Lord  had  done 
for  him,  and  exhorted  her  to  look  for  the  same  bless- 
ing. From  her  acknowledgment,  she  also  had  been 
in  a  backslidden  state.  She  stated  that  instead  of 
feeling  happy  at  what  her  husband  had  related,  it 
appeared  to  make  her  angry  at  the  Lord,  saying 
that  she  had  done  all  she  could.  Her  husband  still 
pressed  the  case — she  yielded — gave  herself  anew  to 
Christ,  and  has  since  rejoiced  in  the  liberty  of  the 
Gospel.     Brother  J.  was  the  carpenter. 

"  Some  others  of  our  white  brethren  and  sisters  have 
been  greatly  blessed  since.  My  own  soul  has  shared 
in  the  general  blessing.  To-day  Peter  3IarJcsman 
was  brought  into  the  liberty  of  the  Gospel,  from 
which  he  fell  last  year,  and  which  he  has  again  been 
seeking  for  some  months  past.  I  trust  this  flame  will 
spread  not  only  among  the  whites  but  among  the 
Indians.  They  are  still,  most  of  them,  absent  in  the 
sugar-camps.  This  evening  was  our  monthly  mission- 
ary prayer  meeting,  and  it  proved  a  truly -refreshing 
season. 

3Iay  25.  Things  appear  more  promising  in  re- 
gard to  the  spiritual  interests  of  the  mission.  For 
some  two  months  and  a  half  the  Lidians  have  been 
scattered;  they  are  now  together  again.  Our  day 
school  commenced  last  week.  This  morning  pur  Sab- 
bath school  opened  with  some  promise.     We  had  five 


82  L  I  G II  T  S  A  N  D   S  11 A  D  E  S  0  F 

o'clock  meeting  tins  morning,  both  among  the  ^vhite 
people  and  the  Indians.  At  lOJ  o'clock,  A.  M.,  I 
preached  from  Isaiah  lii,  1.  Had  the  largest  con- 
gregation we  had  seen  for  some  time.  Was  blessed 
with  great  enlargement  in  preaching.  Had  not  ex- 
perienced such  an  overwhelming  sense  of  the  Divine 
presence  before  since  our  arrival.  My  faith  in  the 
power  of  God  to  accompany  the  preaching  of  the 
Gospel,  by  however  weak  instrumentality,  was  in- 
creased, and  my  soul  went  out  in  longing  desire  for 
the  Indians.     God  was  present  to  bless  his  people." 

In  the  afternoon,  in  the  midst  of  our  meeting, 
the  alarm  of  fire  was  given.  It  had  been  raging 
fearfully  in  the  woods,  and  found  its  way  into  an  old 
slashing  close  to  the  mission,  and  the  rest  of  the 
afternoon  and  evening  we  were  forced  to  fight  the 
fire  desperately  to  preserve  our  fences  and  buildings. 

Many  of  our  meetings  during  the  summer  season 
possessed  much  interest,  but,  in  the  midst  of  many 
pressing  duties,  no  accurate  memoranda  were  kept. 
As  our  work  was  here  mostly  confined  to  one  spot, 
there  was,  necessarily,  much  monotony  in  the  routine 
of  our  duty. 

Brother  Carrier,  the  farmer,  and  his  excellent  wife, 
exerted  a  most  wholesome  influence  among  the  In- 
dians. They  were  Congregationalists,  educated  at  the 
Oberlin  School,  Ohio.  They  felt  that  their  mission 
was  not  simply  to  teach  the  Indians  how  to  plow  and 
plant.  Sister  C,  who  possessed  a  more  than  common 
degree  of  intelligence,  studied  the  Indian  language, 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  83 

and,  taking  sister  Marksman  for  interpreter,  she  used 
to  visit  the  Indians  in  their  houses,  read  God's  word 
to  them,  pray  with  them,  and  instruct  them  how  to 
live  as  Christians,  and  as  white  people.  A  female 
prayer  meeting  was  established,  and  a  moral  reform 
society  organized  for  the  benefit  of  the  Indians.  If 
the  Government  should  send  such  families  among  the 
Indians,  instead  of  supplying  those  posts  with  men, 
a?  is  often  done,  who  have  no  higher  claim  than  that 
their  political  creed  accords  with  the  party  in  power, 
they  would  shed  light  and  happiness  on  the  pathway 
of  the  Indian.  If  any  Government  ofiicers  should  be 
persons  of  sterling  moral  character,  they  are  those 
sent  among  the  natives. 

SEVERITY   or   THE   WINTER. 

The  ground  was  covered  with  snow  about  the  mid- 
dle of  October.  This  left  us,  and  we  had  several  days 
of  very  fine  weather.  The  14th  of  ISTovember  several 
inches'  of  snow  fell,  and  winter  was  soon  upon  us 
in  f^ood  earnest.  The  coldest  weather  commenced 
about  the  last  of  January.  We  had  no  thermometer 
to  show  the  exact  state  of  the  weather.  January 
31st,  the  bay  was  frozen  over,  and  as  it  had  been 
calm  it  was  perfectly  smooth  for  miles.  This  was  a 
source  of  joy  to  the  Indians.  They  had  caught  but 
few  fish  for  a  month  or  two  before — now  the  prospect 
was  that  they  could  set  their  nets  to  advantage. 
Most  of  the  settlement  were  out.  on  the  ice  skating 
and  fishing.     But  in  less  than  a  week  a  terrible  gale 


^ 


84  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

from  the  north-east  broke  the  ice  all  to  pieces,  and 
drove  it  together  edgeways,  and  in  all  forms,  six  or 
eight  feet  deep,  destroying  a  number  of  nets,  and 
rendering  it  impossible  for  the  Indians  to  set  others. 
In  a  time  of  such  scarcity  as  then  existed  in  the 
provision  line,  every  thing  looked  gloomy.  From 
that  on  till  the  last  of  March,  very  few  fish  were 
caught.  The  potatoes  had  been  mostly  consumed, 
and  the  game  taken  from  the  woods  was  inadequate. 
There  was,  necessarily,  a  considerable  amount  of 
suffering  before  the  winter  closed.  During  sugar- 
making  some  lived  almost  entirely  on  sugar.  But 
God  mercifully  preserved  both  whites  and  Indians 
till  the  opening  spring  afforded  us  plenty  of  the 
most  delicious  fish,  and  the  whitened  sail  was  seen 
in  the  distance,  which  brought  us  a  new  recruit  from 
below.  In  this  time  of  want  and  hunger  we  set  apart 
a  day  of  fasting  and  prayer  among  the  whites,  and 
met  during  the  day  for  public  worship. 

PEOVIDEXTIAL   DELIVERANCE. 

Toward  the  latter  part  of  March,  in  company 
with  some  other  men,  I  was  helping  to  remove  some 
hay  from  a  marsh  to  the  shore,  near  the  head  of  the 
bay.  The  marsh  was  about  a  mile  back  through  the 
woods.  Just  at  the  bay  our  trail  crossed  a  very  deep 
creek.  We  had  drawn  most  of  the  stack.  I  had 
just  passed  over  the  creek  with  an  ox  and  train, 
threvv'  off  the  hay,  and  was  returning  for  my  last  load. 
The  ice  gave  way  and  the  ox  fell  through.     Fortu- 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  85 

nately  the  bow-pin  came  out,  and  tlie  ox  was  iisen- 
tangled  from  tlie  yoke  and  train.  I  cauglit  a  rope 
wliich  wo  had  for  binding  the  hay,  and,  in  an  instant, 
made  fast  to  the  horns  of  the  ox,' which  must  soon 
have  gone  under.  By  this  means  I  kept  his  head 
out  of  the  water.  I  next  called  aloud  to  the  men 
at  the  marsh,  who  heard  me,  and  came  speedily  to 
my  assistance.  We  released  the  ox  without  loss  or 
damage  to  any  thing  ;  but  it  was  not  till  after  all  was 
done  that  I  realized  my  own  imminent  danger.  Some 
y  regard  this  as  a  mere  instance  of  good  luck ;  I 


ma 


rejoice  to  trace  in  such  events  the  hand  of  a  kind 
Providence,  and  to  ascribe  to  his  name  the  glory. 

STUDIES. 

Our  opportunity  for  study  was,  at  best,  but  limited. 
yij  library  had  been  left  at  the  Saut  during  the 
winter.  In  this  interval  we  had  received  but  one 
mail,  and  that  we  had  hired  an  Indian  to  bring  on 
his  back  from  Saut  Ste.  3Iarie.  The  Bible  and  Greek 
Testament  were  constant  companions.  In  the  spring 
I  added  a  copy  of  the  Septuagint  to  my  course. 
When  our  books  arrived  we  endeavored,  as  fiir  as 
practicable,  to  obey  the  apostle's  injunction,  ^'  Give 
attendance  to  reading,"  and  strove,  meanwhile,  at 
least,  not  to  forget  the  use  of  the  pen.  Would  that 
our  profiting  had  been  more  apparent ! 


• 


S6  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OP 


CHAPTER  y. 

TRIP   TO    LA   POINTE    TO    ATTEND    THE    INDIAN 
PAYMENT. 

Our  Indians  were  to  receive  tlieir  annuities  at  La 
Pointe.  It  was  agreed  that  a  few  should  go  and 
receive  the  pay,  and  the  rest  remain  at  the  mission. 
I  had  arranged  to  accompany  them. 

Tuesday,  August  12.  ^Ye  left  in  a  large  bark 
canoe  which  the  chief,  David  King,  had  made  for 
the  purpose.  There  were  four  stout  Indians,  besides 
David,  who  himself  possesses  a  herculean  frame.  We 
crossed  over  to  the  Entry,  into  Portage  river,  and 
camped  at  night  on  the  shore  of  Portage  Lake.  We 
had  fallen  in  company  with  several  canoes  from  the 
Catholic  mission.  The  next  morning  we  were  up  by 
three  o'clock,  and  left  our  camp  a  little  after  four. 
Went  eight  miles  and  breakfasted.  David  and  G. 
were  quite  unwell,  and  took  an  emetic  of  alder  bark, 
drinking  a  iarge  quantity  of  warm  water.  It  did  the 
work  effectually;  for  in  a  few  minutes  they  were 
ready  to  take  down  as  much  bread,  pork,  potatoes, 
fish,  and  coffee  as  any  body.  We  soon  reached  what 
is  called  the  Portage — a  mile  and  a  half  of  land  car- 
riajre,  where  the  canoe  and  all  our  effects  must  be 
carried  over.     One-third  of  the  way  we  had  to  wade 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  .87 

m  water  and  mud.  To  me  this  was  quite  new  busi- 
ness. But  we  were  all  over  before  noon  to  tbe  shore 
of  Lake  Superior.  Here  we  were  wind-bound  the 
remainder  of  the  afternoon.  A  little  after  midnight 
we  were  off  again — the  day  was  fine,  but  the  sun 
scorchino;  hot  at  noon,  and  the  Lake  calm.  "We 
coasted  about  seventy  miles  and  camped.  Friday 
morning  we  were  on  our  way  again  by  half-past 
four  o'clock;  but  we  were  baffled  most  of  the  day 
by  contrary  winds.  About  five  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we 
ran  into  Carp  river,  where  we  found  safe  harbor. 
Shortly  after  James  Schoolcraft,  sutler  from  Fort 
Brady,  came  up  with  a  large  canoe  and  camped.  I 
felt  concerned  lest  we  should  be  caught  out  over  the 
Sabbath,  and  determined  to  urge  our  men  off  as  soon 
as  the  Lake  was  sufficiently  calm.  Instead  of  camping 
on  shore  with  them,  I  took  a  blanket  and  laid  down 
in  the  canoe,  which  was  made  fast  in  the  river.  At 
eleven  o'clock  I  aroused  the  men,  and.  urged  them  to 
start.  The  chief  said,  '•^Ka-gali  Ne-sliko-de-ze;'"  that 
is,  "I  am  almost  mad.  You  know  but  little  about 
the  Lake."  To  this  I  readily  assented,  but  was  well 
assured  that  we  could  go,  and  told  him  we  could  try. 
I  succeeded  in  getting  them  off  about  midnight.  When 
we  first  started  heavy  dead  swells  were  rolling,  but 
the  Lake  soon  became  quite  calm,  and  we  had  coasted 
about  twenty  miles  by  the  time  it  was  fairly  light, 
and  stopped  for  breakfast  at  the  mouth  of  Black 
river.  Here  we  found  a  tent  and  three  copper  hunt- 
ers.    Breakfast  over,  we  put  out  again  to  sea,  rowed 


$ 


88  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF      . 

about  four  miles  from  shore,  and  a  most  favorable 
breeze  sprung  up  from  the  north-east.  Now  we  had 
up  main,  fore,  and  top-sail,  but  the  wind  increasing, 
all  were  taken  down  but  the  fore-sail,  and  that  closely 
reefed.  Here  was  a  traverse  of  about  forty  miles, 
directly  to  La  Pointe.  The  heavy  seas,  which  soon 
set  into  the  bay,  made  it  dangerous  to  effect  a  landing 
any  where  short  of  this.  So,  heading  directly  for  La 
Pointe,  we  sailed  at  a  rapid  rate.  The  sea  became 
very  rough  when  w^e  were  in  the  midst  of  this  great 
traverse.  Now  the  high  land  to  the  left  of  us  was  in 
full  view,  and  the  Montreal  river,  dashing  and  foam- 
ing over  falls  of  about  eighty  feet  in  hight ;  then  all 
was  hid  in  that  direction  but  the  blue  sky.  How  frail 
w^as  our  craft,  and  what  atoms  we  ourselves,  compared 
with  the  billows  around  us !  But  God  was  with  us, 
and  held  us  in  the  hollow  of  his  hand.  Here  we  felt 
how  good  it  was  to  trust  in  the  Lord.  By  about  noon 
on  Saturday  we  landed  in  safety  on  Madeline  Island, 
at  La  Pointe.  I  was  very  kindly  received  by  the 
missionaries  of  the  American  Board,  composed  of 
Rev.  S.  Hall  and  family,  Rev.  Mr.  Wheeler  and  Mr. 
Sproats  and  their  families.  Met  here,  also,  Mr.  Ely, 
a  missionary  from  Pokegama,  brother  P.  0.  Johnson, 
from  Leach  Lake,  several  Lidian  preachers,  and  Rev. 
Mr.  Rosseal,  from  the  state  of  New  York.  Here 
were,  also,  traders  and  visitors  from  the  Saut,  Detroit, 
and  other  parts,  and  the  place  swarmed  with  Lidians 
who  had  come  hundreds  of  miles,  out  of  the  dense 
wilderness,  to  receive  their  annuity.     We  were  do- 


# 


I 


MISSION.\RY   LIFE.  91 

tained  here  thirteen  days  before  Tve  could  leave, 
during  which  our  time  Avas  spent  very  agreeably 
and  profitably  with  the  resident  and  visiting  mis- 
sionaries. It  was  to  us  a  kind  pf  missionary  con- 
ference, and  made  up  for  many  of  our  past  priva- 
tions. "With  those  devoted  missionary  brethren  we 
lived  much  in  a  few  days. 

RELIGIOUS   EXERCISES. 

Each  Sabbath  we  had  four  services,  two  in  English 
and  two  in  Ojibwa,  in  which  the  resident  and  visit- 
ing brethren  participated.  "We  had  also  a  morning 
prayer  meeting  each  day  in  the  week.  Among  our 
most  hallowed  seasons  were  those  spent  under  the  J, 

mission-roof  at  family  worship.     Two  of  the  mission  •' 

famiHcs,  with  their  visitors  and  boarders,  met  around 
one  altar.  Amono;  them  were  several  charminn-  sinf'- 
ers.  All  present  took  part  in  reading  the  holy  Scrip- 
tures. The  persons  who  led  the  devotions  made 
brief  remarks  on  the  lesson.  This  was  followed  by  a 
devotional  hymn,  in  which  the  difi'erent  parts  were 
carried.  Then  followed  the  prayer.  The  Spirit's 
divine  influence  seemed  to  fill  the  room.  "\Ye  felt  as 
Peter,  on  the  Mount  of  Vision,  that  it  was  good  to  be 
there.  These  delightful  exercises  were  conducted 
with  the  spirit  and  with  the  understanding  also. 
Such  a  bright  spot  was  like  an  oasis  in  the  desert. 
AYe  hope  never  to  forget  those  sacred  hours.  Our 
seasons   of  public  worship  were    attended   with   the 

divine  blessin-x. 

^        8 


I 


92  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 


THE  MISSIOT\. 

Kev.  S.  Hall,  the  superintendent,  had  resided  here 
about  thirteen  years,  with  an  interesting  family  of 
children  growing  up  around  him,  who  were  about  as 
familiar  with  the  Indian  as  with  their  native  tongue. 
Mr.  Hall  has  been,  in  every  sense,  a  laborious  mis- 
sionary, working  hard  with  his  hands,  preaching, 
translating,  etc.  With  the  aid  of  native  interpreters, 
he  had  translated  the  New  Testament  into  the  Ojibwa, 
a  work  which  is  invaluable  to  the  missions  all  through 
that  region.  Rev.  Mr.  Wheeler,  of  whom  we  could 
say  many  good  things,  spent  considerable  time  at  Bad 
river,  where  he  has  since  succeeded  in  establishing  a 
flourishing  mission.  Two  schools  were  under  the  di- 
rection of  the  mission  at  La  Pointe — one  taught  by 
Mr.  Sproats  and  the  other  by  Miss  Spooner,  a  well- 
qualified  Christian  lady,  who,  like  the  others,  had,  for 
Christ's  sake,  volunteered  to  leave  friends  and  home 
in  the  east,  to  be  a  missionary.  The  schools  were 
reported  as  in  a  flourishing  condition.  Most  of  our 
missionaries,  about  Lake  Superior,  have  occasionally 
found  shelter  under  the  roof  of  that  mission,  and 
there  is  but  one  voice  from  the  whole,  in  regard  to 
the  unafi*ected  hospitality  and  dignified  Christian  bear- 
ingr  of  those  missionaries  and  their  families.  In  com- 
paring  the  mission  here,  with  our  Methodist  missions 
among  the  Indians,  I  gained  the  impression  that  these 
missionaries  excelled  us  in  their  schools,  and  en- 
deavored to  train  the  Indians  intellectually ;  but  that 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  93 

we  were  far  in  advance,  so  far  as  making  converts 
from  paganism  is  concerned,  and  in  promoting  their 
civilization  generally.  Each,  however,  has  marked 
out  its  appropriate  sphere  of  influence,  and  is  accom- 
plishing the  one  great  work.'-^ 

INDIANS   FROM   THE   WOODS. 

Their  condition  appeared  deplorable  enough.  Many 
of  them  were  disgustingly  filthy — they  looked  as  if 
they  never  pret-ended  to  wash  either  their  persons  or 
their  clothes.  Some  of  them  had  scarcely  a  tatter  of 
even  a  filthy  garment  about  them,  and  were  almost 
destitute  of  provisions.  They  were  painted  and  dis- 
figured, and  decorated  in  the  most  grotesque  and 
ludicrous  manner.  Their  outward  appearance  was 
only  the  counterpart  of  their  minds — ignorant,  mor- 
ally polluted,  and  debased  to  the  level  of  the  brute. 
Their  insolent  pride  gave  the  finishing  stroke  to  their 
morally  depraved  condition.  They  were  much  ad- 
dicted to  gambling — some  of  them  would  part  with 
all  they  had,  in  their  strife  to  win  the  game.  All  that 
was  wanting  to  complete  their  wretchedness  was,  to 
let  them  have  whisky,  which,  fortunately,  at  this  pay- 
ment, by  untiring  vigilance,  was  kept  from  them.  In 
looking  at  our  Christian  Indians,  by  the  side  of  those, 


*  It  is  duo  to  us  to  observe,  that  a  large  proportion  of  those  in  attend- 
ance upon  those  schools  were  of  a  mixed  population— few  full-blooded 
Indians.  They  -were  consequently  more  settled— less  dependent  on  the 
chase,  and  better  prepared  to  excel  in  their  studies.  Under  the  direction 
of  such  teachers  they  cuuld  not  but  succeed. 


f)4  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

I  wanted  no  furtlicr  proof  of  the  power  of  tlie  Gospel 
to  elevate  the  red  man. 

WAE-DANCE   AND    HEATHEN   BUniAL. 

On  the  evening  of  the  19th  the  Indians  had  a  war- 
dance.  Tliey  made  dull  music  on  two  drums  of  their 
own  construction.  This  was  accompanied  by  singing 
and  an  occasional  whoop.  They  commenced  in  a 
large  lodge  and  marched  out,  when  they  were  joined 
by  others,  till  tliey  formed  quite  a  procession.  Two 
of  them  had  flags  of  divers  colors.  They  marched  in 
a  kind  of  dance.  In  those  dances  some  one  usually 
makes  a  speech  in  which  some  great  exploits  are 
recounted. 

On  the  evening  of  the  29th  we  observed  a  funeral. 
An  aged  Indian,  after  he  had  received  his  pay,  was 
returning  to  his  lodge,  and  dropped  down  dead  in  the 
road.  This  was  about  noon.  Just  before  dusk  he 
was  buried,  according  to  heathen  custom.  A  kettle 
of  provision  was  put  in  the  grave  by  the  head  of  the 
departed,  on  which  it  was  supposed  his  spirit  would 
feed.  After  the  grave  was  closed,  the  relatives  feasted 
on  a  kettle  of  boiled  pork  and  *'  dough-hoys^'^  that  is, 
pieces  of  dough  boiled  with  the  pork — a  rare  treat 
among  the  wild  Indians.  They  were  thus,  as  they 
supposed,  feasting  with  their  departed  brother.  They 
often  place  tobacco  at  the  head  of  their  graves,  to 
serve  for  the  departed.  How  gloomy  such  a  burial ! 
Is  it  wonderful  that  heathen  Indians  blacken  their 
fiiccs  for  the  dead,  and  often  spend  hours  of  incon- 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  95 

solable  grief  over  the  graves  of  their  deceased  friends ! 
Their  grief  is  that  of  frenzy  and  despair.  iV^o  Christ, 
no  liope  in  death ! 

\  RETURN. 

After  much  dehay  the  payment  was  made,  and  wo 
took  our  departure  August  29th.  It  was  not  con- 
venient to  return  in  the  canoe  with  our  Indians,  on 
account  of  the  goods,  provisions,  etc.,  they  had  to 
carry.  Brother  Marksman  and  his  wife,  who  had 
preceded  us  to  La  Pointe,  and  myself,  took  passage 
on  the  Algonquin,  which  was  to  take  us  directly  to 
Copper  Harbor,  where  a  trader  was  to  wait  for  us 
with  his  canoe,  and  take  us  to  L'Anse.  Contrary 
to  agreement,  and  to  the  great  disappointment  of 
several  traders  aboard,  the  captain  steered  directly 
for  Isle  Royal,  to  pick  up  some  miners,  who  wished 
a  passage  down.  We  were  becalmed,  and  did  not 
reach  the  island  till  Monday  morning,  when  we  ran 
into  the  delightful  harbor,  called  Rock  Harbor.  Drop- 
ping down  about  three  miles  to  an  old  fishing  post, 
we  were  disappointed  again  to  find,  by  a  card  left, 
that  the  miners  were  on  the  opposite  side.  A  gun 
was  fired,  which  they  heard,  and  they  reached  us  just 
before  dark.  We  had  the  day  to  hunt  agates,  and 
stroll  among  the  wild  scenery.  Here  we  were  forced 
to  lay  -all  night,  and  till  one  o'clock  the  next  day, 
before  we  cleared  the  Harbor.  We  were  then  favored 
with  a  good  wind,  which  brought  us  into  Copper 
Harbor  Tuesday,  about  midnight. 


98  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

Landing  in  the  morning,  "vv'e  learned  that  the  trader, 
who  was  to  take  us  home,  became  tired  waiting,  and 
left  us.  "We  were  now  in  a  fix,  mostly  among  entire 
strangers,  our  money  nearly  spent,  and,  to  human 
appearance,  no  way  to  reach  home,  seventy-five  miles 
distant.  After  taking  breakfast  at  a  boarding  house, 
and  before  taking  any  step,  I  retired  to  the  woods 
and  spread  out  our  case  before  the  Lord,  and  returned 
fully  assured  that  some  relief  would  be  afforded  us 
in  our  trying  situation.  We  looked  about  and  found 
a  small  canoe,  for  which  the  owner  asked  us  twelve 
dollars.  It  was  too  much,  but  we  did  not  know  any 
better  course  to  pursue,  and  bought  it.  Having 
learned  something  about  our  disappointment,  he  came 
afterward  and  refunded  two  dollars.  A  Mr.  Hopkins, 
who  was,  probably,  at  the  head  of  this  movement, 
gave  us  two  dollars.  Mr.  M.  gave  us  one  dollar,  and 
some  pork  for  our  journey ;  and  two  merchants, 
Messrs.  Barbeau  and  Chapman,  gave  us  a  bag  of  hard 
bread,  worth  about  three  dollars.  We  fell  in  with 
the  lamented  Dr.  Houghton,  who  kindly  furnished 
us  with  a  tent.  Thus  were  all  our  w^ants  met  by  a 
merciful  Providence. 

Copper  Harbor  was,  at  that  time,  the  central  point 
of  attraction  for  all  concerned  in  the  mines,  which 
had  just  begun  to  excite  attention.  The  shore,  all 
about  the  Harbor,  was  lined  with  tents,  and  every 
thing  was  on  the  move  as  if  the  people  were  driving 
on  to  a  speedy  fortune. 

We  were  detained  here,  in   our  camp,  till  Thurs- 


MISSIONARY   LIFE  99 

day  afternoon.  The  wind  blew  a  gale  most  of  tlio 
time,  and  the  Lake  was  all  agitation.  We  left  the 
Harbor  in  our  frail  bark  attached  by  a  rope  to  the 
laro-e  boat  of  Dr.  Hou<]i;hton.  The  breakers  were 
rolling  in,  angrily,  when  we  left,  and  it  was  not  with- 
out risk  of  running  under  that  we  had  to  resort  to 
this  expedient.  The  Doctor  would  have  given  us  a 
place  in  his  boat,  but  his  own  lading  was  sufficiently 
heavy.  After  passing  fairly  out  of  the  Harbor  we 
were  in  little  danger,  and,  with  a  fine  breeze,  soon 
reached  the  end  of  Point  Kewenaw.  Rounding  the 
Point  we  came  into  smooth  water,  and  dropped  loose 
from  the  Doctor's  boat.  He  stopped  with  his  men, 
and  we  kept  on  till  some  time  after  dark,  when  we 
reached  the  opposite  shore  of  Bate  clu  Gris,  com- 
monly called  Bay  Degree.  Here  we  camped  in  com- 
pany with  some  Indians,  who  had  left  Copper  Harbor 
before  us.  The  tent  we  had  left  with  the  Doctor. 
Here  we  ate  our  homely  meal,  and,  as  was  our  uniform 
custom,  sung  and  prayed,  and  laid  us  down,  under 
the  open  canopy  of  heaven,  and  slept  sweetly  till  the 
dawn  of  day.  The  morning  light  was  saluted  also 
with  the  voice  of  prayer  and  praise.  We  craved  the 
watchful  care  of  God  over  us,  exposed,  as  we  were, 
to  the  perils  of  the  deep.  And  the  day  had  not 
passed  before  we  saw  our  need  of  this.  Early  in  the 
day  we  met  a  canoe  from  home,  which  had  been 
dispatched  to  look  after  us.  Finding  that  we  were 
all  "right  side  up  with  care,"  Mr.  B.  went  on  to  Cop- 
per Harbor  on  his   own  business.     When  the  wind 


100  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

would  allow  we  carried  a  small  sail,  such  as  our  craft 
could  bear,  and  sailing  some,  and  using  tlie  paddles 
briskly,  ^'e  proceeded  very  well  till  toward  night, 
when  a  fine  breeze  sprung  up,  which  was  bearing  us 
along  nicely.  But  gradually  it  gathered  strength, 
and  now  the  w^hite  caps  began  to  appear,  and  wave 
succeeded  wave,  till  the  scene  about  us  looked  fright- 
ful. A  short  distance  before  us  was  a  point,  and  on 
from  that,  for  a  distance  of  about  eight  miles,  was  a 
hicrh  wall  of  rocks,  where  we  could  not  have  landed. 
As  night  was  approaching  it  added  to  the  risk  of  any 
attempt  to  pass  them.  About  a  mile  to  our  right  was 
a  beautiful  sand-beach,  but  a  terrible  sea  was  rolling 
in  to  the  shore.  A  moment  was  spent  in  deciding 
what  to  do.  AYe  agreed  that  our  only  hope  was  to 
try  to  land.  Marskman  had  the  stern  of  the  canoe, 
and  I  managed  the  bow.  We  wheeled  for  the  shore, 
meanwhile  throwing  off  our  coats,  shoes,  and  stock- 
ings, to  be  ready  to  spring  into  the  water  before  the 
canoe  should  strike.  The  steersman  was  to  give  the 
word  of  command.  As  we  approached  the  shore  we 
paddled  with  all  our  might  to  ridQ  in  upon  one  of 
the  huge  waves.  Just  now  said  Marksman,  "make 
ready."  No  sooner  said  than  I  found  myself  on  my 
feet,  firmly  grasping  the  bow  of  the  canoe.  In  an 
instant  he  was  out  at  the  stern,  and  taking  advantage 
of  the  wave,  we  ran  her  as  high  as  possible  on  the 
beach.  Now  a  large  swell  broke  over  the  stern,  but 
doing  us  little  damage.  With  the  utmost  dispatch 
we  had  every  thing  safely  landed.     Our  feelings  of 


MISSIOXxVRY   LIFE.  101 

thankfulness  may  be  more  easily  imagined  than  ex- 
pressed. We  kindled  a  fire,  and,  as  it  had  com- 
menced to  rain,  constructed  a  tent  out  of  our  sail  and 
a  coverlet.  Then  singing  a  hymn  of  praise,  we  im- 
plored God's  blessing  upon  us,  and  'were  drawn  out 
especially  in  behalf  of  the  Indians  we  had  camped 
with  the  night  before.  Having  a  larger  craft  they 
put  out  further  to  sea,  and  the  storm  was  now  ahead 
for  them.  The  night  was  dark  and  rainy,  and  much 
doubt  hung  over  their  prospect;  so  we  worked  about 
half  of  the  night,  to  keep  up  a  bright  fire  to  serve  as 
a  beacon.  It  is  enough  to  say  that  they  found  a 
shelter  from  the  storm,  and  reached  home  in  safety. 
We  rested  but  little  that  night — the  howling  of  the 
wind — the  roaring  of  the  lake — the  chilliness  of  the 
atmosphere — the  thought  of  home — the  uneasiness 
of  my  dear  wife  and  daughter,  all  conduced  more  to 
reflection  and  prayer  than  to  sleep.  Saturday  the 
wind  was  in  the  east,  and  a  heavy  sea  continued  to 
set  in  to  the  bay.  The  following  was  penned  on  the 
spot : 

"Unless  the  tempest  should  soon  subside  we  shall 
not  reach  home  this  week.  Blessed  be  God,  I  trust 
that  this  journey,  which  has  been  adverse  at  almost 
every  turn  since  I  left  La  Pointe,  has  taught  me 
many  important  lessons.  I  have  seen  the  hand  of 
God  strikingly  exhibited  in  several  instances.  My 
soul  is  fixed  trusting  in  the  Lord.  I  will  not  fear 
though  the  sea  roar,  and  the  mountains  shake,  with 
the  swelling  thereof.'' 


102  LIGHTS    AND   SHADES   OF 

After  noon  the  lake  measurably  calmed  down,  and 
we  might  have  gone  on,  but  for  the  heavy  breakers 
which  still  rolled  up  against  the  shore.  We  made  an 
ineffectual  attempt  to  get  off.  Pushing  the  canoe  to 
the  water's  edge,  we  put  in  our  things,  shoving  it  out 
gradually  as  far  as  we  dared.  We  stood  in  water 
about  half  an  hour  watching  a  favorable  swell.  At 
length  we  shoved  off,  but  wxre  met  about  as  soon 
with  a  huge  wave,  which  broke  over  the  canoe,  filling 
the  bow  half  full,  submerging  a  box  of  Indian  Testa- 
ments and  badly  wetting  our  things.  We  were  now 
in  danger  of  losing  the  canoe,  as  from  its  weight  it 
was  unmanageable.  But  making  fast  to  a  tree  by 
means  of  a  rope,  we  got  out  our  effects  and  secured 
the  canoe.  Making  ourselves  as  comfortable  as  we 
could,  we  were  compelled  to  wait  more  favorable 
auspices. 

We  arose  early  the  next  morning  to  hail  the  light  of 
a  lovely  Sabbath.  What  should  w^e  do?  Our  bread 
had  become  damp  and  musty.  Our  other  provisions 
were  nearly  exhausted.  Our  situati(5n  was  very  un- 
comfortable. With  our  small  canoe  we  could  not  go 
when  it  was  rough,  and  should  we  neglect  the  present 
opportunity,  we  might  have  to  stay  for  days  on  that 
dreary  shore,  when  a  few  hours  would  take  us  home. 
We  thought  of  the  anxious  suspense  of  our  friends, 
to  know  what  had  become  of  us.  These  and  other 
similar  reasons  led  us  to  think  that  it  was  our  duty 
to  go,  especially  in  the  light  of  Christ's  declaration 
respecting  the  observance  of  the   Sabbath:    ''I  will 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  108 

have  mercy  and  not  sacrifice."  We  therefore  coasted 
leisurely  along  on  the  placid  lake,  till  Tve  came  -within 
about  six  miles  of  home,  Tvhen  Tve  caught  a  favorable 
breeze,  ^hich  soon  bore  us  across  to  the  mission, 
Tvhere  we  landed  a  little  afternoon — finding  all  well 
and  rejoicing  in  God  at  our  deliverance  from  the 
perils  of  the  deep. 


10-1  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 


CHAPTER   YI. 

SECOXD  YEAR   AT    THE    KEWAWEXOX   MISSION 

The  conference,  wliicli  had  recently  been  in  ses- 
sion, saAv  fit  to  continue  us  at  tliis  station.  "We  sliall 
aim  to  group  together  what  is  worthy  of  notice  during 
this  year,  in  as  brief  a  manner  as  possible.  Our  work 
was  mostly  at  home,  and  therefore  was  more  monot- 
onous than  s©me  other  periods  of  our  connection  with 
the  missions. 

The  summer  before  we  had  succeeded  in  raising  a 
good  crop  of  vegetables.  Several  days  were  spent  in 
digging  and  taking  care  of  our  potato  crop.  "We  had 
not  only  enough  for  our  own  use  but  a  surplus. 
Those  I  took  in  a  large  batteau  to  the  Eagle  River 
mine,  where  I  was  paid  for  them,  in  gold,  about  forty- 
five  dollars.  This  was  the  first  surplus  the  mission 
had  produced.  The  avails  greatly  aided  us  in  our 
work.  The  batteau  had  been  sold  by  a  Mr.  B.  to  the 
Mining  Company,  and  was  to  be  left  at  Eagle  river. 
We  took  a  small  bark  canoe  in  tow,  to  return  home 
with.  The  tour  was  the  shortest  and  most  successful 
coasting-trip  I  ever  made.  W^e  reached  Eagle  river, 
via  Kewenaw  Point,  in  a  little  more  than  two  days 
and  a  half»  The  same  afternoon  we  disposed  of  our 
vegetables,  unloaded  the  batteau,  gummed  our  canoe, 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  10;) 

and  by  dark  were  ready  to  start  for  home.  I  was 
dubbed  captain,  for  tlie  first  time,  by  the  receiver 
of  our  cargo.  I  had  an  interview  here  with  the  hite 
himented  Dr.  Houghton,  and  passed  that  night — 
Fnelay — in  our  frail  bark  over  the  spot  where  he  was 
drowned,  in  a  terrible  gale,  the  Monday  night  fol- 
lowing. The  Lake  was  calm,  and  we  reached  the 
Portage,  twenty-five  miles,  by  midnight.  The  next 
night,  by  ten  o'clock,  we  reached  the  mission  in 
safety.  The  whole  journey,  a  distance  of  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-five  miles,  was  performed  within 
four  days. 

We  were  embarrassed,  during  the  fall  and  winter, 
by  the  serious  illness  of  brother  Marksman,  by  which 
he  was  laid  aside  from  the  work.^^  This  threw  the 
school  on  my  hands,  in  addition  to  the  onerous  duties 
which  already  claimed  my  attention.  And  till  the 
middle  of  December  we  had  no  regular  interpreter. 
In  this  interim  we  had  to  depend  mostly  on  two 
females,  who  spoke  both  languages  well,  and  rendered 
us  good  service.  G.  Bedell  arrived  from  a  more  dis- 
tant station  the  13th  of  December,  and  was  hired 
to  interpret  the  rest  of  the  winter.  With  our  limited 
help  we  endeavored  to  have  all  the  interests  of  the 
mission  cared  for  to  the  best  of  our  ability.  The 
day  school  and  Sunday  school  were  kept  up,  except 


*  Toward  spring  sister  llarksman  was  brought  to  the  confines  of  the 
grave  by  a  most  painful  affliction.  It  was  a  time  of  fiery  trial  to  brother 
JI.  and  liis  family.     But  they  found  their  help  in  God. 


306  L  I  G II T  S  A  N  D  S  U  A  D  E  S  0  F 

in  absence  of  the  scliolars  for  sugar-making.  Eut, 
as  there  was  little  change  in  the  inhabitants,  our 
schools  were  made  up  of  nearly  the  same  scholars 
as  the  year  before,  and  the  description  before  given 
may  suffice. 

Our  religious  meetings  were  attended  with  many 
discouragements,  as  well  as  our  educational  interests — 
perhaps  not  proportionately  more  than  among  our 
own  people.  Our  native  population  at  the  mission 
was  less  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  souls,  including 
children.  Most  of  the  adult  population  had,  at  some 
time,  professed  religion.  Backsliding  is  a  sin  among 
Indians  as  well  as  among  white  people.  Take  a 
community  of  the  same  size  and  character,  relig- 
iously, among  white  people,  and  then  ask,  would  it  be 
reasonable  to  expect  sweeping  revivals  of  religion  from 
year  to  year,  in  which  scores  would  crowd  the  altar 
as  penitents,  and  go  on  their  way  rejoicing  as  new 
converts?  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  in  a  community 
of  hundreds  of  white  people  for  the  Church  to  have 
only  an  occasional  revival.  Spiritual  declension  is 
by  no  means  a  rare  thing.  I  speak  of  this  not  to 
justify  want  of  revival  in  either  case;  but,  simply,  as 
an  existing  fact  in  both  cases,  and  no  less  notorious 
among  whites  than  Indians.  It  is  a  false  view  of 
this  very  thing  which  operates  to  the  prejudice  of 
our  Indian  missions.  Many  are  wont  to  expect  re- 
sults, which  will  tally  with  successful  efforts  in  a 
dense  population,  where  no  hinderance  is  placed  in 
the  way  by  a  strange  language.    The  question,  whether 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  107 

we  ought  to  abandon  such  posts  because  of  the  pau- 
city of  numbers,  is  another  thing,  which  I  shall  not 
stop  here  to  answer.  All  we  ask  is,  that,  as  long 
as  the  Church,  in  her  wisdom,  shall  think  best  to 
cultivate  such  ground,  our  people  should  not  look 
despairingly  at  the  results  so  long  as  they  equal  those 
among  the  same  number  of  white  people.  But  we 
were  not  left  without  witness  that  God  was  with  us. 
The  Church  was  often  quickened,  backsliders  were 
occasionally  reclaimed,  and,  in  some  instances,  we 
were  enabled  to  rejoice  in  the  conversion  of  sinners. 
The  following  was  noted  December  8th :  "  After 
mentioning  some  of  our  discouragements,  on  account 
of  brother  Marksman's  illness,  etc.,  I  was  led  to  say, 
Olan's  extremity  is  often  God's  opportunity.'  In 
the  midst  of  all  these  discouragements  he  has  been 
pleased  to  visit  and  bless  us.  Our  meetings  among 
the  Indians  have  never  been  so  interesting  since  I 
came  here,  as  for  some  time  past.  A  week  ago  last 
Sabbath  was  our  communion  season,  and  a  more  melt- 
ing time  I  have  never  witnessed  any  where.  ^ly 
own  soul  was  so  peculiarly  drawn  out  in  behalf  of 
the  Indians,  as  seemed  to  dissolve  me  in  tears.  jNIy 
interpretress  became  so  deeply  affected  that  she  had 
to  make  occasional  pauses  to  give  vent  to  tears.  A 
divine  influence  seemed  to  pervade  the  house,  so  that 
nearly  the  whole  congregation  were  melted  into  ten- 
derness. So  far  as  I  was  concerned  it  was  not  merely 
the  effect  of  the  nfoment,  but,  for  some  time  before, 
1   had   communed   intimately  with    God   in    secret." 


108  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

At  night  of  the  same  day  a  backslider  was  rech\imed 
and  united  asrain  on  trial.     Confession  was  also  made 

o 

by  others  who  had  been  in  a  backslidden  state,  whu 
expressed  a  determination  to  lead  a  new  life. 

The  next  Sabbath  I  took  for  my  text,  '^  Therefore 
ivill  the  Lord  loait  that  he  may  he  gracious."  Our 
meeting  was  very  similar  to  those  of  the  preceding 
Sabbath.  The  Church  was  evidently  rising  to  new- 
ness of  spiritual  life. 

Christmas  eve  was,  with  us,  a  season  owned  of  God. 
AYe  had  our  house  neatly  trimmed  with  evergreens 
furnished  to  hand  in  such  abundance,  and  well  lighted. 
The  meeting  was  attended  by  our  own  and  some  of 
the  Catholic  Indians.  We  met  again  the  next  day 
and  had  public  worship,  and  baptized  two  children. 

December  27.  After  laboring  hard  all  day  with 
my  hands,  I  visited,  at  night,  eight  families.  I  found, 
in  conversation  with  them,  that,  for  a  time,  most  of 
them  had  been  in  a  low  state  of  religion,  but  that, 
in  most  cases,  of  late,  they  had  been  making  renewed 
eiforts  to  love  and  serve  God.  Two  or  three  spoke 
of  having  the  load  of  sorrow  removed  from  their 
hearts,  which  were  now  filled  with  peace  and  joy. 
Some  who  were  not  yet  brought  into  this  liberty 
expressed  a  determination  to  continue  seeking.  I 
was  rejoiced  to  find,  in  the  midst  of  much  back- 
sliding, a  hungering  and  thirsting  after  righteousness. 

We  held  a  watch  meeting  New-Year's  eve  as  usual, 
which  was  well  attended  and  blessed  to  those  present. 
Two  backsliders  expressed  a  determination  to  return 


I 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  109 

again  to  their  Father's  house,  and  most  of  the  pro- 
fessors renewed  their  covenant  with  God.  After  the 
meeting  was  dismissed  a  young  man  desired  to  speak 
with  me.  He  was  so  deeply  affected  that  he  could 
scarcely  speak  for  sobs  and  tears.  He  stated  that 
he  had  been  reminded  of  his  unfaithfulness  the  past 
year.  He  was  troubled  on  that  account.  But  the 
uord  had  been  near  him  during  the  watch  meeting, 
and  he  was  resolved  to  serve  God  better  for  the  future. 

Just  as  we  were  about  leaving  the  house  a  person 
came  to  tell  me  that  my  daughter  was  quite  ill.  On 
returning  to  the  house  I  found  her  severely  attacked 
with  croup.  Losing  the  best  means  at  command  we 
were  thankful  to  see  her  soon  convalescent. 

In  one  of  our  meetings  about  this  time,  the  chief, 
David  King,  arose,  so  deeply  affected  that  he  could 
say  but  few  words  at  a  time.  Among  other  things 
he  said,  that  ''  while  he  was  talking  with  his  family 
in  the  morning,  and  telling  them  how  they  should 
live,  he  thought  of  his  brethren,  some  of  whom  were 
cold  in  their  hearts.  This  overpowered  him.  He 
sung  and  prayed,  and  now  exhorted  his  brethren  to 
be  more  faithful."  While  he  spoke  I  saw  some  others 
we^cping  freely.  The  Indians  are  taught  to  believe 
that  it  is  the  greatest  weakness  for  a  man  to  weep. 
Nothing  but  the  love  of  Jesus  can  open  the  fountain 
of  tears.  In  their  heathen  state  they  can  look  on, 
apparently  with  stoical  indifference,  when  their  dear- 
est friends,  are  torn  from  them  by  death.  They  often 
have  deep  feelings  bordering  on  despair,  but  it  would 


110  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

be  unmanly  to  betray  them.  To  -R-eep  would  be  to 
act  like  women.  But  the  strong  man  armed  is  brought 
to  bow,  and  the  adamantine  heart  to  melt,  under  the 
power  of  the  cross. 

As  we  were  about  leaving  the  house  of  prayer  we 
witnessed  a  scene  in  striking  contrast  with  the  one 
just  mentioned.  Several  white  men  in  a  boat  came 
to  the  shore,  singing  the  song  called  "The  Flowing 
Bowl,"  anil  hallooing  at  the  top  of  their  voice,  evi- 
dently influenced  by  liquor.  They  appeared  perfectly 
reckless  of  all  order  and  decency.  They  went  from 
house  to  house  with  their  jug,  but  found  no  one  to 
drink  with  them.  Even  our  Indians  despised  them, 
and  they  soon  left  for  the  settlement  across  the  Bay. 

The  4th  of  January  was  our  communion  day.  It 
was  an  occasion  of  much  interest.  Christ  was  pres- 
ent to  bless  in  our  love-feast.  Thirteen,  princi- 
pally youth  from  ten  to  sixteen  years  of  age,  united 
with  the  Church  on  trial,  most  of  them  as  seekers. 
The  scene  was  delightful  and  truly  afi'ecting,  to  see 
those  childi-en  give  their  hand  to  the  Church  while 
tears  trickled  down  their  cheeks.  Among  the  parents 
and  older  membera  of  the  Church,  some  were  over- 
come with  joyful  emotions,  and  others  were  agonizing 
for  a  blessing.  Two  of  those  who  joined  us  had  been 
members  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  one  a  mem- 
ber that  they  prized  highly.  In  the  afternoon  1 
baptized  a  young  man,  who  had  also  been  a  Papist; 
he  united  with  our  Church  on  trial.  At  night  we 
had  a  manifest  display  of  the  power  and  mercy  of 


MISSIOJ^ARY   LIFE.  Hi 

God.  At  an  invitation  for  persons  cold  in  religion 
and  seekers  to  come  for^vard,  two  benches  were  soon 
filled.  As  they  earner  to  the  seats  prepared,  they 
fell  upon  their  knees,  and  eUch  seemed  deeply  en- 
ffao;ed  for  himself.  There  was  some  noise,  but  no 
extravagance.  The  agonizing  sigh  and  groan  were 
heard  to  escape  the  burdened  heart;  the  prayer  of 
the  believer  mingled  with  that  of  the  penitent  seeker ; 
an  occasional  burst  of  praise  was  heard,  and  at  times 
the  hearty  amen^  which  seemed  to  speak  from  the 
heart,  ^' Lord,  even  so  let  it  he''\  One,  at  least,  of  the 
seekers  obtained  pardon,  and  we  had  reason  to  believe 
that  several  cold  professors  were  reclaimed  from  their 
backslidings. 

FIERY   TRIALS. 

Not  long  after  those  precious  showers  of  grace 
our  spiritual  horizon  was  overcast  with  dark  and 
threatening  clouds.  Almost  every  thing  had  changed 
as  it  respected  the  little  company  of  white  members 
who  had  enjoyed  such  refreshings  from  the  presence 
of  God  the  previous  year.  One  of  those  brethren 
Iiad  removed  to  Pittsburg.  The  farmer  and  his  wife, 
who  had  been  such  a  help  to  us,  had  left.  His  suc- 
cessor made  no  pretensions  to  religion.  A  most  un- 
happy difficulty  arose  among  several  of  the  white 
residents,  involving  two  members  of  the  Church,  and 
resulted  in  the  expulsion  of  one  and  the  withdrawal 
of  the  other  from  the  Church.  The  dispute  was  so 
connected  with  the  affairs  of  the  Indians  as  to  involve 


312  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

them  also.  For  a  time  it  reallj  seemed  as  if  the 
powers  of  darkness  would  prevail.  These  were  to 
us  hours  of  sadness.  Our  faith  in  God  was  put  to 
the  severest  test.  But  the  cloud  at  length  passed 
over,  and  the  bright  Sun  of  righteousness  again  shone 
upon  us. 

In  the  earlj  part  of  the  summer  the  society  was 
arranged  in  three  classes — one  a  juvenile  class,  con- 
sisting of  those  who  had  recently  united  with  the 
Church.     I  took  charge  of  this  class  as  leader. 

The  following  facts  were  noted  as  occurring  on 
Friday,  July  10th.  It  was  observed  as  a  day  of 
fasting  and  prayer,  preparatory  to  our  communion. 
We  met  at  five  o'clock,  A.  M.,  for  prayer  meeting. 
Had  a  general  attendance  and 'a  good  meeting.  In 
the  evening  I  met  the  juvenile  class,  most  of  whose 
members  joined  the  Church  last  winter.  There  were 
ten  present,  and  I  was  glad  to  find  them  all  enter- 
taining a  hope  of  heaven  and  a  determination  to  live 
a  Christian  life. 

I  have  been  thus  particular  to  show  that,  with  all 
the  difficulties  and  discouragements  we  had  to  meet, 
we  were  still  enabled  to  say,  "The  best  of  all  is,  God 
is  with  us." 

TRAVELS. 

Though  my  work  was  mostly  confined  to  Kewa- 
wenon,  I  traveled  some  during  the  3^ear.  Some  ac- 
count of  a  trip  made  on  snow-shoes  must  suffice. 
It  was  in  some  respects  one  of  the  most  laborious 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  113 

and  painful  journeys  of  my  life.  On  the  Gtli  of 
January  I  left  the  mission,  accompanied  by  two  able- 
bodied  Indians,  to  visit  a  band  of  Indians  at  Grand 
Island,  a  distance  of  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles. 
The  chief  Moiiomonee  and  his  family  had  embraced 
religion  and  united  with  our  Church  under  the  labors 
of  Rev.  George  W.  Brown.  They  belonged  properly 
to  the  mission  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  but  were  farther 
from  that  station  than  from  us,  and  were  thus  mostly 
deprived  of  the  labors  of  a  Christian  pastor.  The 
Catholic  priest  told  some  of  our  Indians  that  he  had 
received  an  invitation  from  Monomonee  to  come  and 
Christianize  those  Indians.  I  doubted  the  correct- 
ness of  the  report;  but,  as  I  was  informed  that  the 
priest  was  intending  to  go  immediately  to  Grand 
Island  to  accomplish  this  end,  and  was  prepared  to 
make  the  Indians  liberal  offers,  if  they  would  consent 
to  settle  near  his  mission  and  become  Catholics,  I 
felt  it  my  duty  to  go  before  him,  and,  with  the  help 
of  God,  defeat  his  proselyting  attempts.  The  desired 
end  was  accomplished.  The  priest  followed  me,  and 
made  but  a  brief  stay  with  the  Indians.  Years  after 
this  I  was  permitted  to  see  the  chief  and  his  family 
settled  with  our  Indians  at  Naomikong,  firmly  at- 
tached to  Protestant  Christianity,  and  constant  wor- 
shipers with  us. 

OUTFIT. 

Our    outfit   for   this   journey   consisted   of   snow- 
shoes,  two  small  axes,  a  gun,  a  cedar  snow-shovel  to 


114  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

clear  away  snow  for  our  encampment,  a  small  sail  to 
stretch  over  our  camp  for  covering,  blankets,  about 
sixty  pounds  of  provisions — mostly  pork  and  flour, 
tea,  coffee,  sugar,  etc. — a  camp -kettle,  frying-pan, 
tin-cups,  etc.  This  load  was  all  carried  by  my  guides 
except  my  two  blankets,  Bible,  hymn-book,  etc.,  which 
made  up  my  pack.  We  had  no  dog-train — an  article 
seldom  used  in  that  region. 

Our  journey  led  mostly  through  a  dense  forest, 
with  not  even  a  trail,  and  little  to  guide  us,  except 
some  indistinct  marks  recognized  only  by  Indians. 
Sometimes  we  crossed  a  chain  of  little  lakes,  and 
occasionally  we  clambered  along  the  rocky  shore  of 
Lake  Superior,  and  then  made  the  deiour  of  deep 
bays,  over  a  sandy  and  less  rugged  shore.  We  forced 
our  way  through  several  cedar  swamps,  where  we  had 
often  either  to  climb  over  or  creep  under  fallen  brush 
and  timber.  We  usually  traveled  from  twenty  to 
thirty-five  miles  a  day;  once  about  forty  miles.  At 
noon  we  stopped  just  long  enough  to  take  a  cold 
lunch,  near  some  place  where  we  could  obtain  water, 
and  then  we  continued  our  march  till  after  sundown. 
The  last  day  on  our  way  down  we  traveled  till  mid- 
night by  the  light  of  the  moon.  Our  labor  was  by 
no  means  ended  when  we  stopped  for  the  night.  The 
snow,  two  to  three  feet  deep,  must  be  shoveled  away 
to  make  a  place  for  our  camp;  boughs  must  be  cut 
and  spread  down  to  serve  the  double  purpose  of  floor 
and  bed;  wood  must  be  chopped  to  keep  a  good  fire 
all  night— and,  if  very  cold,  we  usually  burnt  a  huge 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  115 

pile.  Next  our  supper  must  be  prepared.  It  was 
generally  nine  or  ten  o'clock  before  Ave  -were  ready 
to  wrap  up  in  our  blankets  and  give  our  eyes  to 
sleep.  The  next  morning  we  must  be  up  at  four 
or  five  o'clock,  cook  our  breakfast,  and  perform  the 
same  arduous  toil. 

On  the  evening  of  the  fourth  day  we  reached 
Carp  river,  near  tUp  now  flourishing  town  of  Mar- 
quette. Here  was  then  one  solitary  wigwam,  occu- 
pied by  an  Indian  family.  I  had  worn  my  mocca- 
sins through;  my  feet  were  both  badly  blistered, 
and  my  limbs  so  wearied  that  I  could  scarcely  di-ag 
my  snow-shoes  along.  The  sight  of  a  human  hab- 
itation, though  but  an  Indian  lodge,  gave  me  such 
joy  that  I  was  involuntarily  moved  to  tears.  Here 
we  were  warmly  received.  One  of  the  men  had  just 
taken  a  deer.  Blah-je-ge-zhik'' s  wife  made  us  a  warm 
cake,  cooked  venison  and  some  potatoes,  and  made 
us  a  dish  of  tea — all  neatly  and  well  served,  and 
which  had  a  relish  not  common  at  sumptuous  feasts. 
Our  hostess  then  dried  and  mended  my  moccasins, 
and  seemed  to  take  pleasure  in  doing  all  she  could 
to  minister  to  our  wants.  The  next  day  was  Sat- 
urday. AYe  reached  the  Island,  by  traveling  forty 
miles,  about  midnight.  This  hard  day's  work  was 
too  much  for  me,  and  I  was  quite  unwell  during  the 
Sabbath.*     I  remained  at   the   Island  till   Tuesday 

*  Sunday  afternoon  w^  crossed  over  the  Bay,  and  staid  for  tbo  night 
with  Mr.  William?,  of  whom  wo  purchased  provisions  tho  next  morning 
for  our  return  voyage. 


116  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

noon,  held  several  meetings  -with  the  Indians,  and 
found  them  in  a  low  state  of  religion;  but  they  made 
new  vows  to  lead  a  more  devoted  Christian  life.  We 
were  kindly  received,  and  they  professed  unwavering 
attachment  to  our  Church.  I  gave  them  a  copy  of 
St.  John's  Gospel  and  a  hymn-book — both  in  the 
Ojibwa  language — exhorted  them  to  faithfulness,  and 
set  out  for  Kewawenon. 

By  the  severe  exercise  on  the  way  down  I  had 
lamed  my  ankle.  It  was  what  the  Indians  call  snow- 
shoe-lameness,  arising  from  overstraining  of  the  ten- 
dons. It  is  very  painful  when  the  limb  must  be 
exercised,  and  permanent  relief  can  hardly  be  obtained 
only  by  rest  from  the  labor  that  causes  it.  We  had 
traveled  only  a  few  miles  when  I  had  not  strength  in 
my  ankle  to  carry  the  snow-shoe,  and  yet  could  not 
walk  without.  In  this  emergency  I  tied  a  string  to 
the  fore-end  of  the  snow-shoe,  which  at  every  step  I 
raised  with  the  left  hand.  A  hard  way  to  walk,  but 
it  must  be  that  or  nothing.  The  next  morning,  after 
going  about  five  miles,  I  was  compelled  to  stop.  We 
had  scarcely  made  our  camp  before  the  priest  passed 
us  on  his  way  down.  I  had  a  short  interview  with 
him,  and  told  him  that  the  Indians  had  not  sent  for 
him.  He  was  resolved  to  go  on  and  see  them,  which 
was  his  privilege.  Here  I  went  through  a  course  of 
Indian  treatment.  My  ankle  was  lacerated  with  a 
sharp  flint,  and  rubbed  with  liniment.  I  was  some- 
what relieved  the  next  morning,  and  we  were  off  by 
five    o'clock.      We   followed   the   priest's   track,    by 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  117 

moonlight,  till  the  day  dawned.  After  the  first  two 
or  three  hours  of  each  day  I  could  walk  only  by  aid 
of  the  string  as  before.  Thursday  we  made  about 
twenty-five  miles ;  Friday  about  thirty ;  my  lameness 
abating  but  little.  Saturday  morning  we  were  oiF 
before  day.  One  of  my  men  now  served  me  a  perfect 
Indian  trick.  ^Y.  B.  was  a  great  walker.  Early  in 
the  morning  he  passed  G.  and  me,  and  traveled  that 
day  within  twenty  miles  of  home.  He  went  into  the 
mission  early  on  Sabbath  morning,  and  told  Mrs.  P. 
that  he  had  left  us  about  sixty  miles  ofi" — which  was 
true — that  I  was  so  lame  as  hardly  to  be  able  to 
walk,  and  that  we  were  just  out  of  provisions.  *  The 
impression  was  made  that  we  were  in  a  sad  predica- 
ment, sure  enough. 

Saturday  evening  found  us  about  thirty  miles  from 
our  morning  camp.  Here  we  stopped  early,  and 
chopped  wood  to  last  us  over  the  Sabbath,  and  re- 
solved to  rest  and  await  the  result. 

The  flour  we  procured  of  the  trader  was  sour,  and 
we  had  sour,  heavy  bread  all  the  way,  which  would 
have  been  indigestible  but  for  our  hard  exercise. 
But  this  was  nearly  spent,  and  for  meat  and  drink 
we  were  on  short  allowance.  We  rested  in  our  camp 
till  two  o'clock,  Monday  morning,  when  we  were 
again  feeling  our  way  through  the  forest  by  the  aid 
of  a  bright  moonlight.  By  sunrise  we  had  reached 
Huron  Bay,  having  traveled  over  half  a  day's  march 
on  our  way  down.  About  eight  o'clock  we  met  two 
Indians,  who  had  been  dispatched  with  a  supply  of 


118  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

provisions  for  us.  Short  as  was  our  allowance,  we 
had  still  a  cold  lunch  left,  and  could  have  reached  home 
on  the  strength  of  that.  I  felt  provoked  that  W.  B. 
should  have  occasioned  my  family  and  friends  such 
unnecessary  anxiety  and  trouble.  After  a  wearisome 
forced  march  of  about  thirty-five  miles,  we  reached 
home  by  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  having  traveled  at  least 
two  hundred  and  forty  miles  in  less  than  two  weeks, 
including  all  our  delays.  We  often  have  accounts 
of  the  herculean  labors  performed  by  our  pioneer 
ministers,  who  have  had  to  travel  three  or  four  hun- 
dred miles  on  liorsehach  in  as  many  weeks.  If  our 
northern  missionaries  should  only  relate  their  unvar- 
nished story,  they  might  at  least  claim  to  know  some- 
thing respecting  the  toil  and  sacrifice  of  itinerant 
life,  not  on  horseback,  but  on  foot.  Speaking  from 
experience,  we  must  be  allowed  to  speak  with  a 
degree  of  confidence. 

HANDICRAFT. 

The  missionary  at  so  remote  a  post  must  be  able 
to  adapt  himself  to  almost  any  exigency.  We  had, 
the  previous  fall,  ordered  a  box  of  clothing  from 
Detroit,  including  shoes  for  the  family.  The  box 
came  as  far  as  the  Saut,  and  was  there  detained  all 
winter.  Meanwhile  Mrs.  P.  and  Carrie  were  becom- 
ing almost  destitute  of  shoes.  I  procured  sole-leather 
of  a  neighbor,  cut  uppers  out  of  some  boot-tops,  made 
my  own  lasts,  and,  being  mostly  confined  to  the 
house  with  lameness  for  several  days,  I  made  shoes 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  HQ 

for  my  wife  and  daiigliter,  modeled  after  the  '' latest 
fashion"  of  Lake  Superior. 

During  the  summer  the  country  swarmed  with  sur- 
veyors, geologists,  and  men  of  all  ranks  and  grades, 
in  search  of  fortunes  in  the  minerals  which  just  began 
to  be  developed.  Several  of  the  Indians  were  em- 
ployed as  guides,  packers,  and  voyageurs,  which  ma- 
terially abated  our  forces  at  the  mission.  Three  miles 
from  us,  near  the  head  of  the  Bay,  a  saw-mill  was  in 
process  of  erection — an  improvement  greatly  needed. 
On  the  third  day  of  August  the  first  election  for  the 
town  of  L'Anse  was  held  at  our  school-house.  The 
officers  were  J.  B.,  moderator;  B.  F.  R.,  J.  K.,  and 
A.  W.  D.,  inspectors;  and,  in  their  scarcity  of  ma- 
terial, I  was  chosen  clerk.  Thirty-two  votes  were 
polled.  Most  of  the  voters  came  out  of  the  woods, 
and  returned  after  the  election.  Elections  were  held 
also  at  other  places  in  the  mineral  regions;  but, 
from  some  failure  to  meet  the  requirements  of  law, 
the  elections  were  rendered  null  and  void,  and  the 
country  was  left  again,  as  it  had  been,  literally  with- 
out law. 

At  the  close  of  the  summer  we  left  the  mission  to 
attend  conference,  and  make  some  transient  visits 
among  esteemed  friends  below.  We  coasted  in  open 
boat  to  Copper  Harbor,  thence  were  conveyed  to  the 
Saut  Ste.  Marie  by  the  propeller  Independence,  and 
by  various  public  conveyances  reached  our  friends  in 
Ohio.  After  a  short  stay  we  returned  to  Michigan. 
Mrs.  P.   and   Carrie  remained  with    our  friends    in 


l:^U  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

Adrian,  and  I  proceeded  to  Marsliall,  the  seat  of  our 
conference.  Many  interesting  circumstances  Trere 
connected  with  those  visits,  but  I  must  not  tax  the 
patience  of  the  reader  with  them. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  121 


CHAPTER  YII. 

PERILS    ON    THE    DEEP. 

Having  for  three  years  been  deprived  of  the  priv- 
ilege of  meeting  in  conference,  the  interview  I  had 
enjoyed  vrith  my  ministerial  brethren  was  one  of 
interest  and  profit.  I  was  reappointed  to  the  Kewa- 
wenoil  mission,  with  a  roving  commission  from  Bishop 
Janes  to  explore  the  mining  region,  and  do  what  I 
could  to  establish  religious  worship  among  the  miners. 
Rev.  J.  "W.  Holt  was  appointed  as  my  assistant  to 
teach  the  school,  and  attend  to  the  wants  of  the  mis- 
sion in  my  absence.  Conference  ended,  I  repaired 
to  Adrian,  where  I  was  joined  by  my  family.  Mrs. 
P.'s  father  accompanied  us.  After  a  short  stay  at 
Detroit  we  soon  arrived  at  the  Saut,  via  Mackinaw. 
During  the  several  days  in  which  we  were  detained 
at  the  Saut,  embracing  one  Sabbath,  it  was  our  priv- 
ilege to  enjoy  the  genial  sunlight  of  missionary  life 
with  other  missionaries. 

On  the  morning  of  the  15th  of  October  the  ground 
was  covered  with  snow;  but  as  the  sun  arose  it  soon 
disappeared. 

In  the  afternoon  the  wind  was  fair  for  going  up 
Lake  Superior.  After  dark  we  were  called  on  board 
the  schooner  Fur  Trader.     A  very  rainy  night  en- 


122  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

sued.  We  had  soon  weighed  anchor,  and  were  dis- 
puting our  way  with  the  rapid  current  of  the  St. 
Mary's. 

Friday,  IQtJi,  two  o'docJc,  A.  31.  Strong  wind  driv- 
ing us  at  the  rate  of  ten  knots  per  hour.  All  were 
cheerful  at  the  thought  of  a  quick  trip.  But  how 
illusive  are  some  of  our  most  joyous  hopes!  Liko 
the  mirage,  seen  in  the  distance,  hope  is  only  be- 
gotten to  add  weight  to  disappointment.  We  had 
passed  White  Fish  Point,  fifty  miles  from  the  Saut, 
and  all  was  well.  We  sat  down  in  the  morning  to 
breakfast,  on  homely  sailor  fare.  It  was  about  eight 
o'clock.  No  one  dreamed  of  being  interrupted  before 
breakfast  was  over.  Just  now  one  of  the  sailors  cried 
out,  "  Captain,  it  looks  rather  squally  1'^  No  sooner 
said  than  Captam  R.  dropped  his  knife  and  fork,  and 
was  on  deck.  Order  was  given  to  reef  the  mainsail. 
It  was  promptly  done.  Captain  R.  cried  again,  ''Reef 
the  foresaiV  ''Ay,  ay,  sir.''  And  the  foresail  was 
reefed.  All  interpreted  these  signs  to  have  an  im- 
portant meaning.  At  ten  o'clock  the  storm  had  greatly 
increased;  hard  rain  and  cold  withal.  Wind  had 
hauled  round  more  to  the  north.  At  twelve  the  seas 
ran  very  high,  raging  as  if  some  angBfr  spirit  had 
troubled  the  mighty  deep.  Our  schooner  rose  upon 
the  waves,  and  then  plunged  her  bows  into  the  foam- 
ing deep,  groaning  at  every  plunge. 

She  was  heavily  freighted.  Forward  she  had  on 
a  quantity  of  hay,  a  horse,  and  other  live  stock. 
The  hay  soon  became  filled  with  water,  from  the  seas 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  123 

^vllicll  swept  over  us.  Abaft,  lier  deck  was  stowed 
with  barrels,  two  deep,  even  on  the  top  with  the  rail- 
ing. When  a  hard  squall  struck  her,  it  would  lay  her 
over  "  on  her  heam  ench,'^  and,  much  of  the  time,  the 
upper  tier  of  barrels  on  the  larboard  deck  was  under 
water.  She  consequently  made  bad  weather.  Mean- 
while one  of  the  davits,  or  tackle,  to  hold  up  the  boat, 
gave  way  and  dropped  one  end  of  the  yawl.  Order 
was  given  to  cut  the  boat  loose,  which  was  done,  and 
for  some  time  it  was  towed  with  a  large  rope.  But 
soon  the  rope  broke,  and  now  our  yawl  was  seen 
floating,  bottom  up,  with  the  hay  which  had  just  been 
thrown  overboard.  The  pump  was  kept  in  operation 
most  of  the  time.  Captain  R.,  who  stood  at  the  helm 
all  the  time,  was  in  a  most  exposed  condition ;  some- 
times in  water  up  to  his  knees,  and  then  forced,  with 
the  violence  of  the  waves,  from  side  to  side  of  the 
steerage  deck.  "VYe  were  now  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Grand  Sable,  a  little  east  of  the  Pictured  Rocks, 
about  thirty  miles  from  Grand  Island.  We  had  hoped 
to  reach  the  Island,  where  there  is  a  harbor  secure 
from  all  winds,  but  this  was  now  found  to  be  impossi- 
ble. It  only  remained  for  us  to  be  driven  ashore, 
with  all  the  peril  to  which  this  would  expose  us,  or  to 
make  the  attempt  to  get  back  under  the  lee  of  White 
Fish  Point,  about  fifty^-^'  miles  distant.  The  latter 
alternative  the  Captain  chose.     AYe  luore  ship,  as  the 


*  Tn  mentioning  distances  perfect  accuracy  must  not  be  expected.  In 
the  Repository  this  was  set  down  at  sixty  miles.  The  last  mentioned  is 
probably  nearer  correct. 


124  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

sailors  say,  and  succeeded  in  clearing  the  shore;  and, 
sailing  at  a  rapid  rate,  we  rounded  White  Eish  Point 
in  safety,  and,  getting  into  comparatively  smooth 
"water,  by  ten  o'clock  at  night  ^\e  were  very  much 
rejoiced  to  hear  the  Captain  give  orders  to  let  go 
the  anchor. 

I  have  given  only  a  faint  description  of  the  scene 
without.  If  all  was  storm  vrithout,  all  was  far  from 
being  calm  within.  Most  of  the  crew  and  passengers 
were  iiTeligious,  and  the  voice  of  God,  which  spoke 
amidst  the  warring  elements,  was  not  in  soothing  ac- 
cents to  such  as  were  at  enmity  with  him.  It  was  a 
sober  time  to  all  on  board.  The  most  daring  and  pro- 
fane seemed  awe-struck.  One  man  who  was  not  in 
the  habit  of  praying  in  a  calm,  said  he  "guessed 
there  vrere  none  on  board  but  that  prayed."  Another 
said,  ''I  think  I  shall  not  be  found  at  the  billiard- 
table  very  soon  again."  The  cook,  a  colored  man, 
was  frightened  nearly  out  of  his  wits.  A  female  was 
terribly  alarmed.  "We  shall  all  go  to  the  bottom," 
said  she,  frequently.  Bitterly  did  she  lament  having 
left  a  comfortable  home,  to  suffer  such  hardships  and 

dangers.      "  0,   Mr. ,"  said   she,  "  do   pray   for 

us."  Many  silent  prayers  ascended  to  heaven,  but 
it  was  rather  inconvenient  to  hold  a  public  prayer 
meeting,  when  each  was  so  sick  as  scarcely  to  be  able 
to  hold  up  his  head. 

Our  boat  was  long,  narrow,  and  flat,  setting  at 
defiance  the  symmetry  and  proportion  of  the  ship- 
builder's   art,  but,   withal,  was   an   admirable  sailer. 


MISSIOXARY   LIFE.  125 

Her  cabin,  if  such  it  may  be  called,  was  small — only 
four  berths,  and  not  any  too  neat.  The  table  was 
without  legs,  and  shoved  up  and  down  a  center-post, 
supported  by  a  wooden  pin.  When  not  needed  it  was 
shoved  overhead.  A  small  stove  stood  in  the  cor- 
ner near  the  hatchway.  Such  was  the  boat  into  which 
we  were  crowded.  Two  Indian  girls  had  gained  ad- 
mittance into  one  of  the  berths,  the  others  were 
resigned  to  those  who  had  women  and  children.  The 
floor  as  well  as  the  berths  was  stowed  full.  And 
those  who  could  find  no  room  here,  found  such  ac- 
commodations as  they  could  in  the  hold. 

The  storm  came  on  so  suddenly  that  there  was  not 
time  to  clear  away  the  breakfast  dishes;  these  were 
huddled  down  on  the  floor  by  the  stove.  Scarcely 
had  the  storm  struck  us,  before  the  stove  tumbled, 
bottom  upward,  among  the  breakfast  dishes.  The 
violent  tossings  of  the  boat,  the  scent  of  bilge-water, 
which  escaped  thi'ough  a  hole  in  the  floor,  the  strange 
sights  and  sounds  all  around  us,  gave  every  one  a 
disposition  to  part  with  his  breakfast;  and  a  scene 
ensued  so  ludicrous  as  to  excite  our  risibles  in  the 
midst  of  all  our  peril. 

Our  situation  was  extremely  uncomfortable;  we 
could  have  no  fire,  and  could  not  keep  dry.  AYith  an 
overcoat  on  I  was  wet  throuojhout.  Several  laro:e 
waves  poured  down  upon  us  through  the  hatchway. 
The  large  seas  dashing  against  the  side  of  the  boat, 
forced  water  through  the  berths,  from  one  side  to  the 

other.    "We  were  literally  drenched,  and  became  much 
11 


126  LIGETS  AND   SHADES   OF 

chilled  before  we  could  have  fire  again — not  till  after 
ten  o'clock  at  night.  But  praise  to  an  overruling 
Providence  for  our  rescue  from  the  dangers  to  which 
we  were  exposed!  Several  causes  conduced  to  this 
under  the  blessing  of  a  good  God.  Our  boat  had 
recently  been  fitted  up  with  new  sails ;  about  the  time 
we  began  to  wear  sliip,  the  wind  hauled  about  two 
points  to  westward,  which  enabled  us  to  clear  the 
shore;  but  added  to  these  were  the  self-possession 
and  fidelity  of  Captain  R.  and  his  crew.  They  will 
ever  have  the  gratitude  of  the  passengers  for  their 
conduct  during  this  severe  storm. 

We  lay  at  anchor  till  the  next  morning  after  break- 
fast. Having  lost  our  boat,  it  was  agreed  to  run  back 
to  the  Saut  and  get  another.  Wind  being  in  our 
favor,  we  set  sail  and  dropped  anchor  at  the  head  of 
the  Rapids  just  after  dark.  We  now  landed  and 
walked  through  the  mud  to  Fort  Brady,  a  mile  dis- 
tant, and  put  up  with  the  Chaplain.  All  were  sur- 
prised at  our  speedy  return.  It  vnll  not  be  thought 
very  strange  that,  after  the  perils  and  exposures  on 
the  deep,  just  named,  the  following  day,  which  was 
the  holy  Sabbath,  was  to  us  one  of  the  best  Sabbaths 
of  all  our  life. 

"V\^ile  at  the  Saut,  Captain  B.,  of  another  boat, 
came  aboard,  either  on  business  or  from  curiosity. 
He  had  the  audacity  to  charge  our  mishaps  to  the 
preachers  and  the  women.  He  might  also  have  in- 
cluded the  cats,  for  there  was  one  aboard  during  the 
storm.     He  said  that  he  ''never  knew  it  to  fail — with 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  127 

women  and  preacliers  aboard,  sailors  were  sure  to 
have  storms."  It  seems  that,  since  the  sad  affair  of 
poor  Jonah,  preachers  must  be  made  the  scape-goats, 
to  bear  off  the  sins  of  the  Tars.  Why  the  fair  sex 
should  influence  the  spirit  of  storms  against  our 
friends  of  the  deep,  it  is  hard  to  conceive,  unless  it 
be  for  the  many  long  and  painful  neglects  they  have 
suffered  from  those  who  have  followed  the  sea.  Be 
this  as  it  may,  Mr.  B.  himself,  who  was  a  fearless 
sailor  and  a  daring  sinner,  was  not  proof  against 
storms.  He  was  one  of  the  unfortunate  company 
who  perished  on  the  schooner  Merchant,  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1847. 

After  a  detention  of  another  week  at  the  Saut, 
trudging  back  and  forth  over  the  muddy  Portage, 
now  called  aboard  by  the  captain,  with  a  prospect 
of  fair  wind,  and  then  debarking  in  disappointment, 
really  fearing  that  we  must  winter  at  the  Saut,  we 
left  port  once  more,  and  till  we  landed  at  Grand  Is- 
land encountered  another  storm  but  little  inferior 
to  the  one  above  described.  Nearly  all  the  passengers 
became  desperately  seasick.  The  greatest  sufferers 
were,  perhaps,  my  wife  and  daughter. 

GRAND    ISLAND. 

This  is  a  large  island,  as  its  name  imports,  situated 
near  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  nearly 
midway  from  the  Saut  to  Kewawenon.  The  soil  is 
generally  good.  It  is  well  timbered,  principally  with 
birch,  maple,  and  beech. 


128  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

LIr.  ^^.  came  here  in  an  early  day  and  took  up 
his  residence.  He  had  a  numerous  family  gro"\ying 
around  him.  One  of  hrs  daughters  had  married  and 
settled  by  him.  In  the  fall  of  1845  she  came,  accom- 
panied by  her  lover,  in  a  small  boat  to  Kewawenon, 
a  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  to  be  sacrificed  on  the 
hymeneal  altar.  The  writer  felt  himself  not  a  little 
honored  by  this  visit  from  his  neighbors  of  the  Island, 
especially  as  he  was  called  upon  to  perform  the 
solemn  rite. 

At  this  island  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  com- 
modious harbors  to  be  found  any  where. 

Wednesday,  28th,  was  a  beautiful  morning,  enliv- 
ened by  a  bland  south  breeze.  After  a  good  rest 
on  shore,  where  we  shared  the  generous  hospitality 
of  Mr.  Ws  family,  at  twelve  o'clock,  M.,  we  vrere 
again  called  on  board.  At  four,  P.  M.,  we  were 
nearly  becalmed.  At  sunset  the  wind  was  slightly 
ahead.  During  the  night  we  beat  with  some  success. 
Thursday  morning  Presque  Isle  was  south,  in  sight, 
and  Granite  Island  sevei^al  miles  ahead.  We  could 
now  lay  our  course  for  Kewawenon.  We  had  a  rough 
sea  all  day.  But  by  the  blessing  of  a  gracious  Prov- 
idence, the  same  evening  we  dropped  anchor  in  the 
Bay,  near  the  Methodist  mission.  We  were  now  soon 
surrounding  our  own  cheerful  fire,  to  recount,  with 
gratitude,  the  goodness  of  God  to  us  during  a  long 
and  perilous  voyage.  Never  before  did  home  seem 
so  sweet. 

November  1st,  the  Sabbath  after  our  return,  was 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  129 

a  memorable  day  to  us.  The  Indians  came  out  in 
tlie  morning,  and  brother  H.  preached  them  a  good 
practical  sermon.  In  the  afternoon  I  preached  to  tlie 
few  white  residents,  from  Hebrews  xiii,  12-14,  dvrell- 
ing  particularly  on  the  latter  part,  ''  Here  we  have 
no  continuing  city."  I  was  blessed  with  great  free- 
dom, and  considerable  enlargement  in  speaking.  The 
congregation  were  melted  into  tears.  The  subject, 
applicable  as  it  is  to  men  at  all  times,  was  especially 
so  at  this  time.  Death  had,  during  our  absence,  in- 
vaded our  ranks  among  the  Indians.  He  had  dealt 
a  terrible  blow  upon  our  small  white  settlement  in 
the  very  sudden  death  of  Mr.  J.,  the  carpenter,  who 
was  cut  down  in  the  prime  and  vigor  of  life.  He 
died,  we  trust,  not  without  hope  in  Christ.  The  text 
did  not  tend  more  to  impress  us  with  the  past  than 
to  admonish  us  of  the  future.  In  the  cons^reoiation' 
was  a  Mr.  B.,  a  respectable  and  worthy  member  of 
a  sister  Church.  He  was  the  agent  of  a  mine  at 
Silver  Mountain,  as  it  was  called,  about  fifteen  miles 
off.  His  leisure  time  he  spent  at  our  place.  He 
seemed  to  enjoy  much  the  privilege  of  worshiping 
with  us.  The  following  Sabbath  he  spoke  in  our 
class  meeting  of  his  strong  confidence  in  God,  and 
of  his  determination  to  stand,  at  all  times,  as  a  wit- 
ness for  the  Savior.  That  week  was  not  half  gone 
before  I  saw  the  dead  body  of  Mr.  B.  taken  out  of 
Sturgeon  river,  whero  he  had  been  drowned.  He 
had  loaded  a  small  bark  canoe  with  vegetables.  Ac- 
companied by  two  men  he  attempted  to  reach  Silver 


liJO  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

Mountain  by  water.  He  had  crossed  the  Baj,  entered 
Portage  river,  passed  thence  into  Sturgeon  river, 
where  he  had  gone  onlj^  short  distance  before,  run- 
ning upon  a  large  snag,  he  broke  a  hole  through  the 
canoe,  and,  in  attempting  to  escape,  was  drowned. 
The  two  men  made  their  escape,  got  out  the  canoe, 
and  came  down  the  river  in  one  end,  after  having 
cut  it  in  two.  Such  was  the  sad  fate  of  Mr.  B.  Nor 
was  the  fate  of  the  Company  any  less  disastrous  than 
that  of  their  worthy  agent.  The  succeeding  season 
they  rallied  afresh  to  prosecute  the  work  at  Silver 
Mountain.  They  sent  on  a  new  agent,  and  new  re- 
cruits of  men  and  means.  They  all  reached  the  Saut 
de  Ste.  Marie  in  safety.  They  left  the  Saut,  bound 
for  the .  mine,  on  the  schooner  Merchant,  and  have 
never  since  been  heard  of.  A  small  fragment  of  the 
wreck  is  all  that  has  been  discovered  of  this  sad 
catastrophe.  Mining  has  not  since  been  prosecuted 
at  Silver  Mountain.  Indeed  it  has  never  been  a  mine, 
only  in  2^ros2:>ect.  The  location  was  a  bone  of  con- 
tention when  first  made,  and  has  ended  in  disappoint- 
ment to  all,  and  in  irreparable  loss  to  some.  Thus 
does  wealth  often  elude  the  grasp  of  those  that  Avould 
be  rich,  and  the  glory  of  the  world  passes  awaj. 


MISSIONAIIY   LIFE.  131 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

WORK   xVMONG   THE   M  IXE  R  S  — KE  W  A  WE  K  0  N 
MISSION. 

The  week  after  our  arrival  at  Kewawenon  we  suc- 
ceeded in  securing  our  crop  and  in  arranging  affairs 
at  the  mission  preparatory  to  my  expected  absence 
among  tlie  miners. 

The  great  show  of  native  copper,  at  the  Cliff  Mine, 
had  but  recently  been  discovered,  which  was  looked 
upon  as  one  of  the  world's  wonders.  Mining  at  that 
locality  was  prosecuted  very  briskly.  The  brightening 
prospect  here  gave  a  new  impetus  to  mining  all 
through  the  mineral  region.  Companies  had  been 
formed  and  mining  forces  concentrated,  in  various 
places,  scattered  over  Point  Kewenaw,  and  also  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  On-to-na-gon  river.  As  yet  the 
foundation  of  Christian  institutions  had  not  been  laid. 
It  was  to  plant  the  Rose  of  Sharon  among  the  craggy 
rocks  of  that  desolate  region  that  such  a  mission  was 
contemplated. 

FIRST    VISIT   AMONG    THE   MINERS. 

November  the  10th,  I  left  home  in  company  with 
two  young  men  from  Point  Kewenaw,  to  visit  and 
prcacli    among    the    miners,   as    opportunity    offered. 


132  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

Took  Avith  me  a  heavy  Indian  blanket  and  a  pair 
of  snow-shoes.  The  young  men  with  whom  I  took 
passage,  had  a  small  Mackinaw  boat.  In  this  each 
took  his  appropriate  station,  one  to  steer,  the  others 
to  row.  The  first  day,  which  turned  out  to  be  rainy 
and  disagreeable,  we  crossed  over  to  the  mouth  of 
Portage  river,  twelve  miles  and  a  half.  Here  we 
found  a  number  of  miners  encamped,  all  looking  seri- 
ous as  the  grave;  word  had  just  reached  them  that 
Mr.  Barber,  before  mentioned,  was  drowned.  We 
tarried  here  for  the  night,  and  the  next  morning  pur- 
sued our  journey  up  Portage  river  into  Portage  Lake, 
thence  to  the  mouth  of  Sturgeon  river,  where  we 
aided  in  the  search  for  the  body  of  Mr.  Barber.  It 
was  soon  found,  and  taken  to  Kewawcnon.  Turning 
away  from  this  affecting  scene,  we  made  our  way 
through  the  eastern  arm  of  Portage  Lake;  thence  by 
Torch  river  into  and  across  Torch  Lake.  A  mile  and 
a  half  by  land,  brought  us  to  the  Douglas  Houghton 
Company's  Works.  These  were  situated  in  a  narrow 
chasm,  between  two  precipitous  bluffs,  on  the  banks 
of  a  delightful  brook,  like  the  fountain  of  life  itself, 
ever  flowing  and  clear.  A  little  above  it  forms  a 
beautiful  cascade,  leaping  down  from  the  top  of  the 
southern  bluff,  dashing  and  foaming  over  its  uneven 
bed,  keeping  up  a  perpetual  roar.  Much  labor  and 
money  were  spent  here  to  no  purpose,  and  the  works 
have  since  been  abandoned.  We  were  comfortably 
and  cordially  entertained. 

Thursday,  the  12th,  we  traveled  on  foot  to  the  Cliff 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  13S 

Mine,  a  distance  of  about  sixteen  miles.  Part  of 
our  way  was  a  passable  road,  newly  cut  through  the 
dense  forest;  the  other  was  a  rough  trail  over  hills 
and  valleys.  It  led  by  several  locations  where  com- 
fortable log-houses  had  been  erected  and  mining 
briskly  prosecuted.  But  several  of  these  locations 
have  been  abandoned,  and  the  moldering  ruins  ad- 
monish us  how  often  men  draw  blanks  from  the  lot- 
tery of  human  fortune.  I  might  mention  each  of 
the  stations  visited,  and  at  each  find  something  profit- 
able for  refiection;  but  this  would  perhaps  tax  un- 
necessarily the  reader's  patience.  Let  it  sufiice  that 
I  traveled  over  Point  Kewenaw  to  nearly  all  the  loca- 
tions, making,  in  this  circuit,  about  one  hundred  and 
ninety  miles — fifty-five  by  water,  and  the  rest  by 
land.  I  had  the  privilege  of  proclaiming  the  Gospel 
eleven  times — in  some  places  where  the  cross  of 
Christ  had  never  before  been  preached.  Every-where 
I  met  the  warmest  reception  and  many  marks  of 
favor,  which  I  shall  always  remember  and  prize. 

On  my  return  home  from  this  trip  I  lost  my  way 
in  a  dreary  wilderness,  which  was  to  me  an  occasion 
of  much  fatigue  and  peril.  As  I  can  not  but  own 
the  hand  of  a  kind  Providence  in  my  deliverance,  I 
will  give  a  brief  account  of  the  circumstances.  The 
night  of  the  last  day  of  November  I  slept  at  the 
Douglas  Houghton  location,  on  my  return  home. 
Already  the  ground  was  covered  with  snow  some 
inches  deep.  Torch  Lake  was  yet  open;  but  the 
river  forming  its   outlet  was   frozen   over  for   three 


134  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

miles  and  a  half.  Water  communication  to  Kewa- 
-svenon  T\-as  tlms  intcrrui^tecl,  and  I  was  compelled  to 
go  by  land  most  of  the  Tray.  Had  hoped  here  to 
procure  company,  but  no  one  could  be  spared  from 
the  mines  to  go  any  distance.  Mr.  F.  D.  and  another 
person  consented  to  go  with  me  across  Torch  Lake, 
and  down  the  river  where  it  was  frozen,  to  a  place 
where  some  of  their  stores  had  been  left. 

We  left  about  eight  o'clock,  A.  M.  It  was  snow- 
ing very  fast,  and  continued  most  of  the  day.  We 
had  soon  crossed  the  Lake — about  three  and  a  half 
miles  wide — in  a  boat;  then  we  walked  on  the  ice  till 
we  came  to  the  Company's  stores.  Here  my  friends 
loaded  their  hand-train  and  returned.  I  went  into 
the  woods,  and  attempted  to  cross  the  strip  of  land 
between  Portage  Lake  and  Kewenaw  Bay.  Directly 
across  it  was  only  about  eight  miles;  but  there  was 
neither  road,  nor  trail,  nor  footprint  of  a  human  being 
to  be  seen.  My  first  search  was  for  a  surveyor's 
line.  Found  several  trees  blazed,  but  could  trace 
no  regular  line.  I  had  a  small  pocket-compass — at 
best  an  uncertain  guide  in  a  mineral  region;  but  it 
was  not  long  before  the  glass  came  out,  and  it  was 
useless  to  me.  I  was  now  left  to  guess  out  my  way, 
without  even  the  semblance  of  a  guide. 

The  snow  was  now  about  six  inches  deep,  and  con- 
tinually falling — enough  to  make  walking  hard  with- 
out snow-shoes,  but  not  enough  for  walking  with 
them.  To  carry  them  was  an  incumbrance;  but  I 
dared  not  leave  them,  not  knowing  how  soon  I  might 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  135 

need  tliem.  These,  together  with  my  blanket  and 
other  parts  of  my  outfit,  weighed  about  twenty 
pounds.  My  eatables  consisted  of  six  biscuits.  I 
had  also  a  small  hatchet — too  small  for  any  thing  but 
to  blaze  trees  and  to  cut  off  small  limbs.  So  armed  I 
plunged  into  the  forest,  climbing  hills  and  plodding 
through  valleys  and  swamps.  At  noon,  seated  on  a 
\o^,  I  dined  on  a  biscuit  and  a  half — not  such  bis- 
cuits,  by  the  way,  as  our  good  sisters  often  get  up 
when  visited  by  the  itinerant.  Those  biscuits  had 
never  seen  a  lady's  fingers;  they  were  sorry  food, 
suitable  to  the  occasion.  But  they  were  the  best  our 
poor  bachelors  could  afford — such  as  they  were  accus- 
tomed to  eat,  freely  given,  thankfully  received,  and 
eaten  with  thanks  to  Him  who  has  assured  us  that 
"  man  shall  not  live  by  bread  alone." 

Thus  refreshed,  I  addressed  myself  anew  to  the 
task  before  me.  From  this  time  I  was  governed  by 
the  distant  roar  of  waves  ahead.  The  trees  and 
bushes  were  heavily  loaded  with  snow,  so  as  to  make 
it  very  wet  overhead,  and  the  low  and  swampy  land 
.  was  not  yet  frozen.  With  my  clothes  and  moccasins 
literally  soaked,  I  had  very  sensible  impressions,  if 
not  the  most  agreeable. 

Night  overtook  me  in  the  midst  of  a  cedar  swamp. 
One  who  has  never  traveled  through  such  swamps 
can  scarcely  have  an  idea  with  how  much  difficulty 
this. is  attended.  He  must  climb  over  fallen  brush 
and  timber;  often  creep  on  his  hands  and  knees 
under  logs  and  limbs,  and  press  through  the  thick 


136  LIGHTS  AXD   SHADES   OF 

underwood.  Siicli  traveling  is  fatiguing  in  the  best 
weather  and  with  every  possible  help;  but  with  the 
obstructions  I  met  it  was  almost  impossible  to  makp 
headway.  I  looked  about  for  some  time  for  a  suit- 
able place  to  camp.  At  length  I  came  to  a  small 
spot  of  comparativly  dry  land,  on  which  stood  a  large 
hemlock,  surrounded  by  smaller  trees,  mostly  balsam. 
With  some  effort  I  made  a  fire  at  the  roots  of  thdt 
hemlock.  I  then  cut  small  poles,  and  leaned  them 
against  the  tree,  covering  them  with  balsam  boughs, 
so  as  to  afford  temporary  shelter;  spreading  boughs 
on  the  snow  within  for  floor  and  carpet.  I  now 
endeavored  to  provide  wood  for  the  night,  which 
gave  me  no  little  labor,  as  good  wood  was  hardly 
to  be  found,  and  worse  to  be  cut  into  pieces  with  a 
poor  tool.  It  was  ten  o'clock  at  night  before  I  fin- 
ished this  task,  and  even  then  I  had  not  a  supply. 
Before  morning  I  had  to  chop  more  or  be  without  fire. 
By  this  time  I  was  forcibly  reminded  that  my  sup- 
per hour  had  arrived.  But  I  was  so  exhausted  that 
I  felt  little  inclined  to  eat ;  half  a  biscuit  served  my 
turn.  As  night  closed  in  it  commenced  raining,  and 
continued,  with  little  abatement,  through  the  night. 
The  wind  howled  among  the  tree-tops,  and  the  roar 
of  distant  waves  fell  on  my  ear.  I  tried  to  dry  my 
wet  clothes;  and,  commending  myself  and  my  all  to 
God,  wrapped  me  up  in  my  blanket,  and  laid  mo 
down  to  sleep.  But  this  was  nearly  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. Without  constant  attention  the  rain  would  put 
out  my  fire;  otherwise  I  could  have  slept  soundly. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  I37 

1  had  now  a  good  opportunity  to  test  the  support 
religion  can  give  when  all  other  help  is  cut  off.  In 
the  possession  of  that  which 


"  Gives  even  affliction  a  grace, 
And  reconciles  man  to  his  lot," 

I  was  enabled  to 

"Give  to  the  winds  my  fears, 
Hope,  and  be  undismayed." 

I  felt  not  the  least  doubt  concerning  the  final  issue; 
nor  did  the  raging  elements  disturb  my  inward  tran- 
quillity. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  2d  I  arose,  and,  after 
offering  up  praise  for  past  mercies,  and  imploring 
divine  protection  for  the  coming  day,  I  partook  of 
such  luxury  as  the  place  would  afford  for  break- 
fast— a  biscuit,  ready  baked.  Now  shouldering  my 
pack,  I  left  this  temporary  abode,  scarcely  knowing 
whither  I  was  bound.  The  sun  was  obscured  by 
clouds,  and  considerable  rain  fell  during  the  forenoon, 
I  bent  my  course  toward  the  roaring  of  the  waves. 
What  was  my  surprise,  when  I  came  out,  to  find 
that  I  was  on  the  shore  of  Portage  Lake,  instead  of 
Kewenaw  Bay!  In  bearing  too  far  to  the  west,  I 
added  much  to  the  distance  and  had  more  swampy 
land. 

Iletracing  my  steps  back  into  the  woods,  I  endeav- 
ored to  steer  my  course  more  to  the  south-east.  But 
it  was,  at  best,  mostly  guess-work.  Let  me  turn 
which  way  I  would,  almost  impassable  cedar  swamps 


138  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES  OF 

seemed  to  beset  me.  After  some  time  I  came  iu 
sight  of  a  broad  sheet  of  water,  T\'hich,  at  first  ghmce, 
I  took  to  be  KcTvenaw  Bay,  but  soon  discovered  mj 
error.  At  any  rate,  I  concluded  to  go  to  the  -water, 
if  possible,  hoping  to  be  able  to  follow  along  shore, 
and  come  out  somewhere.  But  a  bad  swamp  was 
betAveen,  which  I  made  three  ineffectual  attempts  to 
cross.  It  was  miry,  and  matted  with  brush  and 
timber. 

My  situation  now  became  very  perplexing.  I  was 
drenched  thoroughly  with  rain  and  snow-water.  Be- 
in  o-  much  exhausted  from  constant  and  severe  exer- 
cise,  I  became  very  thirsty,  and  drank  several  times 
of  water  which  stood  in  hollow  places.  But  this 
increased  rather  than  allayed  thirst.  At  one  time 
I  made  a  circle,  and  came  again  on  my  own  tracks. 
Said  I  within  myself,  "What  Indian  has  been  along 
here?"  for  I  took  it,  at  first,  to  be  the  track  of  an 
Indian  hunter;  but  a  moment's  attention  showed  me 
that  it  was  the  print  of  my  own  moccasin.  I  was 
obliged,  at  frequent  intervals,  to  stop  and  rest;  found 
it  quite  burdensome  to  drag  myself  along.  Lest  I 
should  become  faint  and  stupid,  and  perhaps  chill  to 
death,  as  many  others  in  similar  situations,  I  stopped 
to  make  a  fire  and  rest  awhile.  But,  first  eating  a 
biscuit,  I  felt  somewhat  revived,  and  Avent  on  again. 
Now,  for  the  first  time  since  I  had  entered  the  woods, 
the  ^sun,  for  a  few  moments,  looked  down  on  me 
through  the  opening  clouds.  It  was  about  two  o'clock, 
r.  M.     I  was  enabled  by  this  means  to  lay  my  course. 


b 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  139 

Walking  a  little  longer  brouglit  me  to  Portage  river, 
not  far  from  Kewenaw  Bay.  I  followed  down  the 
shore  till  I  came  to  a  Pine  point,  from  which  to  the 
Entry — mouth  of  Portage  river — it  was  only  a  mile 
straight  across.  The  beautiful  Bay  was  in  full  view, 
and  the  high  land  in  the  rear  of  the  mission  at  Kewa- 
wenon.  With  the  fine  prospect  ahead,  my  muscles 
seemed  to  gather  fresh  elasticity. 

But  I  was  not  yet  out.  Between  me  and  the  Entry 
was  a  low  marsh,  at  that  time  full  of  water.  To  go 
round  this  would  cost  me  about  four  miles'  walking. 
"Which  would  be  best — to  try  to  wade  through,  or  to 
go  round?  I  chose  the  first.  But  I  soon  found  hard 
wading ;  proceeded  perhaps  thirty-five  rods,  by  stop- 
ping several  times  to  rest.  At  length  I  came  to  a 
full  stop.  The  further  I  went  the  worse  it  became, 
and  I  despaired  of  getting  across.  "Was  about  to 
turn  back,  and  do  the  next  best  thing,  but,  casting 
my  eyes  down  toward  the  Entry,  I  saw  two  sails. 
With  a  stiff  breeze  aft^  they  were  making  up  the 
river.  E[ope  again  revived;  help  appeared  to  be 
approaching  at  a  time  most  needed.  I  had  waited 
only  a  few  moments  till  two  boats  arrived.  James 
Tanner  was  in  one;  his  wife  and  childi*en  in  the 
other.  They  were  going  up  the  river  after  wood. 
They  came  to  my  relief.  I  went  aboard  the  small 
boat,  and  exchanged  wading  for  rowing,  while  Mrs. 
Tanner  managed  the  helm.  James  went  on  and  pro- 
cured his  wood.  We  soon  reached  the  bark-covered 
cabiii,  and  had  a  good  fire.     Dry  clothes  were  fur- 


140  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

nished,  and  some  warm  food  soon  provided.  My 
appetite  returned^  and  I  began  once  more  to  feel 
like  myself.  The  past  scarcely  looked  like  reality. 
The  nio-ht  folio  win  o;  it  snowed,  and  the  wind  blew 
as  if  to  unroof  our  cabin.  And  this  might  have 
been  done,  had  not  my  host  gone  up  and  nailed  the 
barks  two  or  three  times.  I  need  make  no  remarks 
respecting  my  own  feelings,  in  view  of  the  difference 
between  my  situation  in  that  humble  dwelling,  and 
what  it  would  have  been  out  in  that  storm. 

The  next  day  I  had  a  pretty  severe  walk  of  about 
thirteen  miles,  over  a  rough  trail,  to  the  Catholic 
mission,  where  I  arrived  at  four  o'clock,  P.  M.  Soon 
obtained  an  Indian  and  his  son,  who  took  me  in  a  small 
bark  canoe,  and  carried  me  across  the  Bay,  where, 
just  at  nightfall,  I  set  foot  into  our  own  door,  and 
realized  once  more  what  the  poet  meant  when  he  said, 

"  Home,  sweet  home ! 
Be  it  ever  so  homely,  there 's  no  place  like  home." 

If  the  writer  of  this  imperfect  sketch,  and  those  into 
whose  hands  it  may  fall,  shall  at  last  gain  that  siveet 
Jiome  in  the  skies,  we  shall  never  find  reason  to  regret 
the  roughness  of  the  way. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE. 


141 


1^ 

•2 
1 

For  these  statistics  I  was  indebted  to 
agents  and  mining  captains.  They  are, 
no  doubt,  an  approximation  to  correct- 
ness. They  err  from  deficit,  rather 
than  from  excess. 

At  Albion,  tho  Cliff,  Eaglo  River, 
Eaglo  Harbor,  and  several  other  jjlaces, 
preached  the  iirst  sermon  over  preached 
in  those  localities. 

At  several  places  it  was  not  con- 
venient to  have  public.worship.     Wiien 
several  mines  were  near  each  other,  tho 
people  usually  collected  from  all  to  ono 
place. 

Generally  I  was  obliged  to  mako  ap- 
pointments on  tho  way,  to  fill  on  my 
return. 

Roman  CatholL-s. ...   1     ;     :  =^    I     :     •_  o    •  -^    •     •     •  ^l    '.     '.  Ill    :     I     '.     '.     '.I 

Protestiuitg 1   ::  °°  ::': '^  ^'^  :::::::;•.:::  : 

H 

Protess'rs  of  Religion.  1     ;     I  ^^    I     I     ;  o  w  o    •     •     :  j^    1     I  Zl    '     !     I     !     I     '. 

Total  Inhabitants....   I'-'' <^gi    1     I  S  S  t",    '.     I  "-^  ?{  5^    1  ^    1     I  ^    I     I     I 

a 

Xo.  of  Children  under  1   «    -  O    -     .     .  ,-  o  i-    •     •     -     -     .     •     •     •     ;  CO    ;     •     ; 
twelve  years  of  age.   |           •  i-i     -     -     •  i— i 

xo.  of  Fainiues |rH  ;  ^  i;;"- -~ '-^  ;:;  ::::::«::  ; 

H. 

1 

1 
<; 

.James  Tanner.  • 
F.  Douglas  .-•• 
John  Hayes  •  •  • 
Mr.  Stevens  ... 

Martin  Coryell - 
David  French  - 
D.  D.  Brockway 

Mr.  ]k'rnard-  •- 
S.  Mendlebaum. 
Mr.  Sibley  ...  - 

Mr.  M'Carty... 
Joshua  Childs- 

i 
5 

o 

1 

1 

i6!  i  i  i  i 

liiivk 

-  C}  ^^  <  O      '^  '^ 

Copper  Harbor 

Vicinity  of  C.  Harbor. 

(popper  Harbor 

Hoston  Co.,  No.  15... 

Hohemian 

Lac  Labellc 

IJohemian 

,  f_       .... 

3:2     6:^ -) 

Sermons  Preached...    |      ;     ;     ]  ^    I  '~' ^    '.     [     '.  '^    '.  '^    '.  '^    '.     ."  ^'    I     '.     '.     ' 

Miles  Traveled 

-t*  o  o  -ri  c-i    .  cT  cc  -*  re  JC  >--5  2C  ■"  ^"  ^  -f    -  c-i't-  ^2    • 

r-^  <M  r-M                     •                   r-(                                                       ^      - 

i 

T 

H 

Tuesday,  Nov.  lOlh 
Wednesday,  11th.-- 
Thursdav,  12th.  -•■ 
Friday,  i3th.....  -- 
Saturday,  Uth...-- 
Sunday,  15th. 

Tuesd.ay,  17th.  .... 
Wednesday,  18th.. 
Thursday,  I  Uth.  -  • 

Friday,  20th. 

Saturday,  21st..-  • 

Sundav,  22d. 

I^Ionday,  23d. 

a             (I      

Tuesday,  24th.  ... 
Wednesday,  25th. . 

12 


142 


LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 


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a 

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Protestants 1     ; 

1  «o 

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Profosa'rBorRoligion  |     ; 

::::::::  1  ;^ 

Total  Inhabitants....   1     '. 

:::::::: 

No.of  Children  under 

::::  ::::p 

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1  iO 

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Miles  Traveled 

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H     OiOJ     ShP^H 

MISSIONARY   LIFE.  143 

SUBSEQUENT   VISITS   AMONG    THE   MINERS. 

December  23.  Left  Kewawenon  to  visit  the  miners 
the  second  time,  and  returned  in  just  three  weeks, 
having  traveled  two  hundred  and  twelve  miles,  nearly 
all  on  foot — preached  twelve  times  and  delivered  one 
temperance  address,  to  a  crowded  and  very  attentive 
audience,  at  the  Cliff  Mine.  Quite  an  interest  was 
here  waked  up  on  this  subject,  and  rising  of  thirty 
persons  signed  the  pledge  of  total  abstinence.  A 
small  class  of  eight  persons  was  organized  at  the 
Cliff,  with  which  we  enjoyed  some  precious  seasons 
during  the  year. 

Made  three  other  visits,  one  in  the  winter  and  two 
durins  the  followino^  summer.  The  first  visit  I  left 
home  without  scrip  or  purse,  and,  unasked,  sundry 
persons  contributed  twenty -four  dollars  and  a  half  for 
our  support.  The  second  visit  they  raised,  of  their 
own  free  will,  sixty  dollars  and  twenty  cents.  And 
so  on,  in  subsequent  visits,  till  it  amounted  to  about 
two  hundred  dollars.  And  besides,  they  contributed 
above  sixty  dollars  toward  the  erection  of  our  new 
church  at  Kewawenon. 

The  names  of  agents  and  mining  captains,  men- 
tioned in  the  accompanying  table,  were  among  the 
foremost  in  these  acts  of  generosity.  In  addition  to 
persons  already  named,  I  was  much  indebted  to  Mr. 
Taylor  of  Albion  Mine,  Mr.  J.  Senter  of  Eagle  river, 
Mr.  Shaply  of  Copper  Falls,  Mr.  D.  D.  Brockway  of 
Copper  Harbor,  and  Judge  Hawes  and  his  estimable 


H4  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

lady  of  Fort  Wilkins,  T\-ith  others  too  tedious  to  name. 
Such  large-heartedness  is  worthy  of  permanent  rec- 
ord, as  characterizing  the  hardy  pioneers  of  that  vast 
TYiklerness.  May  their  inheritance  be  that  "which 
maketh  rich  and  addeth  no  sorrow !" 

Brother  Holt  visited  the  miners  twice  during  the 
year.  The  first  time  he  was  taken  sick  and  confined 
to  his  bed  about  eight  weeks. 

I  may  add,  in  substance,  what  was  published  at  the 
time,  in  the  Western  Christian  Advocate,  that,  "after 
many  a  weary  walk  alone,  through  a  dense  wilderness, 
supported  by  snow-shoes,  on  a  depth  of  three  or  four 
feet  of  snow,  at  times  wading  through  swamps,  then 
climbing  mountains,  crossing  lakes,  or  following  the 
meanderings  of  a  river,  on  the  ice — often,  after  such 
seasons  of  toil,  and  sometimes  of  danger,  my  soul 
has  been  exceedingly  blessed  in  preaching  Christ  cru- 
cified to  the  people.  And  although  little  fruit  has  as 
yet  appeared,  I  trust  it  will  be  found,  in  the  great 
day,  that  our  ^  labor  has  not  been  in  vain  in  the 
Lord.'  This  circuit,  as  it  might  be  called,  is  over  two 
hundred  miles  in  extent,  counting  the  zigzag  trails 
across  Point  Kewenaw.  Each  tour  was  generally  per- 
formed in  three  weeks,  sometimes  less.  This  made  it 
necessary  to  travel  more  or  less  almost  every  day, 
often  twenty-five  or  thirty  and  even  more  miles  a  day, 
on  foot,  carrying  a  pack  weighing  from  twelve  to 
tAvcnty  pounds.  It  cost  me,  in  all,  about  twelve  hun- 
dred miles  traveling,  nearly  eight  hundred  on  foot  and 
the  rest  by  water.     Such  are  some  of  the  character- 


MISSIONARY    LIFE.  145 

istics  of  Methodist  itinerancy  in  this  region.  These 
things  are  mentioned,  not  boastinglj,  but  with  the 
most  grateful  recollections  of  that  Providence  who 
gave   me  such  power  of  endurance." 

STATE    OF   THINGS   AT   KEWAWENON. 

So  far  as  the  white  residents  were  concerned  im- 
portant changes  had  taken  place.  An  entire  change 
had  been  made  in  the  Government  men — the  old  ones 
had  all  been  displaced  by  others.  Those  newly  ap- 
pointed, with  their  families,  were  kind  and  obliging 
neighbors,  but  made  no  pretensions  to  religion.  The 
saw-mill  near  the  head  of  the  Bay  was  now  in  opera- 
tion, and  several  white  men  were  there  employed  in 
lumbering,  who  often  came  to  the  mission  to  hear 
preaching.  Two  or  three  were  persons  of  strict  mo- 
rality, and  well-wishers  to  the  cause  of  religion;  but 
the  others  had  little  of  the  fear  of  God,  and,  by  their 
example,  exerted  an  influence  hostile  to  jnetj. 

Brother  Holt  taught  the  day  school  and  kept  up 
the  Sunday  school  and  the  religious  meetings  in  my 
absence.  When  at  home  the  other  duties,  except  the 
school,  were  shared  between  us.  There  was  much 
manual  labor  to  be  done  during  the  year,  which  de- 
volved mostly  on  me.  In  the  various  departments  of 
labor  and  responsibility,  we  had  evidences  of  gradual 
improvement,  if  not  of  very  marked  success.  And, 
in  their  place,  the  gently-distilling  dew,  the  kindly 
shower,  and  the  genial  sunlight,  are  as  necessary  as 
the  drenching  rain  and  scorching  sun.     Many  of  our 


146  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

meetings  during  the  year  Tvere  seasons  of  refreshing 
from  the  presence  of  the  Lord.  In  the  month  of 
February  ^ve  Avere  made  to  rejoice  at  the  apparently- 
marked  conversion  of  J.  T.  and  his  •wife,  who  had  once 
been  Papists.  On  the  21st  I  baptized  him  and  his 
family,  and  received  him  and  his  "wife  into  the  Church 
on  trial.  Mr.  T.  promised  great  usefulness  to  the 
cause  of  Christ.  Physically  he  was  equal  to  almost 
any  emergency.  He  had  also  strong  powers  of  mind, 
but  afibrding  at  times  pretty  clear  evidence  of  partial 
insanity.  Such  was  the  opinion  of  some  expressed  at 
this  time.  He  spoke  fluently  Ojibwa,  French,  and 
English.  His  experience  appeared  to  be  deep,  and 
his  whole  deportment  most  exemplary,  as  was  also 
that  of  his  wife.  One  of  his  little  sons  also  furnished 
good  evidence  of  conversion.  I  have  never  witnessed 
any  where  more  genuine  evidences  of  deep  and  heart- 
felt piety  than  were  to  be  seen  in  this  family.  And 
yet  I  regret  to  state  that,  two  or  three  years  after- 
ward, at  a  remote  station,  he  sadly  fell,  so  as  to  bring 
great  j^eproach  upon  the  cause  of  Christ.  But  the 
details,  as  involving  several  persons,  whites  and  In- 
dians, I  must  omit,  as  aifording  nothing  either  edi- 
fying or  profitable  to  the  reader.  The  fact  should 
remind  us  of  the  inspired  caution,  ''Let  him  that 
thinketh  he  standeth  take  heed  lest  he  fall." 

EEECTION   or  A  CHURCH. 

One  of  the  most  important  movements  connected 
with  the  Kcwawenon  mission  this  year,  was  the  build- 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  147 

ing  of  a  churcli.  The  log  school-house,  -^hich  had 
answered  our  purpose,  had  been  rendered  tolerahly 
comfortable  by  frequent  repairs.  But  we  felt  that  the 
time  had  fully  come  when  the  mission  needed  a  better 
house.  Our  limited  missionary  appropriation  afforded 
us  no  help  in  this  direction,  and  the  prospect  of 
securing  the  necessary  means  to  accomplish  such  a 
work  was  at  best  doubtful.  But  we  determined,  with 
the  help  of  God,  to  make  the  attempt. 

The  few  white  people  at  our  station,  together  with 
the  Indians,  pledged  something  more  than  a  hundred 
dollars  toward  this  object,  to  be  paid  mostly  in  work. 
But  this  was  a  small  beginning.  We  called  for  help 
from  abroad,  but  to  this  call  there  was  no  very  liberal 
response,  and  we  were  thrown  upon  our  own  re- 
sources. But  this  imposed  no  little  hard  toil  and 
care  on  us,  in  getting  out  and  drawing  the  timber, 
making  the  shingles,  drawing  on  the  ice  and  boating 
the  lumber  from  the  saw-mill,  planing  and  putting  on 
the  siding,  and  putting  on  the  roof,  much  of  which 
work  was  done  with  our  own  hands.  But  with  the 
aid  afforded  us  by  the  miners,  and  those  at  home,  and 
a  little  help  from  abroad,  most  of  which  was  sent  to 
us  by  brother  A.  W.  Brockway,  of  Pittsburg,  we 
erected  the  frame  and  inclosed  and  secured  it  for  the 
winter  by  the  time  we  were  called  to  go  to  another 
field.  "When  we  went  to  the  pinery,  three  miles  dis- 
tant, to  cut  the  timber,  before  we  struck  a  blow,  the 
little  company  kneeled  down  upon  the  snow,  and,  by 
fervent  prayer  to  God,  invoked  his  guidance  and  aid, 


148  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

wliich  we  as  fully  believe  lie  afforded  as  that  we  exist. 
It  was  estimated  that  one  hundred  and  fifty  or  two 
hundred  dollars  would  complete  the  house,  when  it 
would  be  worth  five  or  six  hundred.  Thus  far  it  was 
free  from  debt. 

AYhile  we  had  reason  to  believe  that  the  society 
connected  with  the  mission  was  generally  in  a  healthy 
and  prosperous  state,  two  circumstances  occurred  at 
the  close  of  the  year  which  gave  us  great  pain  and 
sorroAY.  We  were  obliged  to  lay  aside  two  of  the  old 
members  of  the  Church,  but  in  their  case  there  was 
yet  hope — they  might  repent  and  be  restored  to  God, 
and  to  the  bosom  of  the  Church.  But  the  other  evil 
was  beyond  remedy.  On  the  night  of  the  27th  of 
October  three  of  our  Indians  went  across  the  Bay  to 
a  trader's,  purchased  liquor  and  became  intoxicated. 
They  returned  late  at  night,  and  one  of  them,  too 
drunk  to  know  what  he  was  about,  was  left  in  the 
boat.  In  the  morning  he  was  found  lying  on  the 
ground,  on  his  face,  near  the  water,  dead!  This 
story. is  soon  told;  but  0,  the  dreadful  end  of  the 
drunkard !  and  the  curse  that  must  fall  on  the  head 
of  him  who  was  instrumental  in  the  death  and  ruin 
of  this  young  man!  His  name  was  Joshua  Soule. 
He  was  a  youth  of  fine  appearance  and  promise,  and 
an  exemplary  Christian  till  he  was  led  into  this  fatal 
snare.  In  this  fact  the  reader  has  one  of  the  leading 
causes  why  the  Indians  are  a  doomed  race. 

During  our  stay  at  this  mission  the  superintendent, 
Rev.  W.  n.  Brockway,  visited  us  once  a  year.    Those 


MISSIONARY    LIFE.  149 

visits,  few  and  far  between,  and  necessarily  short, 
were  highly  prized  by  us,  and  the  more  so  as,  for 
most  of  the  time,  we  were  cut  off  from  the  society 
and  salutary  counsel  and  help  of  our  ministerial 
brethren.  This  remark  is  due  also  to  our  esteemed 
superintendent,  who  had  been  so  long  in  labors  more 
abundant  to  evangelize  the  Indians,  and  who  never 
failed  to  make  his  mark. 

13 


150  LIGHTS  AXD  SHADES  OF 


CHAPTER    IX. 

APPOINTMENT  TO  EAGLE   RIVER  MISSION— PER- 
PLEXITIES  — OUR  NEW  FIELD. 

The  Michigan  annual  conference  met  tliis  year  in 
Ypsilanti,  on  the  15th  of  September.  It  Tvas  more 
than  a  month  after  before  we  heard  any  thing  about 
our  appointment,  and,  even  then,  nothing  official. 
We  had  never  before  been  so  comfortably  fixed  to 
winter  at  that  station  as  now.  On  account  of  our 
new  church,  which  had  progressed  thus  far  under  our 
supervision,  and  some  other  matters  not  so  easily 
managed  by  strangers,  we  had  hoped  to  remain  an- 
other year;  on  other  accounts  we  had  no  special 
reason  to  regret  a  change. 

It  was  near  the  close  of  October,  when  blustering 
winds  and  occasional  snow  squalls  warned  us  of  the 
near  approach  of  a  long  winter,  that  a  breeze  from 
a  warmer  cllmc,  chilled  in  its  long  passage  over  the 
lakes,  reached  us,  uttering,  in  language  not  to  be 
misunderstood,  "  Arise,  for  this  is  not  your  rest." 
But  many  and  formidable  were  the  obstacles  in  the 
way  of  removal.  The  lateness  of  the  season,  the 
dangers  of  the  Lake,  rendered  appalling  by  late  and 
serious  disasters,  particularly  that  which  happened  to 
the  steamer  Julia  Palmer,  which  for  sixteen  days  had 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  ]  51 

been  at  tlie  mercy  of  storms — all  these,  aggravated 
b}"  a  report  directly  from  Point  Kewenaw  that,  in 
consequence  of  the  great  loss*  on  the  Julia  Palmer, 
many  of  the  miners  were  almost  exposed  to  starva- 
tion, and  that  provisions  "were  not  to  be  obtained; 
added  to  the  fact  that  our  own  funds  were-  nearly 
exhausted — these  and  other  circumstances  gave  a 
gloomy  appearance  to  our  future  prospect.  But  while 
reflecting  on  this  aspect  of  things,  I  was  rebuked 
by  that  passage  from  the  Savior,  '-Behold  the  fowls 
of  the  air,  for  they  sow  not,  neither  do  they  reap, 
nor  gather  into  barns,  and  yet  your  heavenly  Father 
feedeth  them."  This  is  enough.  Will  God  feed  his 
birds  and  not  his  childi'en  ? 

The  want  of  religious  society  in  our  prospective 
field  was  a  serious  drawback  on  our  feelings.  But 
we  had  always  made  it  a  matter  of  conscience  to  go, 
if  possible,  to  an  appointment;  and,  therefore,  re- 
solved to  venture  our  all  on  the  goodness  of  the 
APPOiXTixa  POWER,  and,  at  least,  throw  our  length 
that  way. 

For  a  long  time  we  had  looked,  in  vain,  for  some 
vessel  to  bring  winter  supplies  to  the  mission.  For 
nearly  two  months,  up  to  the  6th  of  November,  we 
had  lived  on  borrowed  provisions,  and  yet  none  came, 
and  no  way  seemed  to  open  for  us  to  get  away. 

The  schooner  Far   Trader  was  expected  by  the 


*For  want  of  fuel  they  wero  obliged  to  burn  the  pork,  ham?,  etc.,  on 
board,  to  make  steam  to  propel  the  boat. 


152  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

lOth  of  November,  on  lier  way  from  the  Said  to  tlie 
Ontonagon.  We  put  all  things  in  readiness,  and 
awaited  her  arrival  with  solicitude.  November  10th 
came,  and  true  to  expectation  the  old  schooner  came 
in  sight.  Night  had  just  dropped  her  dark  brow 
over  the  face  of  day,  when  a  rap  was  heard  at  the 
door  of  the  mission.  Who  should  be  there?  "Who 
but  one  of  the  hardy  pioneers  of  Lake  Superior,  who 
knew  not  what  it  was  to  shrink  from  toil  and  danger? 
Yes,  it  was  a  missionary,  brother  P.  0.  Johnson,  and 
his  delicate  wife,  w^ho  had  come  about  two  hundred 
miles,  in  a  bark  canoe,  to  labor  in  the  place  of  the 
old  incumbents.  This  does  not  look  like  an  assertion 
I  saw  some  time  ago  in  a  Catholic  publication,  that 
Protestant  missionaries  did  not  penetrate  into  this 
country  till  ^^ feather  beds/'  etc.,  had  been  provided 
for  them.  No  missionaries  have  labored  in  the  true 
spirit  of  sacrifice  more  than  some  of  the  Protestant 
missionaries  of  this  region.  I  need  not  say  that  they 
came  unexpected,  as  it  was  the  first  hint  vre  had  of 
the  new  arrangement,  only  so  far  as  v>'e  were  con- 
cerned. 

JSfovemhcr  11.  The  Fur  Trader  came  to  anchor 
opposite  the  mission.  But  imagine  our  disappoint- 
ment when  we  learned  that  she  had  been  driven  out 
of  her  course  by  adverse  winds — had  been  to  the 
Ontonagon,  and  was  on  her  downward  course  for 
Saut  Ste.  Marie.  Nothing  could  induce  the  captain 
to  take  us  to  Point  Kewenaw.  The  only  alternative 
now  left  us  was  to   coast.     We  were  now  subjected 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  153 

to  a  scries  of  perplexities  and  disappointments  in 
procuring  men,  a  canoe,  etc.,  which  it  would  be  tedious 
to  name. 

Bj  the  evening  of  the  15th  of  ^N'ovember  we  suc- 
ceeded, with  the  blessing  of  a  kind  Providence,  in 
finding  a  good  bark  canoe,  and  two  able-bodied  vo2/- 
agcurs.  '  Now  our  goods,  which  had  been  packed  for 
sliipping,  must  be  overhauled,  and  the  bare  indispens- 
ables  packed  ship-shape  for  a  canoe,  and  the  remain- 
der repacked  and  left  till  spring.  The  whole  con- 
stituted no  great  bulk,  as  we  had  no  furniture  of  any 
kind.  "What  little  we  had  once  was  disposed  of  on 
leaving  the  work  below.  And  whether  we  could  get 
chairs,  bedsteads,  tables,  stoves,  crockery,  etc.,  where 
we  were  going,  without  any  thing  to  buy  with,  was  a 
question  that  it  would  not  do  to  try  to  solve.  The 
truth  is,  means  should  have  been  sent  us  on  the  start. 
The  Missionary  Society  had  appropriated  one  hundred 
dollars  toward  our  support  on  condition  we  failed  to 
get  our  pay  from  the  miners.  But  had  the  rigors  to 
which  we  were  constantly  exposed  been  fully  known, 
the  appropriation,  small  as  it  was,  could  have  been 
subject  to  no  such  contingency.  With  eight  dollars 
loaned  us  by  a  friend,  after  a  rough  journey  of  four 
days,  in  which  we  were  buffeted  by  the  elements, 
having,  in  one  place,  for  some  distance,  to  force  our 
way  through  ice  which  had  closed  up  Portage  river, 
we  succeeded  in  reaching  our  new  home,  adoring 
that  kind  and  merciful  Providence  which  had  kept 
us  and  guarded  our  way  at  every  step. 


154  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 


OUR  NEW  FIELD. 

After  being  very  uncomfortablj  situated  for  some 
time  for  want  of  a  lioiise  to  live  in,  a  place  was  at 
length  provided  for  us  by  the  Company.  This  would 
have  been  ready  for  us  on  our  arrival,  but  our  long 
detention  at  Kewawenon  led  the  Company  to  think 
that  wc  were  not  coming,  and  all  the  buildings  had 
been  leased.  On  the  29th  of  November,  much  to  our 
comfort,  we  took  possession  of  our  new  home.  This 
was  a  cabin  built  of  round  logs,  a  story  and  a  half 
high,  divided  below  into  two  apartments  by  a  board 
partition,  with  a  wood-shed  made  of  rough  boards. 
There  was  no  cellar,  or  other  conveniences  about  the 
concern,  except  wdiat  were  included  within  the  build- 
ing. During  the  winter,  when  a  large  body  of  snow 
lay  on  the  roof,  as  was  often  the  case,  the  heat  of 
the  two  stove-pipes,  passing  directly  through  the  roof 
without  chimneys,  and  the  rarified  air  under  the  roof, 
caused  the  snow  to  melt,  and  the  water  running  doAvn 
the  walls  on  the  outside  became  congealed,  which,  on 
thawing,  often  forced  its  way  inside,  and  made  the 
house  wet  and  uncomfortable.  Our  utmost  vigilance 
could  not  wholly  guard  against  this  difficulty.  But 
our  cabin  was  a  much  better  one  than  some  of  our 
neighbors  had,  and  we  have  always  felt  grateful  to 
the  Company  for  giving  us  possession  of  such  a  home. 
It  is  simply  mentioned  here  as  a  specimen  of  back- 
woods life.  Added  to  the  house,  the  Company  kindly 
furnished  us  with  a  cooking-stove  and  other  heavy 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.      ♦  155 

furniture,  whicli  we  were  to  use  free  of  charge,  and 
return  when  clone  with  them.  They  also  filled  our 
bill  of  supplies  in  the  provision  line,  and  charged 
to  my  account  till  it  could  be  canceled.  Mr.  Taylor, 
of  the  Albion  Mine,  kindly  loaned  us  a  box  stove  and 
some  crockery.  Thus  all  our  wants  were  met  in  a 
way  we  had  not  anticipated. 

The  scenes  surrounding  us  were  different  from  any 
to  which  we  had  before  been  accustomed.  Mining 
must  go  on  day  and  night,  the  constant  din  and  bustle 
of  which  is  often  annoying  to  one  unused  to  such 
business.  If  you  retire  at  nine  o'clock  the  bell  ring- 
ing for  a  change  of  sMfts,  at  ten  o'clock,  will  awake 
you.  This  will  be  accompanied  with  the  bustle  of 
men  coming  from  the  mine,  and  fresh  hands  taking 
their  place.  Perhaps  before  you  are  fairly  asleep 
again,  you  will  be  aroused  by  a  car  rumbling  on  a 
track,  from  the  mineral  shed  to  the  stamp-house, 
where  the  mineral  is  precipitated  into  a  large  box,  the 
bottom  of  which  is  an  inclined  plane,  and  thus  con- 
ducted to  the  stamps.  And  then  here  are  these  six 
ponderous  stamps,  propelled  by  steam,  which  are 
crushing  the  mineral  all  night.  Meanwhile  you  may 
hear  the  hammer  and  anvil  and  the  incessant  creak- 
ing of  the  old  ivldm — a  machine  for  raising  copper 
from  the  mine — and  the  report  of  an  occasional 
blast  like  that  of  cannonade.  All  these  things  make 
some  noise,  but  the  frequent  fighting  of  several 
mules,  in  a  barn  near  our  dwelling,  added  to  all  the 
rest,   completes  the  ''confusion  worse   confounded." 


156  LIGHTS   AND.  SHADES   OF 

Such,  in  substance,  were  our  impressions  penned  on 
tlie  spot. 

In  the  period  of  a  year,  matters  had  materially 
changed  on  Point  Kewenaw.  The  two  previous  years 
the  "copper  fever"  had  raged  to  a  great  extent. 
The  country  swarmed  with  persons  who  were  explor- 
ing it,  and  "laying  permits,"  or  "making  claims." 
If  trap  rode  could  be  found  in  any  locality,  having 
veins  of  quartz  or  spar^  with  or  without  copper,  it 
was  thought  to  be  a  "  good  indication,"  and  forthwith 
a  permit  was  laid,  a  company  formed,  and  the  stock 
divided  up  into  shares,  and  these  were  thrown  into 
the  market  for  the  highest  bidder.  Sometimes  gen- 
tlemen from  the  cities,  a  little  flush  with  money,  but 
green  enough,  as  it  regarded  the  geological  forma- 
tions of  that  region,  at  the  sight  of  a  few  rock  ''speci- 
mens,^^ without  ever  having  seen  the  prospective  mine, 
would  eagerly  catch  the  bait  thus  thrown  out.  Per- 
haps, on  more  close  inspection,  the  mine  which  pre- 
sented such  "good  indications,"  was  located  in  some 
cedar  swamp  or  lake. 

But  in  many  places  the  prospect  was  sufficiently 
flattering  to  induce  the  proprietors  to  erect  buildings 
at  considerable  cost  and  prosecute  mining.  But  these 
prospects  becoming  overhung  Avith  doubt,  such  loca- 
tions had,  in  many  instances,  been  abandoned.  The 
ill-directed  attempts  of  persons  who  came  there  and 
expected  to  grasp  an  immediate  fortune,  without 
cither  capital  or  labor,  and  the  extreme  into  which 
speculation   had    been   carried,   were   now   reacting, 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  157 

most  severely,  upon  the  interests  of  the  country.  Sc 
much  so  that  many  persons  abroad  seriously  thought 
mining  operations  on  Lake  Superior  to  be  all  a  "hum- 
bug," undertaken  on  purpose  to  STvindle  men  out  of 
their  money.  This  change  in  the  condition  of  the 
country  tended  materially  to  circumscribe  the  sphere 
of  our  missionary  efforts.  Several  locations  were 
visited  at  different  times  during  the  year,  and  meet- 
ings held  among  the  miners  as  opportunity  offered. 
I  made  one  trip  about  midwinter,  to  the  Kewawenon 
mission,  and  administered  the  ordinances  to  the  peo- 
ple at  the  request  of  the  missionaries,  neither  of 
whom  was  ordained.  In  my  absence  Eev.  J.  W.  Holt, 
from  this  mission,  supplied  my  place.  These  trips 
were  all  made  on  foot,  as  was  the  customary  mode  of 
traveling  by  land.  Excepting  those  occasional  ex- 
cursions abroad,  our  efforts  were  mostly  confined  to 
the  Cliff  Mine  and  vicinity. 

The  mixed  and  unsettled  character  of  the  inhab- 
itants was  not  very  favorable  to  evangelical  effort. 
The  English  miners  were  principally  from  Cornwall, 
England,  and  were  familiarly  known  by  the  title 
'*  Cornish."  Their  dialect,  though  not  so  barbarous 
as  the  Yorkshire,  is  so  different  from  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  of  our  own  land,  that  an  inexperienced  ear  is 
often  at  a  loss  to  determine  what  is  said,  especially  in 
rapid  speech.  The  letter  h,  especially,  is  so  much  in 
the  habit  of  straying  away  from  home  that  he  is  sel- 
dom found  where  he  really  belongs.  He  usually  finds 
about  the  following  connections:  ^^ III  ivill  give  ihe 


158  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OP 

orse  some  Jioats  and  ay.''  In  a  school  wliicli  I  taught 
at  the  Cliff,  during  the  winter,  there  were  some 
scholars  that  I  could  hardly  make  give  the  simple 
sound  of  i,  Tvithout  the  h  going  before.  This  must 
serve  as  a  specimen  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
Queen  trains  her  subjects  to  ''murder  the  King's 
English." 

Many  of  the  miners  were  German  and  Irish. 
Among  the  former  a  few  were  Lutherans ;  the  others, 
with  the  mass  of  the  Irish  population,  adhered  to  the 
Komish  Church.  There  were  also  a  few  Trench  who 
were  Romanists.  Several  of  the  agents,  clerks,  or 
employes  were  our  own  countrymen,  and,  in  general, 
were  well  educated  and  shrewd  business  men.  To 
make  money  was  the  object  which  induced  most  of 
the  inhabitants  to  forego  the  blessings  of  home,  in  a 
better  land,  and  endure  the  privations  and  hardships 
of  the  wilderness.  Many  favored  the  institutions  of 
religion  as  a  matter  of  policy,  as  connected  with 
mining,  who,  so  far  as  their  own  life  and  practice 
were  concerned,  lived  in  entire  neglect  of  their  spir- 
itual interests.  It  is  tacitly  acknowledged,  even  by 
the  most  skeptical,  that  without  the  moral  and  relig- 
ious restraints  of  the  Church,  it  would  be  hard  to 
cantrol  such  men  as  are  generally  employed  to  work 
the  mines. 

Many  of  those  miners  had  families  in  a  distant 
land,  some  across  the  great  Atlantic,  whose  society 
they  had  not  enjoyed  for  years.  A  few  knew  wiiat 
it  was  to  rejoice  in  the  liberty  of  the  Gosiiel.     But 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  159 

several  had  found  their  'svay  mto  that  region  who  had 
once  tasted  of  the  sweets  of  redeeming  love,  but  like 
the  prodigal  had  left  their  Father's  house.  In  this 
wilderness  many  snares  were  but  too  successfully  laid 
for  their  feet.  The  influences  around  them  tended 
to  harden  them  in  their  career  of  backsliding.  Some 
abandoned  themselves  to  drinking  and  gambling,  hunt- 
ing and  fishing,  and  other  amusements  on  the  Lord's 
day.  To  such  the  warning  voice  of  the  Gospel 
seemed  lifted  in  vain.  Vice  and  wickedness  of  va- 
rious kinds  and  degrees  obtained  here  a  luxurious 
growth. 

Our  relisiious  meetings  were  conducted  with  irreat 
inconvenience  for  want  of  a  suitable  place.  The  only 
place  we  could  obtain  at  the  Cliff  was  a  small  school- 
room. The  class  formed  the  year  before  had  been 
broken  up  by  removals.  Soon  after  our  arrival  we 
collected  another  class  of  about  a  dozen  members, 
with  whom,  during  the  year,  we  enjoyed  many  pre- 
cious seasons.  Our  public  meetings  were  often  sea- 
sons of  interest  and  profit;  and,  in  the  midst  of  a  far 
too  general  neglect  of  divine  things,  we  have  reason 
to  believe  that  the  efforts  put  forth  at  that  station, 
in  the  name  of  the  Lord,  were  owned  by  him  to  the 
edification  of  his  people  and  the  advancement  of  his 
cause. 

As  is  the  case  in  many  parts  of  the  country,  it 
was  customary  to  have  dancing  parties  as  an  expe- 
dient to  avoid  the  tedium  of  the  lon^::  winter  nisjhts. 
While  livin.2;  at  the   Cliff  arranixements  were  made 


160  LIGHTS  AND  SHADE  S  OF 

to  have  a  Clii'istmas  ball  at  Eagle  river.  The  mana- 
gers, several  of  whom,  as  men  of  the  world,  the  writer 
and  his  family  had  every  reason  to  respect  for  their 
kind  and  gentlemanly  bearing,  sent  him  a  note  po- 
litely inviting  him  and  his  vrife  to  attend.  The  case 
was  disposed  of  by  the  following  answer: 

«T0  THE   MAXAGEES   OF    THE   CnRISTMAS    BALL,   TO  BE 
HELD    AT    EAGLE    RIVeII: 

^'  Gextlemex, — I  received  your  compliments  to  my- 
self and  wife,  together  with  an  invitation  to  attend 
the  proposed  ball.  The  following  considerations  com- 
pel me  to  decline : 

'^  First.  As  it  would  be  a  heginniyig  with  me. I  should 
cut  an  awkward  figure  in  a  ball-room. 

''Second.  In  the  earlier  stages  of  my  religious  ex- 
perience I  conscientiously  abstained  from  such  amuse- 
ments, as  in  no  way  conducing  to  a  life  of  godliness ; 
it  could  hardly  be  expected  that,  after  professing  to 
be  a  disciple  of  Christ  more  than  twenty  years,  I 
should  be  less  scrupulous. 

"  TJdrcl.  In  addition  to  the  solemn  vows  of  a  private 
Christian,  the  increased  responsibilities  of  a  Gospel 
minister  hir^-e  entirely  unfitted  me  for  such  scenes. 

"Fourth  and  last,  though  not  least,  I  have  been  a 
great  sinner  against  Christ;  it  is,  therefore,  befitting 
in  me  to  hail  the  anniversary  of  his  lowly  advent 
with  sincere  and  deep  penitence  for  the  past;  with 
humble  and  devout  acknowledgments  of  my  present 
want  of  conformity  to  his  will,  and  with  increased 
resolutions,  accompanied  with  prayer  for  Divine  aid, 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  161 

to  finish  my  luorh  as  a  Christian  and  a  minister,  that 
Trlicn  death  comes  to  my  release  I  may  have  no  hitter 
reflections  on  the  past,  and  no  cloud  to  dim  my  pros- 
pect of  the  future.  Whether  I  could  or  could  not 
thus  salute  the  approach  of  Christmas  at  a  ball,  judge 
ye.  With  an  unaffected  regard  for  yom*  best  good 
for  time  and  eternity, 

"I  am,  gentlemen,  yours, 

most  truly  and  affectionately,  etc." 

During  my  residence  among  the  miners  "^e  found 
many  large  and  ^arm  hearts  to  throb  under  the  rough 
exterior.  And  while  the  facts  compel  us  to  speak 
of  many  evils,  many  things  Tvere  found  -worthy  of 
high  commendation.  For  frankness,  warm  and  gen- 
erous sympathy,  and  liberality  to  relieve  the  suffering, 
to  support  the  Gospel,  to  aid  the  cause  of  Sunday 
schools,  or  the  missionary  cause,  we  have  seldom 
known  this  people  to  be  excelled.  They  have  been 
trained  to  acts  of  liberality  and  hospitality  from  chil- 
dren. Convince  them  that  a  noble  charity  is  in  want, 
and  it  will  here  find  a  ready  and  generous  response. 

One  practice  as  connected  with  the  public  worship 
of  God  among  them  we  could  wish  was  generally  in 
use ;  that  is,  congregational  singing.  Xo  people  in 
the  world  are  so  familiar  with  the  Methodist  hymns 
as  our  English  brethren.  And  they  nearly  all  sing. 
The  praises  of  God  as  thus  sung  by  the  whole  con- 
gregation, in  which  the  several  parts  are  generally 
well  sustained,  come  nearest  to   our  notion  of  the 


'lG2  LIGHTS  AND   SUADES  OF 

anthems  of  licaven  of  any  thing  -we  can  conceive-  "    •'  Jj 
Some  of  the  singing  we  have  heard  at  the  Cliff  Mine 
is   often  brought  to  our  remembrance.     With  those 
dear  brethren  ive  hope  by  and  by  to  sing  "the  song 
of  Moses  and  the  Lamb." 


m  iii.-ay 


MISSIONARY   LIFE. 


CHAPTER   X. 

SCENERY  ABOUT  EAGLE   RIYER  AND   THE  CLIFF 
MINE  — SKETCH   OF   THE   MINE. 

"What  is  embraced  in  tliis  chapter,  witli  slight 
variations,  Tvas  penned  on  the  spot  in  the  summer 
of  1848,  and  published  in  the  ^'Christian  A^isitor." 

Eagle  river  is  an  inconsiderable  stream,  except  at 
its  mouth,  emptying  into  Lake  Superior  about  twenty- 
five  miles  vrest  of  Copper  Harbor.  It  derives  its 
name  from  the  Indian  3Ie-ge-ze7i — an  eagle — and  se- 
Ich — a  river.  The  small  town  at  the  mouth  bears 
the  same  name.  The  site  is  an  immense  sand-bank, 
and  has  no  attractiveness.  The  special  want  is  a  good 
harbor,  as  it  forms  the  depot  for  the  Cliff  Mine  and 
several  others,  is  a  central  rallying-point  for  all  parts 
of  the  Lake,  and  necessarily  a  place  of  much  busi- 
ness. A  good  pier,  built  at  great  expense,  supplies, 
in  a  measure,  the  want  of  harbor.  Here  is  a  regular 
preaching-place;  but  no  society  has  been  formed,  and 
no  immediate  prospect  of  one.  Mr.  Atwood  kindly 
opened  his  dining-hall  for  religious  worship,  and,  with 
his  family,  has  shown  us  many  marks  of  favor.  A 
mile''  and  a  half  up  stream  is  what  is  called  Eagle 
River  Diggings.  Here  are  the  Lake  Superior  Compa- 
ny's works — now  abandoned — our  place  of  residence. 


166  LIGHTS   AXD   SHADES   OF 

From  the  Lake,  going  nearly  south  to  the  Cliff,  we 
ascend  gradually  till  we  reach  the  top  of  the  hill,  five 
or  six  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Lake,  two 
and  a  half  miles  inland.  A  road  has  been  constructed 
at  much  expense — still  very  rough  and  uncomfort- 
able. The  wet  places  are  bridged  with  round  logs, 
technically  termed  corduroy.  The  hill-side  is  stony 
and  uneven.  From  the  top  we  have  a  fine  view  of 
Lake  Superior  to  the  north.  Yfhen  the  atmosphere 
is  clear.  Isle  Royal  can  be  seen,  at  a  distance  of 
fifty  miles.  The  land  is  heavily  timbered  with  birch, 
maple,  hemlock,  etc.,  and  well  watered  with  numerous 
springs.  The  soil  is  alluvial,  and  adapted  to  farming 
purposes.  Many  people  get  their  living  by  farming 
in  as  rigid  a  climate  and  on  poorer  soil.  Still  it  is 
granted  that  farming  can  never  become  a  chief  source 
of  industry  or  revenue  in  the  Lake  Superior  region. 

Passing  through  a  defile,  we  gradually  descend,  by 
means  of  a  road  which  winds  around  the  side  of  the 
bluff,  to  the  south.  The  natural  scenery  is  here  highly 
picturesque.  As  you  descend,  to  your  left  is  a  deep 
chasm,  which  forms  the  valley  of  Eagle  river.  Here 
you  look  down  on  the  tops  of  tall  trees,  and  far 
beyond  the  land  rises  to  view  in  mountainous  ranges. 
FIcre  a  cold  spring  gurgles  from  the  Cliff,  and  crosses 
the  road;  there  a  delightful  little  stream  tumbles 
down  the  precipice,  and  makes  music  on  the  ear.  To 
your  right  the  Cliff  now  rises  above  you  in  majesty 
and  grandeur.  At  the  works  the  top  of  the  Cliff  is 
two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  above  the  west  branch 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  167 

of  Eagle  river.  Here  one  •^oiild  suppose  that  nature 
in  one  of  her  freaks,  had  attempted  to  shake  down  the 
mountain ;  for  in  every  direction  lay  broken  masses 
and  heaps  on  heaps  of  the  trap  rock  thrown  down 
from  the  top.  Some  of  these  masses  are  as  large  as 
good-sized  cabins,  and  have  lain  in  their  present  posi- 
tion sufficiently  long  to  support  the  growth  of  good- 
sized  trees.  As  you  look  up  to  the  masses  which 
crop  out  *  at  the  summit,  you  would  naturally  imagine 
that  some  were  just  ready  to  leap  from  their  fast- 
nesses. And  should  they  do  so,  woe  betide  whatever 
was  beneath  them. 

On  the  side  of  this  convulsed  and  rocky  cliff,  in  the 
midst  of  some  of  these  huge  rocks,  are  situated  the 
houses,  shops,  and  works  of  the  miners.  There  is 
here  no  appearance  of  pleasantness  for  a  village, 
environed,  as  it  is,  with  lofty  woodland,  which  inter- 
cepts the  view  in  all  directions.  The  office  and  store 
jomed  together  is  a  pretty  good  building.  Some  of 
the  dwellings  are  tolerably  comfortable,  but  not  built 
with  regard  to  convenience,  or  external  neatness  and 
order.  Necessity  has  been  the  rule,  and  was  a  good 
one  to  begin  with,  but  the  Company  has  opened  on  a 
rich  treasure,  and  will  probably  be  disposed  to  bestow 
more  taste  on  their  future  improvements.  On  our 
arrival  here  we  found  one  hundred  and  forty  persons 
at  work  at  the  Cliff  Mine,  seventy  to  eighty  under 
ground,  and  about  sixty  grasB  hands — a  miner's  term 


*  Thi^  geological  term  was  incorrectly  jirintcd  in  the  Visitor,  cross  out. 

14 


168  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

for  surface  workmen.  Captain  Jennings,  a  master  at 
mining,  was  Agent,  but  succeeded  the  next  summer  by 
Mr.  L.  Hanna,  a  gentleman  well  qualified  for  so  im- 
portant a  charge.  Captain  J.  still  managed  the  prin- 
cipal mining  operations,  while  Mr.  H.  took  a  general 
oversight  of  the  whole  business. 

The  workmen  are  generally  robust  and  hardy,  but 
rough  in  their  appearance  and  manners;  yet,  under 
the  rough  exterior  are  some  noble  minds  and  gener- 
ous hearts.  To  get  a  good  view  of  them  as  they  issue 
from  the  mine,  you  should  be  at  a  prominent  place  at 
the  ringing  of  the  dinner-bell.  You  may  see  them 
coming  from  the  mine,  covered  with  mud  and  dirt, 
and  often  drenched  from  head  to  foot.  Sometimes 
they  leave  their  light  behind  them,  but  often  you  will 
see  a  small  tin  lamp  fastened  to  the  hat,  or  a  piece  of 
candle  in  a  lump  of  wet  clay  attached  to  the  hat — all 
burning.  The  workmen  now,  generally  in  single  file, 
make  a  straight  wake  for  their  boarding-house,  cross- 
ing each  other's  path  in  nearly  all  directions.  If  one 
did  not  know  better  he  would  suppose  them  to  be  in- 
habitants of  a  world  where  the"  sun's  rays  never 
reached ;  and  they  are,  eight  hours  out  of  twenty-four. 

THE    CLIFF   MINE   AS    SEEN    IX   THE    SUMMER    OF   1S4S. 

If  the  kind  reader  is  disposed  to  take  a  peep  into 
some  of  the  wonders  that  are  disclosed  beneath  the 
surface  of  the  earth,  he  may  please  accompany  me 
through  the  Cliff  Mine.  But  before  doing  so  we  Avill 
go   to   the  office  and   form  the   acquaintance  of  the 


I 


I 


MISSIONARY    LIFE.  169 

xlgent,  Mr.  Hanna,  Captain  Jennings,  and  others. 
Thence  you  will  be  desirous  to  visit  the  stamps, 
where  you  will  see  a  large  bank  of  mineral,  stamped 
through  the  winter,  yielding  from  ten  to  twenty  per 
cent,  of  copper.  Several  persons  are  here  employed 
in  washing  copper.  The  stamps  have  lately  been 
somewhat  improved.  They  now  stamp  about  two 
hundred  and  thirty  tuns'^per  month.  In  one  month 
eighty-six  barrels  of  this  copper  were*  washed  and 
barreled  ready  for  shipping. 

Let  us  now  go  partly  up  the  bluff,  into  a  large 
mineral  shed,  where  the  stamp-work  is  first  burned 
in  a  huge  fire,  then  broken  to  pieces,  and  conveyed  to 
the  stamps.  Here  are  also  several  men  engaged  in 
cutting  huge  masses  of  the  pure  copper  into  blocks 
sufficiently  small  to  admit  of  being  transported.  This 
part  is  attended  with  great  labor  and  expense.  A 
wagon  is  driven  along  side  this  shed,  where  these 
masses  are  raised  by  a  crane,  and  thus  swung  into 
the  wagon,  and  di-awn  to  the  Lake.  From  eighty 
to  one  hundred  tuns  of  copper,  including  that  which 
is  barreled,  are  taken  to  the  Lake  monthly. 

"\Ye  will  now  go  up  a  flight  of  stairs  to  another 
large  level,  formed  of  broken  stone  taken  out  of  the 
mine.  Here  is  a  machine,  worked  by  two  horses,  to 
pump  out  the  mine.  Adjoining  this  is  what  is  called 
a  ichim — the  Cornish  say  wim.  This  is  a  large  per- 
pendicular cylinder,  turned  by  horse  power,  as  tan- 
ners grind  bark.  A  large  rope  is  wound  around  this 
cylinder,  with  a  large   bucket   at   each   end,   which 


170  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES    OF 

connects  Avitli  shaft  No.  1,  to  raise  the  rock  and  min- 
eral.    To  your  right  is  a  blacksmith-shop,  used  mostly 
for  sharpening  drills.     To  the  north  is  another  ma- 
chine connected  with  shaft  No.  1,  called  a  sheer;  it 
should    be    sheers.      {Vide   Webster's    Dictionary.) 
This  machine  gives  a  power  sufficient  to  raise   ten 
tuns  weight.     With  this  the  large  masses  of  copper 
are  taken  out  of  the  mine.     A  little  to  the  left,  over- 
head, is    another  whim,   which  connects   with   shaft 
No.   2,   twenty-eight   yards   north   of   No.   1.      You 
may  now  turn  to  the  right,  and  follow  a  rail-track 
through  another  mineral  shed,  where  all  the  broken 
rock   of   a   poorer   quality  is   taken,    and   the   pre- 
cious  separated  from  the  vile.      As  we   turn   about 
to   see  whence   all  this  treasure  is  taken,   you  will 
naturally  cast  your  eyes  up  the  bluff,  where  you  may 
see  a  large   opening  which   once   contained  a  great 
mass   of   copper.     You  will   notice   also   a   slide   of 
greenstone,  dipping  to  the  north  at  an  angle  of  per- 
haps 45°.      This  occasions  a  fault  in  the  vein,  at 
which  the  mineral  ceases. 

Before  going  into  the  mine  we  must  return  to  the 
office  to  get  a  change  of  apparel.  If  you  are  at  all 
careful  about  your  velvet  or  broadcloth,  you  must 
doff  it  before  you  go  under  ground.  You  want  a 
complete  miner's  suit  from  head  to  foot.  Then  you 
must  have  the  safe  conduct  of  Captain  Jennings  or 
Boss  Jones,  who  will  see  that  each  one  is  furnished 
with  a  candle,  and  a  lump  of  wet  clay  to  put  around 
it,  which  you  must  keep  moist.     Thus  equipped  we 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  171 

Avill  now  go  into  drift  Xo.  1,  which  is  on  a  level  with 
most  of  the  works  we  have  been  viewing;  only  ho 
careful,  in  passing  hy  Xo.  2,  not  to  step  off  tho 
plank  into  the  depths  below.  Here  you  may  go  in 
several  hundred  feet,  where  not  much  is  to  be  seen, 
except  the  empty  space  where  the  mineral  has  been 
removed. 

We  will  now  return  to  shaft  Xo.  1,  and  go  below, 
sixty  feet,  into  the  Adit.  This  is  a  drift  extending 
from  the  river  nine  hundred  feet  north,  and  is  used 
for  draining  the  mine.  Let  it  now  be  remembered 
that  we  must  descend  by  ladders,  several  of  which 
are  nearly  perpendicular,  and  one  quite  so.  You 
must  now  pull  off  your  gloves — if  you  have  any 
on — and  do  not  be  afraid  of  soiling  your  hands  as 
you  hold  on  to  the  muddy  rounds  of  the  ladder.  As 
you  follow  your  guide,  you  must  learn  this  lesson, 
and  not  forget  it  for  a  moment:  '^ Hold  fast  ivith 
your  Jiands — never  mind  your  feetJ^  As  we  go  down 
we  occasionally  come  on  to  a  small  platform,  and,  by 
simply  turning  round,  we  take  hold  of  another  ladder. 
But  you  must  not  let  go  one  ladder  till  you  see  where 
you  are ;  a  single  misstep  may  precipitate  you  down 
the  main  shaft  from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred 
feet.  We  now  find  ourselves  safely  in  the  Adit.  This 
is  called  the  ten  fathom  level,  or  drift  Xo.  2.  The 
course  of  the  vein  is  nearly  north  and  south,  dipping 
slightly  to  the  east. 

From  shaft  Xo.  1  we  will  now  go  north,  passing 
over  a  pit  fifteen   or  twenty  feet  deep,  where  the 


172  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

mineral  has  been  remoyed.  Soon  Tve  shall  reach 
shaft  No.  2,  "^hich  we  "will  cross  on  planks,  on  one 
side,  holding  on  to  an  iron  bar  fastened  to  the  rock 
on  each  side.  At  the  north  extremity  of  this  drift 
is  a  mass  of  copper  which  has  been  thrown  down  by 
a  sand-blast,  which  will  probably  weigh  from  thirty 
to  fifty  tmis.  This  must  be  cut  to  pieces  with  chisels 
before  it  can  be  taken  out.  Overhead  you  will  see, 
in  many  places,  what  is  called  a  stuU,  or  pent-Jioiise. 
This  consists  of  heavy  timbers  placed  across  the  mine 
so  as  to  form  a  scaffold.  In  this  way  the  lode  is  all 
approached,  and  removed  from  one  drift  to  another, 
ten  fathoms,  or  sixty  feet.  This  stulling  is  often  torn 
down  by  heavy  blasts,  and  is  one  source  of  the 
danger  of  miners.  In  going  south  we  will  see  noth- 
ing very  different  from  what  is  to  be  seen  north, 
except  that  there  the  lode  is  not  so  rich  as  here. 

T'inding  our  way  to  shaft  No.  1,  we  will  again  go 
doAvn  sixty  feet  to  drift  No.  3.  The  appearance  here 
is  very  similar  to  that  in  drift  No.  2.  Every-where 
you  have  evidences  of  an  inconceivably  rich  mine. 
In  places  you  will  find  the  lode  entirely  removed; 
then  you  will  pass  huge  masses  of  mineral  not  yet 
disturbed.  North  of  shaft  No.  2  we  pass  a  chain- 
ladder,  which,  if  you  are  fond  of  adventure,  you  may 
ascend  five  or  six  fathoms  into  a  large  opening  in 
the  mine.  A  little  farther  on  we  cross  over  a  tfjinze, 
which  is  a  communication  from  one  drift  to  another 
to  air  the  mine.  This  is  soon  to  be  used  for  a  third 
shaft.     The  whole  length  of  this  drift,  from  north  to 


MISSIONxVRY   LIFE.  173 

Boutb,  is  about  one  hundred  and  ten  yards.  If  your 
curiosity  is  not  yet  satisfied,  we  may  go  down  sixty 
feet  further,  into  drift  No.  4.  In  the  extreme  end 
north,  after  crawling  on  your  hands  and  knees  for 
some  distance,  over  what  miners  call  deads — that  is, 
broken  rock — you  find  yourself  in  a  large  opening, 
where  is  the  appearance  of  a  large  mass  of  copper. 
The  mine  in  this  region  is  very  rich.  In  this  drift, 
among  the  many  things  too  tedious  to  name,  we 
notice  what  is  called  the  sumjy-sJiaft.  This  is  only 
a  continuation  of  shaft  Xo.  1,  eighteen  feet  below 
the  lower  level.  This,  as  the  others,  is  to  be  sunk 
sixty  feet  before  drifting  again.  The  Captain  is 
much  elated  with  the  prospect  here,  and  promises 
for  the  next  sixty  feet  to  show  the  richest  part  of 
the  mine.  In  what  is  called  the  country — that  is,  by 
the  side  of  the  vein — a  mass  of  copper  has  been 
taken  out  weighing  fifteen  hundred  pounds.  The 
material  is  here  raised  to  the  lower  drift  by  a  wind- 
lass. A  short  time  since  I  was  visiting  the  mine, 
and,  being  desirous  to  see  the  bottom,  my  friend  J. 
let  me  down  in  a  bucket.  But  the  miners  having 
stopped  work,  water  had  collected  two  or  three  feet 
deep  in  the  bottom.  The  first  warning  I  had  of  this 
was  the  impression  of  wet  feet  as  the  tub  was  filling 
with  water.     This  Boss  Jones  called  siimpen. 

The  most  agreeable  time  to  go  into  the  mine  is 
Monday  morning  when  the  work  commences,  or  Sat- 
urday afternoon  after  the  miners  quit  work.  The 
mmc  is  then  free  from   smoke.   'But  if  you  choose 


174  EIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

to  go  ■v\^hen  all  are  at  work,  you  will  see  more.  Hero 
you  may  see  a  person  liolding  a  huge  drill,  and  an- 
other with  a  large  hammer,  making  every  stroke  tell 
on  the  hard  rock.  There  you  may  see  several  men, 
with  levers,  at  work  at  a  mass  which  has  been  torn 
loose  by  a  sand-blast.  Here  you  may  see  one  wheel- 
ing the  rock,  and  throwing  it  doT»ai  through  a  QiiiUy 
where  it  is  taken  by  others,  put  into  buckets,  and 
raised  to  the  surface.  In  different  parts  of  the  mine 
you  will  hear  the  blast,  the  report  of  which  rolls 
like  thunder  through  the  subterranean  vaults.  A 
dismal  gloom  seems  to  pervade  the  whole  region, 
and  at  every  turn  you  will  be  impressed  with  the 
fact  that  few  men  are  so  exposed  to  danger  as  miners. 
But  what  above  every  thing  else  should  impress  every 
one  is  the  evidence  of  the  wisdom,  goodness,  and 
power  of  God,  above,  beneath,  and  all  around. 

Doubtless  you  are  as  ready  now  to  leave  the  mine 
as  you  were  to  enter  it.  We  have  now  one  hundred 
and  eighty  feet  of  ladder  to  climb;  but,  by  persever- 
ance, stopping  a  moment  occasionally  to  take  breath, 
we  shall  soon  be  at  the  top.  Now  we  emerge  from 
a  world  of  darkness  into  a  world  of  light.  ^Ye  may 
now  return  to  the  office,  and  assume  our  own  attire, 
by  which  time  it  would  be  no  very  strange  thing  if  a 
good  meal  would  relish  well.  If  the  reader  thinks 
this  description  of  the  Cliff  Mine  too  minute,  it  may 
be  a  source  of  relief  that  this  must  suffice  for  all  the 
other  mines  of  Lake  Superior — to  explore  one  thor- 
oughly is  to  see  the  leading  features  of  all  the  rest. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  175 


CHAPTER   XI. 

INTERVAL   OF  C 0 N F E R E N CE  —  APPO I XT M E N T 

TO   THE   INDIAN  MISSION  DISTRICT, 

AND   REMOVAL   TO   THE    SAUT. 

August  18tli,  we  foui\d  ourselves  at  the  close  of 
anotlier  conference  year,  and  on  board  the  propeller 
Independence.  I  had  left  to  attend  the  annual  con- 
ference which  was  to  meet  at  Kalamazoo  on  the  6th 
of  September.  My  family  accompanied  me  as  far  as 
Copper  Harbor,  where,  at  midnight,  we  parted.  They 
would  have  continued  with  me  but  for  the  extremely 
delicate  health  of  Mrs.  P.  Mr.  D.  D.  Brockway  had 
kindly  invited  them  to  remain  under  his  roof,  where, 
with  Mrs.  Brockway,  they  were  sure  to  have  not  only 
a  hearty  welcome,  but  every  necessary  attention.  I 
feel  called  upon  thus  publicly  to  acknowledge  the 
kindness  shown  to  my  family  in  the  few  weeks  of 
their  stay  at  Mrs.  Brockway's. 

A   DELIGHTFUL   SABEATH   AT   SEA. 

August  20th,  Sabbath,  was  a  clear  and  delightful 

day.     The   following  minute  was  made  at  the  time: 

"Wind  dead  ahead  ever  since  we   started,  but   not 

enough  to  make  a  rough  sea.     We  are  in  sight  of 

White  Fish  Point,  about  twelve  miles  off.     This  has 
15 


176  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

been  more  like  Sabbath  to  me  than  any  I  bave  before 
seen  on  the  Lake.  I  have  seen  no  ungentlemanlj  be- 
havior among  either  crew  or  passengers.  I  felt  desir- 
ous, and  prayed  yesterday  and  this  morning,  that 
some  door  of  usefulness  might  be  opened  to  me  on 
board.  Have  put  a  number  of  good  tracts  in  circula- 
tion, which,  in  several  instances,  were  thankfully 
received.  At  about  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  I  had  the 
privilege  of  conducting  divine  worship  on  board.  We 
sung  first, 

'  From  all  that  dwell  below  the  skies.' 

After  prayer  and  the  reading  of  part  of  the  hundred 
and  seventh  Psalm,  we  sung  the  second  part  of  the 
hymn,  'to  be  sung  at  sea,'  beginning, 

*  Infinite  God,  thy  greatness  spann'd.' 

I  strove  as  well  as  I  could  to  preach  Christ  crucified, 
to  present  the  cross  in  its  spiritual  import  and  bear- 
ings. I  opened  my  mouth  and  the  Lord  filled  it.  Ey 
the  serious  attention  paid  I  trust  it  was  a  word  not 
spoken  in  vain.  We  then  joined  in  singing  the  cele- 
brated missionary  hymn, 

'From  Greenland's  icy  mountain.' 

Rev.  J.  W.  Holt,  from  Kewawenon,  made  an  appro- 
priate closing  prayer,  and  the  congregation,  consist- 
ing of  about  thirty  souls,  were  dismissed  and  quietly 
retired. 

"  In  the  afternoon  I  had  an  interesting  conversation 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  177 

witli  ^Y,  II.  B.,  one  of  the  sailors.  He  is  one  wlio 
was  rescued  from  the  wreck  of  the  Barbara.  He  has 
sailed  twenty-five  years  on  salt  water  and  three  on 
fresh — has  witnessed  many  perils  and  dangers.  He 
had  sailed  under  Father  Taylor,  and  sat  with  delight 
under  his  preaching.  He  says  he  is  not  destitute  of 
the  comforts  of  religion.  An  old  backslider,  who 
once  belonged  to  the  Methodists,  B.,  opened  to  me 
the  state  of  his  mind,  while  tears  ran  down  his  wrin- 
kled and  care-worn  cheeks.  I  gave  him  such  instruc- 
tion as  I  thought  best  suited  his  case.  0  that  God 
may  lead  him  to  the  foot  of  the  cross !  Beside  my 
regular  Bible  lessons,  I  was  edified  in  the  perusal  of 
a  tract  and  three  of  Bishop  Morris's  sermons.  Judge 
Hawes  and  his  excellent  wife  are  on  board,  who  exert 
a  commanding  influence,  happily,  in  favor  of  religion." 
For  such  a  Sabbath  at  sea  I  felt  that  I  could  not  be 
sufficiently  grateful,  especially  as  I  had,  in  several 
instances,  witnessed  such  shocking  desecration  of  the 
Lord's  day  on  similar  occasions. 

On  reaching  the  Saut,  I  was  urged  by  the  super- 
intendent to  remain  here,  instead  of  going  to  confer- 
ence, to  look  after  the  interests  of  the  mission.  There 
were  good  reasons  why  the  missionaries  should  not 
all  be  absent  at  this  time;  and,  though  at  tlie  sac- 
rifice of  inclination,  I  abandoned  going  to  conference, 
and  remained  at  the  Saut.  The  families  of  brothers 
Brockway  and  Barnum  remained  at  Little  Bapids 
during  this  interval,  where  I  found  a  most  agreeable 
home. 


178  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES  OF 

Mv  time  "^as  spent  very  pleasantly  in  reading, 
writing,  visiting,  and  attending  to  sucli  duties  as 
grew  out  of  my  calling.  Several  of  those  pastoral 
visits  among  afflicted  and  poor  families  on  both  sides 
of  the  river  were  seasons  of  edification  to  my  own 
soul;  for  here  I  saw,  in  one  or  two  instances  espe- 
cially, the  support  that  our  holy  religion  can  give 
when  earthly  refuge  fails. 

I  spent  four  Sabbaths  here,  during  which  I  preached 
to  the  white  citizens  of  the  village  part  of  the  day, 
and  the  other  part  to  the  Indians  at  Little  Rapids. 
Much  of  the  time,  as  is  often  the  case  here  at  this 
season,  we  had  very  driving  and  cold  easterly  rain- 
storms. The  weather  was  very  disagreeable,  and  our 
meetings  were  thinly  attended.  I  here  formed  the 
acquaintance  of  Colonel  M"Xair,  the  mineral  agent. 
Dr.  Patterson,  Judge  Hunt,  Mr.  Whiting— all  con- 
nected in  some  way  with  the  business  of  the  land- 
office — and  Colonel  M'Knight,  at  whose  Cjuarters  in 
Port  Brady  I  was  made  welcome. 

The  following  thoughts  were  suggested  by  our 
meeting  at  Little  Rapids  on  the  evening  of  Sep- 
tember 10th:  "Much  is  said  about  the  poor  Indians; 
their  slowness  in  making  improvement.  But  I  was 
led  to  contrast  the  actual  condition  of  the  natives 
vdth  the  whites  of  this  res-ion.  At  the  villao-e  the 
Gospel  has  been  preached  by  difi'erent  missionaries 
for  the  last  twenty  years — some  of  them  talented 
and  powerful  preachers;  but  at  this  time  there  is 
not  a  Protestant  society  in  the  place,  and  only  a  few 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  179 

scattered  members  to  represent  several  Churches. 
If  the  Christian  desires  a  spiritual  feast,  let  him 
turn  in  and  visit  the  mission  at  Little  Rapids.  Here 
is  a  little  band  decently  clad  and  neat  in  their  ap- 
pearance ;  but  we  see  no  external  pomp  or  parade — 
no  artificials  or  studied  decorations  to  please  the  eye 
or  attract  the  notice  of  spectators.  Each  one,  with 
a  solemn  and  reverential  step,  comes  to  the  house 
of  prayer,  exhibiting  by  his  demeanor  that  he  is 
entering  a  place  where  God  manifests  his  presence. 
A  seriousness  becoming  the  time  and  place  is  seen 
in  each  countenance.  It  is  a  rare  thing  to  see  a 
smile,  much  less  that  airy  vanity  often  witnessed  in 
white  congregations.  They  sing  with  the  spirit,  and 
jDray  with  great  simplicity  and  earnestness.  That 
saying  of  the  Savior  was  forcibly  brought  to  mind, 
as  applied  to  the  Jews:  "Ye  shall  see  Abraham,  and 
Isaac,  and  Jacob,  and  all  the  prophets  in  the  king- 
dom of  God,  and  you  yourselves  thrust  out.  And 
they  shall  come  from  the  east,  and  from  the  west, 
and  from  the  north,  and  from  the  south,  and  shall 
sit  down  in  the  kingdom  of  God," 

On  the  16th  of  September  I  received  intelligence 
from  conference  up  to  the  11th  inst.,  but  no  hint 
as  to  our  future  destiny.  The  same  day,  by  an  arri- 
val from  above,  I  received  word  from  my  family. 
Their  situation  rendered  it  necessary  for  me  to  return 
to  Copper  Harbor  by  the  first  boat.  And  this  I  must 
do,  still  in  the  dark  as  to  our  appointment. 

Tuesday,  September  19th,  by  propeller,  I  left  the 


180  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES    OF 

Saut.  We  were  out  t^^o  days,  and  had  to  return 
again  on  account  of  adverse  -vyeather.  Friday  we 
again  went  aboard,  and  were  off  once  more.  Our 
boat  was  heavily  laden,  and  a  large  number  of  pas- 
sengers aboard,  of  almost  every  description.  The 
night  following  was  to  the  sober  part  of  the  com- 
pany a  most  unpleasant  night,  on  account  of  some 
•"'lewd  fellows  of  the  baser  sort,"  whose  obscene  and 
disorderly  behavior  was  scarcely  endurable.  And 
this  the  more  so  because  there  were  aboard  gentle- 
men and  ladies  vrhose  presence,  if  nothing  more, 
should  have  commanded  respect  and  decent  behavior 
from  the  most  abandoned. 

Among  the  passengers  was  Mr.  Eichmond,  the 
Indian  Agent,  and  his  brother,  on  their  way  to  La 
Pointe  to  mahe  the  Indian  payment.  Here  was  Mr. 
Ramsay  Crooks,  a  noble-looking  man,  who  figures 
largely  in  Irving's  "Astoria.*'  After  all  his  perils 
in  and  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  he  appeared  to 
possess  the  vigor  and  sprightliness  of  youth.  On 
board  were  the  editor  of  the  Lake  Superior  News 
and  lady,  and  numerous  others  bound  for  La  Pointe; 
also  brother  K.  and  wife  on  their  way  to  the  Onton- 
agon, with  Mr.  S.,  pale  and  blanched  with  the  ague. 
It  had  given  him  a  cruel  shaking  on  the  lakes.  Here 
was  also  Mrs.  L.  Hanna,  wife  of  the  Agent  of  the 
Cliff  Mine,  with  her  three  little  children,  going  to 
meet  her  husband  after  a  long  separation.  She  had 
just  buried  her  aged  mother  and  her  youngest  daugh- 
ter, and  was  to  be  the  bearer  of  this  mournful  news 


I 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  181 

to  her  companion.  How  sad  such  a  meeting  in  vie\T 
of  the  missing  ones  ! 

Saturday  night  Tve  had  a  very  rough  sea,  and  the 
boat  rolled  and  tumbled  amazingly.  But  the  rough- 
ness of  the  Lake  quieted,  in  a  good  degree,  the  tur- 
bulence of  some  of  the  j^assengers.  The  Christian 
can  much  easier  endure  the  raging  of  the  sea  than 
the  raging  of  those  who  are  "foaming  out  theu'  own 
shame."  This  trip  was,  in  almost  every  respect,  in 
perfect  contrast  with  our  downward  trip.  But  just 
at  daybreak  on  Sabbath  morning  we  arrived  at  Copper 
Harbor,  and  found  all  as  well  as  could  have  been 
expected. 

Odoher  5.  We  had  an  arrival  at  Copper  Harbor, 
bringing  word  that  I  was  appointed  superintendent 
of  the  missions  in  the  district,  and  was  urged  by 
brother  Brockway  to  come  immediately  to  the  Saut. 
But-  on  account  of  the  situation  of  Mrs.  P.,  this  was 
impracticable. 

Though  not  without  risk,  I  took  passage  for  Eagle 
Harbor,  where  I  was  landed  with  difficulty  on  account 
of  a  strong  south-west  wind.  The  next  morning  I 
walked  nine  miles,  to  the  mouth  of  Eagle  river,  before 
breakfast;  thence  to  the  Diggings,  where  we  had 
resided  during  the  summer;  packed  up  our  things, 
and  had  all  down  to  the  Lake,  marked  and  ready  for 
shipping,  by  nine  o'clock  at  night.  Much  fatigued,  I 
relished  the  kindly  influences  of 

"Tired  nature's  sweet  restorer, 
Balmy  sleep." 


182  LIGHTS  AXDSHxVDES   OF 

Saturday  I  obtained  a  horse,  and  rode  as  far  as 
Eagle  Harbor,  and  walked  the  rest  of  the  way  to 
Copper  Harbor.  My  feelings  in  view  of  the  future 
were  thus  expressed  at  the  time : 

"  In  looking  ahead  I  see  a  world,  in  miniature,  of 
labor -and  responsibility.  In  God  alone  is  mj  trust. 
Aided  by  him  I  shall  succeed.  And  how  can  I  fail 
of  his  aid,  if  I  hold  on  to  his  word  and  promise! 
Our  way  looks  dark  in  some  respects;  but  how  often 
have  I  been  consoled  by  that  passage,  'All  things 
work  together  for  good  to  them  that  love  the  Lord!' 
I  hold  on  to  this  promise.  Though  I  can  not  see  the 
end,  I  am  sure  it  will  turn  out  for  the  best  in  some 
way.  Here  then  I  rest,  and  find  an  inward  tran- 
quillity which  I  would  not  exchange  for  an  earthly 
crown. 

''3Io7iday  9.  This  morning  Mrs.  P.  was  delivered 
of  an  interesting  little  son.  I  think  we  have  real- 
ized an  answer  to  many  prayers.  She  came  out  of 
this  trial  beyond  our  most  sanguine  hopes.  May  we 
ever  magnify  and  praise  thee,  0  our  heavenly  Father, 
who  art  our  ever-present,  ever-sufficient  help  in  time 
of  need! 

''  October  10.  The  Chippewa  arrived  from  the 
Said,  bound  for  Fond  du  Lac,  with  brother  Holt  and 
wife,  the  missionaries  for  that  station;  and  brother 
P.  0.  Johnson  and  family,  bound  for  Saut  Ste.  Marie, 
to  be  helpers  with  us  there." 

This  was  providential,  as  I  could  not  yet  leave  for 
the  Saut.     Brother  Johnson  acted  as  my  deputy,  in 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  183 

receiving  tlie  papers  and  other  things  belonging  to 
the  mission  from  brother  Brockway. 

A  sad  affair  occurred  at  the  Harbor  the  same  day. 
A  young  man  came  there  a  few  days  before,  from  the 
mines.  He  had  in  his  pocket  about  seventeen  dol- 
hirs,  "svhich  he  spent  in  gambling  and  drinking. 
Monday  night  he  came  from  a  liquor-shop,  near  by, 
to  the  Brockway  House,  where  we  were  stopping, 
crying  murder,  and  calling  to  Mr.  B.  to  let  him  in, 
saying  that  C.  was  going  to  kill  him.  He  was 
brought  in  and  sent  up  stairs  to  bed.  But  he  raved, 
as  most  any  other  person  would  do  under  the  influ- 
ence of  delirium  tremens.  He  quieted  down  toward 
morning,  and  nothing  unusual  was  seen  in  his  ap- 
pearance during  the  forenoon.  But  about  noon  he 
started,  in  front  of  the  Brockway  House,  and  ran 
with  all  his  might,  and  plunged  into  the  Harbor, 
into  deep  water,  and  went  to  the  bottom  like  a 
stone.  Efforts  were  speedily  made  to  rescue  him, 
but,  before  he  could  be  taken  out,  his  spirit  had 
fled  to  the  retributions  of  eternity! 

October  11th  the  Fur  Trader  arrived,  bound  for 
the  Saut,  via  Kewawenon.  Brother  Marksman  and 
wife,  who  were  to  be  our  associates  at  the  Saut,  were 
aboard,  and  a  number  of  our  Indian  brethren  resid- 
ing at  Kewawenon.  Most  of  the  afternoon  was  spent 
in  conversation  with  them.  Brother  Johnson  left  the 
same  day  for  the  Saut. 

During  the  time  I  was  detained  here  I  went  again 
to  Eagle  river,  and  spent  a  Sabbath  at  the  Cliff  Mine, 


184  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

preaching  and  administering  the  sacrament  of  the 
Lord's  supper. 

October  24th  the  Independence  arrived  at  Copper 
Harbor,  on  her  downward  course  to  the  Saut.  Two 
weeks  had  just  elapsed  since  Mrs.  P.'s  confinement, 
and  it  appeared  hazardous  to  commit  ourselves  to  the 
mercy  of  storms;  but  trusting  that  a  good  Providence 
would  ^'temper  the  winds  to  the  shorn  lamb,"  w^e 
went  aboard  and  bade  adieu  to  the  Harbor,  and 
reached  the  Saut  in  safety  on  the  27th  instant. 
Here  Mr.  J.  R.  Livingston  kindly  furnished  me  with 
horse  and  a  comfortable  buggy,  with  which  I  con- 
veyed my  family  to  the  mission  at  Little  Rapids, 
where,  for  the  present,  associated  with  Rev.  P.  0. 
Johnson's  family,  w^e  made  our  home.  Shortly  after 
Mrs.  P.  was  taken  suddenly,  and,  as  we  then  thought, 
dangerously  ill.  But  she  was  soon  relieved  and  grad- 
ually recovered  her  strength. 

The  change  of  missionaries  all  round,  as  might  be 
expected,  tended  greatly  to  derange  matters  for  a 
while.  But  we  hoped,  with  God's  blessing,  soon  to 
briuG;  some  kind  of  order  out  of  the  confusion  around 
us.  Our  winter's  supplies  must  yet  be  ordered  from 
Detroit,  and  we  found  much  to  do  to  prepare  for 
winter. 

It  seemed  not  only  desirable  but  indeed  necessary, 
in  vievf  of  the  situation  of  the  work,  that  we  should 
reside  at  the  village.  The  Fort  w\as  now  without 
troops.  Sergeant  Gent,  to  whose  care  Fort  Brady 
was  consigned,  kindly  ofiered  us  quarters,  rent  free, 


I 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  185 

during  the  -^vinter.  We  gladly  embraced  his  offer, 
and  took  possession  of  our  new  home  on  the  27th  of 
iS^ovember,  when  I  made  this  note:  "How  transient 
is  our  stay  in  any  one  place!  Well,  we  shall  soon 
be  done  with  earth,  and  it  matters  but  little,  so  that 
we  have  '  a  house  not  made  with  hands,  eternal  in  the 
heavens.'" 

We  had  just  become  settled  in  the  *Fort  when  a 
most  sad  event  occurred  near  us.  An  Indian  by  the 
name  of  Xahbenaosh,  whose  residence  was  at  Little 
Rapids,  who  had  never  abandoned  his  heathenism, 
and  who  had  been  accustomed  to  become  intoxicated, 
came  at  last  to  a  dreadful  end.  On  the  last  night  of 
November,  a  cold  wintery  night,  he  had  turned  away 
from  the  place  where  some  one,  who  had  the  physical 
form  and  carriage  of  a  man,  had  filled  his  bottle  with 
the  liquid  poison.  He  found  his  way  to  a  deserted 
wigwam,  on  the  road  to  Little  Rapids.  Here,  in  some 
way,  he  set  the  wigwam  on  fire,  which  burned  down 
over  his  besotted  frame,  crisping  and  shockingly 
mutilating  it.  The  next  morning  a  bottle  was  found 
by  his.  side,  telling,  truthfully,  the  cause  of  this  wreck 
and  ruin  of  another  deathless  immortal!  On  the 
2d  of  December,  a  windy  and  snowy  day,  I  saw 
the  Indians  deposit  his  remains  in  the  grave,  while  a 
son,  a  devoted  Christian,  wept  tears  of  inconsolable 
grief  over  one  he  had  once  been  wont  to  call  father! 
Such  melancholy  facts  are  most  painful  to  record,  yet 
they  are  fads,  in  the  midst  of  which  we  were  called 
to  move,  and  of  which  we  were,  at  times,  eye-wit- 


186  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

nesses,  and  -^'itliout  their  mention  the  reader  can 
hardly  appreciate  the  influences  that  operated  tc 
impoverish  and  ruin  the  Indians,  soul  and  body.  In 
the  light  of  such  speaking  facts  it  is  easy  to  perceive 
-who  are  the  true  friends  of  the  red  man. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  187 


r 


CHAPTER   XII. 

TRAVELS    AMONG    THE    INDIANS    DURING 
THE    WINTER. 

I  MADE  one  visit,  during  the  winter,  to  the  Indian 
settlement  at  Garden  River,  Canada,  now  under  the 
care  of  Rev.  Mr.  Anderson,  of  the  Episcopal  Church. 
llj  old  friends  appeared  very  glad  to  see  me;  and, 
at  the  request  of  the  missionary,  I  preached  to  them. 

I  made  two  very  interesting  trips  to  Naomikong, 
liake  Superior,  some  thirty-five  miles  from  the  Saut, 
which  I  think  deserving  of  a  more  particular  account. 

January  5th,  1849,  in  company  with  brother  Marks- 
man, I  left  home  after  noon.  Rode  in  a  one-horse 
cutter  eisjht  miles.  P.  Gr.  returned  with  the  horse 
and  cutter,  and  with  our  blankets,  camp  kettle,  and 
provisions,  Vve  went  on  afoot.  Faced  a  cold  and 
blustery  wind,  and  the  ice  was  very  smooth,  so  that 
we  could  scarcely  keep  to  our  feet.  A  poor  Dutch- 
man, on  the  same  route,  with  boots  instead  of  moc- 
casins, came  near  perishing,  as  we  afterward  learned. 
He  turned  aside  and  spent  the  night  in  the  woods, 
without  fire,  and  but  thinly  clad.  He  made  out  to 
reach  a  house  the  next  day,  and  was  thus  saved.  We 
arrived  safely  at  Waishkees  Bay  just  before  dark. 
Found  here  a  tolerably-comfortable  cedar-bark  wig- 


188  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

TV  am.  The  two  men  tvIio  had  left  the  Saut  in  com- 
pany -with  the  Dutchman  were  here,  and  had  a  fire 
for  our  accommodation.  TVe  immediately  went  to 
work  with  our  hatchets  and  provided  wood  for  the. 
nicrht.  Notwithstanding  the  cold  we  should  have  slept 
pretty  well,  but  for  the  smoke  which  drove  into  the 
lodge. 

January  6.  After  a  hard  walk  of  five  hours, 
through  woods  most  of  the  way,  and  on  snow-shoes, 
we  reached  Carp  river.  Here  was  a  saw-miil,  a  French 
family,  two  or  three  Americans,  and  a  few  Indians — 
the  "Waishkees.  As  they  were  old  acquaintances  they 
were  very  glad  to  see  us,  and  we  must  drink  with 
them  some  sJiah-gah-mit-ta — hot  drink,  either  tea  or 
coffee.  To  this  proposal  we  readily  acceded,  eating 
with  our  tea  some  bread  and  pork.  Then  we  had 
a  season  of  prayer,  and  resumed  our  journey.  A 
stiff  cold  wind  was  in  our  faces,  and  the  ice,  most 
of  the  way,  was  jammed  together,  nearly  perpendic- 
ular like  knives,  and  made  it  hard  walking  and  trying 
to  our  feet.  Reached  Naomikong  before  night,  and 
put  up  with  my  old  friend,  3Ionomonee,  the  chief, 
lately  from  Grand  Island.  Here  were  two  other  quite 
good  log^houses,  and  the  Indians,  generally,  appeared 
comfortably  situated.  Several  called  to  see  us,  and 
kept  us  talking  till  the  evening  was  spent. 

Sabbath  a  good  congregation  collected  to  hear  the 
word  of ►  the  Lord.  They  were  well  clad,  and  very 
attentive  whilq  I  preached  them  a  plain,  practical 
sermon  from   "the  grace  of  God  that  bringeth  sal- 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  189 

vation  to  all  men  hath  appeared,"  etc.  The  Lord 
was  present  to  bless.  After  noon  brother  Marksman 
preached  on  the  parable  of  ^'the  barren  fig  tree." 
This  was  also  called  a  season  of  spmtual  profit.  The 
prayer  meeting  at  night  was  a  season  owned  of  God. 
There  was  no  flagging ;  both  the  singing  and  praying 
•were  in  the  spirit.  I  gave  out  an  appointment  for 
the  next  morning,  at  the  close  of  which  I  had  designed 
to  leave  for  home.  But  on  dismissing  the  congre- 
gation I  was  urged  to  go  on  to  Te-quah-me-non,  some 
five  miles  farther.  It  was  said  that  the  Indians  there 
were  very  desirous  that  we  should  visit  them.  We 
had  three  or  four  members  there — several  persons 
were  sick — one  or  two  desired  to  be  baptized,  etc. 
To  this  call  we  felt  constrained  to  yield. 

On  returning  to  Monomonee's  from  the  meeting, 
we  had  an  illustration  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
Indians  prize  a  writing.  Three  years  before,  when 
I  had  visited  his  family  at  Grand  IslanJ,  with  a  copy 
of  John's  Gospel,  I  gave  him  also  a  small  class-book, 
with  his  own  name  and  the  names  of  his  family  writ- 
ten with  pencil.  Both  of  these  he  had  preserved 
neat  and  clean.  He  took  them  out  of  his  trunk  and 
showed  them  to  me.  The  class  paper,  though  now 
of  no  use,  was  kept  as  a  kind  of  memento. 

Accompanied  by  five  Indians,  we  went  the   nex 
morning  to  visit  Te-quali-me-non.     The  second  house 
we  entered  we  had  a  specimen  of  the  supreme  self- 
ishness of  a  heathen   Indian.     As  usual,    I  passed 
round  the  house  to  shake  hands  with  the  inmates. 


190  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

I  offered  mj  hand  to  an  old  woman,  who  was  making 
snow-shoes.  She  continued  her  work  as  though  she 
did  not  see  me.  After  giving  her  a  fair  opportunity 
to  reciprocate  this  token  of  friendship  and  civility, 
in  vain,  I  turned  away,  in  disappointment,  while  she 
muttered,  "I  see  your  hand,  but  there  is  nothing  in 
it  that  will  benefit  me.  I  am  poor,- and  you  might 
bring  me  something  that  would  do  me  some  good." 

We  next  went  to  the  wigwam  of  O-ge-mali-ioe-na- 
sa,  or  the  King-hawk,  Here  the  people  who  were 
disposed  collected  together,  to  whom  I  preached  a 
short  sermon  from  "behold  the  Lamb  of  God,"  etc., 
and  baptized  an  infant.  The  erysipelas  was  prevail- 
ing— a  bad  type  of  it,  and  kept  several  away. 

KaJi-ha-7io-den,  the  old  chief,  sent  an  invitation 
for  me  to  visit  him  in  his  wigwam.  We  went  im- 
mediately after  meeting,  and  had  an  interview  with 
him  and  his  family.  He  said  that  "he  was  very 
desirous  to  l^ve  us  come  and  preach  to  his  people, 
and  that  this  was  not  merely  his  desire,  but  the  gen- 
eral wish  of  the  people  there.  He  said  that  the 
preacher  that  occasionally  preached  to  them,''^  was  a 
kind  of  scolding  preacher,  and  the  people  would  not 
hear  him."  Again,  "he  said  some  of  the  young  peo- 
ple were  not  members  of  any  Church,  and  if  we 
should  labor  among  them  we  might  do  them  good." 
I  gave  him  all  the  encouragement  I  could,  and  before 
I  parted  with  him  remarked,  that  I  was  glad  once 

*  A  native  preacher  of  another  persuasion . 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  191 

more  to  meet  witli  his  family;  that  the  last  time  I 
met  with  them  was  five  years  before  at  Saut  Stc, 
Marie,  when  his  son,  Beverly  TVaugh,  lay  sick  in  his 
wigwam.  Till  now  he  had  not  recognized  me,  and, 
looking  up,  he  exclaimed,  Mc-suTi  oivh  'ka-gctf  Is 
tliis  tlie  very  one?  Seeming  to  start  up  as  from  a 
reverie,  he  reached  out  his  hand  to  me  saying,  BusJioo, 
huslwo — the  word  they  use  as  equivalent  to  our  Jioio 
do  you  do')  Poor  old  man!  he  had  just  lost  one  of 
his  fingers  from  the  disease  before  named.  But  he 
had  a  worse  disease;  he  was  sometimes  overcome 
with  intemperance.  He  was  a  shrewd,  intelligent- 
looking  Indian,  and,  perhaps,  but  for  this  besetment, 
would  lonor  before  have  been  an  active  Christian. 

Without  stopping  for  any  refreshment,  eating  sim- 
ply some  crackers  which  we  carried  in  our  pockets 
by  the  way,  we  returned  immediately  to  jSTaomikong, 
where,  at  night,  we  had  another  interesting  meeting. 
Tuesday  went  six  miles  to  Carp  river,  and  at  ten 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  preached  to  the  little  band  there. 
About  noon  we  left,  and,  after  a  walk  of  about  four- 
teen miles,  we  reached  Waishkees  Bay  and  camped 
in  the  wigwam,  which  gave  us  shelter  on  our  way  up. 
Two  of  the  "Waishkee  boys  had  been  here,  and  a 
small  fire  was  still  left.  We  found  here  some  fine, 
fresh  pike,  a  pretty  good  pile  of  wood,  some  flour 
in  a  barrel,  etc.  AYe  commenced  getting  supper,  but 
before  it  was  ready  the  boys  came  in  with  a  lynx  and 
a   rabbit.     We  all  messed  together,  and   spent   the 

night  very  comfortably  by  keeping  a  good  fire.     But 

16 


192  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

tlie  weather  Tvas  intensely  cold,  and  a  very  cold  day 
followed,  but  walking  on  the  ice  from  this  was  good. 
At  ten  o'clock  wc  reached  T.  S.'s,  within  six  miles 
of  home.  The  family  were  just  at  breakfast,  and 
urged  us  to  partake  with  them.  Tliis  we  did;  and, 
after  prayer  and  conversation  on  the  subject  of  re- 
ligion, we  left,  and  were  at  home  by  noon.  Our  visit 
was  made  in  an  auspicious  time — we  saw  nearly  all 
the  Indians  together,  had  six  public,  meetings,  none 
of  which  were  barren  seasons,  besides  religious  ex- 
ercises in  several  private  families.  ^Ye  were  per- 
suaded that  we  were  in  the  work  of  the  Lord,  and 
that  the  angfel  of  mercy  had  accompanied  us.  To 
his  name  alone  be  the  glory  forever ! 

A    TRIP    DURIXa    THE    CRUST-MOOX. 

The  Indians  have  no  months  nor  years  in  their 
.calendar.  They  count  by  moons  and  winters.  The 
month  of  March  is  called  by  them  0-nali-hun-a-ge- 
2is — the  crust-moon.  The  name  is  derived  from  the 
fact,  that  during  this  7noo7i  the  snow  is  usually  crusted 
over  so  hard  that  persons  can  walk  on  the  crust 
without  the  aid  of  snow-shoes. 

The  first  day  of  March,  accompanied  by  brother 
Marksman,  I  left  home  to  visit  the  Indians  at  JS^a- 
omikonr/.  Our  team  took  us  six  miles,  where  we 
staid  all  night  with  the  family  of  T.  S.  The  next 
morning  we  left  by  eight  o'clock.  Brother  M. 
thought  we  could  trust  the  crust-moon,  so  we  left 
our  snow-shoes.     We  did  not  need  them  any  of  the 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  193 

way.  The  day  was  delightful,  and  walking  good, 
except  where  the  ice  was  too  slippery.  We  had 
soon  passed  Pointe  au  Pin.  Before  us  some  eight 
miles,  across  the  ice,  was  Pointe  Iroquois.  Still  fur- 
ther ahead  was,  in  sight,  an  island  called  by  the 
Indians  Nod-o-wa-we-gun-e-min-e-sha — literally,  the 
island  of  the  bones  of  the  Nod-o-wag,^  a  warlike 
tribe  of  Indians,  who  were  deadly  enemies  of  the 
Ojibwas,  and  who,  as  tradition  says,  were  massacred 
by  the  latter  on  Pointe  Iroquois. 

Their  story  is  that  "those  Indians  had  been  at 
war  with  the  Ojibwas,  and  whenever  they  killed  an 
Ojibwa  they  roasted  and  ate  him.  The-  Ojibwas  had 
at  that  time  a  large  village  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie.  They 
had  heard  of  the  coming  of  this  tribe,  and  took  their 
departure  from  the  Saut,  with  their  wivQS  and  chil- 
dren, whom  they  took  to  Parisian  Island,  and  there 
concealed  them.  They  sent  three  Indians  to  see 
where  the  JVodozvag  should  camp.  These  the  JS^od- 
Gwag  caught  on  the  way,  killed  them,  and  took  them 
to  Point  Iroquois.  Here  they  made  a  huge  fire, 
roasted  the  men  they  had  taken,  and  feasted  and 
danced  nearly  all  night.     Their  fire  was  seen  by  the 


■^By  Xodowag  the  Chippcwaj  Indians  doubtless  meant  the  Dal^otaa 
or  Sioux,  who  from  time  immemorial  have  been  deadly  enemies  to  each 
other.  The  term  nadoicesai  has  from  an  early  date  been  applied  by  the 
Chippeways  to  the  Sioux.  Nodowag  is  probably  only  another  form  of 
the  same  word.  Governor  Ramsay,  of  Minnesota  territory,  thinks  that 
the  Chippcways  used  the  word  nadoicessi  as  synonymous  with  the  term 
enemies,  of  whatever  tribe.  See  a  very  elaborate  and  able  document 
from  his  pen,  on  the  various  Indian  tribes  under  his  supervision,  in  the 
Annual  Report  of  the  Commissioners  of  Indian  Affairs,  for  18-19-50,  p.  68. 


104  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

Ojibwas,  ^'ho  made  preparations  to  fall  upon  them. 
Just  before  day  the  Nodoioag  all  lay  down,  and  fell 
into  a  sound  sleep.  The  Ojibwas  surrounded  them, 
and  so  arranged  that  two  persons  should  seize  on 
each  tent  simultaneously.  By  this  means,  at  a  given 
signal,  each  tent  was  thrown  down  on  its  inmates, 
who  were  all  captured  and  slain,  except  one,  whose 
ears  they  cut  off,  and  then  sent  him  home  to  bear 
the  news  to  his  friends."  Brother  M.  said  that  his 
father  had  often  seen  the  bones  which  had  covered 
this  place  of  slaughter.  Hence  the  name  of  the 
little  island  just  at  the  end  of  the  Point.  This  was 
one  subject  of  conversation  as  we  crossed  this  long 
icy  bridge. 

Another  topic  of  discourse  while  making  this  long 
traverse  was  about  Indian  medicine  men.  Brother 
M.  said  that  "his  father  had  designed  him  for  a  med- 
icine man,  and,  till  he  was  fifteen  years  of  age,  he 
was  more  or  less  instructed  in  those  mysteries.  He 
was  taught  that  the  instruction  thus  given  was  to  be 
kept  as  a  profound  secret — that  it  should  be  known 
by  none  except  those  who  were  members  of  the  fra- 
ternity. A^  their  great  Ilittas,  or  onedicine  feasts, 
persons  were  initiated  into  these  mysteries.  They 
usually  had  six  persons,  males,  called  elders,  who 
performed  the  services  of  the  gods  of  medicine,  and 
one  female,  for  the  goddess  of  medicine.  The  cere- 
monies were  performed  in  a  large  wigwam,  in  the 
shape  of  the  horizon  as  it  appears  to  the  eye.  This 
was  to  resemble  the  earth,  which  they  considered  a 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  105 

great  wigwam,  with  the  sky  for  a  covering.  Their 
songs  were  a  kind  of  praise  to  the  Great  Spirit 
fcr  the  good  effects  of  the  medicine.  And  without 
this  praise  to  the  Great  Spirit  they  consider  that  he 
woukl  be  angry,  and  the  medicine  be  without  its 
desired  effect.  They  must  handle  every  kind  of  med- 
icine as  something  sacred,  and  never  use  harsh  lan- 
guage in  addressing  any  god.  Old  men  they  were 
taught  to  respect.  They  must  never  be  trifling; 
*for,'  said  they,  Hhe  eyes  of  the  Great  Spirit  are 
as  large  as  the  sky,  and  he  sees  all  that  we  do.' 
These  medicine  men  must  be  well  dressed  and  appear 
respectably." 

Thus  employed  time  passed  pleasantly,  and  we  had 
soon  reached  the  Point,  and  then  the  island,  near 
which  we  seated  ourselves  on  a  large  piece  of  ice, 
and  ate  a  lunch  of  crackers  and  cold  pork.  So  true 
is  it  that  ''there  is  but  a  step  between  the  sublime 
and  the  ridiculous." 

A  little  after  noon  we  reached  Carp  river,  and 
were  warmly  received  by  the  "Waishkee  family.  They 
went  to  work  immediately  to  prepare  us  some  warm 
victuals.  One  of  the  viands  was  a  great  treat — it 
was  Carahoo  meat,  tender  and  sweet  as  any  venison. 
We  could  not  avoid  thinking  of  patriarchal  simplicity 
in  eating  of  a  good  warm  cake  and  "savory  meat" 
taken  from  the  forest.  Here  we  rested  awhile,  wor- 
shiped together,  and  were  again  en  route  for  Naomi- 
kong,  where  we  arrived  after  a  walk  of  twenty-eight 
miles,  but  not  without  weariness. 


196  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

We  stojoped  with  Monomonee,  who,  with  the  other 
Indians,  met  us  cordially. 

I  never  witnessed  a  more  beautiful  appearance  of 
the  sky  than  as  seen  just  about  sunset.  Not  a  cloud 
was  to  be  seen,  except  in  the  north-west  one  of  milky 
appearance.  .  The  sky  above  and  around  vras  of  trans- 
parent blue.  To  the  w^estward  it  w^iis  of  a  mellow 
golden  hue,  with  a  purple  tinge.  As  the  sun  was 
receding  from  view,  the  reflection  was  like  a  lambent 
blaze  in  the  tops  of  the  intervening  trees.  The  scene 
was  a  reflection  of  the  glory  of  God.  "How  mani- 
fold are  thy  works,  0  Lord:  in  wisdom  hast  thou 
made  them  all!" 

March  3d,  accompanied  by  Monomonee,  we  left  to 
visit  Teqiiahnenon.  We  had  not  gone  far  before 
brother  Marksman  was  obliged  to  turn  back.  He 
had  lamed  his  feet  the  day  before  by  walking  on  the 
hard  ice.  So  I  went  on  without  an  interpreter. 
Here  we  visited  several  families,  and  had  a  season 
of  worship  at  the  lodge  of  0.  We  also  called  on 
She-gud,  a  very  devoted  Christian  Indian,  a  deacon 
in  the  Baptist  Church,  but  in  a  declining  state.  After 
a  short  conversation  with  him  I  left,  craving  the 
blessing  of  God  upon  him;  to  which  he  responded, 
^'Ah  pa-gisJi  Jca-gate'' — ''This  is  ivliat  I  sincerely 
desire''  One  such  monument  of  the  saving  power 
of  the  Gospel  is  worth  years  of  missionary  toil  and 
sacrifice.  Deacon  She-gud  has  since  gone  to  his 
reward,  loved  and  lamented  by  all  who  knew  him. 
We  now  returned  to  Naomikong,  fatigued  from  our 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  197 

vralk  on  the  smooth  ice.  My  feet  "were  blistered 
and  sore.  . 

Just  before  nii^ht  the  doo-s  commenced  barkmsr 
and  running  toward  the  Lake,  announcing  an  arrival 
from  abroad.  It  was  old  sister  Waishkee,  from  Carp 
river,  with  her  two  daughters-in-law,  come  to  enjoy 
the  communion  with  us  the  next  day.  She  was  prob- 
ably sixty  or  seventy  years  of  age,  large  and  fleshy, 
and  could  riot  walk  far  on  the  smooth  ice,  though 
vigorous  for  her  years.  Her  daughters  drew  her 
most  of  the  way  on  a  hand-train.  This  looked  like 
old-fashioned  Methodist  meetings,  when  people  could 
work  a  little  to  attend  them. 

In  the  meeting  at  night  we  read  and  explained  the 
General  Rules  of  the  society.  Sabbath  morning  was 
most  lovely — a  fair  emblem  of  what  it  was  to  be  to 
us  spiritually.  Early  in  the  morning  two  of  sister 
"\Vaislikee's  sons  arrived.  At  nine  we  met  for  love- 
feast.  After  the  introductory  services  a  most  inter- 
esting relation  of  Christian  experiences  followed.  No 
time  was  lost.  I  could  with  difficulty  close  the  de- 
lightful exercises  by  eleven  o'clock.  Others  were 
still  ready  to  speak.  Nearly  all  seemed  to  feel  that 
God  was  in  our  midst.  My  attention  was  attracted 
more  particularly  by  an  aged  widow,  an  aunt  to 
brother  Marksman.  She  lived  about  a  mile  from  the 
settlement,  in  the  woods,  and  could  seldom  get  out. 
Brother  M.  had  visited  her  on  Saturday.  She  ex- 
pressed great  desire  to  meet  with  us  on  Sabbath; 
but  she  was  in  charge  of  two  little  children,  and  did 


198  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

not  know  liow  to  leave  tliem;  besides  lier  daughter 
and  little  boy  had  gone  to  the  Saut  for  provisions. 
How  she  managed  to  be  there  I  did  not  learn.  At 
any  rate  she  was  in  the  love-feast  in  season.  She 
was  plainly  but  well  clad.  She  had  on  a  good  broad- 
cloth shawl  and  a  clean  checkered  apron.  Her  face 
was  furrowed  with  age,  but  her  hair  not  much  turned. 
The  expression  of  her  face  indicated  a  serene  frame 
of  mind  and  deep  devotional  feeling.  I  occasionally 
noticed  the  moving  of  her  lips ;  then  with  her  hand- 
kerchief she  would  wipe  the  tears  from  her  eyes. 
After  the  meeting  had  progressed  at  some  length, 
she  arose.  A  brother  arose  at  the  same  time,  but 
gave  way.  She  then  commenced,  in  a  subdued  tone, 
to  relate  what  God  had  done  for  her  soul,  occasion- 
ally pausing  to  give  vent  to  her  overflowing  heart  in 
tears.  Among  other  things,  she  said  that  ''she  had 
not  language  to  express  ivhat  she  felt  in  her  heart  of 
the  goodness  of  God.''  When  done  speaking  she  fell 
on  her  knees,  with  her  face  on  the  mat  on  which  she 
had  been  sitting,  and  continued  for  a  time  as  if  en- 
gaged with  God  in  prayer.  Thus  passed  away  this 
most  interesting  love-feast.     It  was  good  to  be  there. 

The  public  meeting  was  one  not  soon  to  be  for- 
gotten. We  administered  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's 
supper  to  twenty-three.  The  hearts  of  most,  if  not 
all,  were  deeply  affected. 

At  night  brother  Marksman  preached  to  a  full 
attendance  on  the  ''one  thing  needful."  The  people 
heard  the  word  gladly. 


MISSIONAEY   LIFE.  ,  199 

After  the  evening  meeting,  Tvliich  closed  about 
eight  o'clock,  we  accompanied  our  friends  from  Carp 
river  to  their  homes,  and  tarried  T\'ith  them  for  the 
night.  I  was  led  then  to  remark :  "  I  sometimes  won- 
der  how  I  can  endure  such  continued  and  hard  exer- 
cise, and  yet  feel  no  inconvenience,  only  occasional 
weariness." 

Monday  morning,  about  nine  o'clock,  we  left  for 
the  Saut.  We  passed  over  the  first  eight  or  nine 
miles  quite  comfortably.  But  after  we  rounded  Point 
Iroquois  we  encountered  a  severe  snow-storm,  driving 
full  in  our  faces  the  rest  of  the  way.  But  we  reached 
home  before  night,  finding  all  comfortable  but  our 
little  son,  who  had  been  quite  unwell  during  my  ab- 
sence.    Thus  ended  our  trip  during  the  crust-moon. 


17 


200  LIGHTS   AKD   SHADES   OF 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

SUMMER'S  TOUR  AND  THE  MISSIONS  EN  ROUTE, 

On  the  8tli  of  June  I  left  the  Said,  on  the  schooner 
,  to  visit  the  missions.      There  were   on  board 


some  eighteen,  including  crew  and  passengers — rather 
a  motley  mixture  of  Cornish,  Belgians,  Irish,  and 
Americans.  Some  soon  rendered  themselves  con- 
sj^icuous  by  their  profanity.  Several  were  seated 
astern,  to  whom  the  captain  remarked:  ^'Gentlemen, 
we  have  a  very  pious  man  on  board;  I  hope  w^e  shall 
hear  no  profane  language."  He  was  not  aware  that 
the  person  to  whom  he  alluded  was  in  hearing,  who 
immediately  responded,  "I  hope  the  gentlemen  will 
bear  in  mind  that  they  are  in  the  presence  of  God;" 
taking  the  liberty  at  the  same  time  to  expatiate  on 
the  evil  of  swearing,  even  as  a  social  wrong,  to  say 
nothing  of  its  moral  turpitude.  All  readily  acquiesced 
in  what  w^as  said.  But  several  afterward  forgot  them- 
selves, among  whom  was  the  captain  himself. 

We  arrived  at  La  Pointe  on  the  evening  of  the 
14th.  We  had  alternate  spells  of  fair  sailing,  head 
wind,  rain,  sunshine,  and  fog.  A  sudden  squall  struck 
us  before  we  came  into  harbor,  which  gave  all  hands 
on  board  as  much  as  they  could  attend  to  for  a  short 
time.     As  we  were  on  the  Lake  durinsr  the  Sabbath, 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  201 

I  endeavored  once  to  preach  to  those  on  board. 
Whether  any  good  was  done  or  not,  both  the  mes- 
senger and  his  message  were  treated  with  respect. 
At  La  Pointe  I  was  kindly  welcomed  and  hospitably 
entertained  at  the  mission  of  the  American  Board. 

TEIP   TO   FOXD    DU   LAC. 

I  was  obliged  to  lay  over  one  day  at  La  Pointe,  to 
procure  men  and  an  outfit.  "We  now  exchanged  a 
schooner  for  a  three-fathom  birch-bark  canoe.  Sat- 
urday, the  16th,  with  two  good  voyagers,  I  left  at 
half-past  six,  A.  M.,  one  of  the  men  prepared  with 
two  small  oars,  the  other  and  myself  with  each  a  pad- 
dle. "  ATent  about  eight  miles  and  stopped  for  break- 
fast. "While  the  men  were  preparing  our  repast,  I 
took  out  my  old  and  well-tried  Bible,  and  commenced 
reading,  with  a  little  surprise,  as  it  was  my  lesson  in 
course,  Isaiah  xliii,  1,  2:  ''But  now  thus  saith  the 
Lord  that  created  thee,  0  Jacob,  and  he  that  formed 
thee,  0  Israel :  Fear  not ;  for  I  have  redeemed  thee, 
I  have  called  thee  by  thy  name;  thou  art  mine. 
When  thou  passest  through  the  waters,  I  will  be 
with  thee;  and  through  the  rivers,  they  shall  not 
overflow  thee,''  etc.  I  had  afterward,  several  times, 
occasion  to  rely  on  this  cheering  promise. 

The  Lake  was  calm  most  of  the  day.  Toward 
night  wind  was  from  the  north-east,  and  a  heavy  sea 
rolling  in  toward  the  shore.  We  were  obliged  to 
camp  rather  early  on  this  account.  For  this  purpose 
we  found  a  convenient  nook,  sheltered  by  a  high  sand 


202  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

clifF.  In  this  ^Nvild  and  desolate  spot  we  rested  during 
the  holy  Sabbath.  At  times  TN'e  -were  much  annoyed 
by  musketocs  and  black  flies.  My  men  were  not 
Christians ;  I,  however,  sung  and  read  prayers  to  them 
in  Ojibwa.  Fanned  by  the  Lake  breeze,  and  cheered 
by  the  music  of  its  surf,  I  spent  the  day  happily  in 
reading,  meditation,  and  prayer. 

June  18.  It  thundered,  lightened,  and  rained  very 
hard  during  the  past  night.  Early  in  the  morning  a 
torrent  was  rushing  doAvn  from  the  cliff,  just  before 
our  tent,  forcing  together  great  stones,  and  bearing 
sand  and  limbs  and  every  thing  before  it,  lacking  -but 
little  of  undermining  our  tent.  A  tree-top  broke  off 
and  fell  across  the  fire.  The  contents  brought  from 
the  hill  nearly  filled  up  our  little  harbor.  The  water 
of  the  Lake  all  the  rest  of  the  way  was  turbid,  from 
mixture  of  red  sand  and  clay.  We  struck  our  tent 
at  six  o'clock,  in  the  midst  of  a  heavy  fall  of  rain. 
Lake  calm  till  eleven  o'clock,  A.  M.;  but  we  became, 
as  the  Indians  say,  ah-jn-cJie,  sah-bah-we,  that  is, 
drenched.  Now  wind  sprung  up  from  the  north-east. 
^\e  ran  into  the  River  Brule — made  a  sail  of  an  In- 
dian blanket — took  some  refreshment  and  put  out  to 
sea.  Before  we  were  out  long  we  had  all  the  wind 
we  desired  for  our  little  craft.  For  a  time  the  dense 
fog  almost  hid  the  shore,  but  it  gradually  disappeared. 
We  made  fine  weather  and  gained  the  entrance  of  the 
St.  Louis  river  before  sundown,  and  camped  about 
eight  miles  up  from  its  mouth. 

June  19th  we  left  our  camp  at  four  o'clock,  A.  M. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  203 

Wc  found  tlie  river  very  high,  and  tlie  lo^vland  com- 
pletely overflown.  It  Tvas  extremely  difficult  to  tell 
where  and  which  was  the  main  channel.  AVe  were 
hemmed  in  with  a  dense  fog,  all  around,  and  the  men 
were  puzzled  to  find  the  way.  All  the  way  the  cur- 
rent was  very  rapid.  One  of  the  men  went  ashore 
and  ascended  a  little  hill,  and  saw,  at  a  distance,  some 
Indians  taking  up  a  net.  We  went  to  them  and  ob- 
tained directions.  We  had  been  on  our  course.  The 
fog  gradually  scattered,  and,  with  hard  tugging,  we 
reached  the  Fond  du  Lac  mission  at  half-past  nine 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  in  good  order  for  our  breakfast.  "We 
passed  several  canoes  with  Indians  fishing,  who  called 
to  us,  ^'ha-kali  che-hah-qua,''  that  is,  stop  and  cook 
your  breakfast.  They  seemed  to  feel  a  deep  and 
special  interest  in  the  matter.  "\Ye  found  brother 
Holt  and  wife  well,  and  we  were  glad  to  meet  each 
other  again,  even  on  a  heathen  shore.  The  native 
missionary,  who  was  a  member  of  the  annual  confer- 
ence, and  his  wife,  had  sadly  fallen  and  left  the  place, 
doing  irreparable  injury  to  our  mission.  It  is  justice 
to  them  to  say  that  they  were  led  astray  under  the 
strongest  and  most  exciting  provocations.  But  we 
must  be  excused  from  entering  into  the  unedifying 
details. 

FOND   DU   LAC   MISSION. 

There  was  here,  during  the  winter,  a  prospect  of  a 
good  revival.  Things  looked  more  than  encouroging; 
but  the   circumstance  just   mentioned  cast   a   gloom 


204  LIGHTS    AND   SHADES   OF 

orcr  the  prospect,  and  tended  to  dampen  the  efforts 
of  the  missionary.  A  school  was  taught,  numbering 
t-\yenty-eight  scholars,  and  a  Sabbath  school  consist- 
ing of  about  thirty  scholars.  Owing  to  the  late 
freshet,  things  about  the  mission  looked  like  deso- 
lation. The  river  had  not  been  known  to  be  so  high 
in  a  long  time.  Where  the  wigwams  of  the  Indians 
had  stood,  they  passed  with  canoes,  and  they  were 
forced  to  remove  their  lodges  to  the  upland.  The 
mission-garden  and  several  other  gardens  had  been 
submerged,  several  houses  were  surrounded  with 
water,  and  nearly  the  whole  looked  like  a  great  mor- 
tar-bed. Y\lth  the  exception  of  a  few,  the  Indians 
here  had  made  but  little  advancement  from  heathen- 
ism. But  even  here  there  had  been  good  fruit,  as  a 
result  of  missionary  toil.  In  some  respects  this  was 
a  point  of  importance ;  but  without  a  speedy  change 
for  the  better,  we  had  our  serious  doubts  as  to  the 
propriety  of  continuing  our  efforts  here. 

INDIAN    COUNCIL. 

While  here  I  met  the  Indians  in  council,  to  hear 
what  they  had  to  say  about  matters  in  general.  The 
head  chief,  Shingobe,  distinguished  for  nothing  but 
his  chiefship,  was  present,  and  Kah-gali-niqo,  a  sub- 
ordinate chief,  but  tlie  man  of  the  band,  and  rather  a 
marked  character.  Doctor  Korwood  thought  him  to 
be  the  most  talented  man  in  the  Chippeway  nation. 
He  evidently  thought  himself  to  be  a  great  man.  He 
came  to  see  me  in  the  morning  previous  to  the  coun- 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  205 

cil,  dressed  in  a  military  coat  highly  ornamented — a 
gift  from  some  one — with  a  cane  in  his  hand,  and 
with  airs  so  lofty  that  he  might  have  been  mistaken 
for  the  lord  of  the  land.  Quite  an  assembly  met, 
most  of  whom  were  miserably  clad;  some  with  their 
fiices  painted,  others  were  blackened,  and  nearly  all 
grotesquely  ornamented  according  to  Indian  custom. 

I  told  the  Indians  that  I  had  come  as  a  stranger 
among  them,  was  glad  to  see  them,  and,  at  their 
request,  had  met  with  them  to  hear  what  they  had 
to  say  about  matters  connected  with  the  mission. 
Spoke  to  them  respecting  the  object  of  missions; 
told  them  I  was  anxious  to  learn  what  good  the  labors 
of  the  missionaries  had  done  among  them,  and  that 
their  friends  below  often  inquired  after  their  welfare, 
and  their  progress  in  religion  and  civilization.  I  then 
gave  way  for  a  reply.  After  a  little  consultation, 
Kah-gah-nup  blew  upon  his  hands,  rolled  up  his  shirt 
sleeves  to  his  elbows,  spoke  a  few  words  sitting,  then 
came  up  and  gave  me  his  hand,  and  said  in  substance : 

"My  friend,  you  are  from  a  rich  country,  where 
every  thing  is  fine  and  flourishing.  You  heard  about  us 
a  number  of  years  ago,  and  thought  you  would  come 
and  teach  us,  and  preach  the  Gospel.  As  you  came 
this  way  you  found  things  look  poorer  and  poorer. 
Very  great  difference  when  you  came  here.  You 
found  us  very  poor  people,  living  in  the  woods.  You 
always  speak  to  us  about  the  name  of  God.  Now 
God  is  a  charitable  being.  His  disciples  ought  also  to 
be  charitable.    Now  I  do  n't  see  this  charity.    Indians 


206  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

arc  very  poor  and  hungry,  but  the  missionary  does 
not  feed  them.  And  now  I  want  to  know  who  pays 
the  money  to  support  the  mission?  Do  the  white 
people  below,  or  does  it  come  from  the  Indian  an- 
nuity? And  as  for  the  school-teacher,  he  does  not 
do  his  work  right.  When  men  are  hired  to  work 
they  go  at  it  early  in  the  morning,  and  work  all  day. 
The  missionary  waits  till  the  sun  is  up  high,  just  as 
the  farmer.  If  his  boss  were  here  perhaps  he  would 
do  differently.  But  the  teacher  does  not  teach  longer 
than  one  can  smoke  a  pipe.*  The  Indian  is  like  the 
wild  fox  in  the  woods.  When  we  want  to  catch  him 
we  put  bait  in  the  trap.  But  you  do  not  put  on 
the  bait;  therefore,  you  do  not  succeed  with  the  In- 
dians. And  now  I  will  say  no  more,  and  when  you 
have  spoken  I  will  reply." 

I  answered  his  speech  briefly,  reminding  him  that, 
for  several  years,  missionaries  were  sent  to  them  at 
the  expense  of  the  Missionary  Society,  and  that,  since 
the  treaty,  they  had  drawn  a  small  portion  from  the 
Indian  annuity,  but  that  still  the  Missionary  Society 
bore  most  of  the  expense.  As  to  our  charity,  I  told 
him  that  we  endeavored  to  do  what  we  were  sent 
to  do — that  we  were  not  sent  to  feed  them,  but  to 
preach  the  Gospel  to  them,  to  teach  their  children, 
and  point  out  the  way  for  them  to  be  happy — that 
if  they  would  only  abandon  their  heathenism  and  go 


^  The  missionary  thought  this  a  pretty  good  eulogium  on  his  services, 
as  some  of  them  could  smoke  a  pipe  nearly  all  the  time. 


i 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  207 

to  work  as  the  white  people  do,  they  would  not  be  hun- 
rrry  and  jro  bessrins:  about  for  some  one  to  feed  them. 
I  pointed  them,  for  example,  to  the  Indians  at  Kewa- 
wenon,  and  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  under  the  care  of 
our  missions.  As  to  what  he  said  about  the  teacher, 
I  was  not  fully  informed  as  to  the  facts  in  the  case, 
but  had  reason  to  believe  that,  on  a  little  more  re- 
flection, he  would  be  disposed  to  -alter  his  speech. 
Told  him  what  was  customary  below  about  teaching — 
that  it  would  not  be  for  the  children's  good  to  be 
kept  in  all  day.  And  more  than  this,  that  the  teacher 
was  often  compelled  to  desist  from  teaching  for  want 
of  children;  that  Indians  often  suffer  their  children 
to  run  about  and  play  instead  of  going  to  school. 
Sometimes  a  goodly  number  came,  and  sometimes 
very  few.  And  finally,  that  the  bait  we  put  into 
the  trap  to  catch  the  fox,  was  to  present  that  before 
him  which  would  improve  him  every  way  in  body  and 
in  mind,  and  raise  him  up  to  the  same  station  that  the 
white  people  occupied — that  this  was  the  best  bait 
we  had  to  present. 

lie  arose  again,  and  said :  "  If  we  employ  a  man 
to  work  he  expects  something  to  eat,  and  we  feed 
him.  If  you  want  the  Indians  to  do  something  you 
must  feed  them."  He  seemed  to  imply,  in  what  he 
said,  that  the  Indians  were  conferring  a  remarkable 
fiivor  on  the  missionaries  to  send  their  children  to 
school,  and  to  attend  the  meetings,  and  that  they 
ought,  at  least,  to  be  fed,  if  not  well  paid  for  such 
meritorious  acts. 


208  LIGETS  AND  SHADE  S  OF 

The  head  chief,  a  Catholic,  made  a  few  remarks, 
the  principal  of  T^'hich  were,  that  ^'  they  did  not  want 
our  missionaries  there  any  more ;  and  that  the  right 
to  cut  grass  on  a  piece  of  wild  meadow,  for  which 
brother  Day,  a  previous  missionary,  had  given  him 
a  coat,  could  not  be  granted  any  longer — that  he 
would  return  the  coat  again  [after  having  worn  it 
about  a  year]  to  the  mission."  Of  cou:rse  we  de- 
clined his  generous  offer.  I  told  them  plainly,  in 
conclusion,  that  if  they  judged  themselves  unworthy 
of  the  Gospel,  after  having  made  sufficient  trial,  we 
should  turn  to  others.^ 

Here  I  became  nearly  discouraged  respecting  the 
prospect  of  going  to  Sandy  Lake.  An  old  and  ex- 
perienced voyager  told  me  that  I  could  go,  but  should 
need  the  best  kind  of  men;  that  we  must  carry  canoe 
and  all  around  all  the  rapids,  which,  he  said,  would 
take  us  seven  days,  only  to  ascend.  iSTearly  all  the 
Indians  spoke  very  discouragingly.  They  said,  ''If 
you  go  you  will  drink  water."  They  meant  we  would 
be  drowned.  The  men  who  accompanied  me  from 
La  Pointe  became  frightened,  and  were  for  going 
no  farther.  But  I  was  favored  with  an  interview 
with  Dr.  Norwood,  employed  in  the  geological  survey 


*  In  regard  to  the  kindness  of  our  missionaries  in  feeding  the  Indians, 
the  sick  of  some  of  those  very  persons,  who  uttered  such  loud  complaints, 
were  visited,  almost  daily,  by  brother  Holt  and  his  amiable  wife,  and  food 
carried  to  them.  Their  hospitality,  to  the  poor  around,  had  a  limit,  that 
was  their  means.  The  other  complaints,  as  I  leai-ned  from  reliable  sources, 
were  not  founded  in  truth,  but  in  extreme  ignorance  and  selfishness. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  209 

on  the  nortli  sliore  of  Lake  Superior,  and  well  ac- 
quainted "svitli  that  entire  portion  of^the  country, 
which  fully  satisfied  me  that  the  difficulties  and  dan- 
gers, though  not  inconsiderable,  were  magnified.  In 
this  view  I  was  confirmed  by  conversation  with  XciIl- 
gali-nup.  I  employed  an  additional  man,  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  rivers.  We  took  a  Frenchman 
from  Dr.  Norwood's  party,  who  desired  to  work  his 
passage  through  to  the  Mississippi.  Brother  Holt 
concluded  to  accompany  us.  "With  a  force  of  six  we 
were  prepared  to  oppose  a  pretty  stiif  current.  But 
by  adding  to  our  strength  we  also  increased  our 
burden.  Thursday,  21st  of  June,  we  were  ready  to 
start  at  eight  o'clock,  A.  M. 

OUR  EOUTE. 

About  three  miles  from  Fond  du  Lac,  up  the  St. 
Louis  river,  commences  what  is  called  the  Grand 
Portage.  The  distance  across  is  called  nine  miles. 
Here  is  a  succession  of  rapids,  impracticable  either 
to  ascend  or  descend.  Every  thing  must  be  carried 
by  land;  not  in  wagons,  or  on  horses,  but  on  men's 
backs.  We  were  favored  in  being  able  to  leave  one 
canoe  on  this  side,  and  get  one  of  the  oSTorth  Fur 
Company's  on  the  other  side.  Part  of  the  way  walk- 
ing was  good;  but,  in  places,  quite  muddy  from  re- 
cent powerful  rains.  We  reached  the  end  of  this 
Portage  at  two  o'clock,  P.  M.  Here  we  stopped  tc 
gum  our  canoe,  but  were  soon  under  way,  stemming 
the  rapid  current.     After  some  exertion,  moving  at 


2i0  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

a  slow  rate,  ^\e  reached  Knife  Portage.  Distance 
across  is  three  and  a  half  miles.  The  fullness  of  the 
river  enabled  us  to  shorten  the  portage  a  mile  and  a 
half.  Here  ve  landed  safely,  after  having  ascended 
one  of  the  most  dangerous  places.  ^Ye  soon  had  all 
over  the  portage,  and  vrere  camped  for  the  night. 

Friday,  22cl.  "We  had  a  succession  of  rapids  till 
Tve  crossed  Grand  Kapids,  at  one  o'clock,  P.  M.  Some 
of  these  -we  had  much  difficulty  in  ascending.  Poles 
Tvere  used  "wdien  the  TN'ater  "^'as  not  too  deep.  At 
times  T^'e  succeeded  by  getting  hold  of  bushes  and 
limbs  of  trees,  and  thus  pulling  ourselves  along. 
Sometimes  when  our  paddles  were  insufficient  we 
found  it  necessary  to  cordell;  that  is,  to  use  a  rope. 
But  this  could  seldom  be  done,  except  for  a  short 
distance,  on  account  of  trees,  etc.  Occasionally  large 
trees  were  found  lying  in  the  rapids,  which  it  was 
difficult  to  get  around.  AYe  avoided  some  difficult 
rapids  by  following  channels  which  the  river  had 
forced  among  the  trees;  but  in  one  of  these  places 
we  came  very  near  breaking  our  canoe.  Even  here 
the  water  was  very  rapid.  Having  ascended  the 
Grand  Rapids,  we  were  over  the  worst,  although  the 
current  of  the  St.  Louis  is  very  strong  all  the  way. 
We  traveled  till  eight  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  camped; 
were  much  annoyed  by  musketoes.  During  the  night 
we  had  a  heavy  thunder-shower;  lightning  struck 
near  us. 

Saturday,  2Sd.  At  half-past  four  o'clock  we  left 
our  camp.     At  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  had  reached 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  211 

the  moutli  of  East  Savan  river.  This  river  wa3 
spread  over  all  its  bottoms;  but  Tve  found  smooth 
water,  and  current  light,  compared  with  what  we  had 
passed  over.  AVe  now  made  good  headway.  Be- 
tween five  and  six  o'clock  a  dark  cloud  arose  before 
us,  and  distant  thunder  warned  us  of  an  approaching 
storm.  As  soon  as  we  could  find  a  convenient  spot, 
we  went  ashore,  and  erected  our  tent.  But  this  was 
scarcely  done  before  a  deafening  peal  of  thunder  fell 
near  us,  and  the  lurid  lightning  flashed  in  our  faces, 
and,  quick  as  thought,  a  hurricane  swept  by  us, 
breaking  off  a  large  number  of  trees  as  if  they  were 
rushes.  We  all  forsook  the  tent,  and  stood  and  took 
the  driving  storm,  securing  a  position  on  the  shore 
where  we  had  no  trees  in  range  of  the  storm.  T\.e 
received  a  fine  wetting,  but  no  farther  injury.  The 
storm  was  fierce,  but  soon  subsided,  and  we  went  on 
again.  Just  before  sundown  we  reached  the  head 
of  the  river,  and  camped  down  on  the  wet  grass, 
with  water  all  around  us,  scarcely  afi*ording  a  place 
suitable  for  our  tent.  I  thought  I  had  often  seen 
musketoes,  but  will  not  attempt  to  describe  the  salu- 
tations we  here  met.  Supper  was  prepared,  but  our 
situation  was  so  uncomfortable  that  we  could  scarcely 
eat.  Another  heavy  thunder-shower  now  poured 
down  on. us. 

Sahhath,  24ttJi.  "We  had  now  some  twelve  miles  of 
land  portage,  and  about  four  miles  across  Sandy  Lake, 
to  reach  the  mission.  Had  we  been  below,  with  an 
appointment  thus  near,  we  should  have  felt  it  our 


212  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   01 

duty  to  go  to  it.  Here  Tve  could  only  meet  with  our 
bretliren  once  a  year,  and  make  a  short  stay  at  best, 
and  besides  were  not  situated  for  a  quiet  observance 
of  the  Sabbath.  Accordingly,  obeying  the  convic- 
tions of  duty,  we  went  into  the  mission  in  the  early 
part  of  the  day,  and  spent  the  afternoon  with  brother 
and  sister  Spates,  our  missionaries,  in  religious  exer- 
cises, finding  it  rest  and  pleasure  both  to  soul  and 
body,  to  be  out  of  a  dismal  swamp,  and  at  the  end 
of  a  fatiguing  and  perilous  voyage.  .  At  four  o'clock 
preached  to  the  little  company  which  assembled.  God 
was  with  us  of  a  truth.  We  all  felt  it  good  to  wait 
on  the  Lord.  For  w^ant  of  wine  we  did  not  admin- 
ister the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper  either  here 
or  at  Fond  du  Lac.  It  had  been  administered  at  both 
stations  during  the  winter  by  brother  Spates. 

Monday,  25th,  was  a  very  busy  day  with  us.  ^Ye 
had  the  temporal  business  of  the  mission  to  arrange ; 
many  things  to  talk  about  respecting  the  present 
condition  and  the  future  operations  of  the  mission, 
and  various  calls  to  which  attention  must  be  given. 

PEATS   or   A   COXJUKER. 

Li  the  afternoon  we  were  invited  to  go  to  the 
lodge  of  one  of  the  chiefs,  whose  son  was  very  sick. 
It  was  announced  that  an  Indian  medicine  man  would 
SAvallow  some  bones.  The  wigwam  was  spread  around 
with  blankets,  leaving  a  square  in  the  center  for  the 
fire.  The  invalid  lay  on  one  side,  his  father  seated 
near  him.     On  the  other    side   were   two  plates   of 


MISSIONARY    LIFE.  211! 

sugar,  and  spoons  in  them.  Another  plate  contained 
y^'iiter  or  broth.  In  this  ^'as  a  piece  of  horn  cut  off 
at  each  end  so  as  to  leave  it  hollow.  It  was  about 
four  inches  long  and  perhaps  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  thickness.  Beside  this  was  a  bear's  claw, 
with  two  brass  nails  in  the  large  end,  and  several 
small  pieces  of  bone,  two  to  three  inches  long,  and 
a  fourth  to  a  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  The  plate 
was  covered  with  a  rattle,  made  similar  to  their  drum, 
with  hieroglyphics  painted  on  each  side.  It  was 
about  eight  inches  in  diameter.  The  conjurer  came 
and  took  his  seat  by  the  head  of  the  sick  man.  An- 
other came  in  with  a  drum.  The  performer  took  a 
little  pail  of  water  and  washed  his  hands — they  cer- 
tainly needed  it — and  then  rinsed  out  his  mouth. 
Now  he  offered  a  kind  of  prayer  to  the  Great  Spirit. 
He  stated  that  "it  was  made  known  to  him  when  a 
little  child  that  he  should  swallow  bones;  that  his 
mother  charged  him  not  to  make  a  show  of  this,  and 
that  it  was  not  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  show 
that  we  had  been  invited  to  see  the  performance." 
He  spoke  very  rapidly,  and  appeared  to  be  in  a  kind 
of  agony.  During  this  the  invalid  showed  signs  of 
great  distress,  groaning  and  pressing  upon  his  abdo- 
men with  his  hands,  and  changing  his  position.  The 
prayer  ended,  he  took  his  rattle  and  began  to  shake 
it,  occasionally  beating  himself  with  it  on  one  shoulder, 
then  on  the  other,  then  on  his  back  and  breast  in 
rapid  succession,  bending  forward  toward  the  plate, 
and  drawing:  in  his  breath  as  if  he  would  take  in  the 


214  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

Lones  witliout  toucliing  them.  The  man  "with  the 
drum  meanwhile  kej^t  u^d  a  constant  drumming  and 
jingling  of  little  bells.  Now  he  put  his  mouth  to 
the  plate,  took  one  of  the  bones,  and  made  a  dreadful 
struggle  as  if  attempting  to  swallow  it,  beating  his 
back  and  shoulders  with  the  rattle.  Then  he  would 
spit  it  out,  and  take  another,  and  thus  he  continued 
till  he  got  them  all  in — bones,  bear's  claw,  horn,  and 
all — and,  for  aught  any  one  could  tell,  had  actually 
swallowed  them.  Though  I  watched  his  throat  very 
narrowly,  and  could  not  perceive  that  he  swallowed, 
still  they  had  disappeared,  and  they  went  into  his 
mouth.  Then  he  vomited  them  all  out  again,  during 
which  his  face  was  all  contortions,  and  he  writhed 
and  sweat  as  if  he  had  been  in  the  agonies  of  death. 
Kow  he  would  take  one  of  the  bones  in  his  mouth, 
and  press  it  upon  the  body  of  the  invalid,  during 
which  he  appeared  tranquil  and  serene.  It  acted  on 
him  like  a  charm. 

Query:  Wherein  does  this  differ  essentially  from 
modern  spiritualism?  Is  not  Satan  at  the  bottom  of 
the  conjurer's  art,  and  equally  so  as  it  respects  mod- 
ern necromancy?  We  felt,  at  least,  as  if  we  were  in 
the  very  precincts  of  his  majesty's  darkest  domain. 

After  this  the  Indians  met  in  council  to  deliberate 
on  matters  concerning  the  mission.  They  spoke  very 
highly  of  their  missionary,  called  him  their  father, 
and  said  they  loved  him  much.  But  they  had  some 
fault  to  find  with  him — he  did  not  feed  them  quite 
enough.     They  would  be  glad  also  if  he  would  give 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  215 

them  more  clothing ;  and  they  were  especially  desirous 
that  he  should  keep  a  good  supply  of  medicine  on 
hand  to  doctor  their  sick.  They  complained  of  their 
inability  to  make  their  children  go  to  school  as  they 
desired.  They  had  much  to  say  which  amounted  to 
but  little ;  and,  to  close  the  whole,  one  of  the  chiefs 
remarked,  "  Our  father  is  here,  and  does  not  give  us 
any  thing;  if  our  mother  were  here,  we  know  she 
would  give  us  something."  We  left  them  with  such 
instruction  as  we  thought  adapted  to  their  case. 

Accompanied  by  the  other  missionaries,  I  went  to 
see  the  Mississippi,  distant  only  a  half  mile,  where  we 
bathed  in  the  outlet  of  Sandy  Lake,  and  returned 
again  to  the  mission.  Here  we  closed  the  day  with  a 
family  prayer  meeting.  It  is  worth  all  the  world  to 
be  in  such  a  praying  circle  in  a  heathen  land.  I  shall 
not  soon  forget  that  sweet,  refreshing  season. 

SANDY   LAKE   MISSION. 

I  was  happily  disappointed  when  I  came  to  see 
this  spot.  Here  was  the  most  complete  contrast 
I 'ever  beheld  between  paganism  and  Christianity, 
barbarism  and  civilization.  On  the  one  hand  were 
rude  lodges,  with  inmates  rolling  in  filth,  and  steeped 
in  the  moral  pollution  of  heathenism.  In  the  midst 
of  scenes  the  most  revolting  stood  the  Methodist  mis- 
sion, a  plain  but  comfortable  log  building.  Brother 
S.  had  paled  in  a  little  door-yard,  with  shrubbery  and 
plants  tastefully  growing  within.  He  had  inclosed 
his  garden  with  high  pickets,  and  had  a  small  field 


21G  LIGHTS  AXD  SHADES  OF 

adjoining,  planted  mostly  in  potatoes,  Avliicli  looked 
verj  well  for  tlie  time.  Every  tiling  without  looked 
thrifty  and  prosperous.  The  gardens  of  most  of  the 
Indians  had  shared  the  same  fate  as  at  Fond  du  Lac ; 
they  were  buried  under  the  freshet.  A  time  of  suf- 
fering AYas  anticipated  among  the  Indians  as  a  con- 
sequence, in  the  destruction  of  the  rice  crop.  The 
mission  had  not  been  without  a  degree  of  prosperity, 
though  small.  There  were  but  six  members,  and  one 
on  probation.  The  school  had  been  better  attended 
than  any  previous  year.  It  numbered,  for  the  year, 
twenty-three  male  scholars  and  nineteen  female.  The 
children  had  made  some  advancement  in  learning, 
but,  as  they  were  situated,  we  could  not  hope  for 
rapid  progress.  In  this  survey  we  felt  that  our  zeal 
should  not  rise  and  fall  in  proportion  as  our  reports 
were  full  or  destitute  of  glowing  statistics,  but  in 
proportion  to  the  value  of  one  soul  truly  enlightened 
and  saved. 

Tuesday,  26th,  we  parted  with  our  friends  at  Sandy 
Lake,  at  eight  o'clock,  A.  M.  At  five  o'clock,  P.  M., 
the  next  day,  we  were  at  Fond  du  Lac.  The  distance 
between  these  stations  is  nearly  one  hundred  miles. 
"We  passed  with  great  rapidity  over  the  frightful  rap- 
ids, which  caused  us  so  much  toil  on  our  way  up. 
Here  we  spent  the  night,  and  preached  the  next  morn- 
ing to  the  little  society.  We  left  the  mission  at  two 
o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  by  traveling  all  night  Friday 
night  we  arrived  at  La  Pointe  on  Saturday,  before 
noon.     Spent  the  Sabbath  here,  entertained,  as  usual, 


I 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  217 

at  the  mission  of  the  xVmerican  Board.  I  preached 
once  to  Rev.  Mr.  Hall's  congregation.  Monday  we 
Tvere  •v\-ind-bound.  Tuesday  Tve  left  for  Kewawenon, 
where,  after  hard  toiling,  we  arrived  on  Friday  at  ten 
o'clock  at  night.  We  met  with  a  happy  greeting 
from  brother  Barnum's  family,  whose  repose  we  were 
under  the  necessity  of  disturbing.  Found  sister  B. 
in  a  declining  state  of  health,  and  doubt  entertained 
respecting  her  recovery.  She  regretted  to  be  des- 
titute of  the  counsel  and  aid  of  a  good  physician, 
but  was  waiting,  resignedly,  the  will  of  God. 

THE    KEWAWENOX    MISSION. 

It  was  gratifymg  to  witness  the  degree  of  pros- 
perity that  had  attended  this  mission.  The  Indians 
were  in  a  high  degree  of  improvement  compared  with 
those  before  named.  Their  crops  this  year  were 
larger  than  any  previous  year.  They  were  adding 
to  the  comforts  of  their  dwellings,  and  increasing 
their  stock  of  cattle.  The  Church  numbered  forty- 
three"  members,  and  nine  on  trial.  The  school  num- 
bered twenty  males  and  thirteen  females,  which  also 
composed  mostly  the  Sabbath  school.  The  Indians 
were  all  busy  on  Saturday  in  making  a  road.  I  im- 
proved this  time  to  transact  business  matters  with 
the  missionaries.  In  the  evening  we  had  a  meeting 
of  the  Indians  to  attend  to  the  business  of  the  Church. 
Sabbath  morning,  at  nine  o'clock,  we  met  for  love- 
feast.  It  was  truly  a  time  of  God's  power.  An 
invitation  was  given  for  persons  to  unite  with  the 


218  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

Churcli,  while  we  should  sing.  Several  old  back- 
sliders came  and  gave  us  their  hand;  one  young  man, 
also,  who  had  lately  renounced  heathenism.  The 
hymn  was  named,  and  all  tried  to  sing,  hut  the  sing- 
ing was  so  interrupted  with  sobs  and  cries  that  we 
could  scarcely  proceed.  At  eleven  o'clock  the  house 
was  well  filled,  and  I  had  the  privilege  of  preaching 
to  them,  while  they  listened  with  deep  and  fixed 
attention  to  the  word  spoken.  I  trust  the  efi*ort  was 
not  in  vain. 

In  the  afternoon  we  baptized  the  young  man  who 
had  renounced  heathenism,  and  three  infants,  after 
which  we  administered  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's 
supper.  In  the  evening  I  endeavored  to  preach, 
plainly  and  pointedly,  to  the  white  people,  on  the  new 
birth.  During  the  three  years  I  had  resided  at  this 
mission,  I  enjoyed  many  precious  seasons  with  my 
Indian  brethren,  but  none  more  so  than  this  last. 
Nearly  all  the  forenoon  Monday  was  spent  in  con- 
ference with  them,  and  I  had  literally  to  force  myself 
away  to  leave  for  Eagle  river  at  two  o'clock,  P.  M., 
July  9th.  Nearly  all,  from  the  least  to  the  greatest, 
were  on  the  dock  to  shake  hands,  and  say  hiisJioo, 
as  we  launched  our  canoe,  bade  them  farewell,  and 
departed. 

We  arrived  at  Eagle  river  the  next  evening,  where 
I  took  leave  of  my  two  voyageiirs  and  the  canoe  which 
had  accompanied  me  for  nearly  seven  hundred  miles. 
The  men  proved  themselves  to  be  trusty  and  faithful. 
They  returned  to  La  Pointe. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  219 


EAGLE    RITER    MISSION. 


Rev.  E.  H.  Day  was  tlie  missionary  at  this  station. 
He  taught  school  all  the  year,  and  preached  two  or 
three  times  on  the  Sabbath.  There  was  here  a  class 
of  thirteen  members,  and  two  Sunday  schools,  num- 
bering about  forty  scholars.  The  missionary  was 
indefatigable  in  his  efforts  to  promote  the  cause  of 
Christ,  but  counter  influences  were  at  work  here  which 
served  to  hedge  up  his  way,  and  impede  the  work  of 
religion.  This  was  especially  true  of  the  prevailing 
intemperance.  At  a  public  meeting,  which  was  nu- 
merously attended,  an  individual  offered  the  following 
resolution,  that  "temperance,  on  Lake  Superior,  is 
all  a  humbug."  By  taking  the  business  of  presi- 
dent into  his  own  hands,  and  putting  the  question  to 
the  crowd,  it  was  carried  with  a  hurra!  Several, 
who  before  had  felt  themselves  pledged  to  abstain 
from  the  accursed  thing,  were  found  returning  -to 
their  cups.  Whisky  does  most  of  the  mischief  at 
the  mines. 

Brother  Barnum  came  across  from  Kewawenon, 
and  spent  Saturday  and  Sabbath  with  us.  The  meet- 
ings of  both  Saturday  evening  and  Sabbath  were 
seasons  of  refreshing  from  God's  presence.  Sunday 
evening  brother  B.  preached  on  the  subject  of  mis- 
sions, and  we  took  up  a  collection  to  aid  the  cause. 

I  was  compelled  to  remain  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Cliff  Mine  a  week  before  I  could  obtain  a  passage 
to   the  Saut.     On  the  18th  of  July  I  went  aboard 


220  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

the  Naj^oleon,  and  arrived  at  home  on  tlie  20th, 
after  an  absence  of  six  weeks.  I  had  increasing 
cause  of  gratitude  to  an  ever-watchful  Providence 
for  his  kind  care  over  myself  and  family  during  this 
period. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  221 


CHAPTER   XIY. 

SAUT  DE    STE.  MARIE   MISSION. 

Little  Rapids  was  still  the  rallying  point  for  this 
mission,  so  far  as  the  Indians  were  concerned.  Here 
were  the  farm,  the  mission-house,  chapel,  and  other 
buildings  and  conveniences.  Missionary  operations 
could  have  been  prosecuted  here  with  increasing  ad- 
vantage, but  for  the  fact  that  our  location  was  on  a 
Government  Reserve,  and  the  Indians  were  anxious 
to  locate  somewhere,  in  which  there  was  a  prospect 
of  making  a  permanent  home  that  they  could  call 
their  own.  They  could  not  be  persuaded  that  the 
Government  would  allow  them  to  do  this  at  Little 
Rapids.  Their  desire  was  to  buy  land  and  hold  it  in 
fee  simple^  without  molestation. 

Afthis  station  we  had  a  small  class,  regular  preach- 
ing, and  other  religious  exercises,  a  Sabbath  school 
and  a  day  school,  numbering  twenty-four  scholars, 
taught  by  Rev.  P.  0.  Johnson,  assisted  by  brother 
Marksman.  Seven  children  were  living  in  the  mis- 
sion family,  and  were  rapidly  improving  in  every 
respect.  Such  was  the  state  of  things  during  the 
winter. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  following  summer  all  the 
Indian  families  left  Little  Rapids  and  went  to  White 


222  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

Fish  Point,  Lake  Superior,  to  fish,  and  remained  dur- 
inor  the  summer.  Some  would  have  returned  sooner 
but  for  fear  of  the  cholera,  -vN'hich  had  broken  out  at 
the  Saut.  "With  my  advice  brother  Marksman  fol- 
lowed the  Indians,  took  lodging  in  a  wigwam,  and 
built  a  shelter,  under  which  he  taught  school  during 
the  week,  and  preached  on  the  Sabbath.  His  school- 
list  showed  fifty-two  scholars,  thirty-five  of  whom 
were  boys.  Owing  to  their  fishing,  the  attendance 
was  not  always  regular.  The  average  was  sixteen 
and  a  fraction. 

The  work  of  religion  seemed  to  be  gradually  ad- 
vancing despite  the  many  obstacles  which  the  scat- 
tered state  of  the  Indians  cast  in  the  way.  In  the 
spring  considerable  repairs  were  made  about  the  mis- 
sion farm,  and  the  crop  yielded'  well  except  the  grass, 
which  was  much  injured  by  drought.  Our  principal 
drawback  here  was  the  removal  of  several  families  to 
Ka-om-i-kong,  which  made  it  evident  that  we  must 
follow  them  -to  that  locality  or  give  up  our  efforts  to 
evangelize  them.  The  Indians  desired  us  to  establish 
a  school  at  the  place  just  named.  But  here  was  the 
commencement  of  new  labors  and  increasing  respon- 
sibilities. 

When  the  business  of  the  district  did  not  call  the 
superintendent  to  other  parts  of  the  work,  he  kept  up 
regular  religious  services  among  the  white  citizens  cf 
the  village  of  Ste.  Marie. 

In  the  interval  of  the  previous  conference  Rev.  J. 
D.  Bingham,  son  of  the  resident  Baptist  missionary, 


MISSIONARY    LIFE.  223 

came  to  the  Saiit  with  the  intention  of  ministering  to 
the  white  popalation  of  that  place,  providing  there 
should  be  a  suitable  opening.  He  resided  in  his 
fathers  family  during  the  winter,  and  preached  every 
Sabbath  afternoon  in  the  same  house  in  which  our 
meetings  were  held.  We  had  the  privilege  usually  of 
attending  each  other's  services.  Those  public  meet- 
ings were  always  agreeable  and  harmonious,  and,  we 
trust,  beneficial  to  the  community.  Mr.  B.'s  wife  is  a 
daughter  of  Elder  Knapp,  the  revivalist,  and  a  well- 
educated  and  refined  Christian  lady.  In  the  early 
part  of  the  following  summer  he  took  leave  of  the 
Saut,  and  went  below  to  find  a  field  of  greater 
promise. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  year  our  congrega- 
tions were  small.  But  we  were  encouraged,  as  the 
year  advanced,  to  have  them  gradually  and  constantly 
enlarge,  and  they  were  generally  characterized  by 
seriousness  and  thoughtful  attention  to  the  word 
preached,  and  occasionally  we  were  favored  with 
seasons  of  melting  mercy  to  the  little  few  who  bore 
the  Christian  name. 

The  winter  was  a  very  severe  one.  About  the  mid- 
dle of  February  the  thermometer  fell  as  low  as  35° 
and  40°  below  zero,  and  the  snow  was  five  feet  deep 
on  a  level.  But  the  river  opened  about  the  first  of 
May,  so  that  on  the  9th  we  had  two  arrivals,  the 
steamers  Tecumseh  and  Franklin.  All  was  now  sud- 
denly changed  to  a  whirl  of  business.  A  company 
of  troops  was  sent  up  to  occupy  the  fort,  and  we  were 


224  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

obliged  to  give  up  our  quarters  and  take  up  our 
abode  in  a  los!;-cabin  in  the  outskirts  of  the  vil- 
lage,  the  best  we  could  find,  and  we  were  glad  to 
obtain  that. 

During  my  absence  to  visit  the  upper  missions, 
Rev.  P.  0.  Johnson  ministered  to  the  people  of  the 
village. 

August  3d  was  the  day  appointed  by  the  President 
of  the  United  States,  to  be  observed  as  a  day  of  fast- 
ing and  prayer  to  almighty  God,  to  arrest  the  ravages 
of  that  desolating  scourge,  the  cholera.  To  this  the 
attention  of  the  people  was  called.  "\Ye  met  at  six 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  and  held  a  prayer  meeting.  At  half- 
past  ten  o'clock  I  endeavored  to  preach  to  the  people. 
Rev.  Mr.  Bingham,  the  Baptist  missionary,  preached 
at  two  o'clock,  P.  M.  The  day  was  rainy  and  the 
meetings  were  thinly  attended.  We  felt  as  though 
the  people  did  not  realize,  as  they  should  have  done, 
the  loud  call  for  humiliation  before  God. 

Is  it  not  a  little  singular  that  the  very  next  day  the 
fell  destroyer  appeared  in  our  midst,  in  the  sudden 
death  of  Mr.  Stevens,  the  proprietor  of  the  Ste. 
Marie's  Hotel?  On  Sabbath  I  was  called  to  attend 
his  funeral.  The  next  day  we  had  four  corpses  in 
town,  three  Indians  and  a  Frenchman. 

Wednesday  there  was  one  death.  Thursday  two 
were  taken  in  the  morning  and  died  before  night. 
One  was  Captain  Daniel  Hicks,  of  Adrian ;  the  other 
was  a  Frenchman,  who  had  lived  an  abandoned 
life,  and  died  in  most  excruciating  agony.     This  was 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  225 

pronounced  the  most  melancholy  day  that  had  ever 
been  i^itnessed  at  the  Saut.  Three  men  lay  sick  in 
the  fort,  two  of  whom  were  in  the  hospital.  During 
the  prevalence  of  the  scourge  our  time  was  much 
taken  up  in  visiting  the  sick  and  dying,  attending 
funerals,  etc. 

xVlarming  as  were  those  instances  of  mortality,  the 
epidemic  was  mercifully  restrained  in  its  ravages. 
Many  felt  symptoms  of  the  disease  who  were  enabled 
to  counteract  them.  Through  God's  goodness  all  our 
missionaries,  and  the  Indians  connected  with  us,  were 
preserved. 

The  conference  year  was  now^  closing.  August 
24th,  accompanied  by  my  family,  we  took  steamer  for 
Detroit,  where  we  spent  the  next  Sabbath.  Thence 
we  hastened  to  Adrian,  the  seat  of  the  conference, 
the  home  of  several  relatives  and  numerous  old  and 
tried  friends.  Here  I  spent  the  Sabbath  previous  to 
the  conference,  and  preached  in  the  morning  to  a 
large  and  attentive  congregation,  and  saw  many 
familiar  faces,  but  some  had  gone  to  the  spirit-land. 
Brother  Hicky  gave  us,  in  the  afternoon,  one  of  his 
worm  Holy  Ghost  sermons.  The  late  lamented  Hin- 
man  thrilled  the  evening  assembly  with  an  eloquent 
and  elaborate  discourse  on  ^'the  connection  of  knowl- 
edge and  virtue."  The  conference  began  and  passed 
along  very  harmoniously;  but  the  Sabbath  it  cm- 
braced  was  a  season  of  interest  never  to  be  forgotten. 
We  met  at  the  Methodist  Church  at  eight  o'clock, 
A.  M.     The  Lord's  supper  was  administered,  immedi- 


226  LIGHTS   AKD   SHADES   OF 

atelj  after  tlie  ordination  of  tlie  deacons,  by  Bishop 
Ilamline.  Then  followed  the  relation  of  Christian 
experience.  "What  a  heaven  below  was  here  realized ! 
In  immediate  connection  with  this,  the  Bishop,  in  his 
own  peculiarly-impressive  way,  baptized  our  infant, 
Henry  Eugene.  The  religious  services  which  fol- 
lowed were  all  signalized  by  the  presence  of  the 
great  Head  of  the  Church.  To  us  it  was  a  most». 
memorable  conference,  but   thus  much  must    suffice. 

By  the  23d  of  September  we  found  ourselves  at 
our  post  again  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  and  enjoying  a 
blessed  Sabbath  with  the  missionaries  and  others, 
bound  for  Lake  Superior.  There  were  with  us  Bev. 
E.  H.  Day,  of  Eagle  river,  Bev.  B.  C.  Crane,  on  his 
way  to  Kewawenon,  Bev.  P.  0.  Johnson  and  Bev.  P. 
Marksman,  of  the  Saut;  also,  brother  Pulsifer  and 
wife,  going  as  teachers  to  La  Pointe,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  American  Board.  Brother  P.  was  de- 
tained with  us  eight  weeks  before  he  could  take  pas- 
sage to  La  Pointe. 

At  our  communion  season  held  at  Little  Bapids,  at 
this  time,  it  was  most  pleasing  to  see  Mr.  Babcock,  of 
Detroit,  the  Lidian  Agent,  and  his  clerk,  Mr.  Smith, 
kneeling  at  the  same  bench  with  some  of  our  Indian 
brethren,  and  partaking  with  them  of  the  holy  com- 
munion. How  completely  does  the  love  of  Christ 
annihilate  every  principle  and  feeling  of  caste,  and 
enable  all  of  God's  children  to  meet  as  brethren! 
Our  religious  meetings,  both  at  the  village  and  at 
Little  Bapids,  were  seasons  of  spiritual  good. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  227 


CHAPTER   XY. 

TRAVELS  AND    EFFORTS  AMONG  THE    INDIANS 

DURING    THE    FALL   AND  WINTE  R— EFF  0  R  T  S 

AMONG    THE    WHITE    POPULATION. 

Our  missionary  brethren,  after  some  detention  at 
the  Saut,  were  at  their  posts  doing  battle,  valiantly, 
for  the  cause  of  Christ.  With  the  sanction  and  en- 
couragement of  our  Missionary  Board,  it  was  thought 
best  to  build  a  mission-house  at  Naomikong.  This 
place  had  been  noted  as  a  great  fishery,  and  hence 
the  desire  of  the  Indians  to  concentrate  here.  Soon 
after  our  return  from  conference  I  employed  two 
carpenters  to  put  up  the  body  of  a  plain  hewed-log- 
house,  one  story  and  a  half  high.  Brother  Marks- 
man and  myself,  accompanied,  as  far  as  the  saw-mill, 
by  another  person,  went  to  Naomikong  in  a  large 
batteau.  The  first  day  we  encountered  adverse  winds, 
and  just  as  we  neared  Point  Iroquois,  one  of  those 
whirlwinds,  common  in  that  region,  swept  by  us, 
making  a  terrible  roaring,  and  might  have  capsized 
us,  but  brother  M.'s  instinctive  perception  of  such 
dangers  enablecl  him  to  take  the  warning  before  it 
reached  us.  By  a  desperate  eifort  we  got  out  of  its 
track  in  time.  It  passed  us  with  great  force,  and 
was  over  in  a  moment's  time.     We  had  been  toiling 


228  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

long — indeed,  it  was  three  o'clock  at  night  before  Tve 
had  landed  on  the  little  island  near  the  point,  and 
■were  ready  to  rest  our  -vveary  limbs  after  our  pro- 
tracted toils.  ** 

The  next  day  we  reached  Kaomikong,  about  four 
o'clock,  P.  M.  Our  carpenters  arrived  the  same  day. 
The  next  morning,  26th  of  October,  we  selected  a 
site  for  the  mission  in  a  beautiful  pine  grove,  on  the 
shore  of  a  little  cove,  or  bay.  Aided  by  the  chiefs 
we  soon  cleared  a  spot  for  the  building,  and  the  car- 
penters had  commenced  to  get  out  the  timber.  After 
night,  a  fine  moonlight  night,  we  manned  a  large 
batteau  with  six  Indians,  went  to  the  saw-mill  and 
got  a  load  of  lumber,  and  returned  just  before  mid- 
nio-ht.  Rest,  even  in  a  tent,  was  sweet  after  such 
exertion.  Saturday  we  went  and  got  another  boat- 
load of  lumber.  This  work  ended,  we  were  glad  to 
lay  aside  our  secular  employment  and  prepare  for 
the  Sabbath. 

On  the  Lord's  day  we  had  several  religious  services. 
One  thing  gave  us  great  pleasure — the  Sabbath  was 
quietly  observed  by  all  the  Indians.  Although  it  was 
in  the  hight  of  the  fishing  season,  not  one  was  seen 
to  go  to  his  nets.  Monday  and  Tuesday  we  worked 
on  the  mission  premises.  Wednesday  we  left  for 
home.  After  reaching  Point  Iroquois  we  had  head 
wind,  and  toiled  hard  till  one  o'clock  at  night  before 
we  camped.  Thursday  morning,  by  eight  o'clock,  we 
had  arrived  safely,  thankful  to  our  heavenly  Father 
for  his  preserving  mercy. 


MISSIOXARY  LIFE.  229 


SECOND    TRIP. 

November  13th  we  left  a2i;am  for  Naomikons:. 
Had,  as  usual,  great  perplexity  in  getting  men,  and 
every  thing  in  trim  for  the  journey.  We  had  calm 
most  of  the  way.  Thursday  and  Friday,  aided  by  J. 
M.,  nailed  the  shingles  on  our  mission-house.  Two 
hard  days'  work,  but,  by  beginning  at  daylight  and 
working  till  dark,  it  was  accomplished.  "We  should 
have  returned  the  next  day,  but  were  held  by  adverse 
wind.  Sabbath  we  had  reliojious  services,  amono; 
which  was  the  administration  of  the  Lord's  supper. 
We  were  blessed  in  waiting  upon  God,  but  nothing 
unusual  characterized  the  meetings.  Monday,  by 
eight  o'clock  at  night,  we  had  reached  home. 

THIRD    TRIP. 

January  3,  1850,  Rev.  P.  0.  Johnson  and  myself 
went  to  visit  this  station.  We  rode  the  first  six  miles, 
and  stopped  over  night,  and  held  meeting  with  several 
families  residing  there.  Next  day,  after  a  snow-shoe 
walk  of  twenty-two  miles,  we  arrived  at  the  saw-mill. 
At  night  we  held  meeting  with  the  Waishkee  Indians 
residing  here.  Saturday  we  followed  a  rough  trail 
leading  through  the  woods,  most  of  the  way,  to  reach 
the  mission — distance  some  eight  miles.  On  our 
arrival  found  brother  and  sister  Marksman  hard  at 
work  making  preparations  for  the  Sabbath.  Our  new 
mission-house  looked  very  neat  and  comfortable.  We 
were  glad   to   find   such  a   home  in  the  wilderness. 


230  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

and  to  share,  for  a  time,  in  the  results  of  much  per- 
plexity and  hard  toil.  We  spent  the  day  in  visiting 
among  the  Indians.  Brother  Johnson  preached  at 
night.  To  those  present  it  was  a  time  of  spiritual 
good. 

Sabbath  morning  we  had  a  memorable  love -feast. 
The  Indians  are  apt  to  speak  too  long  in  the  class 
meeting  or  the  love-feast.  But  not  so  here.  Twenty- 
two  spoke  in  less  than  an  hour.  Besides,  a  full  pro- 
portion of  the  time  was  occupied  in  singing.  Im- 
mediately after  love-feast  we  administered  the  Lord's 
supper.  Twenty-eight  Communed.  Both  rooms  of 
the  mission-house  were  filled,  and  the  stairs  crowded 
with  children.  At  an  invitation  thirteen  came  forward 
to  unite  with  the  Church.  One  had  been  a  Roman 
Catholic — three  were  children.  It  was  a  time  of 
God's  power  in  the  congregation ;  so  much  so  that 
we  felt  constrained  to  dispense  with  the  usual  sermon 
at  that  hour,  and  turn  it  into  a  prayer  meeting.  And 
such  was  the  engagedness  of  the  members  and  seek- 
ers that  the  meeting  lasted  till  one  o'clock,  P.  M. 
Like  Peter,  on  the  mount  of  vision,  we  felt  to  say, 
''it  is  good  to  be  here.'' 

Just  now  old  mother  Waishkee  arrived,  having 
walked  all  the  way  from  the  saw-mill.  Finding  that 
she  was  too  late  she  turned  about  for  home,  to  get 
there,  if  possible,  to  attend  the  meeting  at  night,  at 
her  son's.  After  getting  some  refreshment  we  started 
for  the  saw-mill,  accompanied  by  brother  Marksman. 
Just  before  our  arrival  we  passed  the  old  lady,  who 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  231 

•was  trudging  along,  evidently  very  weary.  Kow  we 
met  her  youngest  son,  a  youth  of  some  eighteen 
years,  going  to  meet  his  mother,  bearing  in  his  hand 
some  sliali-gah-mit-ta.  "AVell,"  say  you,  "vrhat  was 
that?"  It  was  nothing  less  than  some  tea,  which  ho 
brought  in  the  nee-hish-ah-Mch^  or  teapot.  An  act 
this  of  great  kindness  to  his  aged  and  infirm  mother. 
What  a  striking  evidence  of  filial  afi'ection!  But 
such  a  mother  ousfht  to  have  lovincr  and  dutiful 
children.''^ 

We  met  at  seven  o' clock,  P.  M.,  at  the  chiefs. 
There,  were  about  twenty  present,  mostly  Indians. 
After  preaching  I  administered  the  Lord's  supper 
to  six  persons,  besides  the  preachers.  The  power  of 
God  was  strikingly  manifest.  Old  sister  W.  was 
wonderfully  blessed.  It  was  some  time  before  she 
could  sufficiently  restrain  her  -sobs  and  cries  to  receive 


*  Croesus,  the  Lydian  king,  once  inquired  of  Solon  "which  of  man- 
kind, in  all  his  travels,  he  had  found  the  most  truly  happy.  'One  Tel- 
lus,'  rei^lied  Solon,  *a  citizen  of  Athens,  a  very  honest  and  good  man, 
who  lived  all  his  days  without  indigence,  had  always  seen  his  country 
in  a  flourishing  condition,'  etc.  As  he  flattered  himself  of  being  ranked 
in  the  second  degree  of  happiness,  he  asked  him,  'who  of  all  those  he 
had  seen  was  next  in  felicity  to  Tellus  ?'  Solon  answered,  *  Cleobis  and 
Biton,  of  Argos,  two  brothers,  who  had  left  behind  them  a  perfect 
pattern  of  fraternal  aflfcction,  and  of  respect  due  from  children  to  their 
parents.  Upon  a  solemn  festival,  when  their  mother,  a  priestess  of 
Juno,  "was  to  go  to  the  temple,  the  oxen  that  were  to  draw  her  not  being 
ready,  the  two  sons  put  themselves  to  the  yoke,  and  drew  their  mother's 
chariot  thither,  which  was  above  five  miles  distant.  All  the  mothers  of 
the  place,  filled  with  admiration,  congratula.ted  the  priestess  on  the  piety 
of  her  sons,'"  etc.  (Rollin's  History,  vol.  i,  pp.  301,  302.)  See  the 
Recount  above  where  this  old  lady  was  drawn  on  a  hand-train,  about  six 
miles,  to  meeting  by  her  daughters-in-law. 


232  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

the  cup  of  blessing.  She  doubtless  felt  well  paid  for 
having  walked  sixteen  miles  to  worship  the  Great 
Spirit.  Monday,  after  a  walk  of  about  thirty  miles, 
as  our  trail  led  us,  we  reached  home.  Some  places 
passed  over  ice  so  rough  as  to  render  it  extremely 
severe  and  difficult  crossing.  Brother  J.  bruised  his 
toes  badly.  But  we  were  safely  home,  and  had  much 
cause  for  thankfulness. 

FOURTH   TRIP. 

March  29th  brother  Johnson  and  myself  went  again 
to  visit  the  station  at  N.  What  till  then  was  a  nov- 
elty, ^Ye  took  a  sled  and  two  horses.  Indeed,  it  is 
but  rarely  that  the  ice  on  Lake  Superior  will  admit 
of  this.  Some  places  it  was  heavy  going  for  the 
team,  on  account  of  a  late  fall  of  snow;  but  before 
nine  o'clock  at  night  we  were  at  Naomikong.  We 
found  sister  Marksman  in  poor  health. 

Saturday  was  spent  in  visiting  the  Indians.  They 
were  considerably  scattered;  had  just  commenced 
sugar-making — a  late  beginning — evidence  of  the 
backwardness  of  the  season.  We  met  at  night  for 
divine  worship.  On  Sabbath  we  had  love-feast, 
preaching,  and  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper. 
The  meetings  were  not  so  deeply  interesting  as  those 
before  mentioned.  We  had  reason  to  fear  that  the 
enemy  had  been  at  work  sowing  tares  among  the 
people.  We  went  over  to  the  saw-mill,  and  held 
meetinir  at  ni^ht.  Returned  to  the  Saut  the  next 
day. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  233 

RELIGIOUS    SERVICES  AT  THE  VILLAGE. 

The  moral  soil  here  appeared  as  cold  and  sterile 
as  the  physical.  Still  we  endeavored  in  the  discharge 
of  duty  to  hope  against  hope.  In  pleasant  weather, 
when  there  was  no  arrival  of  mails  or  steamboats, 
our  meetings  were  well  attended,  and  were  often 
seasons  of  interest  and  profit.  But  it  frequently 
seemed  that  the  seed  sown  fell  by  the  wayside,  and 
was  devoured  by  the  fowls  of  the  air.  Balls,  pleas- 
ure parties,  business,  any  and  every  thing  else,  save 
the  concerns  of  the  soul,  attracted  the  attention  and 
occupied  the  time  of  the  great  mass  of  the  com- 
munity. As  the  season  advanced  our  congregations 
enlarged.  During  my  long  absence  in  the  summer 
the  meetings  were  kept  up  by  brother  Johnson.  Min- 
isters from  abroad  often  preached  to  our  people  dur- 
ing the  traveling  season. 

Sabbath,  July  21st,  I  preached  to  a  very  attentive 
congregation  on  occasion  of  the  death  of  Zachary 
Taylor,  late  President  of  the  United  States,  which 
had  occurred  on  the  9th  inst.,  from  the  words,  "  The 
fashion  of  this  ivorlcl  imsseth  aiuayJ' 

In  connection  with  other  duties,  I  had  charge 
when  at  home  of  an  interesting  Bible  class.  In  our 
religious  meetings  we  were  favored  with  mercy  drops 
and  gently-distilling  grace,  if  not  copious  showers. 
With  all  our  discouragements,  we  had  reason  to  be- 
lieve that  we  were  employed  in  our  Master's  businesSj 
and  that  our  labor  was  ^'not  in  vain  in  the  Lord." 


234  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 


CHAPTER   XYI. 

TEIP  TO  SAXDY  LAKE  — SCEXES  AND  IXCIDEXTS 

Thursday,  May  16tli,  I  took  passage  on  board  the 
propeller  Independence  to  visit  the  Lake  Superior 
missions.  I  had  as  my  traveling  associate  Mr.  Saw- 
yer, who  was  on  his  way  to  Bad  river  as  a  school- 
teacher, under  the  direction  of  the  American  Board. 
Our  boat  had  been  altered  from  a  passenger  into  a 
freight  craft,  and  was  not  very  comfortable  or  agree- 
able for  passengers.  The  mate's  room  was  assigned 
to  us,  though  in  the  worst  part  of  the  boat  to  feel 
the  motion.  "We  had,  as  was  too  common,  annoy- 
ances aboard,  arising  chiefly  from  drinking  and  pro- 
fanity. After  we  passed  Pointe  au  Pin  a  stiff  head 
wind  gave  us  a  very  rough  and  chopped-up  sea,  and 
made  me  quite  seasick.  We  ran  into  W^aishkees 
Bay,  and  found  shelter.  Saturday,  18th,  we  passed 
White  Fish  Point.  At  four  o'clock,  P.  M.,  Michipi- 
coton  Island  was  in  sight  to  the  north-west,  and  the 
Pictured  Rocks  to  the  south-west. 

Sabhaih,  IdtJi.  It  commenced  blowing  from  the 
north-west  about  four  o'clock,  A.  M.  At  eight 
o'clock  it  blew  very  hard,  and  got  up  a  very  rough 
sea.  I  became  very  sick.  Our  ship  was  badly 
trimmed — too  much   lading  forward.      She  ran  her 


k 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  235 

bows  too  much  under  the  seas.  The  captain  had  de- 
signed to  make  for  Grand  Island  or  Presque  Isle; 
but  the  stern  was  so  much  out  of  water  that  the 
boat  would  not  mind  her  helm.  At  nine  o'clock  the 
storm  was  increasing,  and  we  were  taking  in  consid- 
erable water.  Our  boat  rolled  like  a  log.  Stoves, 
tables,  barrels,  boxes,  trunks,  etc.,  were  thrown  about 
in  utter  confusion.  I  left  my  berth,  wrapped  up  in  a 
large  quilt,  and  lay  on  the  floor.  In  this  manner  I 
avoided  farther  seasickness.  At  one  o'clock,  P.  M., 
the  boat  labored  hard  and  made  bad  weather.  I 
heard  the  captain  say,  in  a  low  tone,  "She  is  run- 
ning under  as  fast  as  she  can ;"  four  feet  of  water  in 
the  hold  forward.  Five  horses  and  four  oxen  in  the 
bows  had  a  serious  time.  The  horses  got  loose,  and 
were  made  fast  again  wfth  much  trouble  and  risk. 
The  mate  was  washed  under  them  two  or  three  times. 
Only  one  of  the  oxen  survived;  the  three  to  lee- 
ward actually  drowned;  and  a  more  pitiable  sight  I 
had  seldom  seen  than  those  three  oxen  lying  dead, 
side  hy  side.  And  there  they  still  remained  to  weigh 
us  down;  they  could  not  be  removed.  More  than 
five  tuns  of  hay  were  on  the  upper  deck,  considerable 
of  which  was  now  thrown  overboard.  But  for  this 
the  captain  thought  we  must  have  gone  to  the  bot- 
tom. The  pump  was  worked  briskly,  and  several 
were  kept  bailing  near  the  engine.  The  water  had 
nearly  reached  the  fire.  By  four  o'clock,  P.  M.,  the 
wind  began  to  die  away;  still  we  had  a  heavy  sea. 
VV^e  were  soon  measurably  relieved,  being  sheltered 


236  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

hj  Manito  Island  and  Point  Kewena^v.  Before  sun- 
down we  took  supper,  or  rather  breakfast,  as  it  wag 
our  first  meal  for  the  day;  at  the  same  time  doubled 
Point  Kewenaw.  Evening  was  delightfully  clear,  but 
cold.  The  storm  had  passed,  and  all  was  stillness 
and  calm.  The  land  of  the  Point  loomed  up  to  our 
left  in  grandeur  and  majesty.  The  sun  bathed  his 
golden  plumes  in  the  pure  blue  element,  and  dis- 
appeared. The  light-house  from  Manito  Island  shed 
a  soft,  clear  light,  which  we  saw  for  miles,  till  it 
seemed  to  sink  in  the  Lake.  Meanwhile  light  from 
the  Copper  Harbor  light-house  was  now  clearly  seen, 
and  now  it  disappeared,  alternately,  till  we  came 
abreast. 

By  the  erection  of  those  light-houses  a  great  ben- 
efit has  been  conferred  on  mariners  and  the  traveling 
public  generally.  We  had  once  before  entered  this 
harbor  in  the  night — a  dark  night  too — when  our 
only  beacon  was  a  globe  lamp,  sent  out  in  a  yawl, 
and  placed  upon  a  lone  rock  in  the  channel.  Such 
had  been  the  march  of  improvement  in  the  brief 
space  of  a  few  years,  prior  to  which  the  cheerful 
light  of  the  camp  fire  had  served  as  a  beacon  to  the 
Indian  in  his  barb  canoe,  to  give  him  notice  of  im- 
pending danger. 

By  ten  o'clock  at  night  we  were  all  safe  within 
harbor.  The  holy  Sabbath  had  passed  without  afford- 
ing an  opportunity  for  public  worship.  But  seldom 
had  I  felt  a  greater  calm  within  than  during  this 
stormy  day.     How  good  is  it  at  such  times  to  be 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  237 

able,  as  tlie  "untutored   Indian,"  only  more   intel- 
ligently, 

"  To  see  God  in  clouds, 

And  hear  him  in  the  wind  j" 

and  to  feel,  at  all  times,  that  "underneath  are  the 
everlasting  arms." 

Monday  visited  Fort  Wilkins.  Every  thing  still 
looked  neat  and  tasteful,  but  it  was  nearly  deserted. 
So  was  also  Copper  Harbor.  Snow  was  still  visible 
along  the  shore,  "\^^e  ran  into  Agate  Harbor,  and 
were  detained  nearly  a  whole  day  to  take  on  wood. 
In  the  night  ran  up  opposite  Eagle  river,  and  at  one 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  were  aground  on  the  reef.  We  did 
not  get  loose  till  nearly  ten.  Stopped  some  nine 
hours  at  the  Ontonagon.  On  the  23d  we  reached 
La  Pointe  in  time  to  dine  at  the  mission  of  the  Amer- 
ican Board. 

During  the  afternoon  we  made  arrangements  for 
our  coasting  voyage.  The  N.  F.  Company  furnished 
me  vdth  two  men  and  a  boat.  Mr.  Carlton,  the  black- 
smith, from  Fond  du  Lac,  was  to  accompany  us  as 
far  as  his  home. 

May  24th  left  La  Pointe  at  six  o'clock,  A.  M.,  a 
delightful  day,  and  made  a  pretty  good  run.  We 
reached  Cranberry  river,  some  forty-six  miles  from 
La  Pointe,  and  camped  at  eight  o'clock,  P.  M. 

Saturday,  25th,  we  ai;pse  between  three  and  foui 
o'clock  and  commenced  our  journey,  hoping  to  reach 
Fond  du  Lac  before  Sabbath;  a  long  pull,  some  sixty 
miles,  before  us.     It  rained   part  of  the  forenoon. 


238  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

Had  VN'iiid  from  nearly  all  quarters  through  the  day, 
and  a  heavy  rollmg  sea.  But  by  a  vigorous  effort 
we  had  landed  at  Fond  du  Lac  by  half-past  twelve 
o'clock  at  night,  and  were  under  the  mission  roof. 
We  were  much  favored  in  making  so  quick  a  trip. 
Brother  Holt  and  his  family  were  out  nine  days  on 
the  same  route  the  fall  previous. 

Sabbath  preached  twice  to  the  Indians  that  came 
out,  few  in  number,  and  fewer  that  seemed  to  interest 
themselves  in  the  message  of  the  Gospel.  Monday 
transacted  the  business  connected  with  the  mission, 
and  met  the  Indians  again  in  council.  They  appeared 
much  more  mellow  in  their  feelings,  less  haughty  and 
dictatorial  than  the  previous  year.  Still  they  had 
much  fault  to  find  about  matters  so  trifling  as  not 
to  be  worth  naming. 

Tuesday,  28th,  was  waked  very  early  by  the  sing- 
ing of  a  whippowil.  Arose  before  four  o'clock,  and 
left  Fond  du  Lac  by  half-past  six.  At  seven  com- 
menced crossing  Grand  Portage.  My  men  went  ahead 
on  Monday,  and  carried  the  things  over  the  Portage. 
John  Street,  interpreter  at  Fond  du  Lac,  accompanied 
us.  By  half-past  ten  we  were  over  the  Grand  Port- 
age. At  twelve  we  had  crossed  Knife  Portage.  Here 
we  dined,  gummed  our  canoe,  and  left  at  half-past  two, 
P.  M.  At  seven,  P.  M.,  we  had  ascended  the  Grand 
Bapids,  and  were  camped  on  a  beautiful  green,  near 
the  delightful  pine  grove  which  overlooked  the  Bapids. 

At  the  end  of  Knife  Portage  we  overtook  Mrs. 
Hughs,  daughter  of  Mr.  Oaks,  of  La  Pointe,  on  her 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  239 

way  to  the  Mississippi.  She  had  lost  her  husband 
about  a  year  before,  and  was  moving  -with  her  two 
little  fatherless  children.  She  had  a  fine  large  canoe, 
and  two  excellent  voijagcurs.  We  had  traveled  in 
company  for  the  afternoon,  and  now  our  tents  stood 
close  together,  and  a  bright  blazing  fire  between,  an- 
swering for  us  all.  There  noted  in  my  journal:  "I 
feel  great  peace  within  in  waiting  on  God,  and  great 
confidence  in  his  blessing  on  the  work  of  my  hands. 
Have  the  assurance  that  God  is  with  me,  and  what 
more  can  I  desire?  Only  a  greater  manifestation  of 
his  presence.  0  for  grace  to  love  and  serve  him 
more !" 

"Wednesday,  29th,  we  were  up  at  four  o'clock, 
breakfasted,  and  w^ere  ready  to  leave  before  six. 
Made  a  fine  run  for  the  day.  The  two  canoes  kept 
in  company,  and  in  the  evening  we  camped  together, 
a  short  distance  up  the  East  Savan  river.  Our  men 
had  worked  hard,  and  we  pitched  our  tents  in  good 
season  to  be  rested  for  the  morrow.  It  had  been  a 
cold,  windy  day,  and  was  followed  by  a  clear,  frosty 
nifrht.  But  all  was  cheerfulness  about  our  bri2;ht 
camp  fire.  Just  at  nightfall  a  little  bird  was  singing 
most  sweetly  near  us.  The  frogs  were  making  the 
air  vocal  with  their  homely  song.  The  stars  began 
to  light  up  the  heavens — and  how  rich  those  countless 
globes  of  light  in  the  transparency  of  a  nortliorn 
sky  I  All  we  saw  a'nd  heard  conspired  to  declare 
*'the  glory  of  God,"  and  to  show  forth  "his  handy- 
work." 

20 


2'i:0  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

Thursday,  SOtli,  we  were  ready  to  leave  our  resting- 
place  by  five  o'clock,  A.  M.  A  delightful  day.  We 
proceeded  steadily,  but  slowly,  up  the  Savan,  the  most 
serpentine  river  I  ever  saw.  Now  we  would  go  to 
the  right,  then  to  the  left;  now  the  direction  we  had 
come,  and  then  the  contrary,  going  a  long  distance 
to  gain  a  little.  But  by  noon  we  had  reached  the 
head  of  the  Savan  river,  and  were  crossing  the  Savan 
Portage.  By  three  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  were  at  Sandy 
Lake,  found  a  canoe,  and  by  making  a  sail  out  of  a 
quilt,  we  sailed  over,  and  at  four  o'clock  we  were 
happy  to  meet  our  missionaries  once  more,  and  find 
all  well.  They  were  taken  by  surprise  at  our  getting 
along  so  early. 

During  the  evening  a  goodly  number  of  the  Indians 
came  out  to  see  me.  Among  these  was  an  old  woman, 
who  had  renounced  heathenism  the  winter  before  and 
embraced  Christianity.  She  said  that  she  was  very 
glad  that  JVo-sJie-sJia,  that  is,  her  grandson,  as  she 
called  me,  had  come  to -see  her.  She  went  by  the 
name  of  JVo-ko,  that  is,  grandmother.  It  is  an  ab- 
breviation of  No-ko-mis. 

Friday  we  observed  as  a  day  of  fasting  and  prayer. 
In  the  morning  visited  a  poor  sick  Indian,  who  was 
near  death's  door.  He  could  say  but  little.  The 
Indian  medicine  man  had  performed  over  him  for 
some  time,  but  brother  Spates  had  told  him  plainly 
of  the  wickedness  of  these  heathen  rites,  and  ho  had 
turned  him  off.  Made  a  few  visits  in  the  afternoon. 
At  four  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  called  the  people  together 


/ 

MISSIONARY    LIFE.  211 

for   worship.      Quite    a    congregation   assembled,   to 
whom  I  prcaclied. 

■WAR-DANCE. 

Previous  to  our  meeting  a  large  company  had  col- 
lected in  another  place,  and  were  engaged  in  a  war- 
dance.  They  were  almost  naked,  and  were  painted 
most  grotesquely.  Their  heads  were  dressed  with 
painted  feathers  and  trinkets.  One  danced  in  a  buf- 
falo skin  with  horns  on  his  head.  Four  or  five  were 
drumming  while  the  others  danced.  Those  gymnastics 
were  vulgar  and  most  revoltingly  unseemly.  They 
danced  around  a  grave  in  the  open  air.  Occasionally 
they  would  yell  like  savages;  then  they  would  sit  down 
and  smoke,  and  at  intervals  one  would  make  a  speech. 
Before  our  meeting  had  progressed  far  several  of 
those  wild  painted  creatures  came  in  to  hear  the 
word  of  the  Lord. 

This  war-dance  was  gotten  up  by  some  of  the 
Indians  who  seemed  determined  to  go  to  war  with 
the  Sioux,  who  a  short  time  previous  had  murdered 
some  fourteen  of  the  Chippeways  at  Stillwater,  and 
one  near  Sauk  Rapids.  This  massacre  was  com- 
mitted under  the  influence  of  intoxication.  Since 
this  horrible  aifair  three  or  four  of  the  Chippeways 
had  killed  a  Sioux  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Snelling. 

Saturday  I  preached  again  in  the  forenoon.  The 
congregation  was  not  large.  I  notified  them  that  I 
would  meet  with  them  in  the  afternoon  to  hear  from 
them  about  matters  and  things  which  concerned  them, 


•242  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

Before  the  meeting  brothers  S.  and  J.  were  down 
among  the  lodges.  A  company  of  Indians,  wrapped 
in  their  dirty  blankets  and  with  their  long  pipes, 
passed  by.  They  were  about  to  smoke  over  some 
important  subject  upon  which  a  decision  must  be 
made.  We  soon  found  out  what  was  to  pay,  as  a 
result  of  the  subject  discussed.  Now  several  Indians 
were  driving  the  Government  oxen ;  many  others  were 
standing  and  looking  on.  There  was  one  running 
with  a  gun.  He  fired  and  the  ox  dropped.  They 
gathered  around  like  a  drove  of  hungry  wolves;  took 
large  stones  and  beat  the  ox  in  the  head  till  they  had 
killed  him.  In  a  very  short  time  he  was  cut  into 
pieces  and  in  process  of  cooking.  The  ox-killing 
business  kept  the  Indians  back  from  the  meeting  till 
late.  But  at  length  we  had  a  pretty  good  turn-out, 
and  an  interview  of  considerable  interest. 

The  old  chief  was  not  present,  although  he  had 
promised  the  day  before  to  attend.  He  was  a  weak, 
fickle-minded  creature,  and  of  but  little  account,  un- 
less it  was  to  discuss  the  merit  of  something  to  be 
appropriated  to  the  stomach  from  the  race  of  bipeds 
or  quadrupeds. 

The  position  taken  by  I-aJi-le-tiva-ive-diing,  the 
speaker,  and  who,  in  point  of  talent,  stood  at  the 
head  of  the  band,  produced  a  good  efi'ect,  and  is 
worthy  of  record.  He  first  addressed  himself  to  the 
Indians,  substantially  as  follows:  ^'I  want  to  be  civ- 
ilized. Who  knows  how  soon  we  are  going  to  be 
removed  away  from  this  place?     Perhaps  I  will  be 


MISSIOXARV   LIFE.  243 

in  one  place,  and  my  ^yife  in  another,  and  my  cliil- 
dren  in  another.  Some  of  us  go  to  listen  to  the 
missionaries,  and  when  Ave  go  home  we  say,  who  are 
these  men  who  come  to  talk  to  us?  I  do  not  care 
whether  you  laugh  at  me  or  not,  I  am  determined  to 
pursue  a  dijQferent  course." 

3Iartin  Luther  made  a  short  speech,  addressed  to 
me,  in  which  he  expressed  his  thanks  that  I  had  been 
preserved  to  meet  with  them  once  more.  He  said 
that  "he  was  poor,  but  he  was  not  going  to  do  as 
the  Indians  at  Fond  du  Lac — want  the  missionary  to 
pay  him  for  coming  to  meeting."  He  said,  "Our 
missionary  has  too  much  to  do  to  be  left  alone;  he 
ought  to  have  more  help.  I  hope  you  will  send 
somebody  to  assist  him."  Martin  was  one  of  our 
Christian  Indians,  and  a  worthy  man.  On  one  occa- 
sion I  felt  myself  rebuked  by  his  piety.  He  had 
assisted  in  carrying  our  things  across  the  portage. 
We  had  dined  together,  and  were  about  to  separate. 
Martin  proposed  that  we  should  pray  first,  which 
would  not  have  been  done  had  he  not  been  thus 
mindful.  Truly  religion  is  the  same  wherever  found. 
Those  that  love  God  love  the  atmosphere  of  prayer. 

After  he  sat  down  I-ah-he-tiva-ive-dung  arose,  and 
made  a  speech  that  displayed  considerable  eloquence. 
But  to  realize  its  power  the  man  must  be  seen  and 
heard.  He  had  nothing  on  but  his  moccasins,  and 
an  old  dirty  blanket  drawn  around  his  body,  with 
his  arms  and  shoulders  bare.  He  advanced  with  a 
firm  st-^p,  and  gave  me  his  hand.     He  commenced: 


244  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

"My  friend,  I  want  to  say  a  few  words.  I  am 
going  to  speak  very  plainly.  What  I  say  does  not 
come  out  of  the  mouth  of  a  chief.  I  look  behind 
my  back,  and  see  what  I  have  done.  I  am  going  to 
turn  over  a  new  leaf.  I  am  very  poor.  I  have  no 
shirt  but  the  black  shirt.  I  shall  not  ask  those  who 
have  no  shirts  to  go  with  me.^  I  am  determined  to 
go  with  them  that  have  shirts,  [the  missionaries  and 
other  Christians.]  I  shall  look  to  that  stove,  [point- 
ing to  the  stove,  as  one  of  the  fruits  of  civilization.] 
If  the  Great  Spirit  is  willing,  he  will  receive  me; 
if  not,  he  will  not.  I  agree  with  my  brother  that 
has  just  spoken,  that  our  missionary  has  not  had 
sufficient  help.  I  hope  that  the  time  will  come,when 
some  of  my  children  will  be  able  to  write  such  a 
letter  as  you  read  from  my  cousin,  [Peter  Ringing 
Sky,  who  was  then  attending  school  at  the  Albion 
Seminary,  Michigan.]  This  is  all  I  have  to  say. 
You  may  depend  on  my  word." 

After  the  meeting  I-ah-he-tiva-ive-dung  came  into 
the  mission-house.  I  gave  him  a  shirt.  I  told  him 
I  gave  him  that  to  cover  his  body,  and  I  hoped  that 
he  would  pray  to  the  Lord  Jesus  that  he  would  grant 
him  the  robe  of  righteousness  to  cover  his  soul.  I 
conversed  with  him  also  with  reference  to  his  being 
baptized  and  married  in  a  Christian  manner. 

jSahhatJi,  June  2.     Early  in  the  morning  had  an 


*  The  idea  here  intended  is,  probably,  that  he  should  not  select  Euch 
for  his  associates. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  245 

interview  with  I.  and  liis  wife.  She  was  willinn;  to 
be  married,  but  wanted  to  wait  and  listen  awhile  to 
the  missionary  before  she  was  fully  prepared  to 
renounce  heathenism.  She  thought  that  she  should 
soon  follow  her  husband;  was  willing  that  he  and 
the  children  should  be  baptized.  She  had  been  a 
great  heathen — a  medicine  woman,  and  one  who  ini- 
tiated others  into  those  heathen  rites.  The  conces- 
sions she  here  made,  and  the  steps  she  took,  were 
quite  an  advance  for  her.  About  10  o'clock  we  got 
the  Indians  out  for  love-feast — it  was  an  unusually 
interesting  time.  God's  .power  was  displayed  in  our 
midst.  The  little  company  of  witnesses  for  the  Savior 
spoke  very  feelingly. 

It  was  after  noon  before  we  met  for  public  worship. 
At  the  commencement  I  married  I-ah-he-hua-iue-dung, 
and  baptized  him  and  his  children.  Named  him  Ben- 
jamin F.  Tefft.  His  children,  the  three  present,  which 
were  baptized,  we  named  Julia,  Abby,  and  Caroline, 
the  last  two  after  my  wife  and  daughter.  Then  read 
the  ten  commandments.  In  the  evening  we  met  for 
the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper.  No  formal  ser- 
mon was  preached  in  connection  with  any  of  these 
services,  but  the  explanations  and  remarks  inter- 
spersed through  the  whole  amounted  to  about  the 
same  thing.  This  last  season  was  a  very  precious 
one  to  all  who  knew  any  thing  about  experimental 
religion.  The  services  were  closed  and  the  benedic- 
tion pronounced,  but  no  one  made  any  motion  to 
leave  the  hruse.     They  remained,  as  if  waiting  for 


'246  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

sometliing  more.  We  sung  a  hymn  or  two,  during 
which  time  B.,  one  who  had  been  reclaimed  from  a 
backslidden  state,  seemed  overpowered  with  the  pres- 
ence of  God,  cried  aloud,  and  got  down  on  his  knees 
to  weep  and  pray.  We  then  had  a  season  of  prayer 
together,  and  it  was  a  time  of  melting  mercy.  When 
the  Indians  commenced  to  leave  the  house  the  Chris- 
tian ones  came  and  gave  the  missionaries  their  hand. 
The  expression  was  repeated  to  each  other,  Ong-wam- 
e-ze,  that  is,  he  courageous.  I.'s  wife  brought  the  little 
children  I  had  baptized  to  shake  hands  with  me,  the 
eldest  first,  and  so  on.  She  took  the  infant's  hand 
and  put  it  into  my  hand,  as  a  token  that  it  now 
belonged  to  us.  She  did  not  offer  her  own  hand 
because  she  had  not  yet  been  baptized,  and  she  seemed 
to  think  she  was  either  unworthy,  or  had  no  right 
to  do  so. 

Martin  Luther  went  and  took  her  by  the  hand,  and 
exhorted  her  not  to  let  her  husband  and  children  leave 
her  behind.  Then  he  took  I-ah-be-twa-we-dung  by 
the  hand,  and  gave  him  a  most  affectionate  exhorta- 
tion to  steadfastness. 

During  all  the  exercises  of  the  day  a  number  of 
wild  Indians  crowded  into  the  house,  and  looked  on 
with  astonishment.  It  began  to  appear  to  us  as  if 
the  Lord  had  commenced  a  very  gracious  work,  and 
was  about  to  open  a  great  door  of  usefulness  in 
that  wilderness  after  so  long  sowing  the  seed. 

Just  before  our  last  meeting  a  company  of  young 
men,  stripped,  painted,  and  decorated  with  feathers, 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  247 

bells,  etc.,  about  their  licads  and  arms,  were  playing 
ball."^  Such  are  the  strange  contrasts  constantly 
meeting  the  missionary.  Hotv  ignorant,  how  de- 
praved and  wretched  are  those  poor  creatures  without 
the  Gospel!  Their  only  hope,  their  only  salvation, 
is  in  this.  As  they  are,  they  are  literally  "  without 
Christ  and  without  hope  in  the  world." 

Before  taking  leave  of  Sandy  Lake  it  may  be  well 
to  name  the  deep  afflictions  through  which  the  Indians 
had  passed  the  previous  winter.  It  was  anticipated 
the  year  before  that  the  very  high  waters  would  de- 
stroy the  rice  crop,  and,  if  so,  many  of  the  Indians 
must  starve.  This  had  now  become  matter  of  affect- 
ing history.  In  fact,  famine,  with  its  terrible  dis- 
closures, was  upon  them.  Brother  and  sister  Spates 
both  wrote  us  touching  accounts  of  this  calamity. 
In  view  of  this  fate  as  approaching,  the  missionary 
had  ordered  a  larger  supply  of  provisions  than  usual. 
He  had  been  blessed  the  previous  season  with  a  fine 
potato  crop.  By  this  means  multitudes  were  fed, 
and,  doubtless,  kept  from  starving.  Brother  S.  wrote 
me  that  "from  ten  to  fifty  a  day  came  to  them  to  get 
something  to  keep  soul  and  body  together."  He 
said  that  ''the  people  came  to  them  for  food  as  the 
Egyptians  did  to  Joseph."  Many  Indians  from  the 
far  north  came  to  Sandy  Lake — some  unable  to  reach 
there  without  help.  The  sights  which  daily  met  the 
eyes  of  the  missionaries- were  deeply  affecting.     What 


*The  game  called  hafjgattatcay ;  that  whicli  was  so  •  artfully  played  at 
Mackinaw  when  the  British  were  massacred. 

21 


248  LIGHTS  AXD  SHADES  OF 

a,  record  would  it  make  if  the  sufferings  of  this  poor 
neglected  race  were  only  told !  As  an  evidence  of 
their  distress,  some  of  those  farther  in  the  interior 
were  driven  to  cannibalism,  in  its  most  shocking 
forms,  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of  nature. 

Rev.  J.  P.  Bardwell,  Agent  of  the  A.  M.  A.,  writ- 
ing from  Oberlin,  Ohio,  November  6,  1852,  to  the 
Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs,  Washington,  D.  C, 
mentions  a  most  startling  fact  as  having  occurred 
west  of  Cass  Lake,  the  winter  to  which  we  refer. 
See  Annual  EejDort  of  the  Commissioner  of  Indian 
Affairs,  1852,  p.  51.  He  says:  "An  Indian,  with  his 
wife,  two  daughters,  and  a  son-in-law,  killed  and  ate 
fifteen  persons,  and  most  of  them  were  their  own 
children  and  grandchildren.  Many  of  the  principal 
men  among  them  begin  to  realize  that  they  must 
change  their  habits  or  perish,  and  are  disposed  to 
do  what  they  can  to  improve  their  condition." 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  249 


CHAPTER    XYII. 

RETURN  VOYAGE,  AND  THE   MISSIONS  EN  ROUTE. 

June  3d,  Monday,  parted  witli  the  missionaries 
and  Indians  at  Sandy  Lake,  and  were  retracing  our 
steps  across  tlie  portage.  It  had  rained  Sabbath 
evening,  and  we  found  the  bushes  along  the  trail  very 
wet.  But  after  a  wet  and  tiresome  walk,  we  were 
over  the  portage,  where  we  had  concealed  our  canoe 
among  the  bushes,  and  by  one  o'clock,  P.  M.,  were 
ready  to  get  aboard.  Vre  glided,  or  rather  paddled, 
down  the  river  and  entered  the  St.  Louis  long  before 
night,  and  camped  several  miles  below. 

Tuesday  we  were  up  by  half-past  three  o'clock,  and 
started.  By  adding  our  strength  to  the  force  of  the 
swift  current,  we  made  great  speed.  ^Ye  breakfasted 
near  La  Rivier  Acluta,  so  named  from  a  Frenchman 
of  this  name,  who,  it  is  said,  once  broke  his  canoe 
here.  This  is  a  considerable  stream,  and  for  some 
distance  before  it  enters  the  St.  Louis  dashes  and 
foams  madly  among  the  rocks,  over  extended  rapids. 
Soon  after  breakfast  it  became  very  foggy,  com- 
menced to  rain  hard  and  continued  till  in  the  after- 
noon. The  men  were  drenched,  and  our  things,  ex- 
cept such  as  I  could  shelter  with  my  India  rubber 
cloak.     But  the  rain  did  not  stop  us.     "We  reached 


k 


250  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

the  Grand  Portage,  ^vliere  we  dined,  and  then  ad- 
dressed ourselves  to  the  arduous  task  of  ^j6Zc7cm?(7  the 
rest  of  the  way.  Instead  of  having  a  canoe  or  boat, 
at  the  end  of  the  portage,  as  we  usually  did,  we  were 
forced  to  clamber  over  a  succession  of  high  hills, 
some  of  them  so  steep  and  muddy  withal,  that,  but 
for  the  aid  of  shrubs  and  bushes,  we  could  hardly 
have  ascended  or  descended  them.  But,  rain,  and 
mud,  and  hills  in  the  opposition,  by  four  o'clock, 
P.  M.,  we  were  at  Fond  du  Lac. 

At  the  previous  annual  conference  the  Mission 
Committee  determined  that,  unless  "the  signs  of  the 
times"  were  decidedly  more  encouraging  at  Fond  du 
Lac,  we  must  pull  up  stakes  there,  with  a  view  to 
extending  the  work  to  Mille  Lac.  The  Indians,  from 
that  point,  were  calling  loudly  on  us  for  help.  A 
good  report  was  brought  from  that  band,  showing 
their  anxious  desire  to  be  Christianized.  This  place 
is  distant  about  one  hundred  miles  from  Sandy  Lake, 
and  must  be  reached  thence  by  a  chain  of  lakes.  Li 
vievf  of  this  opening,  and  the  favorable  indications  at 
Sandy  Lake,  we  thought  best  to  have  brother  Holt 
remove  to  Sandy  Lake,  to  be  associated  with  brother 
Spates,  and,  in  connection  with  the  work  there,  if 
possible,  to  visit  and  explore  the  ground  at  Mille  Lac. 
The  necessary  arrangements  were  now  made,  and 
brother  Holt  and  family  were  to  lea'v  e  soon. 

Wednesday,  5th,  afternoon,  parted  with  our  friends 
at  F.  Although  the  river,  to  the  Entry,  is  vei-y 
vapid,  most  of  the  way,  a  stiff  wind  blowing  from  the 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  251 

east  caused  a  heavy  sea  to  set  back  into  the  river, 
and  we  had  to  pull  hard  to  get  down  stream.  We 
found  a  fine  place  to  camp  near  the  Entry,  sheltered 
by  trees  and  elevated  ground — from  the  wind — a 
large  log  to  build  our  fire  against,  and  so  situated 
as  not  to  smoke  us  in  the  tent.  Were  quite  comfort- 
able on  that  lone  and  desolate  shore.  The  follovring 
night  a  drenching  rain  poured  upon  us,  but  we  kept 
most  of  our  things  dry  by  means  of  our  tent. 

Thursday,  6th,  we  were  wind-bound,  and  no  tell- 
ing for  how  long  a  time.  Hard  wind  blovnng  from 
the  eastward,  having  the  rake  of  the  whole  Lake.  It 
may  be  imagined  how  the  mighty  waves  spent  their 
fury  against  our  shore. 

REFLECTIOXS   PEXXED   OX   THIS   WIXD-BOUXD   COAST. 

"  The  rain  has  ceased  and  the  weather  is  clearing 
up.  The  air  is  cool,  but  we  are  not  troubled  with  flies 
and  musketoes,  and  with  a  good  fire  we  can  be  very 
comfortable.  I  have  read  several  chapters  in  my 
Bible  this  morninfr,  and  have  read  throusih  Heddino; 
on  the  Discipline.  Find  enough  to  do  when  camped, 
to  fill  up,  profitably,  all  my  time  in  reading,  writing, 
etc.;  so  that  I  am  enabled,  at  such  seasons,  to  advance 
in  knowledge,  and,  I  trust,  in  grace,  and  a  preparation 
for  usefulness  in  public.  I  often  enjoy  sut^h  seasons 
of  seclusion  from  the  world,  in  which  I  can  commune 
with  God  and  my  own  soul. 

*'I  was  thinking  this  morning  that  a  person  wind- 
bound  on  a  desolate  coast  resembles  a  person  bound 


252  LIGHTS   AKD    SHADES    OF 

for  heaven,  -wliile  navigating  the  dangerous  sea  of  life. 
IIoAv  often  does  he  meet  with  opposing  "winds,  -when 
he  can  do  nothing  but  ^  stand  still  and  see  the  salva- 
tion of  God.'  In  the  midst  of  a  vile  world,  vrhich  is 
no  friend  to  grace,  he  often  j5nds  himself  standing 
almost  alone  and  forsaken,  with  wind  and  tide  against 
him.  But  his  trust  is  in  God.  Like  the  skillful  voy- 
ager, he  holds  himself  ready  to  make  the  best  of  every 
hinderance.  He  keeps  every  inch  of  ground  he  has 
gained.  In  the  calm,  or  when  wind  and  waves  are 
not  too  strong,  he  plies  his  oars,  and  when  the  breeze 
is  fair  spreads  his  sails,  rides  over  the  proudest  bil- 
lows, and  bids  the  world  adieu.  When  we  are  resting 
in  camp  w^e  are  acquiring  strength  for  more  arduous 
labor.  And  often  when  the  child  of  God  seems,  to 
himself,  to  be  accomplishing  little  or  nothing  for  the 
world,  he  is,  in  reality,  doing  the  most  important 
work.  The  trial  of  faith  is  as  necessary  as  any  thing 
else  to  the  Christian.  While  thus  situated  I  often 
think  of  my  dear  companion  and  the  little  ones  God 
has  given  us.  But  they  give  me  no  uneasy  concern. 
I  confidently  leave  them  in  the  hands  of  God,  believ- 
ino;  that  he  will  do  that  which  is  best,  both  for  them 
and  me.     Here  then  is  my  rock,  my  strength." 

By  six  o'clock,  the  same  evening,  we  were  enabled 
to  proceed  on  our  journey,  and  by  twelve  o'clock  at 
night  had  reached  the  River  Brule.  Had  sailing  most 
of  the  way,  but  clouds  were  dark  and  threatening- 
thundered  to  the  north  and  sprinkled,  but  the  storm 
went  round  us.     Here  we  found  three  tents.     One, 


MISSIONARY    LIFE.  253 

tlie  Indian  Agent,  on  his  way  to  the  Mississippi,  to 
aid  the  Governor  of  Minnesota  territory  in  locating 
the  new  agency.  One  tent  was  Dr.  Norwoocf  s,  of 
whom  mention  has  before  been  made.  The  other 
tent  belonged  to  Rev.  Messrs.  Hall  and  "Wheeler,  of 
the  American  Board.  They  were  on  an  exploring 
tour,  to  look  up  a  site  for  a  new  mission,  in  view  of 
the  anticipated  removal  of  the  Lake  Superior  Indians. 

Friday  morning  my  veteran  voi/ageur,  Souvra,  called 
us  up  about  three  o'clock.  In  a  few  minutes  we 
parted  with  our  friends,  and  were  on  our  way  for  La 
Pointe.  A  very  hot  day.  Wind  followed  us  most 
of  the  day,  and  bore  us  along,  so  that  we  rowed  but 
little.  We  arrived  at  the  mission  at  La  Pointe  just 
before  dark,  having  coasted  sixty-nine  miles.  We  did 
not  anticipate  reaching  here  before  the  next  day 
noon.  When  I  got  out  of  the  boat  I  staggered  like 
a  drunken  man,  and  was  quite  dizzy,  having  been 
confined  to  our  small  craft  from  the  time  we  break- 
fasted. I  then  noted,  ^'  In  being  so  remarkably  blessed 
I  can  but  own  the  good  hand  of  my  heavenly  Father, 
who  has  made  this  to  me,  thus  far,  one  of  the  most 
prosperous  coasting  trips  I  have  ever  experienced." 

Spent  the  Sabbath  here,  and  was  permitted  to 
preach  twice  to  Rev.  Mr.  Hall's  congregation. 

Two  Indians  had  just  brought  Mr.  Oaks  from  the 
Ontonagon  in  a  bark  canoe.  Through  Mr.  Oaks  I 
engaged  a  passage  with  them  when  they  should 
return.  They  were  to  leave  early  the  following 
Monday  morning;    but,   when   the   time   came,   they 


254  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

bajBled  and  disappointed  me,  and  it  ^yas  quite  late 
before  I  could  stir  them  out  of  their  lodges.  At 
length  they  came  with  the  canoe  to  the  mission  dock. 
I  saw  that  we  were  to  be  burdened  with  company  in 
no  way  desirable.  An  old  dirty  woman  was  in  the 
bow  of  our  canoe.  Another  small  canoe  was  in 
company,  with  an  Indian,  his  wife  and  child.  This 
woman  was  a  daughter  of  the  elderly  woman.  It 
was  useless  to  remonstrate.  I  had  paid  Mr.  0.  for 
my  passage,  and  he  had  settled  with  the  Indians.  I 
was  a  mere  passenger — had  been  detained  too  long 
already — it  was  "neck  or  naught."  So  I  took  my 
place  in  the  center  of  the  canoe,  determined  to  make 
the  best  of  it.  These  Indians  were  related  to  my 
men,  and  were  bound  for  Iron  river.  The  sun  was 
scorching  hot.  It  was  two  o'clock  when  we  arrived 
at  Bad  river,  where  we  took  a  cold  lunch.  Here  we 
found  that  our  company  had  no  sign  of  any  thing 
in  the  provision  line.  Along  this  fine  sand  beach 
our  young  man  towed  the  canoe.  When  it  came  to 
rowing  he  seemed  so  intolerably  lazy  that  he  could 
scarcely  move.  Meanwhile  our  hero  of  the  other 
canoe  was  trying  his  luck  at  fishing  for  trout.  He 
caught  three.  "We  took  supper  at  the  Montreal  river. 
The  Lake  was  calm — scarcely  a  ripple  on  the  sur- 
face. ^\e  traveled  all  night,  and  made  pretty  good 
headway.  I  tried  to  sleep  part  of  the  night,  but  my 
position  was  so  uncomfortable  that  I  could  only  doze 
a  little. 

Tuesday,  11th,  early  in   the   morning,  we  passed 


I 


MISSIONARY   LIFE  255 

Black  river,  x^bout  daybreak  wind  sprung  up  in 
our  favor.  AVe  breakfasted  at  Presque  Isle,  gummed 
our  canoe,  and  ^vere  just  ready  to  start,  -^-hen  a  canoe 
Avitli  Indians  came  ashore.  They  had  been  to  On- 
tonagon, and  were  returning  to  Bad  river,  freighted, 
as  -we  soon  found  out,  with  whisky.  I  did  not  per- 
ceive this  till  I  saw  the  company  into  which  I  had 
fallen  drinking.  They  concealed  the  bottles  under 
their  blankets.  All  I  could  do,  without  using  vio- 
lence, was  to  remonstrate  with  them.  This  had  the 
good  effect,  at  least,  to  keep  my  two  men  from  drink- 
ing much;  and  even  the  man  in  the  other  canoe  made 
out  to  steer  his  canoe  when  not  attached  to  ours. 
Part  of  the  day  we  had  pretty  good  sailing,  and,  as 
his  canoe  was  small  and  he  had  no  sail,  he  must  be 
kept  along  by  being  lashed  to  ours.  But  they  kept 
the  old  woman  in  the  bow  of  our  canoe  drunk  all  day. 
At  times  she  waxed  eloquent,  and  talked  to  her  chil- 
dren; then  she  would  s'mcr  accordin^^  to  heathen  cus- 
tom.  Every  little  while  she  must  have  something 
more  to  drink.  I  pleaded  with  them  not  to  give  it  to 
her;  but  her  son  said,  '^ Kit-e-mah-ge-ze^' — ^'■Poor — a 
poor  old  woman."  I  told  him  that  would  make  her 
poorer  still.  To  this  he  replied,  ^^  Malt-no  f^  that  is, 
never  mind.  Then  his  wife,  who  sat  in  reach  of  her,  in 
the  bow  of  the  other  canoe,  and  had  the  bottle  in  her 
keeping,  would  pour  out  some  in  a  tin-pan — sometimes 
in  a  small  wooden  bowl — and  hand  it  to  her.  Lest 
she  should  not  get  every  drop,  she  would  turn  it  up 
the  second  time.     Then  she  would  say,  "  Me  salt  ewe, 


256  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

me  sail  ewe,  me  sah  eive^'' — ^'That  is  enoiigli,  that  is 
enough,  that  is  enough."  Poor  drunken  heathen, 
she  did  not  realize  but  that  every  "want  was  supplied. 
At  one  time  she  sung  a  kind  of  song  over  and  over 
in  the  following  strain.  I  can  not  give  a  literal 
translation;  it  was  simply  an  expression  of  her  joyful 
emotions  under  the  inspiration  of  the  fire-water. 

"  Me-saJi  neen-ga-to-yaun, 
Me-sah  neen  maJi-mo-yaun." 

I  felt  much  concerned  lest  all  the  Indians  in  the 
company  should  get  drunk,  and  then,  if  we  should 
even  escape  danger  on  the  Lake,  I  would  be  at  their 
mercy  on  the  land.  I  had  no  fear  of  their  injuring 
me  personally;  but  they  might  prevent  me  from  going 
on.  As  we  rounded  the  Porcupine  Mountains,  and 
were  makino-  for  Iron  river,  our  Indian  of  the  other 
canoe  became  very  merry  and  remarkably  garrulous. 
He  kept  up  an  incessant  talking,  and  singing,  and 
drumming  on  an  empty  tin-pan. 

At  one  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  landed  at  Iron  river. 
But  I  was  far  from  feeling  easy.  I  knew  there  was 
whisky  here.  Here  was  the  home  of  my  men  and 
their  •  friends.  They  had  been  out  all  the  previous 
night,  and  would  gladly  have  remained  here  during 
the  nio;ht.  But  I  would  not  hear  to  it  for  a  moment. 
I  insisted  that  we  should  be  oiF  immediately.  They 
promised  me  to  go  soon.  It  was  two  hours  before  I 
could  get  them  started.  Had  we  gone  immediately, 
we  might  have  sailed  with  a  good  wind  to  Ontonagon; 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  057 

but  the  AYind  liad  died  down,  and  now  we  must  row 
and  tow.  But  we  were  now  rid  of  our  troublesome 
company,  and,  what  was  better,  we  had  no  whisky 
aboard.  "Went  a  few  miles  and  camped.  I  have, 
probably,  never  suffered  in  my  feelings  more  in  any 
one  day  of  my  life,  than  during  this  most  trying  time. 
Let  me  be  any  where  else  than  out  at  sea,  in  a  frail 
bark  canoe,  with  drunken  Indians.  This  danger  will 
be  more  apparent  a  little  farther  on.  "We  are  not 
done  yet  with  the  results  of  this  whisky  drinking. 

"We  arrived  at  Ontonagon  early  the  next  morning. 
Called  at  Mr.  Beezer's,  and  what  was  niy  surprise 
to  learn  that  the  wife  of  Mr.  C.  C.  Douglas  was  a 
corpse  in  the  house!  She  was  taken  sick  several 
miles  back  in  the  woods — was  brought  on  a  bier  to 
the  mouth  of  the  river  by  hand.  But  no  help  could 
be  obtained;  the  summons  was  imperative,  and  she 
must  go.  She  left  her  husband  and  an  infant  to  feel 
the  deep  pangs  of  human  sorrow.  I  found  Mr.  L. 
Hanna's  family  here,  and  spent  part  of  the  time  with 
them.  But  for  them  the  place  would  not  have  seemed 
like  home.  Preached  at  night,  on  the  subject  of  the 
cross  of  Christ,  to  a  pretty  good  assembly.  The 
people  listened  attentively. 

On  account  of  the  crowd  of  visiting  friends  at  Mr. 
H.'s  I  was  obliged  to  find  lodging  at  a  public  house. 
But  such  a  night !  Several  rough  fellows  were  drink- 
ing, swearing,  dancing,  and  singing,  all  in  perfect 
tumidt.  My  bedroom  was  in  close  proximity  to  all 
this  disorder  and  wickedness.     In  the  house  adjoining 


258  LIGHTS    AXD    SHADES    OF 

was  the  deceased  vrife  of  Mr.  D.  AVliat  evidences 
here  of  the  most  confirmed  depravity!  And  what 
'but  the  intoxicating  agent  could  render  men  so  lost 
to  every  sense  of  shame,  not  to  say  principle  and 
feeling  of  virtue! 

Thursday,  13th,  I  was  waiting  the  arrival  of  a  boat 
to  go  to  Eagle  river.  Spent  most  of  my  leisure  m 
writing. 

THE    lATAL    CUP. 

The  same  morning  a  small  boat  and  two  Indians 
arrived  fropi  La  Pointe.  They  were  out  on  the  Lake 
the  same  day  on  which  we  came  in  contact  with  the 
Indians  having  whisky.  They  also  fell  in  with  them, 
and,  as  might  be  expected,  were  induced  to  di-ink. 
One  of  their  number,  whose  name  was  Green,  became 
so  intoxicated  that  his  companions  could  not  keep 
him  still  in  the  boat.  He  upset  the  boat  and  was 
drowned.  They  were  about  half  a  mile  from  shore, 
near  Llack  river.  The  two  surviving  men  got  on 
the  boat  and  floated  ashore  with  it  bottom  upward. 
As  we  afterward  learned,  young  Green  had  affection- 
ate parents  and  friends  at  La  Pointe,  whose  hearts 
must  have  been  wrung  with  anguish  by  this  painful 
intellicrence.  Some  one  at  Ontonacron  let  those  In- 
dians  have  this  liquor,  and  took  their  money.  A 
judgment  day  will  tell  the  whole  story. 

About  nine' o'clock  at  night  the  Xapoleon  came 
in,  and  in  two  hours  and  a  half  I  left  the  Ontona- 
gon for  Eagle  river.     The  next  day,  Friday,  arrived 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  259 

before  breakfast.  "Walked  to  the  Cliff  afterward,  and 
found  brother  Day  quite  unwell,  scarcely  able  to  walk 
about.  Things  about  the  Mine  appeared  to  be  in 
rather  a  confused  state.  Several  persons  had  left, 
and  some  were  about  leaving.  Spent  most  of  the 
afternoon  at  the  North  American.  Accompanied  !Mr. 
Kelsey  to  witness  the  removal  of  the  remains  of  his 
recently-deceased  wife.  They  were  now  exhumed 
and  sent  below  on  the  Independence. 

Saturday  made  a  few  visits — spent  the  day  at  the 
Cliff,  and  preached  in  the  evening.  Sabbath  preached 
and  administered  the  sacrament  in  the  iiew  chapel 
built  by  the  Company.  Had  a  class  meeting  in  the 
afternoon,  and  a  missionary  meeting  at  night.  The 
meetings  were  well  attended,  and  we  trust  profitable. 
Though  things  here  looked  unpromising,  there  was 
the  o;erm  of  somethins;  f2:ood  to  come.  Some  of  our 
best  members  had  left. 

On  Saturday  two  men  arrived  from  Kewawenon. 
This  was  providential  for  me.  I  prevailed  on  them 
to  wait  and  accompan}^  me,  as  they  had  a  boat  at 
the  head  of  Torc"h  Jjake.  Monday  morning  we  left, 
and  walked  sixteen  miles  to  Torch  Lake.  The  sun 
shone  very  hot,  and  the  musketoes  were  very  annoy- 
ing. "We  had  reached  the  Lake  by  half-past  one 
o'clock,  P.  M.,  much  fatigued.  The  boat  had  lain 
on  the  dry  sand  beach,  and  leaked  badly  when  put 
into  the  water.  It  kept  me  bailing  cansiderable  of 
the  time.  About  sundown  we  reached  the  mouth 
of    Portage   river;    stopped   at   Mr.  Sheldon's    long 


2G0  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

enough  to  eat  a  bowl  of  bread  and  milk — a  great 
treat,  and  tlie  most  I  had  eaten  for  the  day.  Again 
we  were  in  the  boat  making  our  w^ay  for  the  Meth- 
odist mission.  It  was  two  o'clock  at  night  before 
w^e  arrived.  Found  all  as  well  as  could  be  expected, 
but  the  deeply-devoted  and  amiable  sister  Barnum 
was  still  wasting  away  with  lingering  consumption. 
Brother  Crane  had  buried  his  youthful  companion 
soon  after  his  arrival  at  the  mission.  Our  mission- 
aries were  called  to  drain  the  cup  of  sorrow,  but  a 
good  work  had  been  going  on  in  the  Church,  and 
thus  was  their  cup  again  filled  with  gladness. 

Wednesday,  19th,  we  met  at  11  o'clock,  A.  M.,  in 
our  new  church,,  which  had  recently  been  comioleted. 
The  brethren  had  delayed  occupying  it  till  my  arrival. 
We  now  had  the  pleasure  of  dedicating  it  to  the 
worship  of  the  living  God.  It  was  a  refreshing  time 
to  our  souls.  Our  new  house  was  neat,  commodious, 
for  the  place,  and  an  honor  to  our  mission.  It  was 
worth  about  §550. 

At  three  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  met  the  Indians  to 
consult  about  their  temporal  matters.  The  principal 
topic  was  in  relation  to  turning  over  to  them  the 
lands  bought  by  the  Missionary  Society.  This  I  was 
authorized  to  do  if  it  should  be  thought  best.  But 
there  were  circumstances  that  served  to  render  it 
unadvisable  to  do  so  at  this  time.  I  advised  them 
to  let  the  Missionary  Society  still  retain  the  title, 
as  the  safest  course  for  them  for  the  present — told 
them   that  it  would  make  no  difference   as  to  then' 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  261 

occupying  or  using  tlicm.  To  this  tliey  all  readily 
agreed.     John  Southwind  said: 

"  I  am  getting  old  and  may  die  suddenly,  and  my 
son  is  young,  and  it  may  be,  that,  if  my  land  was  in 
my  own  hands,  it  might  be  lost.  I  am  thankful  for 
v>-hat  the  Missionary  Society  has  done  for  us  in 
purchasing  the  land." 

After  several  had  spoken  briefly,  David  King,  the 
chief,  said,  in  substance : 

^'I  wish  to  say  a  few  words.  I  have  very  little 
mind,  and  know  but  little.  The  Indians  are  just  like 
little  children ;  they  know  but  little  till  they  are  in- 
structed. I  may  be  told  what  is  for  my  good,  and 
may  see  differently.  It  may  be  after  the  Indians  are 
well  trained  they  will  understand  better.  If  the  In- 
dians only  knew  what  you  have  done  for  them,  they 
would  be  very  thankful.  The  missionaries  came 
amons:  us  when  we  were  heathens,  and  have  been 
teaching  us  how  to  live.  And  now  we  are  just  be- 
ginning to  live.  But  the  Indians  are  very  poor.  To 
give  you  an  example — if  a  little  child  cries  and  is 
hungry,  we  give  it  something  to  eat.  Now,  the  good 
people,  the  Missionary  Society,  have  bought  us  some 
land,  which  they  allow  us  to  keep  and  replace  the 
money  when  wq  get  able.  We  have  not  the  money 
to  do  this  now,  but  we  hope  the  time  will  come  when 
Vi'e  can  replace  it  all.  I  am  very  thankful  for  what 
has  been  done  for  us." 

Not  a  word  of  fault  or  complaint  was  uttered  about 
ihe  missionaries,  or  any  thing  else,  save  a  little  mis- 


262  LIGHTS   AXD    SHADES   OF 

understanding  bet^'een  them  and  two  persons  who 
had  married  into  the  band,  and  wanted  to  secure 
claims  among  them. 

At  seven  o'clock,  P.  M.,  wo  met  again  for  religious 
worship.  The  people  were  out  as  if  it  had  -been  the 
Sabbath.  I  preached  to  them  with  much  freedom. 
The  whole  congregation  praised  God  aloud  in  singing, 
and  yet  there  did  not  seem  to  be  a  discordant  note. 
Several  were  deeply  affected  during  the  meeting. 

Thursday  morning  we  had  love-feast  and  the  sacra- 
ment of  the  Lord's  supper.  It  was  a  most  melting 
and  precious  time,  ^\e  closed  by  singing  a  parting 
hymn,  when  the  people  all  passed  before  the  altar, 
and  shook  hands  with  the  missionaries,  and  with  each 
other.  Seldom  have  I  witnessed  a  more  affecting 
scene. 

Afternoon  parted  with  the  brethren  and  friends  at 
K.,  never  expecting  to  see  them  all  again  in  this 
world.  Accompanied  by  brother  R.  C.  Crane  and 
"VYilliam  Bass,  crossed  over  to  the  mouth  of  the  Port- 
age river.  We  were  kindly  entertained  by  the  family 
of  Mr.  Sheldon.  The  musketoes  were'  almost  insuf- 
ferable. Friday  we  reached  the  head  of  Torch  Lake 
about  noon,  and,  after  a  fatiguing  walk  over  the  trail, 
and  a  well-fought  battle  with  our  mortal  insect  ene- 
mies, we  were  at  the  Cliff  Mine,  at  six  o'clock,  P.  M. 
Saturday  went  to  the  Lake  and  dined  with  Mr. 
Write's  family.  Afternoon,  via  Eagle  Harbor,  walked 
to  the  North-West  Mine,  distant  from  the  Cliff  seven- 
teen miles.     Found  here  my  old  friend  D.  D.  Brock- 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  263 

■^ay  and  family,  from  Copper  Harbor.  Mr.  V>.  ^\as 
now  Agent  of  the  Mine.  Here  spent  the  Sabbath, 
and  preached  twice  to  a  very  respectable  congrega- 
tion. In  the  evening  returned  to  Eagle  Harbor,  about 
five  miles,  and  stopped  for  the  night  at  Mr.  Bodon's. 
Before  we  were  up,  Monday  morning,  the  Napoleon 
came  into  the  Harbor,  on  her  way  to  the  Saut.  I 
was  thankful  to  get  aboard,  with  my  face  once  more 
turned  tovrard  home.  On  our  way  down  we  touched 
at  Carp  river — now  Marquette — ran  into  Grand  Isl- 
and Harbor  to  wood,  and  on  Wednesday,  the  26th 
June,  before  twelve  o'clock,  was  permitted,  through 
much  mercy,  to  meet  my  family  and  find   all  well. 


22 


264  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 

BlllEF   STATEMENT  OP   THE   CONDITION  OF  THE 

MISSIONS   IN   THE    D  IS  TEIC  T  — RE  MINIS - 

CENCES  PLEASING  AND   SAD. 

The  Indian  Mission  district  enjoyed  a  year  of 
prosperity  after  deducting  all  our  losses  from  vari- 
ous causes  beyond  tlie  control  of  the  missionaries. 
At  the  extreme  posts  of  Fond  du  Lac  and  Sandy 
Lake,  we  Lad  never  been  able  to  count  much  on  mem- 
bers. Fond  du  Lac  returned  six  Indian  members, 
four  less  than  at  the  previous  conference.  Sandy 
Lake  numbered,  the  year  before,  sixteen,  now  re- 
turned but  five — nine  out  of  the  sixteen  were  on  trial. 
To  any  one  acquainted  with  those  stations  and  the 
adverse  influences  which  had  been  at  work,  these 
fluctuations  will  not  appear  surprising. 

At  Kewawenon  a  good  revival  had  been  in  prog- 
ress during  the  winter.  Fifteen,  as  a  result,  were 
added  to  the  society;  but  by  deaths,  removals,  and 
the  necessary  exercise  of  Discipline,  the  number  re- 
turned to  conference  was  fifty-six,  the  same  as  the 
year  before. 

It  was  intended  that  the  brethren  at  Kewawenon 
should  visit  the  miners  in  the  vicinity  of  Ontonagon, 
and  also  at  Carp  river.     In  the  extreme  ill  health  of 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  265 

sister  Barnum,  tins  part  of  the  work,  for  the  winter 
months,  was  committed  to  brother  Crane.  He  trav 
eled  on  foot  during  the  winter  nearly  seven  hundred 
miles;  visited  the  Ontonagon  twice,  and  spent  some 
time  at  the  various  locations ;  went  once  to  the  Cliff 
Mine  and  twice  to  Carp  river.  At  his  first  visit  to 
this  last  place,  things  looked  very  dark  and  unpromis- 
ing. He  received  three  persons  into  society  on  trial, 
as  a  result  of  his  efforts.  The  next  time  a  most  gra- 
cious work  broke  out,  resulting  in  the  happy  conver- 
sion of  about  twenty-five  or  more,  and  the  formation 
of  a  flourishing  class.  At  the  time  brother  C.  wrote 
me  a  detailed  account  of  his  efforts  and  the  success 
attending  them.  I  give  here  an  extract  or  two  as 
evincing  the  character  of  this  work,  and  also  the 
deep  sorrows  of  the  missionary,  to  wliich  allusion 
has  been  made  before : 

''  0  what  a  work  the  Lord,  has  wrought  here  1  This 
wilderness,  brother,  doth  bloom.  Our  class  now  num- 
bers twenty-three,  and  the  most  of  them  are  bold  to 
tell  what  a  dear  Savior  they  have  found.  0,  they  are 
happy  in  God's  pardoning  love;  and  others  are  seek- 
ing the  Savior !  Very  different  the  atmosphere  now 
to  what  it  was  four  weeks  ago.  Difficulties  have  been 
settled  that  could  not  have  been  otherwise. 

"You  see,  brother,  from  what  I  have  written,  that 
the  Lord 'is  with  us.  And,  indeed,  if  he  were  not  my 
stay  and  staff,  0,  how  could  I  endure  the  deep,  deep, 
heart-rending  afflictions  through  which  I  have  been 
called  to  pass,  in  being  bereft  of  my  dear  wife,  who 


266  LICxHTS   AND    SHADES    OF 

was  permitted  to  stay  -witli  me  so  short  a  time !  0 
my  brother,  my  feelings  are  indescribable !  I  could 
not  tell  them  were  I  to  attempt.  But  you  appreciate 
them  in  a  measure,  and  I  have  your  prayers  and 
sympathy.  My  dear  Minerva  was  with  me  only  three 
weeks  after  we  reached  L' Arise;  then  the  Savior 
called  her.  She  bade  me  farewell,  and  the  angels 
quickly  flew  with  her  thrice  happy  spirit  to  a  happier 
and  more  congenial  clime.  I  think  I  can  see  in  the 
removal  of  my  wife  the  workings  of  my  heavenly 
Father's  hand.  Perhaps  it  was  the  only  means  of 
the  salvation  of  many  souls  at  L'Aiise,  and,  for  aught 
I  know,  at  this  place  too.  My  Lord  is  a  God  of 
providence,  and  I  have  always  endeavored  to  trust 
him  as  such." 

For  the  reader  to  appreciate  those  labors  and  suf- 
ferings, he  must  follow  the  missionary  through  a 
wintery  wilderness,  and  for  five  or  six  successive 
nights  camp  down  with  him  in  his  lone  and  com- 
fortless resting-place.  In  years  yet  to  come  those 
primitive  toils  to  plant  the  Gospel  on  that  wild  and 
desolate  shore  will  be  duly  appreciated.  The  time 
draweth  nigh. 

At  Eagle  river  but  twelve  members  were  returned — 
two  less  than  the  previous  year,  owing  to  removals. 
The  mining  population  was  very  floating. 

At  the  Saut  Ste.  Marie  mission,  with  all  the  disad- 
vantages arising  from  the  removal  of  the  Indians  to 
Naomikong,  and  other  causes,  the  number  returned  was 
fifty-six,  an  increase  of  four  members.     The  Minutes 


MISSIONARY    LIFE.  267 

show  for  the  district  a  decrease  in  the  Indian  mem- 
bership of  eleven,  and  an  increase  in  the  ^vhite  mem- 
bership of  twentj-six. 

The  district  contributed,  during  the  year,  §148.85 
for  the  missionary  cause — an  average  of  more  than 
ninety-one  cents  per  member,  counting  the  Indians. 
But  it  must  be  remembered  that  they  were  not  called 
on  for  any  of  this.  Divided  among  forty-eight  pay- 
ing members,  it  averages  §3.10  each.  Besides  the 
district  raised  §31.80  for  Sunday  schools.  It  num- 
bered 5  Sunday  schools,  141  scholars,  490  volumes 
in  library,  2  Bible  classes — took  12  Sunday  School 
Advocates.  These  facts  go  to  show  a  healthy  state 
of  our  societies,  and  that  the  missionaries  endeav- 
ored to  care  for  all  the  interests  of  religion  and 
Methodism. 

'''Be  not  forgetful  to  entertain  strangers,  for  thereby 
some  have  entertained  angels  unaivares.''  While  liv- 
ing on  this  great  thoroughfare  we  often  realized  what 
it  meant  to  comply  with  the  apostle's  precept,  whether 
we  were  always  so  favored  as  to  find  our  guests  angels 
or  not.  In  one  instance  we  had  a  striking  illustra- 
tion of  the  text  at  the  head  of  this.  Brother  John 
Peterson,  of  Xinth  and  Arch  streets,  Philadelphia, 
on  his  way  to  visit  Lake  Superior,  had  arrived  at 
the  Saut,  and  put  up  at  a  publia  house.  He  had 
invited  a  special  friend,  an  experienced  Methodist 
minister  of  the  same  city,  Rev.  A.  Atwood,  to  accom- 
pany him  at  his  expense.  Mr.  Atwood  had  left  home 
in  poor  health,  and  crossing  the  lakes  had  aggravated 


268  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

liis  complaint,  wliicli  he  feared,  if  not  soon  cliecked, 
would  terminate  in  cliolera.  We  opened  our  house, 
and  took  him  in,  and  would  gladly  have  kept  brother 
Peterson  also,  but  he  refused  our  invitation.  He  left 
brother  Atwood  in  our  care,  and  proceeded  to  Lake 
Superior.  We  did  the  best  we  could  with  such  accom- 
modations as  our  little  domicile  could  furnish — homely 
at  best.  Brother  Atwood  could  hardly  find  terms 
sufficiently  expressive  of  his  gratitude;  thought  he 
should  have  died  had  he  been  left  at  the  tavern.  The 
simple  means  used  were  blessed,  and  he  began  grad- 
ually to  improve.  After  an  absence  of  about  a  week 
brother  Peterson  returned,  and  was  much  rejoiced  at 
the  evident  improvement  of  his  friend  and  companion. 
Before  taking  leave  of  the  Saut  he  sent  us  ten  dollars 
by  the  hand  of  brother  AtAvood.  After  this  he  came 
and  took  tea  with  us.  While  seated  in  the  parlor  he 
took  out  some  loose  bills  from  his  pocket,  and  re- 
marked, ^' I  think  I  have  a  little  more  loose  change 
than  I  shall  need  for  traveling  expenses,"  and  passed 
them  over  to  me,  requesting  me  to  accept  them.  On 
opening  them  I  found  them  to  amount  to  tweniy-five 
dollars.  Such  generosity  was  embarrassing;  but  it 
was  shown  with  such  earnest  good  will  as  seemed  to 
say  that  it  must  be  so.  He  stepped  into  the  dining- 
room,  and,  on  bidding  my  wife  farewell,  left  a  five 
dollar  gold  piece  in  her  hand.  He  had  previously 
presented  me  with  a  very  handsome  pocket  map  of 
the  United  States.  He  gave  Carrie  a  gold  dolhir 
and  little  Henry  a  half  dollar.     So  far  as  our  expe- 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  9^9 

rience  is  concerned,  this  instance  of  generosity  is 
unique.  Our  liberal  donor  afforded  us  help  in  a  time 
of  need.  If  it  be  more  blessed  to  give  than  to 
receive,  he  received  the  greater  blessing.  Our  most 
fervent  prayer  was  that  God  vrould  abundantly  reward 
the  cheerful  giver.  Should  this  incident  come  under 
the  notice  of  those  to  whom  it  relates,  they  will  please 
pardon  the  liberty  I  have  taken  with  their  names. 

August  16th  found  me  on  board  the  steamer  Lon- 
don, en  route  to  attend  the  annual  conference.  We 
had  a  rough  time  in  crossing  Lake  Huron.  We  lay 
at  anchor  most  of  the  day,  Sunday,  under  an  island 
in  the  vicinity  of  Thunder  Bay.  The  Sabbath  passed 
away  quietly.  I  preached  once  to  those  aboard,  and 
Rev.  Peter  Jacobs,  the  Indian  preacher,  who  had 
spent  the  last  thirteen  years  at  Hudson's  Bay,  and 
was  just  returning  to  Canada,  closed  the  services 
with  a  very  interesting  account  of  his  conversion, 
life,  and  labors. 

■We  arrived  at  Detroit  on  Monday,  about  nine 
o'clock  at  night.  Tuesday  we  spent  in  attending  to 
business  in  the  city.  The  same  evening  we  took 
boat  for  Sandusky  City,  Ohio;  thence  by  railroad 
went  to  Tiffin  City,  and  thence  to  visit  an  aged 
mother  in  Crawford  county,  now  pressed  down  with 
a  weight  of  infirmities.  Here  I  preached  several 
times,  and  met  with  many  old  friends  and  acquaint- 
ances. I  preached  once  in  the  elegant  new  church 
in  Tiffin  City,  which  had  supplanted  the  old  brick, 
in  which  some  of  my  most  notable  boyhood   hours 


270  LIGHTS  AND    SHADES   OF 

liad  been  spent.  Every  tiling  liere  liad  clmnged. 
Twenty-one  years  had  passed  and  gone  since  mother, 
Avith  lier  six  children,  had  been  ferried  across  the 
Sandusky  river  in  a  log  canoe,  to  take  up  their  resi- 
dence in  Tiffin,  after  the  recent  death  of  a  dear 
father,  which  had  occurred  in  Licking  county.  Then 
Tiffin  was  a  small  county  town,  much  of  it  situated 
among  the  stumps  and  logs,  and  much  of  the  surround- 
in  o>  country  a  dense  wilderness ;  now  a  city — a  teeming 
population,  and  all  the  evidences  of  thrift  and  prog- 
ress. But  many  of  the  old  familiar  faces  were  not  to 
Ue  seen.  A  brother  H.,  under  whose  roof  I  had  spent 
more  than  five  years,  was  of  that  number.  Death 
had  aimed  at  them  his  unerring  darts,  and  they  had 
fallen.  I  should  exceed  the  limit  within  which  these 
stray  leaves  should  fall,  if  I  were  to  pen  here  the 
vivid  boyhood  scenes  that  rushed  before  me,  and  were 
uneffaceably  daguerreotyped  upon  my  mind.  Thus 
much  by  the  way. 

From  Tiffin  I  proceeded  to  Adrian,  Michigan,  and 
spent  a  Sabbath  with  old  friends  there;  thence  re- 
paired to  Albion,  the  seat  of  the  conference,  which 
commenced  the  next  Wednesday,  September  5th,  and 
closed  on  the  10th.  The  session  was  one  of  much 
interest  to  me,  as  such  seasons  have  almost  invari- 
ably been. 

From  the  seat  of  the  conference  we  went  to  De- 
troit, where  we  procured  our  winter  supplies  for  the 
missions,  and  were  again  accompanied  by  several  of 
the  missionaries  on  our  way  to  the  Saut. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  271 

September  20th  landed  on  M'Kniglit's  wharf,  at 
the  Saut,  and  was  instantly  hailed  by  Carrie,  whose 
first  expression  was  that  her  little  brother  was  very 
gick.  This  was  to  me  the  first  announcement,  and 
found  its  way  like  an  arrow  to  my  heart.  I  was 
Boon  by  his  couch — but  what  a  change!  The  evi- 
dences were  too  apparent  to  be  mistaken — death  was 
doing  his  mysterious  work.  About  the  time  of  my 
arrival  he  became  unconscious ;  he  did  not  know  me. 
Four  days  and  nights  of  nearly  sleepless  anxiety 
had  passed,  and  some  heavenly  messenger  came  and 
kissed  away  his  infant  breath,  and  on  golden  pinions 
bore  his  unsinning  spirit  up  to  the  bosom  of  its  God. 
Could  it  be  that  our  sweet  Henry  had  been  snatched 
so  suddenly  away?  We  could  hardly  realize  it,  and 
yet  we  knew  it  was  a  stern  reality.  We  had  lost 
friends  before — the  dearest  friends — but  no  more 
tender  cords  had  ever  been  entwined  about  our  hearts 
than  those  which  bound  us  to  this  dear  boy.  Carrie's 
heart  was  nearly  broken,  and  her  eyes  were  turned 
into  channels  of  grief  and  sorrow.  But  while  the 
stroke  fell  so  heavily  upon  us,  we  could  but  reahze 
that  the  chastening  rod  was  in  a  Father's  hand.  Our 
soul  submissively  responded,  "The  Lord  gave,  and 
the  Lord  hath  taken  away,  and  blessed  be  the  name 
of  the  Lord." 

During  those  trying  hours  we  had  with  us  brother 

and  sister  Barnum   and   brother   Stacey,  bound  for 

Kewawenon ;  and  brother  and  sister  Benson,  on  their 

way  to  the  Eagle  River  mission.     Brother  Barnum 

23 


272  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

preached  tlie  funeral,  and  Trrote  a  note  addressed  to 
Dr.  Durbin,  which  was  published  in  the  Missionary 
Advocate.  The  following  is  an  extract,  with  the 
editor's — Dr.  Durbin's,  I  suppose — note  of  kind  sjm- 
athj  with  us  in  our  affliction: 

"^Te  hioiv  not  tvTiat  shall  he  on  tlie  morrow  J — 
Brother  Pitezel  very  unexpectedly  found  his  little 
son,  an  interesting  child,  a  little  less  than  two  years 
old,  sick.  Disease,  congestion  of  the  brain.  All 
efforts  of  physicians,  and  fond  parents,  and  kind 
friends  proved  unavailing;  and  on  the  24th,  at  half- 
past  eight  o'clock,  P.  M.,  he  left  us,  and  took  his 
exit  to  the  world  of  spirits.  The  parents  feel  their 
affliction  deeply,  as  little  Henry  Eugene  was  an  only 
son;  but  they  have  grace  in  their  affliction  to  say, 
'The  Lord  gave,  and  the  Lord  hath  taken  away,  and 
blessed  be  the  name  of  the  Lord.'^ 

"Brother  Steele  and  family  have  just  arrived. 
"Yours,  in  the  Gospel, 

"Nelsox  Barxum. 

*"'We  are  afflicted  ■with  our  dear  brother  Pitezel,  Laving  trav- 
eled the  same  road  four  different  times.  ls"ext  to  the  procioug 
word  of  God,  we  commend  to  him  and  his  bereaved  companion 
the  perusal  of  the  637th  and  639th  hymns  in  our  K'ew  Collection. — 
Editor." 

Brother  Salmon  Steele,  who  had  just  arrived  with 
his  family,  had  been  passing  through  the  furnace  of 
affliction.  Death  had  made  a  sure  aim  at  one  of  hia 
own  dear  friends.     Himself  and  several  of  his  family 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  273 

looked  like  walking  shadows  when  they  landed.  They 
had  come  to  take  charge  of  the  station  at  Naomi- 
kong,  and  were  with  us  about  a  week  before  going 
to  their  new  home.  In  the  midst  of  our  afflictions 
so  many  active  duties  constantly  pressed  upon  us, 
that  we  had  little  time  to  indulge  in  gloomy  appre- 
hensions, had  we  even  been  tempted  to  do  so.  I 
made  this  note  on  the  1st  of  November: 

'•For  two  months  I  have  made  no  record  in  my 
journal.  They  have  been  eventful  months,  but  filled 
with  active  duties.  To-day  I  preached  the  funeral 
of  a  little  boy — Mr.  Godfrey's — that  died  with  scrof- 
ula. Thus  are  our  blooming  prospects  of  life  cut 
ofi  by  death." 


274  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

SAUT    DE    STE.    MAEIE     JIISSION  —  PASSINCJ 
EVENTS. 

After  the  missionaries  had  left  us  for  their  ap- 
propriate fields  we  found,  as  usual,  much  to  do  pre- 
paratory to  the  approaching  winter. 

Besides  the  necessary  business  and  care  connected 
with  a  general  oversight  of  the  missions  in  the  dis- 
trict, the  mission  farm  at  Little  Eapids  required  nc 
small  attention.  Up  to  this  time  one  of  the  mission 
families  lived  there.  The  place  was  now  leased,  and 
thus  lessened  very  much  our  care  and  perplexity. 

On  the  22d  of  November  I  went  to  Naomikong 
to  hold  our  first  quarterly  meeting.  The  ground  was 
covered  with  snow.  It  was  cold  and  wintery,  but  we 
were  favored  with  a  good  wind  to  sail,  and  arrived 
before  night.  Pound  brother  Steele  on  the  school- 
house,  in  true  mason-like  style,  topping  out  the  chim- 
ney. He  and  his  family  had  recovered  their  health, 
and  were  in  '' labors  more  abundant."  We  had  a  good 
quarterly  meeting,  but  nothing  extraordinary.  I  was 
chained  here  till  Thursday  afternoon  following,  by 
contrary  wind.  The  snow  was  several  inches  deep, 
and  I  concluded  that  I  should  have  to  walk  home — ■ 
a  hard  undertaking  at  that  season.     I  took  leave  of 


MISSrO'N'ARY  LIFE.  275 

the  mission  and  walked  to  the  mill,  some  eight  miles, 
hj  the  coast.  Part  of  the  way  I  walked  in  snow 
water,  by  which  means  I  took  a  severe  cold,  and  it 
laid  the  foundation  of  a  pretty  serious  illness  soon 
afterward.  At  the  saw-mill  we  remained  all  night. 
Friday  morning  the  wind  sprung  up  in  our  f^ivor. 
Our  boat  was  sent  to  us  from  Naomikong,  as  I  had 
ordered  if  the  wind  should  become  favorable,  and 
before  nio-ht  we  had  reached  home. 

o 

IMPROVEMENTS. 

At  jSTaomikong  we  had  purchased  rising  of  sixty 
acres  of  land  for  the  mission.  The  Indians  had 
bought  all  around  us,  and  were  building  considerably. 
We  had  built  since  conference  a  comfortable  school- 
house,  and  made  an  addition  to  the  mission-house. 
Had  also  fitt£d  up  a  comfortable  dwelling  for  the 
interpreter.  The  school  was  opened  on  the  27th 
of  November,  numbering  twenty-four  Indian  children, 
most  of  whom  could  read  in  the  Testament;  nine 
were  writing,  five  studying  arithmetic,  and  two  geog- 
raphy. 

'^  Religious  Prospects. — Brother  Steele  says,  ^Our 
religious  prospects  are  of  decided  improvement.' 
i\Ieetings  of  all  kinds  well  attended,  and  interesting. 
Brother  Marksman  says,  in  a  letter  received  the  same 
time,  Uhe  Lord  is  now  troubling  the  careless  and 
hard-hearted  sinners  here.  Last  evening  after  the 
exhortation  of  brother  Isaac,  brother  Steele  told  me 
that  I  might  speak  also,  and  immediately  I  lifted  my 


276  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

cries  to  God  in  prayer:  '0  Lord,  thou  hast  permitted 
thy  poor  servant  to  see  sinners  converted  to  thee  in 
former  times!  0  let  us  see  sinners  coming  to  thee 
this  evening!'  In  the  name  of  God  I  got  up  and 
exhorted  sinners  to  come  to  Jesus  and  be  saved. 
Four  persons  came  forward  to  the  mourner's  bench. 
We  labored  till  nearly  ten"  o'clock — had  a  most  ex- 
cellent meeting.  They  all  prayed  till  the  tears  rolled 
down  their  cheeks;  every  soul  in  the  house  was  in 
prayer.  One  of  brother  Steele's  boys  prayed  with 
all  his  might."     (Missionary  Report.) 

The  state  of  religion  was  very  encouraging  most 
of  the  winter.  Early  in  March  I  visited  Naomikong 
again.  It  was  then  fine  going  on  the  ice.  Went  in 
a  two-horse  sled,  accompanied  by  my  w^ife  and  daugh- 
ter. This  jaunt  was  pleasantly  executed,  as  it  took 
us  only  one  day  each  vfay,  and  is  the  more  worthy 
of  note  as  it  was  very  seldom  that  we  could  travel 
so  comfortably.  We  had  a  good  meeting  w^ith  the 
missionaries  and  the  Indians  that  were  at  home — sev- 
eral were  off  hunting.  The  conveniences  for  boarding 
native  children  w^ere  limited  at  our  new  station.  StiU 
four  or  five  children  were  supported  under  the  mission 
roof.  One  of  the  greatest  disadvantages  here  was 
the  isolated  position  of  our  missionaries,  and  the 
difficulty  of  transporting  supplies  from  the  Saut 
mostly  in  small  boats.  It  required  no  small  degree 
of  self-sacrifice  to  live  in  so  secluded  a  spot,  shut  out 
from  the  world  mostly,  and  deprived  of  the  endear- 
ments of  such  society  as  the  missionaries  had   been 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  277 

wont  to  gather  around  them.  Still  this  was  a  more 
desirable  residence  than  several  of  the  remoter  sta- 
tions. 

Soon  after  the  visit  to  jSTaomikong  mentioned  above, 
my  health  was,  for  a  time,  much  impaired  by  that 
most  painful  and  debilitating  disease — piles.  At  no 
time  during  my  connection  with  the  missions  was  I 
so  completely  prostrated.  But  I  soon  obtained  relief, 
and  gradually  recovered  my  strength  through  the 
good  providence  of  God. 

During  this  winter  I  added  to  my  other  duties  the 
charge  of  a  school.  I  did  this  in  compliance  vrith 
an  urgent  request  of  some  of  the  leading  citizens, 
who  had  failed  to  secure  the  services  of  a  teacher 
from  beiow  before  the  close  of  navigation  prevented 
them. 

We  still  continued  preaching  at  the  village,  with 
variable  signs  of  prosperity.  During  most  of  the 
winter  and  spring  we  had  excellent  congregations, 
and  often  deep  and  serious  attention  to  the  v>-ord 
preached.  We  were  visited  by  brother  Steele  occa- 
sionally, vrho  preached  several  very  excellent  sermons 
to  the  people.  Our  sacramental  seasons  were  gen- 
erally seasons  of  heart-felt  interest.  The  hearts  of 
the  few,  representatives  of  several  different  Churches, 
were  blended  as  the  members  of  a  common  family. 
]kit  there  were  times  when  the  f^eneral  nc;]clect  of 
divine  things  led  me  almost  to  adopt  the  words  of 
the  sorrowing  Psalmist:  "Woe  is  me  that  I  sojourn 
in  Mescch,  and  dwell  in  the  tents  of  Kcdar." 


278  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 


T  E  M  P  E  E  A  X  C  E  . 


In  a  place  like  this  any  thing  that  could  conduce 
to  roll  back  the  tide  of  intemperance,  and  avert  its 
untold  evils,  was  to  be  hailed  as  the  harbinger  of 
good.  In  the  fall  of  1849  the  Sons  of  Temperance 
organized  a  Division — "Algic  Chippeway  Division, 
Iso.  107.''  This  Division  soon  increased  in  num- 
bers, and  was  steadily  gaining  in  the  confidence  of 
the  people.  Several  persons,  who  had  been  far  gone 
in  intemperance,  were  by  this  means  reclaimed.  In 
the  spring  of  1850  I  entered  heartily  into  this  re- 
form, and  lectured  soon  after  to  very  crowded  aud- 
iences. The  meetings  in  the  hall  were  very  orderly 
and  business-like  seasons,  exerting  a  most  wnolesome 
influence  over  several  of  the  soldiers,  who  were  mem- 
bers, and  were  thus  kept  away  from  drinking  and 
gambling  saloons.  The  public  lectures  were  invaria- 
bly well  attended,  and  many  home-darts  were  there 
thrown,  not  at  random,  among  the  mixed  multitude. 
It  is  with  pleasure  that  I  call  to  mind  my  association 
with  this  Division  of  the  Sons  of  Temperance.  Its 
members  are  now  scattered;  some  have  gone  to  their 
long  home.  There  are  several  that  I  have  hope  of 
meeting  on  a  better  shore,  which  the  fell  destroyer, 
intemperance,  will  never  approach. 

SICKXESS   AND    DEATH  AMONG   THE   INHABITANTS, 

In  the   spring  we  had  a  number  of  very  sudden 
deaths.     There  seemed  to  be   something  mysteriou.-^. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  279 

in  the  manner  of  several  of  these  deaths.  Persons 
-would  be  taken  sick,  but  not  considered  dangerous, 
and  yet  the  next  word  would,  perhaps,  be  that  they 
were  no  more.  These  cases  did  not  all  originate  in 
the  same  disease,  evidently,  though  there  was  pre- 
vailing at  the  time  a  kind  of  influenza,  which  was, 
no  doubt,  the  exciting  cause  in  most  cases.  Mj^self 
and  family  were  attacked,  and  I  did  not  fully  recover 
till  I  reached  Sandy  Lake  the  following  summer. 
There  was  some  interest  attached  to  some  of  these 
occurrences,  as  noted  in  my  journal,  a  brief  mention 
of  which  may  not  be  amiss.  They  were  interwoven 
with  our  missionary  life.  The  following  was  penned 
on  the  23d  of  March: 

"  This  afternoon  I  preached  a  funeral  discourse 
on  occasion  of  the  sudden  death  of  one  of  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Division  of  the  Sons  of  Temperance. 
The  members  were  all  in  attendance,  and  such  a 
crowd  flocked  out  as  I  have  never  seen  in  this  place 
to  a  Protestant  meeting.  The  house  was  filled,  and 
the ,  do^'s  were  crov/ded  with  persons  standing,  and 
a  nurol^er  went  away  that  could  not  be  accommodated. 
I  was  blessed  with  more  than  usual  freedom  in  speak- 
ing from  2  Samuel  xiv,  14.  There  was  fixed  atten- 
tion, and  many  wept  under  the  word  preached. 

"Mr.  D.  had  lived  in  sin,  and  died,  it  was  to  be 
feared,  without  hope  in  Christ.  He  was  taken  last 
Thursday  evening  and  died  yesterday — Saturday — 
morning,  about  four  o'clock.  I  knew  nothing  of  his 
being  sick  till  requested  to  attend  his  funeral.     After 


280  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

he  was  taken  sick  liis  wife  asked  him  if  she  should 
send  for  me  to  come  and  talk  with  him.  He  replied, 
that  'people  would  tliink  it  a  luJiim.'  She  told  me 
that  these  were  the  last  words  he  uttered.  How  ter- 
rible for  death  to  come  and  find  any  one  thus  un- 
prepared !  I  endeavored  faithfully  to  warn  the  people 
of  the  absolute  necessity  of  a  preparation  for  death." 

On  the  20th  of  April  another  of  the  members 
of  the  Division  died,  a  Mr.  ^Y.  He  had  been  one 
of  the  best  mechanics  that  ever  had  been  at  the  Saut. 
But  he  was  enticed  and  led  away  by  strong  drink, 
till  he  brought  upon  himself  that  horrible  disease 
of  mania  a  potu.  At  that  time  he  could  scarcely 
have  drawn  a  sober  breath.  By  this  destructive 
poison  his  constitution  became  shattered,  and  he  was 
dragging  out  a  living  death.  He  had,  some  time 
before,  united  with  the  Sons,  and  totally  abandoned 
his  cups.  As  a  result  an  entu-e  change  came  over 
him  for  the  better. 

I  visited  him  daily  for  several  days,  conversed  vrith 
him  about  his  spiritual  state,  gave  him  a  Bible  and 
some  tracts,  read  the  holy  Scriptures  and  prayed  with 
him.  He  told  me,  on  Thursday  before  his  death,  that 
*'he  was  resolved,  from  that  time  onward,  to  serve 
God;  that  he  had  endeavored  to  be  religious  in  days 
gone  by,  but  had  strayed  far  off;  that  he  believed 
in  the  dear  Redeemer,  and  that  in  him  vras  his  only 
hope  and  consolation."  He  had  been  baptized  in 
infancy,  and  brought  up  under  the  influence  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church.     At  his  request,  that  evening 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  281 

I  administered  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper 
to  him,  to  his  evident  comfort.  Friday  he  appeared 
much  better — spoke  of  the  sweet  rest  he  had  enjoyed 
the  night  before.  Saturday  he  did  not  appear  so 
well,  but  neither  he  nor  myself  thought  his  end  to 
be  so  nigh.  xVfter  reading  and  prayer  with  him  I 
urged  him  to  cast  all  his  care  on  the  Lord.  Thus 
I  left  him,  and  before  midnight  his  spirit  had  left 
the  clay  tenement.  On  Monday,  21st,  I  preached  his 
funeral  from  '•  Then  sliall  tlie  dust  return  to  the  earth 
as  it  ivas,  and  the  spirit  unto  God  who  gave  it.''  The 
people  could  not  all  get  into  the  body  of  the  house. 
The  Division  of  Sons  attended  in  a  body.  Several 
were  present  not  accustomed  to  listen  to  Protestant 
preaching. 

We  had  a  number  of  similarly-crowded  funerals, 
some  of  which  occurred  in  the  summer.  But  I  have 
given  the  two  above  as  a  little  out  of  the  ordinary 
course,  and  they  must  suffice.  According  to  an  old 
proverb,  "straws  show  which  way  the  wind  blows;" 
these  seemingly-unimportant  events  tend  to  throw 
some  light  on  the  influence  at  work  among  us.  Their 
voice  to  the  livino^  is  that  of  warnino;. 

The  last  day  of  July,  about  midnight,  a  sad  cas- 
ualty occurred  on  Lake  Superior,  near  "White  Fish 
Point.  The  Monticello  ran  into  the  Manhattan  on 
her  larboard  quarter.  She  began  to  sink,  and,  it  w^as 
said,  in  five  minutes  was  under  water  to  her  guards 
on  the  upper  deck.  By  the  dexterity,  self-possession, 
and  heroism  of  Captain  Wilson  and  several  others, 


282  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

on  board  the  Monticello,  all  the  passengers  and  others 
were  taken  from  the  sinking  vessel,  and  every  life 
saved.  "We  were  told  that  the  passengers  on  the 
Monticello  had  just  been  dancing,  a  thing  of  common 
occurrence  on  the  Lake  Superior  boats,  and,  at  the 
time  of  the  collision,  were  partaking  of  an  oyster 
supper.  Thus  are  people  often,  in  the  hight  of  con- 
viviality, intoxicated  by  trifling  amusements  and  sin- 
ful diversions;  as  thoughtless  about  their  souls  as 
though  they  had  none,  and  indifferent  about  the  ret- 
ributions of  eternity  as  if  such  things  were  idle 
dreams,  when  "there  is  but  a  step  between  them  and 
death." 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  283 


CHAPTER   XX. 

ANNUAL   TOUR  AMONG   THE   MISSIONS. 

"With  all  our  increased  facilities  for  travel  on  Lake 
Superior,  by  the  increased  number  of  boats,  we  were 
often  subject  to  great  detention.  I  had  expected  to 
leave  the  Saut  by  the  21st  of  May,  to  visit  the  mis- 
sions, but  was  detained  till  the  29th,  when  I  left  on 
the  propeller  Manhattan.  I  was  accompanied  by  my 
wife  and  dau<zhter  as  far  as  Eaizle  river,  where  I  left 
them  to  visit  old  acquaintances  and  friends,  and  pro- 
ceeded on  my  journey.  After  various  detentions  at 
Copper  Harbor,  Eagle  Harbor,  Eagle  river,  and  the 
Ontonagon,  we  landed  at  La  Pointe  early  in  the 
morning  of  June  4th,  having  been  on  the  way  nearly 
a  week.  The  day  was  spent  in  making  arrangements 
for  .the  coasting  voyage  ahead. 

Thursday,  5th,  accompanied  by  three  voyagers,  I 
left  La  Pointe  at  eight  o'clock,  A.  M.  A  little  before 
eight  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  pitched  our  tent  by  a  small 
river  emptying  into  Siskowet  Bay. 

Friday,  6th,  after  a  comfortable  night's  rest,  I  was 
awakened  between  three  and  four  o'clock  by  the 
sweet  music  of  some  little  birds.  We  left  our  camp 
at  five  o'clock;  Lake  delightfully  calm.  At  twelve 
o'clock  we  had  a  fine  sailing  breeze,  which  continued 


284  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

to  blow  steadily  from  the  north-east  till  we  entered 
the  St.  Louis  river.  As  we  drew  near  the  entrance, 
the  Lake  presented  the  most  angry  and  terrific  ap- 
pearance, owing  to  the  meeting  of  opposing  currents. 
The  water  for  miles  was  very  turbid,  as  if  torn  up 
from  the  bottom,  and  resembled  the  boiling  of  a  vast 
caldron.  To  ride  in  over  the  foaming  breakers,  to  all 
appearance,  looked  hazardous;  but  we  succeeded  in 
making  the  entrance,  and  before  night  had  camped  on 
a  point  to  our  left.  While  seated  in  the  boat,  and 
looking  out  upon  the  angry  waters,  I  wrote  with  pencil 
the  following  lines,  which  are  here  inserted,  not  as  a 
specimen  of  poetry — we  pretend  to  no  intimacy  with 
the  Muses — but  simply  as  expressive  of  our  feel- 
ings at  the  time : 

~r 

"  Great  Mater  of  the  earth  and  sea, 
Preserver  of  all  things  that  be, 
"Where  shall  a  ^vorm,  an  heir  of  dust, 
In  aught  but  thee  repose  his  trust  ? 
"While  toss'd  upon  the  turbid  wave, 
Thine  arm,  we  know,  is  strong  to  save ; 
Keep  then,  'and  bring  us  safe  to  land,' 
^  Held  '  in  the  hollow  of  tHy  hand.'  " 

Saturday  morning  we  had  occasional  showers.  AYe 
arrived  at  Fond  du  Lac  a  little  after  noon;  stopped 
with  Mr.  Carlton,  the  Government  blacksmith.  We 
missed  our  missionaries  very  much,  and  were  inclined 
to  wish,  in  view  of  the  shape  of  things,  that  we  again 
had  a  missionary  on  the  ground. 

On  Sunday  the  people  were  called  together  at  the 
mission-house  for  religious  worship.     Just  as  we  were 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  285 

on  our  way  a  large  boat  from  La  Pointc  arrived  with 
Indian  provisions,  and,  of  course,  became  the  center 
of  attraction  for  some  time.  But  few  were  at  meet- 
ing on  this  account.  Baptized  an  infant  of  Stephen 
Bungo,  a  colored  interpreter.  It  was  quite  rainy 
during  the  afternoon.  In  the  evening  I  preached 
to  a  few  Indians — S.  B.  interpreted. 

Monday  morning,  in  pretty  good  season,  we  were 
en  route  for  Sandy  Lake.  At  half-past  six  o'clock, 
P.  M.,  we  were  over  Knife  Portage,  and  had  camped. 
Our  canoe  had  been  badly  broken,  and  must  now  be 
mended.  Another  canoe  full  of  Indians  was  in  com- 
pany, some  looking  quite  respectable,  but  one,  a 
Sandy  Lake  Indian,  was  grease  and  dirt  from  top  to 
toe — a  perfect  specimen  of  a  lazy,  worthless  fellow. 
Wlien  my  men  were  getting  our  dinner  he  said  he 
would  eat  with  us,  and  drew  up  near  to  us.  But 
he  received  no  encouragement,  and  so  crept  back 
and  messed  with  his  comrades. 

I  had  suffered  considerably  all  the  way  from  in- 
fluenza, which  attacked  me  at  the  Saut — was  slowly 
recovering.  The  river  was  at  a  good  stage,  neither 
too  high  nor  too  low. 

Just  below  our  tent  the  water  of  the  St.  Louis  falls 
about  ten  feet  nearly  perpendicular,  and,  for  a  long 
distance,  dashes  and  foams  among  the  rocks.  Tues- 
day, 10th,  we  contended  successfully  against  the  long 
succession  of  rapids,  and  camped  at  night,  some  dis- 
tance above  the  Grand  Rapids,  near  a  place  called 
by  the  Indians   Che-ha-gah-me-goons,  or  little  grave. 


280  LIGHTS  AXD   SHADES  OF 

Here  a  Mr.  Aitken,  brotlier  to  the  Sub-Agent  at  tlie 
Saut,  once  lost  a  little  cMld  as  lie  was  passing  over 
this  route.  The  lone  grave  is  pointed  out  by  some 
cedar  pickets  which  inclose  it. 

Wednesday,  at  half-past  ten  o'clock,  we  were  at 
the  mouth  of  the  East  Savan  river.  In  following 
the  devious  windings  of  this  stream  our  way  was 
often  obstructed  by  trees,  which  had  fallen  across, 
and  by  flood  wood,  which  must  be  removed.  By 
eio-ht  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  were  at  the  head  of  the  river 
and  camped  for  the  night. 

Thursday  we  arrived  at  the  Sandy  Lake  mission 
a  little  after  noon.  Found  sister  Spates  in  poor 
health;  the  rest  of  the  missionaries  were  well.  Found 
things  about  the  mission  in  a  better  condition  than 
I  had  anticipated,  in  view  of  the  troubles  through 
which  the  missionaries  and  Indians  had  passed,  s 
particular  account  of  which  will  be  found  farther  on 
Our  great  lack  here,  at  this  time,  was  a  good  inter- 
preter. There  was  no  person  that  we  could  rcl}? 
on  to  attend  to  this  duty.  I  was,  therefore,  compelled, 
during  this  visit,  to  conduct  our  meetings  among  tlie 
Indians  in  my  own  broken  style  of  speaking  Ojibwa, 
without  any  interpreter. 

Friday  was  spent  in  the  transaction  of  business. 
Saturday  afternoon  we  had  public  worship.  Sabbath, 
at  half-past  nine  o'clock,  we  had  prayer  meeting. 
At  the  close  of  this  I  related  to  the  Indians,  as  well 
as  I  could,  something  of  my  religious  experience, 
and  cave  them  an   exhortation.     I  succeeded  much 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  287 

better  than  I  could  have  anticipated.  At  eleven 
o'clock  the  house  was  well  filled  with  whites  and 
Indians.  We  sung  in  Indian.  Then  I  read  appro- 
priate prayers  in  Ojibwa,  including  the  Lord's  prayer. 
After  this,  a  part  of  the  second  chapter  to  the  He- 
brews was  read.  I  then  read  my  text  in  Ojibwa,  and 
offered,  in  broken  Indiau,  some  remarks  on  man's 
original  purity  as  God  made  him ;  how  he  sinned  and 
brought  upon  himself  guilt,  pain,  and  death;  how 
God  loved  man  in  his  fallen  state,  and  sent  his  Son 
to  die  on  the  cross,  and  by  this  means  procured  a 
great  salvation  for  us;  that  if  we  embraced  Christ 
and  his  Gospel  it  would  make  us  happier  every  way 
in  our  condition  here,  and  make  us  happy  forever 
in  heaven;  but  that  if  we  rejected  this  Gospel  we 
must  perish  forever.  I  exhorted  them  to  cast  aside 
their  heathenism  and  embrace  the  truth.  The  Indians 
were  very  attentive,  and  I  thought  the  most  of  them 
understood  what  I  endeavored  to  say  to  them.  Af- 
terward read  my  text  in  English — Hebrews  ii,  3 — and 
spoke  with  more  than  common  point  and  freedom 
to  the  whites  present.  In  the  afternoon  commemo- 
rated the  dying  sorrows  of  our  Lord.  It  was  a  deeply- 
solemn  and  interesting  time  to  the  small  company 
who  partook.  At  night  w^e  had  a  refreshing  prayer 
meeting  with  the  missionaries.  We  never  all  expected 
to  meet  again  on  earth.  But  we  felt  as  if  we  could 
antedate  a  better  meeting  in  the  skies.  We  could 
but  think,  at  the  time,  that  if  the  Church  could  only 

witness  the  holy  fervor  Avliich  seemed  to  characterize 
^  24 


288  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

our  missionaries  in  this  heatlien  land,  tliej  would  not 
despair  though  they  should  be  compelled  to  labor 
long  without  apparent  fruit. 

In  the  month  of  the  March  previous  one  of  the 
heathen  Indians  had  killed  an  ox,  belonging  to  the 
mission,  under  the  eyes  of  the  missionaries,  and  in 
a  most  aggravating  manner.  Brother  Spates  was 
absent  at  the  time.  The  Agent  was  called  upon  to 
interpose  his  authority.  He  came  and  forbade  the 
Indian  to  take  any  of  the  meat.  Brother  Holt  got 
the  ox  into  the  stable,  closed  the  door,  and  was  about 
dressing  it  when  the  Indian  broke  open  the  door  with 
an  ax,  and  was  determined  to  have  the  meat.  Brother 
Holt  again  went  to  call  the  Agent,  and  while  gone 
the  Indian  cut  off  the  head  and  one  of  the  fore- quar- 
ters, and  took  them  away.  Brother  H.  returned  and 
put  the  rest  on  a  hand-train  to  get  it  into  the  house. 
The  Indian  took  hold  of  it,  and  determined  that  the 
missionary  should  not  have  it.  The  missionary  per- 
sisted, and  took  it  away,  to  the  great  chagrin  of  the 
savage,  who  brandished  his  butcher-knife  in  brother 
H.'s  face.  The  Agent  had  threatened  to  take  this 
Indian  into  custody  and  have  him  punished  for  this 
outrage,  but  nothing  had  yet  been  done. 

Monday  morning,  before  I  left  Sandy  Lake,  the 
Indians  must  have  an  interview  with  me  to  know 
what  was  to  be  done  with  the  transgressor.  They 
were  anxious  to  have  the  matter  settled  on  the  spot. 
But  I  told  them  that  this  was  the  business  of  the 
Agent,  and  that  they  must  wait  till  payment  time  to 


MISSIONARY   LIFE  .  289 

have  it  adjusted.  Told  them  that  I  hoped  the  Gov- 
ernment Tvoiild  punish  this  man  as  his  crime  deserved. 
During  this  same  season  our  mission  lost  a  fine  horse, 
valued  at  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  It  Avas  sus- 
pected that  a  half-breed  from  Fond  du  Lac  had  killed 
and  eaten  him.  Thus  was  our  best  mission  property 
exposed  to  the  depredations  of  lawless  savages,  and 
even  the  lives  of  the  missionaries  were  often  in 
jeopardy. 

^Ye  left  the  mission  before  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  and 
got  pretty  well  down  the  East  Savan  river  before 
night.  My  influenza  had  now  left  me,  and  my  health 
was  every  way  greatly  improved.  "We  camped  the 
next  ni;rht  at  Knife  Portac^e.  It  rained  nearlv  all 
night,  accompanied  with  loud  thunder.  Wednesday 
we  were  at  Fond  du  Lac  early  in  the  afternoon. 
Stopped  here  an  hour  or  so,  and  were  again  on  our 
vray.  As  it  was  quite  rainy  we  camped  about  four 
o'clock,  P.  M.  Thursday  we  coasted  about  forty 
miles,  and  camped  early  at  the  Brule  river,  much 
fatio^ued.  Three  larf]^©  batteaux  arrived  here  from  La 
Pointe,  on  their  way  to  Fond  du  Lac,  with  Indian 
provisions,  in  the  employ  of  the  Fur  Company — a 
merry  company  of  men,  about  thirty  in  number.  Fri- 
day we  had  a  rough  sea  and  a  pretty  hard  day's  toil, 
and  were  forced  to  camp  in  a  very  close  and  uncom- 
fortable spot,  near  the  water's  edge.  Saturday  we 
were  chained  to  our  camp  till  four  o'clock,  P.  M. 
Eamy  and  uncomfortable  weather;  wind  ahead  and  a 
very  rough  sea.     We  then   removed   our  camp   and 


290  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

traveled  till  near  midnight,  and  camped  not  far  from 
Raspberry  river.  Sunday  morning  my  men  called 
me  up  very  early.  A  stiff  breeze  was  blowing  in  tlie 
direction  of  La  Pointe.  We  lioisted  sail,  and  before 
nine  o'clock  were  at  tlie  Fur  Company's  establish- 
ment; breakfasted  at  Mr.  Oaks's,  and  had  the  privi- 
leo-e  once  more  of  unitino;  with  the  missionaries  of 
the  American  Board  in  the  worship  of  God. 

Monday  2Sd.  The  morning  was  spent  in  transact- 
ing business.  In  the  afternoon,  accompanied  by  Rev. 
Mr.  Hall  and  wife  went  to  Bad  river  to  visit  the 
station  there,  under  the  supervision  of  Rev.  L.  H. 
Wheeler.  The  Indians  had  made  very  considerable 
improvements  here  in  clearing  land,  building,  etc.  A 
school  and  religious  meetings  were  kept,  and  much 
had  been  done,  by  the  self-sacrificing  missionaries,  to 
better  the  condition  of  the  natives,  and  with  appar- 
ent evidences  of  success.  Tuesday  morning,  after  a 
pleasant  night  spent  with  our  friends  at  the  mission, 
returned  with  brother  Hall  to  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
where  my  men  and  boat  from  La  Pointe  were  waiting. 
Camped  that  night  five  or  six  miles  west  of  Black 
river. 

Wednesday,  25th,  about  half-past  two  o'clock  were 
aroused  by  swarms  of  musketoes  and  gnats.  We  got 
ready,  started  immediately,  and  found  good  sailing. 
Breakfasted  at  Presque  Isle,  and  were  soon  on  our 
way  with  a  fresh  wind  from  the  south-west,  and  were 
sailing  very  fast.  Wind  had  increased  considerably 
by  nine  o'clock — sea  became  quite  rough — wind  rather 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  -  291 

flawy — had  to  lessen  sail.  We  had  a  good  Mackinaw 
boat,  a  fine  sailer,  or  we  should  have  been  in  a  bad 
fix.  ATe  seemed  to  pass  the  land  like  a  streak.  As 
we  rounded  the  points  of  the  Porcupine  Mountains, 
we  had  a  very  rough  sea.  We  paid  little  attention  to 
the  deep  bays  on  our  route;  generally  made  a  straight 
wake  across  them.  Ey  noon  we  were  opposite  Iron 
river.  Here  we  laid  our  course  direct  for  the  Onton- 
agon. By  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  were  there,  having 
sailed  about  fifty  miles  from  the  time  we  left  camp. 
Such  sailing,  in  open  boat,  is  of  rare  occurrence.  I 
had  never  before  sailed  so  far  in  the  same  time; 
twice  had  nearly  equaled  it  in  a  bark  canoe,  saihng 
faster,  perhaps,  but  not  so  far  at  a  time.  Here  I  ex- 
pected to  have  met  with  my  family,  but  they  had 
waited  for  the  next  boat.  Every  house  and  hovel  in 
the  place  was  crowded,  and  scarcely  any  thing  like 
appropriate  or  comfortable  accommodations  could  be 
found.  Every  boat  that  arrived  was  crowded  with 
passengers.  Houses  could  not  be  built  to  supply  the 
demand  for  want  of  lumber. 

Friday  the  Manhattan  arrived,  having  on  board 
Rev.  W.  Benson  and  wife,  from  Eagle  river,  and  my 
family.  -The  captain  .  ran  into  the  river — quite  an 
era  in  the  history  of  Ontonagon — the  first  steam 
craft  that  had  ever  made  the  experiment.  The  citi- 
zens expressed  their  gratification  on  the  occasion,  by 
crowding  upon  the  dock,  and  by  loud  and  enthusiastic 
cheering.  After  discharging  freight,  the  captain  ran 
some  distance  up  the  river,  but,  getting  aground,  was 


292  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

forced  to  retreat.  The  Ontonagon  river  miglit  liave 
been  navigated  for  several  miles,  but  for  obstructions 
lodged  in  places  on  tbe  bottom.  I  could  get  no 
promise  of  entertainment  for  my  family,  on  store, 
and  ys'e  -were  compelled  to  find  lodgings  on  board 
tbe  Manhattan  for  tbe  night. 

Saturday,  28th,  vre  all  ^vent  ashore.  My  Avife  and 
daughter  and  sister  Benson  remained  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  vrith  sister  Day,  T\-hile  brother  Day,  brother 
Benson,  and  myself,  ^-ent  to  the  Minnesota  Mine  to 
spend  the  Sabbath.  The  trail  was  now  exceedingly 
muddy — much  of  the  way  we  waded  nearly  knee- 
deep  in  mud  and  water — distance,  fourteen  miles. 
"We  arrived  about  three  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  were 
kindly  received  by  Mr.  Roberts,  the  Agent. 

Sabbath  morning  I  preached  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  whim  Jioiise,  to  a  respectable  congregation  of 
men — but  one  female.  Brother  Benson  preached  in 
the  afternoon,  after  which  we  administered  the  Lord's 
supper  to  six  or  seven  persons;  and  at  night  I 
preached  again  to  a  good  congregation  of  men — not 
a  woman  present.  A  good  influence  pervaded  these 
seasons  of  worship;  but  this  was  as  yet  the  day  of 
small  things,  religiously,  for  the  Minnesota  location. 

Monday  we  returned  to  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
where  Mr.  T.  Hanna  kindly  entertained  me  and  my 
family.  "Wednesday  morning  the  Monticello  came 
into  the  river,  on  which  boat  we  left  the  Ontonagon 
the  same  evening.  Thursday  morning  we  arrived 
at  Eagle  river  before  day.     Here  I  parted  with  my 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  203 

family  at  nine  o'clock,  A.  M.;  they  bound  for  Copper 
Harbor,  to  await  my  return  from  the  Kewawenon 
mission.  The  day  I  spent  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Cliff  Mine,  and  the  night  "svith  brother  Benson  at 
the  Phoenix  Mine. 

IX  DEPENDENCE. 

Every  true  American  must  hail  -R-ith  patriotic  de- 
light the  birthday  of  the  independence  of  the  United 
States.  This  must  be  so,  -^-hether  surrounded  by  the 
pomp  and  glitter  of  a  regular  celebration,  or,  like  an 
exile,  shut  out  from  such  exciting  scenes,  and  left  a 
lone  wanderer  in  the  wilderness.  Friday  morning, 
July  4th,  I  started  for  Kewawenon.  Two  men  were 
to  meet  me  at  the  Cliff,  or  at  the  North  American,  to 
accompany  me.  I  called  at  each  place,  and  was 
detained  in  waiting  an  hour  and  a  half;  then  went 
some  eight  miles  to  the  Forsythe  Mine,  and  waited 
again  four  hours.  My  disappointment  being  now 
confirmed,  I  shouldered  my  sachel  and  started,  re- 
solved to  make  the  best  of  it  alone.  Eight  miles 
over  a  hilly'  trail  brought  me  out  of  the  woods,  to 
the  head  of  Torch  Lake.  A  Dutchman  was  living 
here  in  an  old,  dilapidated  storehouse,  which  more 
resembled  a  filthy  stable  than  a  human  habitation.  I 
took  a  lunch  to  stay  my  stomach.  There  was  nothing 
here  peculiarly  interesting  for  a  Fourth  of  July  enter- 
tainment. At  half-past  six  o'clock,  P.  M.,  I  left  in  a 
small  log  canoe. 

The  Lake  fortunately  was  calm.     Soon  after  I  had 


294  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

crossed  Torch  Lake  niglit  shut  in  around  me.  I  fol 
lowed  the  meanderings  of  Torch  river  till  it  led  into 
Portage  Lake,  and  still  kept  on  my  course  till  aftei 
midnight,  having  paddled  some  fifteen  miles.  It  now 
became  very  dark,  and  the  clouds  were  threatening. 
For  some  distance  the  shore  was  fringed  with  tangled 
bushes,  logs,  and  grassy  bogs.  Several  times  I  ran 
the  canoe  into  these  obstructions,  and  had  to  back 
out,  and  feel  my  way  along  as  well  as  I  could.  I 
was  near  an  Indian  cabin,  but  could  not  tell  where 
was  the  landing,  which  was  in  a  little  cove.  I  called 
out  several  times,  and  as  often  heard  a  voice  dis- 
tinctly from  the  opposite  shore  of  Portage  Lake — 
the  echo  doubtless  of  my  own.  Now  the  dogs  barked, 
by  which  means  I  found  the  landing.  On  going  to 
the  cabin  I  found  it  locked,  and  no  person  about.  I 
had  perspired  freely  from  such  severe  exercise.  My 
clothes  were  quite  wet  from  the  water  splashing  over 
my  little  dug-out,  and,  from  my  cramped  position  for 
more  than  six  hours,  my  limbs  were  sore,  and  I  felt 
exhausted.  Without  bed  or  blanket,  and  with  the 
dogs  for  companions,  I  kindled  a  fire,  took  the  soft 
side  of  a  piece  of  puncheon,  which  I  had  placed 
before  the  fire,  occasionally  changing  sides  to  dry  my 
wet  clothes  and  relieve  my  aching  limbs.  I  rested 
some,  but  did  not  sleep.  At  day  dawn  it  seemed  as 
if  I  should  be  devoured  by  the  sanguinary  swarms 
of  insect  tribes,  which  gathered  around  for  a  morning 
repast.  I  arose  and  prepared  my  breakfast.  My 
store  was  a  little  hard  bread,  some  tea  and  sugar. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  295 

I  had  a  little  tin-cup,  which  sister  Benson  thought- 
fully had  put  into  my  sachel  to  drink  out  of.  How 
I  made  it  answer  for  tea-kettle,  tea-pot,  cup,  saucer, 
and  all,  the  reader  must  guess.  Braced  up  for  the 
toils  of  the  day  with  such  a  repast,  I  was  again  in 
the  canoe,  headed  for  the  Entry,  or  mouth  of  the 
Portage,  some  five  miles  farther.  On  my  arrival  I 
found  the  Indian  and  his  son  at  whose  cabin  I  had 
sought  shelter.  In  the  afternoon  they  took  a  boat 
and  conveyed  me  over  to  the  Kewawenon  mission. 
For  want  of  sleep  I  could  scarcely  keep  my  eyes 
open  sufficiently  to  steer  our  boat.  "We  arrived  at 
the  mission  just  before  sundown.  But  I  felt  rather 
worse  for  the  wear,  owing  to  my  independent  way  of 
spending  ^'tlie  glorious  Fourth^ 

The  Sabbath  spent  at  the  mission  was,  as  usual,  a 
time  of  interest  and  profit.  Sister  Barnum  was  still 
lingering  on  the  shores  of  time,  ripening  for  heaven. 
When  I  left  the  mission  each  of  the  two  preceding 
seasons,  I  did  not  expect  to  see  her  again  in  time ; 
but.  God  had  kindly  prolonged  her  stay. 

I  will  not  detain  the  reader  with  particulars  of  our 
consultation  with  the  Indians  on  Monday,  except  to 
give  a  brief  speech  made  by  Kog-ioa-on,  a  very  sen- 
sible and,  in  many  respects,  exemplary  man,  though 
not  a  professed  Christian:  "I  wish  to  say  a  few 
words,  and  I  do  not  wish  you  to  throw  them  out  of 
doors.  I  wish  that  my  grandfather  had  embraced 
the  Gospel.     If  the  Gospel  had  come  among  its  first, 

then  we  would  not  have  liad  the  fire-water;  but  the 
25 


296  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

iire-Avater  came  among  us  before  the  Gospel,  and  we 
received  it,  and  it  was  the  strongest  and  overcame 
us.  I  do  not  blame  the  Indians  for  drinking  the  fire- 
water. If  the  Avhite  people  did  not  make  it  and 
bring  it  to  us,  we  should  not  have  it." 

I  replied  that  "it  was  not  good  white  men  who 
made  and  brought  them  the  fire-water ;  that  this  was 
done  by  bad  men;  that  all  good  white  men  hated  this 
business,  and  would  be  glad  to  put  it  down  if  they 
could;  and  that  the  only  way  for  the  Indians  was  not 
to  touch  the  accursed  poison — they  could  let  it  alone 
if  they  would.  If  you  put  your  hand  into  the  fire, 
it  will  burn  you ;  and  if  you  drink  tliis  fire-water,  it 
will  burn  and  consume  your  souls." 

Tuesday,  on  account  of  head  wind,  I  did  not  get 
away  from  the  mission  till  three  o'clock,  P.  M.; 
reached  the  Phoenix  Mine,  at  Eagle  river,  Thursday 
morning,  in  time  to  breakfast  with  the  family  of 
brother  Benson.  I  spent  the  rest  of  the  day  and 
the  day  following  in  the  vicinity  of  Eagle  river, 
Saturday  afternoon  we  attended  to  the  business  of 
the  quarterly  conference;  preached  in  the  evening. 
Sabbath  morning  some  twenty-six  were  in  attendance 
at  the  love-feast.  God  was  in  the  midst  to  bless.  I 
preached  to  a  respectable  congregation  at  half-past 
ten  o'clock,  and  baptized  two  children.  I  preached 
again  at  half-past  two,  P.  M.,  and  administered  the 
sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper.  Afterward  I  went 
to  the  North  American,  and  baptized  Captain  Paul's 
little  daughter.     At  night  I  preached  again  at  the 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  297 

Cliff;  the  house  ^-as  well  filled  Tvith  attentive  hearers. 
I  took  up  a  collection  of  §10.81  for  the  support  of 
the  Gospel.  After  the  meeting  had  closed  I  walked 
with  brother  Benson  and  his  wife  some  three  miles, 
to  their  residence  at  the  Phoenix  Mine.  After  a  day 
so  filled  up  with  active  duties,  rest  was  most  welcome. 
Monday  walked  to  Eagle  river;  here  got  an  Indian 
to  take  me  in  his  canoe,  some  eight  miles,  to  Agate 
Harbor.  Thence  I  endeavored  to  follow  the  old  trail 
to  Copper  Harbor,  which,  since  I  had  traveled  it 
last,  had  grown  up  with  grass,  and  was  obstructed 
by  fallen  timber  and  bushes,  so  that  in  one  place 
I  missed  my  way,  and  traveled  a  considerable  dis- 
tance before  I  got  into  the  trail  again.  When  I 
reached  the  Harbor  I  was  wet,  cap-a-pie,  from  the 
di-ipping  bushes  and  grass.  Here  I  was  rejoiced  to 
unite  once  more  with  my  family.  Wednesday  we 
took  passage  on  the  Monticello  for  the  Saut.  We  were 
out  only  nineteen  hours  till  we  were  at  M'Knight's  - 
wharf  at  the  Saut — probably  the  quickest  trip  ever 
before  made  from  Copper  Harbor.  After  the  vicis- 
situdes of  a  tour  of  seven  weeks,  lacking  a  few 
hours,  it  was  grateful  to  our  feelings  to  set  foot 
again  in  our  unpretending  home. 


298  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 


CHAPTER    XXi. 

JOXDITIOX  AXD   PROSPECTS   OP   THE   MISSIONS 

■\YiTn  the  exception  of  some  slight  amendments, 
the  following  statement  of  the  condition  and  pros- 
pects of  the  missions  in  the  Indian  Mission  district 
was  penned  near  the  close  of  the  summer  of  1851 : 

I.  Indian  Missions. — Impediments  have  been 
thrown  in  the  way  of  our  efforts  to  evangelize  the 
Indians  in  the  western  part  of  this  district,  by  the 
efforts  of  the  Government  to  effect  their  removal. 
The  Indians  have  already  suffered  much.  They  have 
felt,  in  consequence,  chafed  in  their  minds,  and,  to 
a  considerable  extent,  they  are  jealous  of  their  best 
friends,  because  of  the  wrongs  they  have  suffered. 
To  give  a  brief  detail  of  facts. 

Bemoval  of  the  Payment  to  Sancl/j  Lake. — Since 
the  treaty  the  payment  had  been  made  at  La  Pointe. 
This  place  was  quite  central,  so  far  as  the  Indians 
connected  with  our  missions  were  concerned,  and 
easy  of  access.  But  with  a  view  to  effecting  the 
removal  of  the  Indians  west  the  payment  was  removed 
to  Sandy  Lake,  and  a  refusal  to  go  there  to  receive 
it  amounted  to  a  forfeiture.  The  Indians  about  Ke- 
wawenon  did  not  go,  and,  as  a  result,  got  nothing. 
A  laro-e  band  of  Indians  at  LaJce  Viciix  Desert  also 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  299 

suffered  tlie  loss  of  their  i^ayment  before  they  -would 
consent  to  go  to   Sandy  Lake.     If   I  was  correctly 
informed  none  of  them  went.     Many,  however,  from 
different  points  did  convene  at  the  call  of  the  Agent. 
TrouhJcs  after  tJieir  arrival  at  Sandij  Lahe. — They 
were  in  a  most  destitute  situation.     As  their  route 
led  across  land  portages,  some  of  them  miles  in  ex- 
tent, they  could  not  take  with  them  bark  to  construct 
lodges.     Nor  could  any  thing  be  obtained  at  Sandy 
Lake  to   afford  even   a  tolerable  shelter  for   several 
hundred  Indians  from  the   pelting  rain   and   snows 
of  autumn.     Their  clothing  was  scarcely  a  circum- 
stance.    The  wood  they  burned,  as  the  missionaries 
informed  me,  they  carried  on  their  backs  the  distance 
of  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half.     Nor  were  they  any 
better  off  for  food.     They  waited  a  long  time  for  the 
arrival  of  the  Agent — threatened  to  force  open  the 
provision  store  and  help  themselves,  and  would  have 
done  so  but  for  the  resolute  manner  in  which  it  had 
been  guarded.     Their  provisions  they  must  and  did 
get,  which  were  nearly  or  quite  consumed  while  wait- 
ing for  their  pay.     Another  aggravating  circumstance 
was  connected  with  their  provisions.     The  contractors 
had  stored  a  large  quantity  of  the  flour  near  the  Mis- 
sissippi.     The   river  rose,  and,   for   some   time,   the 
flour  was  submerged,  and  consequently  badly  dam- 
aged.    But,  such  as  it  was,  it  was  fed  out  to  the  hun- 
gry Indians.     Almost  incited  to  insurrection  by  past 
grievances,  they  were  measurably  quieted  in  hope  of 
being  paid  off  on  the  arrival  of  the  Agent.     After 


J]00  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

waiting  about  two  months^  what  must  have  been  their 
disappointment  to  be  met  with  the  cold  comfort  that 
their  Great  Father  {?)  was  not  yet  ready  to  pay  them ; 
they  must  wait  another  year  for  their  money! 

Sickness  and  Death. — Meanwhile  disease  had  been 
making  terrible  ravages  among  them.  It  assumed 
the  form  of  dysentery;  some  thought  it  to  be  a  mod- 
ification of  cholera.  Simultaneously  the  measles  was 
prevailing.  As  a  result  of  the  malignant  diseases 
abroad,  there  were  about  two  hundred  deaths.  Fre- 
quently seven  or  eight  died  in  a  day.  So  alarming 
was  the  mortality  that  the  Indians  complained  that 
they  could  not  bury  their  dead.  Coffins  could  not 
be  procured,  and  often  the  body  of  the  deceased  was 
wrapped  up  in  a  piece  of  bark  and  buried  slightly 
under  ground.  At  times  a  hole  was  dug  and  several 
corpses  together  thrown  in  and  covered  up.  Often 
when  one  died  in  a  wigwam,  the  surviving  friends 
would  dig  a  grave  in  the  center,  bury  their  dead,  and 
remove  their  lodge.  All  over  the  cleared  land  graves 
were  to  be  seen  in  every  direction,  for  miles  distant, 
from  Sandy  Lake;  they  were  to  be  found  in  the 
woods.  Some,  it  is  not- known  how  many,  were  in- 
terred by  their  friends  on  their  way  home.  I  was 
credibly  informed  that  there  were  instances  in  which 
the  sick  were  unable  to  accompany  their  relatives, 
and  were  left  alone  to  perish  in  the  wilderness.  One 
man,  it  is  said,  importuned  his  wife  to  remain  with 
him  and  not  to  suffer  him  to  die  alone.  She  replied 
that  if  she  should  remain  she  must  die  too,  and  thus 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  gQl 

left  him.  On  my  way  to  Sandy  Lake  I  saw  a  number 
of  those  recent  graves,  and,  in  some  places,  there 
were  remaining  racks  or  frames  constructed  for  the 
support  of  the  sick.  The  evidences  of  a  terrible 
calamity  every-where  met  the  eye. 

Destruction  of  Canoes. — The  Indians  who  went  to 
payment  via  the  St.  Louis  river,  left  their  canoes 
at  the  confluence  of  the  East  Savan  and  the  St. 
Louis,  thinking  that  it  would  not  be  safe  to  take  them 
to  the  head  of  the  Savan,  as  that  might  be  frozen 
over  before  they  returned.  But  they  did  not  dream 
of  being  detained  till  the  large  and  rapid  St.  Louis 
should  be  frozen  over.  Such,  however,  was  the  fact. 
Finding  the  rivers  closed  on  their  return,  and  all  a 
snowy  wilderness  around,  some  were  so  enraged  that 
they  broke  their  canoes  in  pieces  for  fuel,  others  were 
purposely  broken  to  prevent  them  from  being  stolen; 
many  more  were  simply  left  in  the  snow,  and,  on  the 
opening  of  spring,  some  were  stolen,  many  were  car- 
ried down  the  St.  Louis  and  lods^ed  amonsj  the  flood- 
wood,  or  against  the  banks.  I  saw  quite  a  number 
in  this  situation.  A  few  were  still  remaining,  when 
I  passed,  where  they  had  been  left.  The  number 
of  the  canoes  thus  sacrificed  is  not  known.  The 
Indians  said  a  hundred  or  more.  They  were  worth 
from  eight  to  twenty  dollars  each,  which  shows  a 
heavy  destruction  of  property,  besides  the  inconven- 
ience and  hardship  to  which  the  Indians  were  sub- 
jected in  being  compelled  to  walk  home,  and  carry 
their  efi'ects  on  their  backs. 


302  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

"With  this  chain  of  distressing  evils,  the  cause  of 
which  the  Indians  charge  upon  the  Government,  it 
is  not  to  be  -wondered  at  that  many  should  have  been 
driven  almost  to  desperation.  And,  as  it  is  difficult 
for  the  Irdians  to  distinguish  between  friends  and 
enemies;  as  they  can  not  be  expected  to  make  due 
allowance  for  the  unavoidable  failures  of  the  Govern- 
ment, it  is  no  great  wonder  that  they  should  feel 
jealous  even  of  the  missionaries;  rank  them  with 
others  ^s  enemies  and  treat  them  accordingly.  This 
may  account  for  the  treatment  received  by  our  mis- 
sionaries at  Sandy  Lake  the  past  winter.  It  must, 
however,  be  set  down  to  the  credit  of  the  Indians 
that  the  ill  treatment  suffered  by  the  missionaries  is 
to  be  charged,  not  to  the  Indians  en  masse,  but  to 
a  few  of  the  most  abandoned. 

My  report,  which  was  forwarded  to  the  Corres- 
ponding Secretary  of  the  Missionary  Society  some 
time  near  the  close  of  the  summer,,  and  published 
in  the  Missionary  Advocate,  will  give  a  succinct  view 
of  the  condition  and  prospects  of  our  missions.  It 
is  here  given  entire,  with  Dr.  Durbin's  brief  notice 
at  the  head: 

INDIAN   MISSIONS. 

MiCHiGAX  CoJTFEiiEXCE. — The  following  is  the  re- 
port of  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Pitezel,  Superintendent  of  the 
Indian  Missionary  District,  dated  August  25th.  It 
is  made  up  of  sunshine  and  clouds,  yet  we  discern 
in  it  the   promise  of   blessed  fruit.     The  reader  at 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  303 

liomc  v,-]\\  not  read  ^vitliout  reflecting  on  the  toils  and 
danorers  of  the  missionaries  and  their  families : 

^'Saut  Ste.  Marie  Mission — J.  IT.  Fitezel,  S. 
Sleele,  and  P.  Blarlcsman^  Missionaries. — This  mis- 
sion embraces  two  places  where  religious  services 
are  kept  up  regularly  on  the  Sabbath;  and  occasion- 
ally we  have  meetings  at  two  other  places,  at  each 
of  which  are  a  few  Indians. 

"Saut  Ste.  Marie  Village. — Here  our  labors  are 
confined  to  the  white  population.  In  the  summer 
this  is  the  great  thoroughfare  to  Lake  Superior,  and 
persons  of  all  ranks  pass  through,  from  most  parts 
of  the  world.  Many  of  these  travelers,  from  time  to 
time,  attend  upon  the  worship  of  God  with  us,  and  ob- 
tain, we  trust,  a  passing  benefit.  It  is  in  this  respect, 
more  than  in  view  of  any  very  permanent  religious 
society,  that  this  place  is  important,  and  continues  to 
be  occupied  by  us.  Even  here  we  are  not  without 
tokens  of  Divine  favor,  and  feel  that  we  are  doing 
something  at  least  to  extend  the  kingdom  of  our 
Master. 

"Naomikong. — This  has  been  the  residence  of 
brothers  Steele  and  Marksman,  and  most  of  our 
Indians  live  here.  These  Indians,  as  a  body,  are 
sober  and  respectable.  Intemperance  is  only  occa- 
sional among  them,  though  they  are  brought  into 
frequent  contact  with  the  destructive  fire-water.  Now 
owners  of  good  land,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  a  saw- 
mill, they  are  building  houses  and  cultivating  the 
soil   as   fast  as  their   means   will   allow.     They  are 


804  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

gradually,  but  certainly,  improving  in  the  arts  of 
civilized  life.  A  day  school  has  been  kept  up  most 
of  the  time,  numbering  twenty-one  boys  and  seven 
girls.  Five  children  have  been  boarded  in  the  mis- 
sion family.  Most  of  the  children  were  quite  regular 
in  their  attendance;  some  not  so.  They  are  reported 
as  having  made  good  proficiency  in  the  common  Eng- 
lish branches. 

^'The  Church  has  been  decidedly  prospered  and 
blessed  this  year.  It  numbers — white  members,  five ; 
Indians,  fifty-eight;  and  probationers  among  the  In- 
dians, ten.  We  have  an  increase  of  twenty-eight 
members  over  last  year.  This  is  a  large  increase 
among  a  small  Indian  community.  A  meeting  was 
commenced  the  13th  inst.,  and  closed  last  Sabbath 
evening.  I  was  present  the  first  two  days.  While 
there  we  were  blessed  in  waiting  upon  the  Lord  to- 
gether. Brother  Steele  informed  me  that  the  meet- 
ing increased  in  interest  to  the  close;  they  had  the 
best  of  the  v/ine  at  the  close  of  the  feast.  On  Sab- 
bath the  school-house  would  not  hold  all  the  people. 
When  built  we  supposed  it  would  hold  all  the  people 
in  the  settlement;  but  others  are  gathering  in  around 
us,  and  if  we  are  only  suffered  quietly  to  pursue  our 
work,  we  have  reason  to  believe  that  much  good  will 
yet  be  accomplished. 

"At  Shaw's  place,  six  miles  above  this,  we  have 
meetings  occasionally. 

"Waishkees  Bay  is  the  name  of  the  other  place 
occasionally  visited  by  the  missionaries. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  305 

"  Kewawexox  Mission — N.  Barnum  and  L\i  Stacy  ^ 
3fissionaries ;  Josef h  Bmhay,  Interpreter. — At  tins 
station  y^a  number  forty-four  Indian  members  and 
one  probationer ;  two  whites.  This  shows  a  decrease 
of  seven  during  the  year.  We  are  not  surprised  at 
this.  The  small-pox  and  other  diseases  broke  out  last 
winter,  and  operated  much  against  the  public  meetings. 
And  then  the  unsettled  state  of  Indian  aifairs  gener- 
ally— the  fear  of  having  to  remove,  more  than  any 
thing  else — operated  against  the  religious  prosperity 
of  these  Indians.  The  school  has  been  small,  num- 
bering only  eighteen  scholars.  The  children  belong- 
ing to  the  band  are  not  numerous.  Brother  I.  Stacy 
has  taught  the  school.  The  children  in  general  have 
learned  well.  The  temporal  condition  of  the  mis- 
sion was  never  as  good  as  now.  We  have  a  good 
church,  and  every  convenience  to  prosecute  our  labors 
successfully;  more  so  than  at  any  other  point  in  this 
district.  Will  the  Government  force  us  to  pull  up 
stakes  here? 

^'  Carp  Rh^er. — This  place  is  situated  on  the  south 
shore  of  Lake  Superior,  about  forty  miles  west  of 
Grand  Island,  the  depot  of  the  iron  mines.  Some 
three  or  four  companies  are  working  in  the  vicinity. 
The  settlers  are  mostly  Americans,  intelligent  and 
enterprising.  It  is  destined  to  be  one  of  the  most 
important  points  on  the  Lake;  it  has  opened  already 
a  large  trade.  Brother  Barnum  recently  visited  the 
people,  and  spent  some  time  among  them.  lie  was 
very  kindly  received,  and  they  insist  on  having  a 


306  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

Methodist  preacher  next  year.  They  must  have  one, 
if  one  is  to  be  had.  We  have,  in  the  vicinity,  twent}^- 
eight  members.  Union  meetings  and  a  union  Sab- 
bath school  are  kept  up  by  the  representatives  of 
different  Churches  in  the  absence  of  a  preacher. 

"  Saxdy  Lake  and  Mill  Lac  Missions — aS'.  Sjyates 
and  J.  W.  Holt.,  3Iissionaries. — Ko  flattering  report 
can  be  made  of  this  mission  for  the  past  year.  It 
has  been  a  year  unparalleled  in  its  history  for  deep 
and  sore  trials  among  the  missionaries,  and  scarcely 
ever  have  such  calamities  befallen  the  Lidians.  To 
them  it  has  been  a  year  of  mourning  and  woe.  They 
carry  this  in  their  countenances  and  upon  their  black- 
ened skins.  The  infrequency  of  theu*  accustomed 
mittas,  the  few  dances  they  celebrate,  and  the  com- 
parative silence  and  gloom  that  has  seemed  to  settle 
down  upon  them,  are  proofs  of  this.  We  have  among 
them  only  four  members  and  two  whites,  but  even  in 
these  we  see  the  effects  of  the  power  of  the  Gospel. 
They  stand  as  a  beacon  to  others.  Li  the  midst  of 
the  sorest  trials,  the  little  few  have  experienced  the 
greatest  Divine  support. 

^'The  school,  taught  by  brother  Holt,  has  numbered 
thirty  scholars.  Their  attendance  has  not  been  very 
regular,  nor  have  they  made  as  much  progress  as  the 
children  at  other  stations.  There  is  a  cause  for  this: 
they  are  just  emerging  from  the  dense  darkness  of 
heathenism,  and  with  a  succession  of  calamities,  they 
have  been  ill  prepared  to  learn. 

"The   afflictions   the   missionaries  were  called  to 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  307 

endure,  and  the  hostile  demonstrations  of  some  of 
the  Indians,  prevented  tlie  former  from  visiting  ^lill 
Lac.  They  still  call  to  us  for  help ;  and,  if  possible,  a 
missionary  should  be  appointed  among  them.  Brother 
Spates  is  inclined  to  go  there  next  fall  if  it  is  in 
accordance  -^-ith  the  will  of  the  appointing  power. 

"FoxD  DU  Lac  has  been  unoccupied  the  last  year; 
but  there  are  important  reasons  why  this  station 
should  be  reoccupied.  About  four  hundred  Indians 
are  now  there,  and  their  number  will,  doubtless,  be 
much  increased  soon,  if  the  Government  succeeds  in 
coaxinfj  the  Indians  that  way.  We  have  a  tolerable 
mission-house  and  garden  well  inclosed,  and  a  log- 
house,  which  with  small  expense  could  be  finished  off. 
This  would  be  comfortable  for  school  and  meetings. 

"Eagle  Riyer  Mission — W^n.  Benson,  Mission- 
arij. — The  work  here  is  among  the  copper  mines,  and 
has  been  prospered  the  past  year.  From  tvrelve,  the 
membership  has  increased  to  forty-two.  The  appro- 
priation from  the  Missionary  Society  was  one  hundred 
dollars.  The  brethren  and  friends  there  have  sent 
you  back  sixfri  dollars,  missionary  collection,  and 
nobly  sustained  their  missionary  and  his  family.  A 
flourishing  Sabbath  school  is  kept  up  at  the  Cliff 
Mine.  A  church  has  been  built,  which  we  use;  but 
it  is  owned  by  the  Pittsburg  and  Boston  Company. 
The  work  here  is  greatly  enlarging,  and  will  need 
next  year  two  missionaries.  Thus  the  people  tvlio 
were  not  a  jyeojyle,  have  become  the  people  of  God. 
Our  quarterly  meeting  at  the  Cliff,  a  short  time  since, 


308  LIGHTS  AXD  SHADES  OF 

was  a  most  blessed  season.  Seldom  have  I  witnessed 
a  more  deeplj-impressive  meeting,  especially  the  love- 
feast.  Our  hearts  were  strangely  warmed  while  we 
listened  to  the  heart-felt  exj)erience  of  our  brethren 
from  across  the  Atlantic.  Five  joined  us  on  the 
occasion. 

''  OxTOXAGOX  Missiox — E.  E.  JDay^  Ilissionari/. — 
This  is  one  of  the  most  prominent  points  on  the  Lake 
It  has  about  twenty  mines,  which  make  the  mouth 
of  the  river  of  this  name  their  dejjot.  Other  mines 
will  be  constantly  opening.  This  section  is  superior 
to  almost  all  others  about  the  Lake  for  fine  agricul- 
tural land.  From  its  natural  resources  it  is  capable 
of  supporting  a  dense  population.  It  must  and  will 
be  occupied.  It  forms  already  a  large  and  laborious 
circuit.  The  missionary  has  traveled  afoot  round  a 
circuit  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  or  one  hundred  and 
seventy  miles,  once  in  four  weeks — in  winter  on  snow- 
shoes,  and  in  summer  over  trails,  wading  often  in 
water  knee-deep,  annoyed  by  flies  and  musketoes, 
enduring  all  the  fatigues  of  the  most  severe  physical 
labor.  It  was  an  experiment  to  send  a  man  there 
last  fall,  not  knowing  where  he  was  to  take  shelter, 
or  whether  he  would  be  sustained;  but,  with  one 
hundred  dollars'  appropriation  from  the  Missionary 
Society,  the  people  have  generously  given  him  his 
support.  There  is  now  work  in  this  field  ample  for 
two  men,  if  they  could  be  sustained.  We  have  twelve 
members.  I  might  say  many  more  things  about  the 
station  among  the  miners,  but  it  would  extend  my 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  309 

report  to  an  undue  length.  I  will  simply  say  tliat 
Eagle  River  mission  is  the  first  branch  from  the 
Ke w aw enon  mission;  Onionago7i  is  the  second  branch 
from  the  same  stem;  Carp  River ^  among  the  iron 
mines,  will,  we  hope,  next  year  constitute  its  third 
branch.  Thus  it  will  be  se-en  that  Providence  has 
been  accomplishing  an  important  work  by  means  of 
our  Indian  mission  at  Kewawenon.  The  Lord's  name 
have  all  the  praise!" 

Several  scattering  mines  in  the  vicinity  of  Portage 
Lake  had  recommenced  work  with  flattering  prospects 
of  success.  An  additional  field  was  here  opening, 
inviting  the  missionary  to  new  toils  and  successes. 

As  evidences  of  the  general  prosperity  of  the  work 
in  the  district  the  following  statistics  will  speak  for 
themselves :  We  numbered  6  Sunday  schools,  32  offi- 
cers and  teachers,  170  scholars,  560  volumes  in  li- 
brary, 2  Bible  classes;  raised  $26.38  to  defray  ex- 
penses of  schools,  and  §15  for  benevolent  purposes. 
■Seventeen  Sunday  School  Advocates  were  taken.  One 
conversion  connected  with  this  department.  For  the 
missionary  cause  there  was  raised  §106.81,  a  falling 
off  here  of  §42.04  from  the  previous  year. 

The  Indian  membership  returned  to  conference  was 
one  hundred  and  seventeen — two  less  than  the  pre- 
vious year,  owing  to  falling  off  at  Fond  du  Lac,  Sandy 
Lake,  and  Eewawenon.  Among  the  white  population 
there  was  an  increase  of  forty-eight,  and  one  local 
preacher  over  the  previous  year.  Total  white  mem- 
bers, ninety-two. 


,^10  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

With  all  the  mutations  above  stated  we  think  tho 
reader  will  perceive  unmistakable  evidences  of  pros- 
perity as  connected  with  the  missions  of  Lake  Su- 
perior. If  there  were  fluctuations  in  the  Church,  the 
same  may  be  said  of  the  state  of  society  outside  of 
the  Church;  the  one  is  sufficient  to  account  for  the 
other.  "The  wilderness  and  the  solitary  place"  was 
gladdening,  and  "the  desert"  was  beginning  "to  blos- 
som as  the  rose."  Toward  the  close  of  the  summer 
of  1851  our  missionaries  at  Sandy  Lake  were  again 
sorely  afflicted.  The  following  account  is  taken  from 
one  of  my  reports  published  in  the  Missionary  Ad- 
vocate : 

'^Sanely  Lake  and  3IiU  Lac. — In  the  latter  part 
of  the  summer  the  scarlet  fever  broke  out  here,  and 
among  the  victims  of  its  rage  were  the  children  of 
the  Rev.  S.  Spates,  the  missionary.  Brother  Spates 
writes,  that,  for  a  time,  it  was  doubtful  whether  they 
would  live  or  die.  'But,'  he  says,  'God  had  mercy 
on  us,  lest  we  should  have  sorrow  upon  sorrow.' 
This  letter  was  dated  July  29th.  He  writes  again, 
August  9th :  '  Our  health  has  greatly  improved  since 
my  hist:  still  the  little  girl,  Imogen,  is  not  well;  her 
neck  is  much  swollen.  I  was  quite  sick  for  about 
tAvo  weeks  with  sore  throat.'  It  seems  that  nearly 
all  the  white  people  were  similarly  affected.  Let  it  be 
remembered  that  while  those  missionaries  are  thus 
attacked  with  the  most  fatal  diseases,  tJici/  are  more 
than  two  Jamdred  miles  distant  from  the  aid  of  a 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  311 

physician!  The  few  deaths  that  have  occurred  among 
the  missionaries  about  Lake  Superior,  during  the  Last 
sixteen  years,  either  from  disease  or  accident,  is 
striking  evidence  of  Divine  interposition." 

26 


312  LIGHTS   AIs^D   SHADES   OF 


CHAPTEE    XXII. 

TRAVELS   AND    MISSIONARY   EFFORTS   IN    THE 
WINTER    OF    1851-2. 

The  Michigan  annual  conference  had  once  more 
been  in  session,  and  the  preachers  had  repaired  to 
their  various  fields  of  labor  and  responsibility.  Once 
more,  in  company  "with  several  other  missionaries,  ^'O 
■were  on  our  Tvay  to  the  Saut.  As  "we  -were  borne 
along  on  the  bosom  of  the  deep  the  following  note 
■was  penned: 

"We  are  just  about  to  enter  upon  our  work  for 
another  year.  There  is  much  in  the  past  to  humble 
us — our  want  of  devotedness  to  God — our  Tvant  of 
usefulness.  0  for  a  fresh  baptism  from  heaven  for 
the  work!  <Not  by  might  nor  by  power,  but  by  my 
Spirit,  saith  the  Lord  of  hosts.' 

'  Give  us  thy  strength,  thou  God  of  power, 
Then  let  winds  blow  or  thunders  roar.' 

AH  will  be  well  if  God  be  with  us." 

After  our  arrival,  the  missionaries  bound  for  Lake 
Superior  were,  for  some  time,  detained  mth  us  till 
they  could  leave  for  their  respective  fields.  Some  of 
the  time  we  had  ten  besides  our  own  family  under  our 
roof.     After  a  lapse  of  more  than  two  weeks,  all  had 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  313 

left  except  brotlier  Marksman  and  family,  whose 
appointment  was  to  the  Fond  du  Lac  mission. 

Vrord  just  now  reached  us  of  the  wreck  of  the 
Monticello.  on  the  rocky  coast  between  Eagle  river 
and  the  Ontonagon ;  providentially,  no  lives  were  lost. 
But  this  disaster  tended  greatly  to  derange  business 
about  the  Lake.  Owing  to  this,  brother  Marksman 
was  detained  for  the  winter,  which  he  spent  at  Naom- 
ikong.  This  was,  in  the  end,  providential,  as  the 
interpreter  for  this  station,  whose  residence  was  near 
Saginaw,  did  not  arrive.  To  have  been  left  in  this 
condition  our  mission  must  have  suffered  greatly.  I 
may  as  well  add  here,  that  circumstances  did  not  jus- 
tify brother  M.'s  leaving  in  the  spring  for  Fond  du 
Lac;  that  post  was,  consequently,  not  reoccupied. 

About  the  middle  of  October  I  accompanied  brother 
Marksman  and  his  family  to  Kaomikong.  A  day  was 
spent  in  procuring  lumber  to  add  to  our  mission  im- 
provements. Sabbath  day  was  filled  up  with  relig- 
ious exercises.  Monday,  assisted  by  only  one  man,  I 
sailed  home  in  the  large  batteau  in  which  we  had 
boated  up  supplies  to  the  mission.  "We  arrived  be- 
fore three  o'clock,  P.  M.,  highly  favored  with  such  a 
fine  run. 

The  Episcopal  missionary.  Rev.  Mr.  Anderson,  who 
had  been  stationed  at  Garden  river,  Canada  "West, 
had  left.  The  "Wesleyan  Methodist  Missionary  So- 
ciety sent  a  very  active  and  devoted  man.  Rev.  Mr. 
M'Dougall,  to  this  plac^,  taking  into  his  field  the 
Bruce   Mine.     Brother   M'D.   was   not   an  ordained 


314  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

preacher,  and  had  solicited  my  aid  in  administering 
the  ordinances  to  his  people,  which  was  cheerfully 
rendered,  and  for  which,  in  return,  we  received  val- 
uable help  from  him.  It  was  exceedingly  gratifying 
to  have  such  a  neighbor  in  the  mission  field. 

On  the  31st  of  December  I  went,  with  my  family,  to 
Garden  river,  to  aid  brother  M'D.  in  holding  a  watch 
meeting.  It  was  a  season  of  interest  and  profit. 
During  its  progress  I  had  the  privilege  of  baptizing 
an  infant  of  the  missionaries,  and  administering  the 
sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper  to  the  Indian  mem- 
bership and  others.  Sugar  Island  here  forms  the 
American  shore  of  the  Ste.  Marie's  river.  Some 
two  miles  below,  on  this  island,  is  the  residence  of 
Mr.  S.  P.  Church,  who,  with  his  excellent  lady,  be- 
longed to  the  Congregational  Church  at  Detroit.  Mr. 
Church  is  making  a  fortune  here  at  farming  and 
making  raspberry  jamb,  out  of  this  delicious  fruit, 
which  grows  so  abundantly  in  all  that  region.  While 
at  Garden  river  we  had  a  delightful  visit  with  this 
Christian  family,  who  accompanied  us  on  the  2d  of 
January  to  Rev.  Mr.  M'Dougall's,  where  I  adminis- 
tered the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper  to  a  little 
group  of  eight  persons — all  white  but  one.  In  those 
delightful  services  we  had  proof  not  only  of  the  unity 
of  Methodism,  but  of  the  essential  unity  of  Chris- 
tians of  every  name. 

Early  in  January  I  visited  again  the  station  at 
Naomikong.  I  employed  a  cutter  to  carry  me  to 
Waishkees  Bay;  thence  walked  to  the  saw-mill.     It 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  315 

was  a  fatiguing  Tralk  of  four  hours  and  a  lialf.  On 
the  way  I  himed  one  of  my  knees  badly,  and  became 
much  exhausted.  I  was  kindly  entertained  at  Mrs. 
P.'s.  But  when  I  sat  down  to  the  supper  table,  I 
became  so  faint  that  I  had  to  go  out  in  the  open  air. 
I  finally  took  some  refreshment,  and,  after  a  good 
night's  rest,  was  all  right,  except  the  lameness. 

Friday,  9th,  my  brother  J.,  who  was  then  at  the 
mill,  accompanied  me  to  the  mission.  "VVe  had  meet- 
ins:  at  nin-ht — a  <Tood  reli^-ious  feelinsi;  seemed  to 
prevail.  The  ice  had  but  recently  formed,  and  most 
of  the  Indians  were  engaged  in  fishing  on  Satur- 
day. At  night  we  had  preaching  again.  The  word 
was  heard  attentively.  Our  meetings  on  Sabbath 
were  well  attended,  and  generally  spiritual.  On  Mon- 
day, accompanied  by  J.  0.,  I  walked  to  Waishkees 
Bay,  via  the  saw-mill.  By  this  time  my  lame  knee 
was  quite  stiff.  I  took  a  short  rest  here  and  some 
refreshment;  walked  on  about  an  hour  more,  and 
met  W.  J.,  who  had  come  after  me  with  horse  and 
cutter.  It  was  six  o'clock,  P.  M.,  when  we  reached 
home.  Having  no  overcoat  with  me,  I  became  much 
chilled  from  riding  in  the  cold. 

TKIP   TO   THE   BRUCE   MIXE. 

Thursday,  February  19th,  I  left  the  Saut  to  accom- 
pany brother  M'Dougall  to  the  Bruce  Mine,  Canada. 
The  day  was  fine.  After  about  four  hours  walking 
we  reached  Garden  river.  Here  I  preached  at  night, 
and  administered  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper. 


816  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

After  the  meeting  I  went  with  brother  Church  to  his 
residence  on  Sugar  Island,  and  spent  the  night  with 
his  kind  family. 

Friday,  20th,  about  eight  o'clock,  A.  M.,  brother 
M'Dougall  came  along  with  an  Indian  pony  and 
cutter.  We  had  another  fine  day,  but  the  going  was 
hard.  The  upper  crust  was  not  sufficient  to  bear, 
which  made  it  slow  and  fatiguing  work  for  the  pony. 
We  went  about  ten  miles,  and  stopped  at  an  Indian 
shanty  to  feed  and  take  a  lunch.  We  then  traveled 
about  eight  miles  farther,  and  put  up  for  the  night 
with  Belonzha,  a  Frenchman.  We  should  have  rested 
comfortably  but  for  two  things — our  bedstead  was  too 
short  and  the  covering  light.  Saturday,  about  half- 
past  one  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  had  reached  the  Bruce 
Mine,  after  a  cold  ride  of  eighteen  miles — wind  strong 
in  our  faces  all  the  time.  We  were  cordially  wel- 
comed, and  every  attention  bestowed  upon  us  to 
render  us  comfortable. 

At  night  we  had  an  interesting  and  profitable  tem- 
perance meeting,  well  attended.  Brother  M'Dougall 
offered  the  following  resolution,  to  which  he  spoke  at 
some  length  and  with  good  efi'ect: 

'^ Resolved,  That  the  temperance  cause  is  the  cause 
of  humanity,  and  deserves  the  support  of  every  phi- 
lanthropist, and  especially  of  every  Christian." 

I  seconded  the  resolution,  and  spoke  at  some  length 
and  with  much  freedom.  Twenty-two  signed  the 
pledge  of  total  abstinence,  and  several  others  prom- 
ised  to    do   the    same.      Great   attention   was    paid 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  317 

tlirougliout  the  meeting  to  what  was  said.  No  op- 
position was  offered  to  any  thing  except  by  a  Scotch- 
man, the  pedagogue  of  the  village.  On  being  asked 
to  sign  the  pledge,  he  replied,  "I  am  not  going  to  do 

any  thing  to  hurt  my ,"  alias,  stomach. 

Sunday,  22d,  was  a  gracious  day  to  the  people  of 
Bruce  Mine.  The  small  class,  consistinsr  of  seven 
members,  met  together  before  preaching ;  and  a  melt- 
ing time  it  was  to  those  present.  At  half-past  ten 
o'clock  I  had  the  privilege  of  preaching  to  a  very 
attentive  congregation.  I  felt  that  the  word  of  God 
was  not  bound.  At  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  met 
again.  I  baptized  five  children.  The  congregation 
was  larger  than  in  the  morning,  to  whom  brother 
M'Dougall  preached  a  good  sermon  from  Matthew 
xvi,  26.  Preaching  was  followed  by  the  love-feast — 
another  time  of  heavenly  influence.  One  female  con- 
fessed her  sins  and  cried  aloud  to  God  for  mercy.  A 
backslider  who  had  fallen,  through  strong  drink,  and 
who  had  signed  the  pledge  the  evening  before,  con- 
fessed his  wanderings,  and  was  resolved  to  return  to 
God.  I  saw  some  weeping  who  did  not  speak.  At 
night  the  congregation  was  larger  than  it  had  been 
before,  and  was  deeply  solemn  and  attentive  while 
I  strove  again  to  proclaim  the  truth  of  God.  After- 
ward we  partook  of  the  eucharist  together,  during 
which  we  felt  that  the  Lord  of  the  feast  was  present 
to  sup  with  us.  There  appeared  among  the  little 
few  much  of  the  revival  spirit,  and  we  saw  no  reason 
why  a  good  revival  would  not  be  the  result  of  a  little 


318  LIGHTS   AIsD   SHADES   OF 

extra  effort.     I  hope  ever  to  retain  in  my  remem 
brance  the  seasons  of  heavenly  communion  I  enjoyed 
with  our  English  brethren  at  the  Bruce  Mine. 

Monday  afternoon  we  left  the  Bruce  Mine — wind 
in  our  face.  ^Ye  reached  the  Frenchman's,  where  we 
spent  the  night.  Tuesday  was  a  snowy  and  stormy 
day.  The  wind  blew  hard,  and  snow  fell  so  thick  as 
at  times  to  darken  our  prospect.  We  returned  by 
the  way  of  Hay  Lake — a  route  different  from  tlie 
one  we  went — and  reached  Little  Kapids  by  one 
o'clock,  P.  M.,  where  we  fed  our  horse  and  got  some- 
thing to  eat.  At  three  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  had  reached 
home  in  safety.  In  the  evening  brother  M.  left  us 
for  his  horde  at  Garden  river.  The  followino;  night 
was  exceedingly  stormy.  The  next  morning  our 
door-yard  was  nearly  filled  with  the  drifting  snow, 
and  the  storm  still  increasing.  It  was  reason  for 
thankfulness  that  we  were  not  exposed  to  the  pelting 
storm. 

Thursday,  March  11th,  Rev.  Mr.  M'Dougall  and 
his  interpreter  arrived  at  our  place,  to  accompany 
me  to  Naomikong.  Pie  preached  to  our  people  at 
night.  Friday  we  took  a  horse  and  cutter,  and  set 
out  on  our  journey.  The  snow  .and  water  on  the 
ice  rendered  it  very  bad  going,  and  we  were  forced 
to  walk  much  of  the  way.  At  ten  o'clock  at  night 
we  reached  the  saw-mill,  twenty-eight  miles.  Mr. 
P.'s  family  were  in  bed,  but  arose  and  got  us  some 
refreshment,  and  kindly  entertained  us.  Saturday 
we  walked  the  rest  of  the  way;  had  very  wet  feet 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  319 

from  constantly  breaking  tliroiigli  the  upper  crust. 
Most  of  the  day  Tvas  spent  in  visiting  the  Indians. 
At  nisrht  brother  Blaker — brother  jNI'Dou^iraU's  inter- 
preter — preached  to  the  Indians.  The  meeting  was 
well  attended,  and  all  seemed  interested.  Sabbath 
morning  Tve  had  a  precious  love-feast,  at  the  close  of 
which  four  united  with  the  society  on  trial.  Brother 
M'Dougall  preached  afterward  from  Isaiah  xlv,  22. 
His  sermon  was  listened  to  by  the  Indians  with 
marked  attention.  This  was  followed  by  the  sacra- 
ment of  the  Lord's  supper.  Brother  M'D.  preached 
asain  at  nisrht;  after  which  seekers  of  reli;]^ion  were 
invited  forward  for  prayers.  Nine  came,  and  among 
them  three  of  the  mission  boys.  Two  or  three  pro- 
fessed to  have  received  comfort.  One  Catholic  Indian 
came,  and  said  that  he  was  now  convinced  of  his 
error.  One  young  man  in  the  congregation  was 
much  affected,  but  did  not  venture  forward.  He 
kneeled  down  and  prayed  where  he  was. 

Monday  we  left  the  mission,  and  walked  to  the 
mill.  Here  we  got  some  refreshments  and  dried  our 
wet  moccasins.  We  now  left  the  mill,  and  rode  about 
two  miles,  when  it  commenced  to  storm  terribly — for- 
tunately it  was  on  our  backs.  The  horse  got  along 
so  tardily  that  we  left  it  with  brother  B.,  and  brother 
M'D.  and  myself  went  on  foot,  till  we  reached  Waish- 
kees  Bay,  a  little  before  night.  Our  moccasins  and 
pants,  from  the  knees  down,  were  thickly  crusted  over 
witli  ice,  from  constant  wading,  and  became  quite  cum- 
bersome.    But  we  had  a  irood  meeting  here  with  the 

27 


320 


LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 


Indians  at  night,  and  were  comfortably  entertained. 
Tuesday  the  ice  bore  up  the  horse  well,  and  we  rode 
most  of  the  way  to  the  Saut,  which  we  reached  about 
noon.  While  those  missionary  exchanges  were  most 
agreeable  to  all  concerned,  they  exerted  a  quickenino- 
influence  on  our  mission  stations  on  both  sides  of  the 
line  which  divided  the  two  governments. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  321 


CHAPTER   XXIII. 

REVIVAL  AT  THE  SAUT  — THE  INEBRIATE- 
MELANCHOLY  CASUALTY. 

During  the  fall  and  early  part  of  the  -^N'mter  the 
prospect  at  the  Saut  cle  Ste.  ^larie  seemed  dark  and 
unpromising.  The  sacredness  of  the  holy  Sabbath 
vras  often  violated  by  the  arrival  and  departure  of 
boats,  and  the  tumult  and  business  -which  ensued. 
As  a  specimen,  on  the  9th  of  November  three  steam- 
ers left  for  the  lower  ports,  two  American  and  one 
British.  Sometimes  those  arrivals  and  departures 
were  just  about  the  hour  of  public  worship,  and  made 
our  congregations  fluctuating.  But  "the  sound  of 
the  church-going  bell"  faithfully  warned  the  people 
of  the  hour  of  prayer,  and  a  constant  use  of  the 
stated  public  means  of  grace  was  as  a  beacon-light 
amid  the  surrounding  darkness. 

Our  winter  commenced  quite  early.  By  the  16th 
of  ISTovember  snow  was  several  inches  deep,  and 
sleighing  good.  November  27th  was  the  day  set 
apart  for  thanksgiving  by  the  Governor  of  the  state. 
It  was  arranged  to  have  a  sermon  on  the  occasion. 
One  of  our  steamers  advertised  to  leave  at  twelve 
o'clock,  M.,  which,  as  in  many  other  instances,  made 
our  attendance  at  Church  small. 


322  LIGHTS  AND   SHADE  S  OF 

Our  last  mail  for  the  fall  arrived  the  sanie  day 
on  the  steamer  London. 

As  the  winter  progressed  things  became  more  set- 
tled, our  congregations  increased,  and  a  religious  in- 
terest began  to  be  manifest  among  the  people.  The 
hand  of  Providence  was  clearly  traceable  in  this 
movement,  and  a  somewhat  particular  account  may 
not  be  unacceptable  to  the  reader. 

In  1832  a  very  gracious  revival  of  religion  broke 
out  here,  under  the  labors  of  Kev.  Mr.  Porter,  of  the 
Congregational  Church,  and  Rev.  A.  Bingham,  the 
resident  Baptist  missionary.  This  vras  confined  mostly 
to  Fort  Brady.  Two  years  after  a  very  precious 
work  again  broke  out  in  the  Fort,  under  the  labors 
of  Rev.  John  Clark,  of  precious  memory.  See  the 
account  given  in  Hall's  Life  of  Rev.  John  Clark, 
pp.  110,  111.  But,  from  numerous  changes  in  the 
army,  if  from  no  other  cause,  no  fruit  of  those  re- 
vivals was  to  be  found  at  the  Saut. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  Saut  we  found  no  class  among 
the  whites.  How  long  before  this  was  the  case  I  can 
not  say.  We  need  not  wonder  at  this  when  we  re- 
flect that  the  masses  are  Roman  Catholic;  that  the 
few  of  the  nominally-Protestant  population  have  been 
fluctuating,  difi*ering  much  every  season ;  and  that  the 
place  has  been  noted  for  intemperance  and  kindred- 
vices.  It  has  only  been  by  spells  that  half  a  dozen 
praying  persons  of  different  persuasions  could  be 
convened  for  prayer. 

On  returnins:  from  conference  in  the   fall  we  re- 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  323 

solved  to  make  one  more  trial  in  the  strength  of  the 
Lord,  and,  if  no  change  could  be  eflected,  to  recom- 
mend a  discontinuance  of  effort  here.  Notice  was 
given  that  a  prayer  meeting  -would  be  conducted  at 
our  house  every  Thursday  evening,  whether  any  one 
should  meet  with  us  or  not.  If  we  could  do  no 
better  we"  could  make  it  a  family  prayer  meeting. 
These  meetings  were,  accordingly,  strictly  kept  up, 
and,  with  the  exception  of  an  evening  or  two,  for  a 
long  time,  there  was  but  one  person  besides  myself 
and  wife  to  take  part  in  them.  In  the  month  of 
December  Mrs.  M.,  wife  of  one  of  the  sergeants  of 
the  Fort,  became  powerfully  convicted  under  the 
preaching  of  the  word.  She  came  to  the  prayer 
meeting,  but  did  not  make  knovrn  her  feelings.  Her 
convictions  became  deeper,  and  the  sense  of  her  con- 
dition more  alarming  the  more  she  heard  the  Gospel 
preached.  After  attending  two  or  three  of  the  prayer 
meetings  her  exercise  of  mind  became  so  great  that 
she  thought  she  could  attend  them  no  more.  AYhen 
preacliing  one  day  from  2  Peter  i,  5-7,  she  said  that 
her  mind  was  greatly  enlightened.  She  referred  to 
this  as  the  time  when  her  burden  was  removed.  She 
desired  to  converse  with  some  one,  but  dared  not  to 
open  her  mind  to  any  person  previous  to  her  happy 
release.  Now  she  felt  an  indescribable  inward  peace 
and  happiness. 

At  length  she  made  known  her  feelings  to  a  pious 
lady  in  the  place,  and  expressed  a  wish  to  converse 
with   me   on   the   subject.      This   lady   proposed   to 


824  LIGHTS  AXD  SHADES  OF 

mention  it  to  me,  but  Mrs.  M.  wished  Iier  not  to  do 
so.  The  cross  appeared  too  great  for  her  to  make 
an  open  profession. 

At  this  time  I  was  at  Kaomikong.  Measurably 
conquering  her  fears,  she  came  and  told  Mrs.  Pitezel 
the  state  of  her  mind.  On  my  return  I  went  to  see 
her,  and  found  her  in  the  happy  frame  of  mind  before 
described.  She  said,  ''I  am  very  weak,  but  I  hang 
upon  Jesus,  from  whom  I  derive  continual  support." 
She  read  the  word  of  God  much,  which  was  to  her 
very  precious.  She  immediately  erected  the  family 
altar.  I  found  her  husband  very  serious  as  a  result 
of  his  wife's  conversion.  "What  she  had  already 
experienced  she  said  she  would  not  exchange  for 
all  the  world.  She  wanted  to  tell  to  every  one  what 
the  Lord  had  done  for  her.  "While  speaking  of 
God's  goodness  her  eyes  were  suffused  with  tears, 
and  a  heavenly  joy  seemed  to  light  up  her  counte- 
nance. After  a  truly-edifying  conversation  with  her 
and  her  husband  I  read  a  portion  of  Scripture,  and 
in  prayer  commended  them  to  God. 

An  incident  connected  with  this  conversion  should 
serve  as  a  lesson  to  all  who  preach  the  Gospel.  "We 
are  too  apt  to  judge  of  the  good  eifect  of  preaching 
by  our  own  feelings ;  that  we  accomplish  most  when 
we  have  most  liberty.  In  my  journal  for  that  occa- 
sion I  noted:  "Did  not  preach  with  even  my  usual 
freedom."  Yet  God  ai^proved,  and  this  woman  was 
released  from  the  burden  of  her  sins.  To  him  be 
the  glory! 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  325 

One  evening  I  called  to  see  the  sergeant's  family 
m  the  Fort.  I  found  them  and  iwo  other  soldiers 
surrounding  a  cheerful  fire,  one  of  the  number  read- 
ing Bunyan's  Pilgrim's  Progress — a  book  Mrs.  P. 
had  loaned  them — and  the  rest  listening  with  deep 
interest.  Mr.  M.  told  me  that  "he  had  frequently 
formed  vows  to  serve  God,  and  had  broken  them; 
that  he  had  fallen  into  bad  habits,  which  had  strength- 
ened with  his  years ;  that,  in  particular,  he  was  pas- 
sionate, and  often  used  profane  language.  He  was 
now  striving  to  leave  ofi"  all  these.  He  could  not 
muster  courage  to  attempt  to  pray  in  public ;  but  he 
sought  God  in  secret  prayer.''  I  conversed  with  the 
other  two  soldiers,  who  spoke  seriously  and  ration- 
ally on  the  subject,  and  seemed  desirous  to  be  par- 
takers of  this  great  salvation.  They  spoke  of  the 
difiiculty  of  being  Christians  in  the  army — said  that 
"it  was  the  school  of  vice."  I  endeavored  to  show 
them  that  religion  does  not  unfit  us  for  any  neces- 
sary duty  in  the  station  in  which  our  lot  is  cast; 
thut,  on  the  contrary,  it  enabled  us  to  perform  it 
the  better.  This  interview  was  closed  by  reading  a 
chapter  from  the  Holy  Scriptures,  accompanied  by 
prayer.  The  following  was  recorded  at  the  time  in 
my  journal: 

"  Mr.  M.  accompanied  me  when  I  left  to  the  gate 
of  the  Fort,  speaking  all  the  way  about  his  situation. 
Just  as  we  left  the  house  he  exclaimed,  'There  is 
a  great  change  in  that  woman,'  meaning  his  wife. 
What  a  blessed  change  has  this  one  conversion  made 


326  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

m  this  family !  0  for  a  shower  of  grace  to  transform 
this  wicked  village ! 

"  Thursday  nigJit,  22d.  We  have  just  closed  the 
best  prayer  meeting  I  have  ever  attended  at  the 
Saut.  Several  vrere  present  besides -our  own  family, 
and  all  were  induced  to  pray.  Mr.  M.,  husband  of 
the  converted  lady,  prayed  with  humility  and  fer- 
vency. He  has  experienced  a  degree  of  comfort. 
Mr.  R.,  a  soldier,  confessed  the  downward  course  he 
had  been  pursuing,  and  prayed  for  strength  to  live  a 
new  life.  A  woman  prayed  for  God  to  change  her 
wicked  heart,  to  give  her  a  new  heart,  and  make  her 
clean  in  the  blood  of  Christ. 

''  Sabhatli,  2Wi.  Our  meetings  during  the  day  were 
pretty  well  attended.  This  evening  our  prayer  meet- 
ing was  a  blessed  season.  One  backslider  has,  I 
trust,  been  reclaimed.  He  testified  that  he  had  once 
indulged  a  hope  in  Christ,  but  never  came  out  and 
united  with  any  Church.  He  prayed  in  public  to- 
night for  the  first  time,  and  prayed  and  spoke  very 
feelingly.  Mrs.  R.  testified  that  for  a  long  time  she 
had  read  her  Bible  and  prayed,  but  that  she  never 
had  felt  as  she  did  last  Thursday  night  at  the  prayer 
meeting.  After  she  went  home  and  had  retired  to 
rest,  the  words  of  the  hymn  came  into  her  mind, 

'  Come  hither,  soul,  I  am  the  way.' 

She  felt  a  change  in  her  mind  from  that  time." 

The   same    evening   I   organized   a   class   of   ten 
members. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  327. 

"  Thursday,  2^tli.  Wo  liatl  anotlier  blessed  season 
^vitli  the  little  flock  God  has  recently  raised  up  among 
us.  I  read  t*he  General  Rules  of  our  societies.  Then 
we  prayed  round,  and  spoke  with  each  other  respect- 
ing God's  dealings  with  our  souls,  mingling  our  exer- 
cises with  the  songs  of  Zion.  Some  time  ago  we  had 
none  among  us  to  sing ;  now  the  Lord  hath  put  a,  new 
song  into  the  mouth  of  several.  Two  joined  us — 
one  of  these,  a  soldier,  has  been  noted  for  Sabbath- 
breaking.  He  mentioned  one  instance.  I  give  this 
as  an  illustration  of  the  proverb  that  Hlie  tvcuj  of 
the  transgressor  is  hardJ 

''  'Last  spring  early,  while  it  was  yet  cold,  I  took 
my  gun  and  went  out  to  hunt  ducks.  I  went  to  Mr. 
B.,  the  Baptist  missionary,  and  asked  him  for  his 
boat  to  go  down  to"  Little  Rapids,  two  miles  below. 
Mr.  B.  replied,  ''I  am  astonished;  this  is  the  Sab- 
bath." He  endeavored  to  dissuade  me  from  my 
purpose.  I  went  avray  much  ashamed,  but  did  not 
follow  his  advice.  With  my  comrade,  I  succeeded  in 
getting  another  boat.  We  glided  down  the  river 
very  nicely  to  Little  Rapids.  There  we  picked  up 
a  duck  which  I  shot  the  other  day,  but  could  not  get 
for  want  of  a  boat.  We  then  went  among  the  islands 
in  front  of  the  mission.  Here  I  got  thrown  out  of 
the  boat  into  the  water,  whicKwas  exceedingly  cold. 
I  got  into  the  boat  again,  and  crossed  over  to  an 
island,  where  I  made  a  fire,  and  had  to  strip  off  and 
dry  my  clothes.  I  had  on  a  pair  of  new  boots  which 
had  cost  me  four  dollars.     Whiie  drying  my  clothes 


o28  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

I  burned  one  of  tlie  boots,  and  spoiled  it.  Vrith  con- 
siderable difficulty,  as  ^^ell  as  suffering  from  the  cold, 
we  worked  our  way  up  stream,  and  returned  home. 
This  was  the  last  of  my  Sabbath-hunting/ 

"j^Tow,  for  the  first  time,  he  met  with  us.  He 
confessed  what  a  miserable  sinner  he  had  been,  and 
prayed  earnestly  to  God  to  have  mercy  on  him.  He 
stated  that  he  was  much  relieved  before  he  left. 
Thus,  of  late,  at  every  meeting  the  Lord  gives  us 
some  fresh  token  of  his  favor. 

^^  Sabhatli^  February  \.  One  of  the  most  delightful 
days  we  have  had  this  winter.  But,  from  the  severe 
storm  of  the  two  previous  days,  the  snow  was  much 
drifted,  and  the  road,  in  places,  filled.  But  for  all 
this,  our  consreccation  was  much  larsrer  than  usual, 
both  in  the  forenoon  and  afternoon.  In  the  morning 
I  preached  with  an  unction  I  have  seldom  felt  on  the 
"Immutability  of  Chi'ist,"  from  Hebrews  xiii,  8.  In 
the  afternoon  my  subject  was  "God's  Poor,"  from 
James  ii,  5.  I  was  amazingly  blessed  in  trying  lo 
proclaim  the  truth.  Throughout  the  day  there  was 
deep  emotion  evident  in  the  congregation. 

"Before  going  to  the  house  of  worship,  my  soul 
was  much  drawn  out  in  prayer  for  that  faith  by  which 
I  might  preach  with  success.  I  felt  an  uncommon 
struggle  in  prayer,  and  an  assurance  that  I  was  heard 
and  owned  of  God. 

"At  night  our  room  was  comfortably  filled  for 
class  meeting;  and  a  gracious  season  it  was.  "We 
had  several  prayers.     All  spoke,  and  in  nearly  every 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  329 

case  a  great  change  appears  evident.  Two  more 
united  ^yitll  us.  The  Lord's  name  be  glorified  for 
his  boundless  goodness!  IIow  truly  may  it  be  said, 
that  Hlie  people  ivlio  ivere  not  a  people  are  become  the 
jjeople  of  GodP 

Thus  had  the  Lord  wrought  a  very  gracious  work 
among  us,  and  a  class  of  some  fourteen  was  formed. 
It  was  confined  mostly  to  the  Fort.  The  sergeant's 
quarters  became  a  house  of  prayer.  Here  the  other 
soldiers  who  were  seriously  inclined  were  accustomed 
to  meet  every  morning  before  breakfast  for  prayer. 
Five  of  the  persons  thus  brought  in  were  of  the 
native  or  mixed  population.  It  was  not  for  us  to 
predict  how"  far  this  might  tend  to  a  permanent  es- 
tablishment of  religious  society  in  the  place.  At  all 
events  we'  felt  to  say  that,  "as  long  as  souls  are 
converted  and  saved  we  rejoice,  yea,  and  will  rejoige!" 

THE    INEBRIATE. 

Toward  the  close  of  February  we  had  extreme  cold 
-weather,  frequent  hard  wind,  and  driving  snow-storms. 
The  night  of  the  28th  had  been  of  this  character. 
About  three  o'clock  of  the  same  night  we  were  awalvT 
ened  by  a  rapping  at  the  door.  It  was  a  Garden 
River  Indian,  who  had  become  intoxicated,  and  the 
only  wonder  -was  that  he  had  not  perished  in  the  cold. 
He  had  lost  his  cap,  was  covered  with  snow,  and  was 
much  chilled.  I  took  him  into  the  kitchen,  built  a 
good  fire,  gave  him  a  blanket,  and  told  him  to  wrap 
up  and  go  to  sleep.     I  left  a  light  burning  and  retired 


830  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

to  rest  again,  but  I  had  scarcely  gotten  in  bed  before 
be  began  to  knock  at  the  door  separating  our  apart- 
ments, and  calling  out,  Xee-je,  nee-je,  that  is,  friend^ 
friend.  I  told  him  he  must  lie  down  and  be  quiet, 
or  I  could  not  keep  him.  He  laid  him  doTrn  again, 
and,  for  some  time,  sung  as  drunken  Indians  usually 
do,  till  at  length  he  fell  asleep.  In  the  morning  we 
gave  him  a  warm  breakfast  and  a  hat,  and  sent  him 
off  nearly  sober,  and  quite  comfortable.  He  soon 
came  back  and  returned  the  hat,  having  gotten  a  cap 
at  one  of  the  stores.  The  day  had  not  passed  before 
I  saw  him  staggering  again  in  the  street.  He  was 
ten  miles  from  home,  and  the  following  was  one  of 
the  stormiest  nights  of  the  winter.  "We  were  appre 
hensive  that  he  would  perish,  but  he  reached  home 
without  serious  injury,  except  that  inflicted  by  drunk- 
enness itself — injury  enough  surely.  Had  we  not 
taken  him  in  the  night  before  he  would,  in  all  prob- 
ability, have  perished.  Such  are  the  tender  mercies 
of  this  miserable  business !  What  is  human  life  when 
offset  against  the  cupidity  of  the  liquor-dealer  ?  A 
small  matter  surely. 

MELAXCnOLT    CASUALTY. 

Wednesday,  28th  of  April,  a  sad  event  occurred 
at  the  head  of  the  Portage,  connected  with  the  launch- 
ing of  the  steamer  Baltimore.  Several  persons  were 
at  work  at  the  capstan,  which  was  placed  on  the  end 
of  one  of  the  docks.  The  beam  by  which  the  capstan 
was  turned,  by  horse   power,  broke,   and  flew  back 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  331 

suddenly,  instantly  killing  two  men,  seriously  wound- 
ing two  others,  slightly  injuring  the  fifth;  the  sixth 
in  the  group,  when  he  heard  the  beam  crack,  dropped 
instantly,  and  it  passed  over  him  without  harm.  The 
survivors  all  soon  recovered.  One  of  the  unfortunate 
men  killed  was  a  Catholic,  and  was  here  without 
relatives.  The  other  left  a  wife  and  five  children  to 
mourn  his  loss.  He  was  said  to  be  daringly  wicked, 
and  amende  his  last  utterances  was  the  heaven-insult- 
ing  oath.  I  was  requested  to  preach  the  funeral  of 
this  man  the  next  Sabbath,  but  this  arrangement  was 
soon  after  changed,  and  I  was  called  on  Friday,  a  few 
minutes-  before  the  time,  and  requested  to  preach 
immediately.  So  with  scarcely  any  preparation  1 
went  to  the  school-house,  which  was  soon  thronged. 
I  spoke  with  great  plainness,  about  twenty-five  min- 
utes, from  the  words,  "Because  there  is  wrath,  beware 
lest  He  take  thee  away  with  his  stroke:  and  then 
a  irreat  ransom  shall  not  deliver  thee."    Job  xxxvi,  18. 

"How  shocking  must  thy  summons  be,  0  death, 
To  him  that  is  at  ease  in  his  possessions, 
Who,  counting  on  long  years  of  pleasure  here, 
Is  quite  unfurnished  for  the  world  to  come  I" 


832  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 

ANNUAL   TOUR. 

The  following  record  was  made  in  my  journal, 
Tuesday,  May  25tli: 

"I  have  been  for  some  time  making  preparations 
to  visit  our  missions  above.  The  Algonquin  for 
about  two  weeks  has  been  advertised  to  go  to  Fond 
du  Lac,  and  I  had  concluded  to  go  on  her.  Satur- 
day evening  she  took  on  her  last  barrel  of  freight. 
The  captain  said  that  if  the  wind  should  be  fair,  of 
which  he  thought  there  was  every  appearance,  he 
should  leave  the  next  day.  Sabbath.  I  told  him  that 
he  had  better  hold  on  till  Monday;  but  that,  if  he 
must  go,  he  need  not  expect  me  to  accompany  him, 
though  it  would  add  some  hundreds  of  miles  to  my 
coasting.  I  told  him,  however,  that  I  thought  he 
would  be  here  on  Monday — that  I  should  pray  for 
head  wind  if  he  attempted  to  go.  He  said  that  he 
would  pray  for  fair  vnnd,  and  we  would  see  who 
w^ould  be  answered. 

"  Sabbath  proved  to  be  a  lovely  day — calm  nearly 
all  day ;  part  of  the  time  a  fair  breeze,  but  not  enough 
to  spread  sails ;  part  of  the  day  quite  a  breeze  ahead, 
so  that  the  captain  did  not  move  from  the  spot.  Mon- 
day all  day  wind  blew  strong  ahead.     This  morning 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  333 

wind  fair,  the  captain  got  off,  and  lias  no  doubt  made 
a  f^ood  run ;  but  I  am  not  with  him.  Having  been  so 
much  longer  detained  than  I  anticipated,  I  can  not 
visit  Fond  du  Lac,  Sandy  Lake,  and  all  the  other 
places  in  the  round,  and  get  back  for  our  camp  meet- 
ing. I  have,  therefore,  arranged  my  business  with 
brother  Spates  at  Sandy  Lake  by  letter  communica- 
tion. Tl\ere  is  nothing  of  sufficient  importance  to 
call  me  to  Fond  du  Lac,  as  we  have  no  missionary 
there.  I  shall,  therefore,  the  Lord  willing,  visit  the 
missions  among  the  miners,  which  are  assuming  prom- 
inence and  importance,  and  tl^p  Kewawenon  mission. 
In  all  this  I  believe  I  am  directed  by  Providence.  It 
will  save  the  Missionary  Society  about  seventy  dol- 
lars and  myself  about  five  hundred  miles  of  coasting; 
will  give  me  ample  time  to  spend  among  the  missions 
about  the  Lake,  and  I  doubt  not  more  good  will  be 
accomplished  than  if  I  had  gone  to  Sandy  Lake.  It 
is  also  probable  that  by  this  time  our  General  con- 
ference has  set  off  Sandy  Lake  into  another  con- 
ference." 

The  steamer  Baltimore  was  just  about  to  make 
her  first  trip  up  Lake  Superior.  On  the  evening 
of  the  25th  I  went  aboard,  bound  for  Kewawenon. 
Here  we  found  ourselves  very  comfortably  situated. 
Our  boat  had  excellent  accommodations,  and  every 
thing  was  conducted  in  a  quiet  and  orderly  manner; 
not  crowded  with  passengers — day  delightful — almost 
a  dead  calm.  I  busied  myself  during  this  pleasant 
trip  in  reading  the  doings  of  our  General  conference, 


334  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

which  I  had  up  to  the  12th  inst.,  and  in  perusing 
Larrabee's  Evidences  of  i^Tatural  and  Revealed  Relics- 

o 

ion,  which  work  I  read  with  much  interest.  I  could 
but  contrast,  thankfully,  the  agreeableness  of  this 
voyage  with  the  rough  and  perilous  one  made  over 
the  same  route  on  the  Fur  Trader,  in  1846.  At  four 
o'clock,  P.  M.,  the  26th  inst.,  we  were  opposite  the 
Pictured  Pvocks.  It  was  at  this  time  that  we  had 
such  a  sublime  view  of  this  great  natural  curiosity, 
delineated  in  another  place. 

Just  after  dark  we  reached  Carp  river,  now  Mar- 
quette, where  we  stopped  about  half  an  hour.  Had 
just  time  to  go  ashore  and  see  our  missionary,  brother 
Benson,  and  wife,  whom  I  found  well  and  in  good 
spirits. 

Thursday  morning,  about  six  o'clock,  we  anchored 
at  the  mouth  of  Portage  river,  where  we  were  de- 
tained most  of  the  day.  Just  before  night  we  reached 
the  Kewawenon  mission.  Found  all  in  usual  health. 
Sister  Barnum  still  lingered  on  the  shore  of  time, 
to  the  astonishment  of  every  body.  For  five  or  six 
years  wasting  disease  had  been  feehng  after  her  heart- 
strings, but  her  time  had  not  yet  come.  As  the 
gentle  disappearing  of  the  unclouded  sun  such  was 
to  be  her  exit  from  this  world  of  conflict  and  pain.'^ 

Temporally  things  looked  flourishing  about  the 
mission — never  more  so.  Spiritually  some  of  the 
old  members  had  recently  proved  unfaithful  to  the 


*  Since  tliis  she  and  her  hxisbancl  have  both  left  the  -world  in  triumiih. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  335 

trust  committed  to  them;  by  falling  into  kno^rn  and 
open  sin  they  had  brought  reproach  upon  the  cause 
of  Christ.  The  boat  also  brought  trouble  among  us 
.by  furnishing  liquor  to  some  Indians,  who  became 
intoxicated  in  a  short  time.  No  tongue  can  tell  th^ 
evils  arising  from  this  one  source  at  our  missions. 
Their  name  is  legion.  But  that  the  mission  through 
the  year  had  been  blessed  with  a  good  degree  of 
religious  prosperity  is  evident  from  brother  Barnum's 
report,  published  in  the  Missionary  Advocate,  dated 
January  1,  1852,  as  follows  : 

'•'TO    THE    CORRESPONDING    SECRETARY: 

''  Dear  Brother,— Again  would  we  record  the  good- 
ness of  God  for  the  preservation  of  our  lives  through 
another  year  with  thankfulness.  The  past  quarter, 
with  afflictions — an  unusual  amount  of  sickness  among 
the  Indians  and  a  few  deaths — we  have  had  the  Divine 
blessing,  very  much  to  our  encouragement.  The  In- 
dians I  mentioned  in  a  former  communication,  who 
came  among  us  and  had  the  small-pox  last  winter, 
have  again  come  in  from  the  woods,  accompanied 
by  some  of  their  relatives  and  friends.  They  came 
this  time  last  fall  for  the  avowed  purpose  of  taking 
up  their  abode  with  us,  and  becoming  Christians. 
They  have  been  for  several  weeks  listening  with 
marked  attention  to  the  word,  which  has  been 
preached,  mainly,  with  special  reference  to  their  case. 
Now  they  are  members  of  our  Church.  Last  Sab- 
bath they  came — old  and  young — renounced  their 
28 


336  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

heathenism,  and  then  received  Christian  baptism.  1 
baptized  twenty  then,  which,  with  two  previously 
baptized,  makes  twenty-two  the  last  quarter,  nineteen 
of  whom  were  from  the  woods.  Our  congregations 
are  good,  and  our  schools,  both  Sunday  and  week- 
day, though  small,  are  larger  than  they  were  last 
year.  With  our  troubles  we  will  not  trouble  you 
further — for  our  blessings  you  will  help  us  to  praise 
the  Giver. 

"Yours  in  the  Gospel, 

"jSTelsox  BaPvNum." 

The  Indians  referred  to  in  brother  Barnum's  report 
were  from  Laha  Vieux  Desei^t,  distant  some  three 
or  more  days'  march  in  the  wilderness  from  Kewa- 
wenon.  Till  quite  recently  they  had  adhered  to  their 
heathen  customs  and  superstitions;  now  they  were 
(disposed  to  abandon  them  for  the  faith  that  is  in 
Jesus. 

Saturday  and  Sabbath  we  held  our  quarterly  meet- 
ing here — a  season  of  some  interest.  Especially  on 
the  Sabbath  there  was  great  solemnity,  and  much 
deep  feeling  in  the  congregation.  Our  sacramental 
occasion  in  the  afternoon  was  deeply  solemn  and  im- 
pressive. The  meetings  throughout  the  day  afforded 
proof  that  God  was  still  with  our  people  at  Kewa- 
wenon. 

On  Monday  we  had  a  very  tedious  council,  in  which 
sundry  matters,  important  and  unimportant,  were  con- 
sidered.    But  the  details  I  pass  over. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  337 

Tuesday,  June  1st,  I  was  prevented  from  making 
an  early  start  for  Eagle  river  by  rain.  Left  about 
ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  accompanied  by  David  King  and 
N.,  and  readied  Wim-e-te-go-zhenses,  or  the  Little 
Frenchman's,  as  tbis  name  imports,  some  seventeen 
miles  distant,  Tvbere  vre  spent  the  night. 

Wednesday  \;e  were  up  at  three  o'clock,  and  in 
half  an  hour  were  again  on  our  way.  We  break- 
fasted at  the  head  of  Torch  Lake.  Thence  we  walked 
nineteen  miles  to  the  Phoenix  Mine,  where  we  arrived 
at  five  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  were  kindly  entertained 
by  the  missionary,  Kev.  S.  Steele. 

Thursday,  3d,  left  Eagle  river,  on  the  steamer  Bal- 
timore, for  Ontonagon,  where  we  were  anchored  at 
four  o'clock  on  Friday  morning.  The  day  was  spent 
in  business,  making  calls,  etc. 

Saturday,  accompanied  by  the  missionary,  Rev.  E. 
H.  Day,  I  walked  over  the  trail  to  the  Minnesota 
Mine,  where  we  arrived  about  five  o'clock,  P.  M. 
The  trail  was  not  so  wet  as  the  year  before,  but  was 
bad  enough  at  best.  Sabbath  I  preached  twice  to 
the  people,  and  administered  the  sacrament  to  tivo 
persons,  besides  the  preachers.  The  state  of  religion 
at  the  mine  was  low.  There  were  but  five  or  six 
professors  of  religion,  and  some  of  them  were  back- 
ward in  using  the  means  of  grace. 

Monday  we  traveled  over  a  muddy,  rugged,  and 
mountainous  trail,  some  fourteen  miles,  to  the  Trap 
Rock  Mine.  In  our  way  we  passed  the  Forest,  the 
United  States,  the  Cushman,  the  Plummer,  and  Nor- 


338  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

wicli  mines.  Two  of  these  had  been  abandoned,  the 
others  were  encouraged  by  flattering  prospects.  At 
the  Trap  Rock  Rev.  J.  Buzzo,  a  very  intelligent  local 
preacher,  was  agent.  I  preached  at  night  to  some 
fifty  or  sixty  men — quite  a  company  for  such  a  wil- 
derness. 

Tuesday,  8th,  after  a  fatiguing  w^alk  of  about 
eighteen  miles,  over  an  intolerably-muddy  trail,  we 
were  again  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ontonagon.  Preached 
here  at  night.  Yv^ednesday  and  Thursday  I  was  de- 
tained in  waiting  for  a  boat. 

Friday  morning  the  Baltimore  came  in  before  we 
were  up.  About  ten  o'clock  I  left  for  Eagle  river, 
where  we  arrived  at  half-past  five  o'clock,  P.  M. 
Shared  again  brother  Steele's  hospitality. 

Saturday  went  with  brother  Steele  to  the  Cliff.  Met 
at  the  chapel  and  held  our  quarterly  conference. 
Thence  went  to  the  North  American,  where  brother 
Steele  attended  to  the  funeral  obsequies  of  an  un- 
fortunate man,  who  was  killed  the  day  before  by 
falling  into  a  shaft  of  the  South  Cliff,  a  depth  of 
some  forty  feet.  The  poor  man  died — without  leaving 
an  evidence  behind  of  his  conversion — having  in  Eng- 
land a  wife  and  seven  children.  The  funeral  was 
numerously  attended. 

In  the  evening  I  preached  at  the  Cliff  to  a  pretty 
good  attendance.  Sabbath  morning  I  was  taken  quite 
ill  with  diarrhea,  and  felt  indisposed  for  the  labors 
of  the  day.  A  faintness  came  over  me  dunng  the 
love-feast.     I  was  obliged  to  stop  in  the  midst  of  the 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  339 

opening  prayer  before  preaching.  Brotlicr  Steele 
gave  out  the  hymn.  After  singing  I  arose,  not  know- 
ing whether  I  should  be  able  to  preach.  But  the 
Lord  strengthened  me  for  the  work,  and  I  was  en- 
abled to  speak  with  more  than  usual  freedom,  on  the 
cross  of  Christ,  Galatians  vi,  14.  But  in  proceeding 
to  administer  the  sacrament  I  was  barely  able  to  con- 
clude the  consecratory  prayer,  and  was  obliged  to 
call  on  brother  Steele  to  conclude  the  service.  After 
meeting  I  went  to  the  North  American,  where  Dr. 
Senter  gave  me  an  opiate.  His  kind  lady  furnished 
me  with  a  comfortable  bed.  After  two  or  three 
hours'  rest,  and  a  cup  of  tea,  and  a  little  boiled  rice, 
which  I  ate  at  the  Doctor's,  I  felt  much  refreshed. 
With  the  Doctor's  family  I  then  repaired  to  the 
chapel  for  our  evening  meeting.  A  fine  congrega- 
tion came  out,  to  whom  God  gave  me  strength  to 
preach,  with  at  least  usual  freedom.  This  quarterly 
meeting  was,  on  the  whole,  the  best  one  I  had  wit- 
nessed on  Lake  Superior.  When  the  meeting  had 
closed  I  accompanied  the  family  of  brother  Steele 
to  their  residence,  at  the  Phoenix  Mine,  much  fatigued 
of  course.  I  never  felt  more  fully  than  during  this 
day,  of  great  bodily  weakness,  that  Christ  was  mij 
strength.  The  Church  was  quickened  by  this  quar- 
terly meeting,  and  the  effect  did  not  cease  when  the 
meeting  closed.  Reference  is  made  to  this  farther  on. 
Monday  felt  the  effects  of  the  illness  of  Sabbath; 
rested  most  of  the  day,  waiting  the  return  of  the 
Napoleon;   left  on  this  boat  in  the  evening  for  the 


340  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

Saut;  crossed  over  to  Isle  Eoyal,  about  fifty  miles, 
during  tlie  night.  Half  the  day  Tuesday  was  spent  at 
Rock  Harbor,  discharging  freight.  Thence  Avent  to 
Siskowit  Bay,  about  eighteen  miles  T\-est,  where  we 
were  detained  till  after  night.  Returned  to  Rock 
Harbor  again  before  morning.  ^ 

Wednesday,  the  16th,  we  took  our  leave  of  Isle 
Royal,  early  in  the  morning,  and  after  being  in  the 
fog  most  of  the  time  for  two  days,  arrived  safely  at 
the  Saut  Thursday  evening.  What  was  a  little  re- 
markable, we  had  had  no  rough  sea  from  the  time  I 
left  till  my  return.  I  was  hajDpy  to  find  all  weU  at 
home. 

TRIP   TO   CARP   RIVER. 

Friday,  the  25th,  left  the  Saut  in  the  evening  on 
the  propeller  Manhattan,  to  visit  the  mission  at  Mar- 
quette. We  had  a  pleasant  and  quick  passage,  and 
arrived  Saturday  at  noon.  Spent  the  afternoon  in 
making  calls.  Preached  in  the  evening  to  a  pretty 
o-ood  Gono-re cation ,  considerins;  that  they  were  called 
out  without  any  previous  warning. 

Sabbath  morning  our  love-feast  was  a  precious 
season.  An  intelligent  congregation  assembled  at 
half-past  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  to  whom  I  proclaimed 
the  counsel  of  God.  At  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  the  peo- 
ple came  out  again — preached  again,  and  administered 
the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper.  Pelt  liberty 
both  times  in  preaching.  The  congregation  were  not 
only  very  attentive  to  the  word  spoken,  but  several 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  S41 

gave  evidence  of  considerable  emotion.  We  realized 
the  presence  of  God  in  the  breaking  of  bread.  A 
Presbyterian  minister  ^as  present  -^dio  -was  traveling 
for  the  benefit  of  his  health.  He  communed  with  us 
and  aided  in  the  services.  About  thirty  communed. 
In  the  evening  'sve  had  a  prayer  meeting,  in  T\-hich 
several  prayed  with  great  fervency.  God  was  in  the 
midst  to  bless.  Brother  Babb,  the  minister  referred 
tOj  offered  some  very  appropriate  remarks.  Before 
the  meeting  closed  I  spoke  with  reference  to  the 
great  change  God  had  wrought  about  Lake  Superior, 
since  I  had  become  acquainted  with  the  country. 
"  Stated  that,  in  the  fall  of  1844,  I  had  coasted  along 
the  shore,  near  the  place  where  we  were  worshiping, 
with  my  family,  on  our  way  to  Kewawenon;  that,  a 
short  distance  to  the  west,  we  were  wind-bound  two 
days  and  a  half;  that,  at  that  time,  no  traces  of  civili- 
zation were  to  be  seen  where  we  now  are;  and  that, 
from  Saut  Ste.  Marie  to  La  Pointe,  there  was  but  one 
station — Protestant — where  God  was  statedly  wor- 
shiped, in  public,  and  that  one  was  Kewawenon.  I 
stated,  also,  that,  in  January,  184G,  I  passed  on 
snow-shoes  over  the  ground  where  we  now  wor- 
shiped, to  visit  a  band  of  Lidians  at  Grand  Island, 
and  that  then  there  was  no  trace  of  civilization  at 
Carp  river.  Remarked  that  I  could  never  forget  the 
day  of  my  arrival  at  this  place.  I  was  excessively 
fatigued.  My  feet  were  badly  blistered,  and  when  I 
had  reached  the  wigwam  of  3Iah-je-ge-.cJnJc,  1  was  so 
rejoiced  that  tears  involuntarily  crowded  to  my  eyes. 


842  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   01' 

That  I  was  rQiicli  refreshed  on  a  repast  of  small  po- 
tatoes and  fresh  venison.  Now  behold  the  change ! 
We  have  several  congregations  at  Ontonagon,  who 
delight  to  worship  God.  On  Point  Kewenaw  there 
are  several  interesting  congregations.  Stated  that, 
two  weeks  before,  I  had  enjoyed  a  refreshing  quar- 
terly meeting  at  the  CliiF  Mine,  when  we  were  per- 
mitted to  see  about  fifty  in  the  love-feast,  and  a  large 
and  respectable  congregation  in  attendance  upon 
preaching.  And,  with  reference  to  Carp  river,  we 
could  but  say,  ^what  hath  God  wrought!'  The 
Yankee  had  found  his  way  here  and  begun  to  level 
the  forest.  A  village  had  sprung  up  as  if  by  magic ; 
and  here  the  banner  of  the  cross  had  been  unfurled, 
and  we  had  this  day  sat  together  in  a  heavenly 
place  in  Christ  Jesus." 

This  train  of  thought  awakened  grateful  feelings 
in  my  own  mind,  and  from  the  attention  of  the  audi- 
ence, we  judged  that  they  were  deeply  interested  in 
these  buddings  of  hope  and  promise.  Thus  closed 
the  Sabbath  and  our  quarterly  meeting,  a  season 
owned  of  God,  and  which  will  doubtless  be  remem- 
bered in  eternity. 

Monday  morning,  before  I  was  up,  the  Napoleon 
came  up  to  the  wharf,  on  her  way  to  the  Saut.  I  was 
thus  remarkably  favored,  to  be  able  to  return  so  soon. 
I  then  noted  in  my  journal:  "It  has  seemed  to  me 
this  whole  season,  as  if  God  was  leading  me  along  in 
the  way  of  his  peculiar  providence.  My  mind  has 
seemed  to  be  constantly  staid  by  faith  on  him,  and 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  343 

sucli  an  abiding  sense  of  liis  presence — such  tran- 
quillity of  mind  I  have  seldom  felt.  lie  has  also 
made  my  way  smooth  across  the  great  deep.  Not 
the  first  rough  sea  have  I  had  in  all  my  journeyings 
this  summer.  0,  how  great  is  his  goodness!  My 
soul,  praise  the  Lord!" 

Toward  evening  of  this  day,  the  sky  became  very 
dark  and  threatening;  clouds  flew  in  different  direc- 
tions; it  thundered;  the  heavens  were  now  in  a. blaze; 
then  all  was  dense  darkness  again,  and  anon  the  light- 
ning, in  a  zigzag  track,  would  part  the  sky.  God 
''spoke  in  thunder  and  breathed  in  lightning."  I 
stood  upon  the  deck,  and  gazed  as  upon  the  Eternal, 
revealed  in  fire — I  heard  his  voice  in  the  thunder. 
In  the  dark  wave  now  lit  up  with  the  lightning's 
glare — then  nearly  shut  out  from  vision  by  the  dense 
cloud  which  hung  over  us;  in  the  vast  expanse  of 
waters,  scarcely  disturbed  except  by  the  rotary  force 
of  the  screw  by  which  we  were  propelled,  leaving 
behind  us  a  foaming  wake ;  overhead  and  all  around 
were  displayed  the  wisdom,  power,  and  goodness  of 
God,  seeing  which  I  could  but  adore.  It  rained 
through  the  night;  but,  farther  than  this,  the  dark 
clouds  only  threatened.  AVe  had  calm  sea  to  the 
Saut,  which  we  reached  by  four  o'clock  the  next 
morning. 

On  the  way  I  read  the  life  of  Summerfield,  much 
to  my  edification.  '-Wonderful  man!"  as  I  then  ex- 
claimed.    "How  meek,  how  humble,  how  much  like 

the  beloved  disciple!     How  much  did  he   commune 

29 


344  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

With.  God!  What  a  career  of  usefulness  did  he  run! 
But  how  soon  was  he  taken  from  the  Church !  Surely 
he  lived  a  long  life  in  a  few  years;  gathered  many 
laurels,  all  of  which  he  hung  upon  the  cross  of  Christ ; 
and  after  having  suffered,  as  well  as  done  the  will  of 
God,  he  died  in  peace,  and  in  hope  of  a  glorious 
immortality.  0  for  a  measure  of  the  flame  by  which 
he  was  consumed!" 

The  following  Sabbath,  being  the  Fourth  of  July, 
I  had  the  privilege  of  delivering  a  national  discourse 
to  a  large  audience  for  the  place,  who  heard  atten- 
tively the  word  addressed  to  them,  founded  on  Psalm 
cxlvii,  20:  ^' He  hath  not  dealt  so  with  any  nation:' 
In  this  I  endeavored  to  delineate  some  of  the  strik- 
ing evidences  of  the  guiding  hand  of  Providence,  in 
the  birth  and  progress  of  our  nation,  as  clearly  trace- 
able in  the  pages  of  her  history. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  345 


CHAPTER   XXV. 

LAKE    SUPERIOR   INDIAN   CAMP   MEETING. 

On  the  12th  of  July  Tve  had  quite  an  arrival  at  our 
place,  of  Indians  and  ministerial  brethren  from  Can- 
ada, to  unite  "with  us  in  a  camp  meeting  to  be  held  at 
AMiite  Fish  Point,  about  fifty  miles  distant,  on  the 
shore  of  Lake  Superior.  Most  of  the  next  day  ^vas 
spent  in  procuring  supplies  and  arranging  prelimina- 
ries. "\Ye  arrived  at  the  encampment  early  on  "Wed- 
nesday morning  the  14th,  a  day  in  advance  of  the 
time,  and  "were  happy  to  find  several  tents  already  on 
the  ground,  among  -which  were  those  of  Pev.  E. 
Steele  and  Rev.  P.  Marksman,  from  Naomikong, 
whose  families  "were  "with  them. 

The  folio-wing  account  of  this  camp  meeting,  -with 
slight  additions  from  my  journal,  was  published  in  the 
Christian  Advocate  and  Journal,  and  in  the  Mission- 
ary Advocate.  It  is  dated  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  Michi- 
gan, 27th  July,  1852: 

"TO   THE   CORRESPOXDIXG    SECRETARY: 

'•Rev.  and  Dear  Brother, — In  my  last  I  apprised 
you  of  our  intention  to  hold  a  camp  meeting  at  "White 
Fish  Point,  Lake  Superior,  to  commence  on  the  loth 
instant.     As  this  is  the  first  thing  of  the  kind,  per 


846  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

haps,  ever  held  north  of  Lower  Michigan,  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Great  Lakes,  and  this  is  certainly  the 
case  so  for  as  Lake  Superior  is  concerned,  it  may  be 
acceptable  to  the  friends  of  missions  to  learn  the 
result. 

^'It  was  a  union  meeting.  Rev.  Mr.  M'Dougall, 
from  Garden  river,  Canada,  united  with  us,  and 
brought  with  him  forty  Lidians,  from    his   mission. 

"  Through  his  influence  we  were  favored  with  other 
very  valuable  help  from  Canada,  for  which  we  can  not 
in  too  strong  terms  express  our  sense  of  gratitude. 
Their  labors  were  greatly  blessed  to  the  good  of  our 
people.     These  were — 

'■^Rev.  L.  Warner,  chairman  of  the  Barrie  district, 
Ca7iada  West,  a  large  and  laborious  mission  district, 
including  eighteen  stations.  Mr.  Warner  is  a  gentle- 
man of  a  large  robust  frame,  a  broad  and  full  English 
face,  the  very  picture  of  perfect  health.  From  the 
cast  of  his  cranium  a  stranger  would  award  to  him  a 
high  degree  of  intellectual  prominence.  There  is  in 
his  carriage  an  air  of  hauteur,  but  this  is  only  in  ap- 
pearance. If  the  discourses  he  preached  while  among 
us  were  a  fair  specimen,  he  ranks  considerably  above 
mediocrity  as  a  preacher.  They  were  excellent,  not 
as  specimens  of  pulpit  oratory  in  the  popular  sense, 
but  as  clear,  full,  Scriptural  exhibitions  of  Gospel 
truth,  practically  applied  to  the  hearers,  and  accom- 
panied with  the  unction  and  power  of  the  Holy  Ghost. 
Blessed  with  uncommon  strength  of  lungs  and  great 
compass  of  voice,  he  made  the  encampment  resound 


]\IISSIONARY   LIFE.  347 

with  his  thundering  appeals  to  the  hearts  of  sinners. 
Nor  was  he  any  where  more  at  home,  or  more  active, 
than  in  the  prayer  meeting.  This  last  remark  is  true 
of  all  our  English  brethren  who  were  with  us.  AVhilo 
in  their  sermons  they  cast  into  the  deep  the  Gospel 
net,  by  the  fervency  of  their  prayers  they  helped  to 
draw^  it  ashore,  and  gather  up  the  fishes. 

"But  much  as  we  prized  the  services  of  Mr.  War- 
ner, we  were,  if  possible,  still  more  rejoiced  to  have 
with  us  the  experienced,  venerable,  and  much-beloved 
Indian  preacher,  Rev.  Peter  Jones,  whose  praise  is 
in  all  the  Churches.  His  dignified  appearance,  holy 
walk  and  conversation,  the  sweetness  of  his  spirit, 
the  holy  fervor  of  his  soul,  and  the  persuasive  elo- 
quence with  which  he  preached  Jesus  and  the  resur- 
rection, won  the  hearts  and  afi'ections  of  all  on  the 
ground.  We  esteemed  him  not  only  as  a  brother 
beloved,  but  were  constantly  reminded  by  his  deport- 
ment of  some  of  our  venerable  bishops — an  office 
which,  de  facto,  he  fills  among  his  Indian  brethren, 
though  untitled  and  not  in  the  line  of  the  ivould-be 
succession.  Long  may  he  yet  live  to  bless  the 
Church!  And  may  his  crown  in  heaven  be  filled 
■with  stars,  as  seals  of  his  ministry  on  earth ! 

"Next  we  had  with  us  Rev.  Mr.  Sallows,  lately 
stationed  at  the  Bruce  Mine — a  man  of  a  delicate 
constitution,  of  fair  preaching  abilities,  and  an  ardent 
devotion  to  the  interests  of  his  Master's  kingdom. 
These  were  our  visitors  from  abroad. 

"Rev.  Mr.  M'Dougall,  who  is  our  neighbor,  we 


348  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

<  esteem  very  liigUy  for  his  work's  sake/  as  a  devoted, 
untiring,  and  successful  missionary.  And  his  assist- 
ant,. Rev.  brother  Blaker,  is  a  good  helper. 

*'  As  to  the  preachers  on  our  own  side,  I  will  only 
say,  that,  'by  the  grace  of  God,  we  are  what  we  are.' 

"  We  had,  in  all,  nine  preachers,  and  Jesus  in  the 
midst.  We  had  throughout  the  meeting  a  demonstra- 
tion that  Methodism  is  one,  and  Methodist  preachers 
ai^e  one,  the  world  over. 

^^  Commenceme7it. — As  the  missionaries  and  a  goodly 
number  of  Indians  were  on  the  ground  on  the  14th 
inst.,  we  commenced  on  the  afternoon  of  that  day. 
instead  of  the  next,  the  time  appointed.  We  had, 
in  all,  twenty  tents  on  the  ground,  two  of  which  were 
connected  with  our  mission — one  for  the  preachers, 
and  the  other,  a  large  tent,  occupied  by  Rev.  E. 
Steele's  family  from  Naomikong,  where,  in  connec- 
tion with  brother  M'Dougall's  tent,  the  kind  sis- 
ters, with  much  hospitality,  ministered  to  our  wants. 
About  two  hundred  Indians  attended  the  meeting; 
not  as  many  as  we  had  expected;  many  were  provi- 
dentially hindered.  There  were  four  tents  from  Ke- 
wawenon,  a  distance  of  two  hundred  miles. 

^'Divine  blessing. — From  first  to  last  we  were  con- 
strained to  own  the  hand  of  a  kind  Providence.  We 
were  much  blessei  in  getting  to  and  from  the  ground. 
We  were  remarkably  preserved  from  sickness,  though 
we  had  no  small  ground  to  fear  that  the  small-pox 
might  make  its  appearance  among  the  Indians,  as 
some  had  been  exposed.     Some  from  Garden  river, 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  349 

after  having  come  as  far  as  the  Saut^  returned  home 
again  for  fear  of  this.  We  were  favored  with  ex- 
cellent weather,  and  with  no  disturbance  from  any 
source.  There  was  not  a  dog  to  move  his  tongue 
against  us.  A  more  orderly  camp  meeting  was  prob- 
ably never  held.  The  Indians  who  had  been  on  the 
ground  before  us,  fishing,  caught  abundance  of  fish, 
and  came  and  threw  them  on  the  shore  for  common 
use ;  so  that,  with  the  bread  we  took  from  home,  we 
had  a  good  supply  of  the  same  food  to  eat  on  which 
Christ  fed  the  hungry  multitudes.  And  the  best  of 
all  is,  we  were  fed  spiritually;  sinners  were  power- 
fully converted,  backsliders  reclaimed,  the  Church 
greatly  quickened,  and  God's  name  glorified,  in  the 
salvation  of  souls.  Under  the  very  first  sermon  a 
shower  of  melting  mercy  was  poured  down  upon  us, 
while  brother  Jones,  who  preached,  gave  us  an  ac- 
count of  the  work  of  God  among  the  Indians  in 
Canada,  and  then  related  his  own  Christian  experience. 
''Tlie  meeting  a  novelty  to  the  Indians. — But,  though 
an- unction  and  power  attended  the  word  preached,  it 
was  with  some  difiiculty  that  the  Indians  were  led  to 
drink  into  the  camp-meeting  spirit.  All  was  new. 
They  had  only  heard  about  these  meetings.  But  at 
last,  en  masse,  they  threw  off  the  shackles.  With 
the  mighty  weapon  of  prayer  they  besieged  the 
eternal  throne.  In  the  hand  of  omnipotent  faith  it 
became  the  Icey  to  unlock  the  door  of  mercy  and 
salvation,  and  the  healing  stream  flowed  plenteously 
all  around.     There  was  seen  the  wounded  penitent, 


850  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

whose  conscience  had  been  transfixed  by  the  arroTf 
from  Jehovah's  quiver,  crying  for  mercy.     There  lay 
prostrate  the  soul,  smitten  to  earth,  under  the  mighty 
po^ver  of  God.     There  was  seen  the  prodigal  return- 
ing again  to  his  father's  house.     Mingled  with  the 
cries  and  groans  of  penitents  were  heard  the  shouts 
and  praises  of  souls  redeemed  and  saved.     Parents 
were   seen   bending  over  their  weeping   children,   to 
point  them  to  Jesus,  and  children  were  seen  weeping 
and  praying  over  unconverted  parents ;  brother  inter- 
ceded in  behalf  of  brother,  and  sister  in  behalf  of 
sister.     Here  was  a  struggle  which,  to  a  thoughtless 
world,  might   have   appeared  like   disorder.     But  it 
was  with  each  a  struggle  for  salvation,  and,  in  the 
viev/  of  heaven,  presented  a  scene  of  greater  moral 
sublimity   than   all   the  boasted  pageantry  of  earth. 
'There  is  joy  in  heaven  among  the  angels  of  God' 
when  sinners  repent.     We  do  not  know  how  many 
were   converted;    we   think    at   least   thirty,   besides 
those  reclaimed.     And  among  those  converted  it  was 
matter  of  rejoicing   to  see   an   old  heathen   woman, 
perhaps  eighty  years  old,  the  mother  of  David  King, 
chief,  from  Kewawenon.     She,  with   several   others, 
infants  and  adults,  was  baptized  in  the  name  of  the 
holy  Trinity.     About  thirty  united  with  the  Church, 
to  be   enrolled   at  their  respective   residences.     We 
think  tliere  are  others  who  will  unite  at  their  homes. 
'^Marriage. — A  wedding    took    place   on    Sabbath 
evening  in  the  altar.     The  couple  were  from  Garden 
river.     They  appeared  very  young,  and  the  mother 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  351 

held  in  her  arms  a  sprightly  infant.  Their  mis- 
sionary held  the  child  in  his  arms,  while  brother 
Jones  performed  the  solemn  service,  after  which  the 
child  and  its  mother  were  dedicated  to  God  in  bap- 
tism. One  of  our  clerical  friends  present,  not  under- 
standing much  Indian,  and  supposing  the  whole  to 
be  a  baptismal  ceremony,  and  noticing  that  the  offi- 
ciating minister  paid  almost  exclusive  attention  to 
this  couple,  to  the  neglect  of  some  candidates  for 
baptism  standing  near,  exclaimed,  ^Brother  Jones, 
you  have  forgot  them,^  the  persons  above  alluded  to. 
"^Vho  ever  w^itnessed  such  a  scene  before ! 

^''Missionary  meeting. — Saturday  afternoon  we  had 
a  deeply-interesting  missionary  meeting.  An  Indian 
brother — Rev.  Mr.  Blaker — was  called  to  the  chair, 
and,  after  a  pithy  opening  speech,  presided  with  much 
dignity.  Short  speeches  were  made  by  several  min- 
isters and  Indians,  and  a  very  cheering  missionary 
spirit  pervaded  the  meeting.  As  time  had  advanced, 
and  much  remained  to  be  done  preparatory  to  the 
holy  Sabbath,  no  collection  was  taken  up  on  the 
spot.  But  this  was  done  privately,  by  brother  Blaker 
among  the  Indians  from  Canada,  and  by  brother 
Marksman  among  our  own.  The  result  was  an- 
nounced on  the  Sabbath,  which  proved  good,  for 
our  people  pledged  and  paid  over  forty  dollars ;  all 
of  which  we  hope  to  have  ready  by  conference.  The 
Indians  from  Canada  contributed  liberally,  according 
to  their  numbers — over  thirteen  dollars,  I  think.  On 
account  of  the  poverty  of  our  Indians,  we  have  made 


352  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

no  attempt  of  this  kind  before;  but  we  judged  that 
the  time  had  come  to  inculcate  more  fully  the  truth 
that  'it  is  more  blessed  to  give  than  to  receive.'  An 
Indian  from  Kewawenon  gave  three  dollars  in  money; 
and  a  pious  widow  came  into  our  tent,  and  said  that 
she  had  not  much  to  give,  but  left,  as  a  testimonial 
of  her  love  to  the  cause,  fifty-six  cents.  The  widow's 
mite  will  have  its  reward. 

"  The  love-feast  and  sacramejit  of  the  Lord's  sup- 
per.— We  spent  the  Sabbath  till  afternoon  in  these 
delightful  exercises.  Thirty-three  persons  spoke  of 
the  dealings  of  God  with  their  souls.  While  so  doing 
our  hearts  were  strangely  warmed  with  God's  love. 
The  day  was  beautifully  clear ;  the  very  atmosphere 
seemed  benignant  with  the  smile  of  heaven.  The 
slight  rustling  among  the  forest  pines  vras  only  in- 
dicative of  the  heavenly  zephyrs  which  were  fanning 
our  spirits.  The  bright  sun  reminded  us  how  brightly 
the  Sun  of  righteousness  was  shining  into  our  hearts. 
The  surrounding  stillness  seemed  to  say  that  the  dove 
of  mercy  was  poised  over  the  congregation,  to  wit- 
ness the  confession  of  sinners  saved.  Angels,  with 
intense  interest,  were  gazing  upon  the  scene.  All 
things  conspired  to  say,  'How  dreadful  is  this  place! 
This  is  the  house  of  God,  and  this  is  the  gate  of 
heaven.'  Many  who  would  gladly  have  spoken  could 
not  for  want  of  time.  At  the  sacrament,  which  im- 
mediately followed,  seventy-nine  persons  communed. 
Many  will  in  heaven,  we  trust,  remember  this  blessed 
season.     At  the  risk  of  extending  this  sketch,  I  copy 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  353 


the  testimony  of  several  of  our  Indian  brethren  given 
in  the  love-feast.  I  am  enabled  to  do  this  through 
the  kindness  of  Rev.  Peter  Jones,  who  interpreted 
what  they  said.  There  are  some  whose  remarks  we 
did  not  get;  and  of  others,  only  a  part  was  obtained: 

'^ Rev.  P.  3IarJcsman  said:  ^I  will  tell  a  little  what 
God  has  done  for  my  soul.  I  am  happy  in  my  heart. 
I  love  God  and  my  brethren.  I  desire  my  Indian 
brethren  to  be  converted.  The  day  is  clear.*  I 
know  that  trials  are  ahead,  but  I  will  overcome  all 
through  Christ.  I  hope  to  receive  a  crown  of  glory. 
It  is  a  high  day  to  us  all.  May  God  in  Christ  bring 
us  all  to  meet  in  heaven !' 

"  Hev.  3Ir.  BlaJccr,  from  Garden  river,  said :  '  It 
is  seven  years  since  my  father  died,  who  exhorted 
me,  on  his  death-bed,  to  serve  God.  Joseph  Skunk 
was  the  means  of  my  conversion,  five  years  ago.  I 
will  fight  my  passage  through  till  death.' 

'^ Rev.  Joseph  Taunchey  said:  ^The  sun  shines  in 
my  heart.  I  am  in  poor  health.  Am  resolved  to 
serve  God.  I  was  rejoiced  to  see  some  converted 
to  God  last  night.' 

'-''Thomas  Nah-hen-a-osh  said:  'I  am  young.f  I 
gave  my  heart  to  God  while  young.  I  have  passed 
through  many  trials.  Many  of  my  relatives  have 
gone  to  heaven.  I  hope  to  meet  all  in  glory.  1 
desire  the  prayers  of  all  God's  people." 


*  He  meant  spiritaally  as  well  as  literally. 

t  He  is,  doubtless,  over  thirty  years  of  age,  but  be  fdt  young. 


354  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

^^  Pi-ali-he-dah-sing,  one  of  the  chiefs  from  Gardei^ 
river,  said:  *I  would  be  glad  if  the  weather — sun 
of  the  Great  Spirit — would  stop  to  allow  the  meeting 
to  continue  longer.  I  am  thankful  for  the  labors 
of  brother  M'Dougall.  I  am  very  happy  in  my  heart. 
I  know  that  God  has  changed  my  heart.' 

'■^  John  OgisJifa,  once  a  boarding-scholar  at  our 
mission,  said :  '  Since  I  heard  brother  Pitezel  I  have 
been  trying  to  serve  God.  I  was  converted  last 
spring,  in  the  sugar-bush,  under  brother  Marksman's 
preaching.' 

^^ All-he-tall- ge-zhih  said:  ^I  was  converted  to  God, 
in  the  sugar-bush,  last  spring — same  time  as  the  one 
above.  I  was  very  happy.  I  long  for  the  conversion 
of  my  relatives.  I  am  very  happy  now,  and  ever 
since  I  came  here.' 

"6^.  Bedell,  from  Kewawenon,  said:  ^I  think  I 
have  just  come  to  life.  I  am  very  happy.  Last 
night,  while  praying  for  sinners,  it  was  like  heaven 
on  earth.  The  singing  was  heavenly.  I  feel  as  if 
I  must  go  and  tell  all  the  Indians  how  good  Jesus  is.' 

^^  Johnson  Shj  said:  ^I  feel  that  I  must  give  thanks 
to  God.  Seven  years  since  I  was  told  that  I  was 
a  sinner.  I  felt  sick  in  my  heart  and  prayed.  By 
and  by  my  wife  left  me,  and,  on  her  dying  bed, 
exhorted  me  to  serve  God.  When  I  heard  last  win- 
ter that  this  camp  meeting  was  going  to  be  held,  1 
was  glad.  I  have  been  greatly  blessed  since  I  came 
here.' 

^' Moses  0-mon-o-mon-ee  said:  ^I  have  been  a  stum- 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  355 

bling  Christian;  I  rose  up,  and  then  fell;  I  found 
that  I  was  not  soundly  converted.  But  since  I  came 
here  my  soul  has  been  blessed,  and  novr  the  sun 
shines  very  bright  and  clear.' 

"'Mother  Waislikee  said:  *I  am  very  happy.  One 
of  my  sons  died,  and  on  his  death-bed  exhorted  me 
to  be  faithful.  I  am  glad  that  I  am  here.  I  know 
that  God  loves  me.  I  am  thankful  to  sec  my  chil- 
dren turning  to  God.  I  hope  to  meet  my  brethren 
and  sisters  in  heaven.' 

"Buth  Nah-hen-a-osh  said:  ^I  am  glad  in  my  heart. 
I  am  glad  to  feast  with  my  brethren.  Religion  is 
very  good  for  me.     I  will  try  to  meet  all  in  heaven.' 

''Sarah  Pwaun  said:  'I  feel  very  small  in  my 
heart.  By  fiiith  I  see  ray  children  m  heaven,  who 
exhorted  me  to  be  faithful.  I  often  shed  tears  of 
joy.  I  am  very  happy  now,  and  want  the  prayers 
of  the  brethren.' 

''David  King,  chief,  from  Kewawenon,  said:  'It 
has  been  ten  years  since  I  began  to  pray.  I  am  very 
glad  to  be  here  to  unite  with  the  people  of  God  in 
this  feast.  I  am  thankful  that  I  have  heard  the  words 
of  the  Great  Spirit  which  were  brought  to  me  from 
the  east.' 

"Adam  Ah-nun-goo,  from  Lake  Vieux  Desert,  con- 
verted from  heathenism  last  winter,  at  Kewawenon, 
said:  'I  feel  the  good  feeling  in  my  heart.  As  the 
sun  now  shines  so  does  the  heavenly  sun  now  shine 
in  my  heart.  I  feel  as  if  I  could  now  arise  and  go 
to  my  Father.' 


356  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

^^  Nancy  Asher  said  that  she  was  happy  in  the 
Lord. 

"  William  Pwaun,  one  of  the  chiefs  from  Naomi- 
kong,  said:  'About  ten  years  ago  John  Kah-beege 
came  here.  I  then  began  to  pray.  I  was  converted 
in  the  woods  when  alone.  I  was  yqyj  happy  all  the 
night.  I  could  not  sleep,  I  was  so  happy.  When 
the  morning  came  I  felt  as  if  a  host  of  angels  were 
around  me.  I  looked  up  to  heaven  and  saw,  by  faith, 
the  glory  of  heaven.  I  went  and  told  my  family 
what  God  had  done  for  my  soul.' 

'^IletasJi,  from  Garden  river,  said:  'I  have  Jesus 
for  my  sun.' 

''Louis  WaisJiJcee,  chief,  from  Yv^aishkees  Bay,  said: 
^I  have  been  taught  in  all  the  arts  of  the  old  Indian 
ways ;  but  I  have  cast  them  all  away.  Religion  grows 
better  and  better.' 

''Henry  KakaT<:oons  said:  'I  am  well  known  by  my 
Indian  brethren,  and  what  I  have  been — a  great  sin- 
ner. I  am  very  poor.'  This  is  all  I  got  of  what 
he  said,  though  he  was  evidently  much  blessed. 

"Isaac  KaJcahoons,  who  had  apparently  been  a  long 
time  waiting  for  an  opportunity  to  speak,  said:  "I 
know  that  my  mind  centers  on  Christ.  It  goes  right 
to  God;  for  this  reason  I  am  very  thankful.' 

"  OgisJita,  chief,  from  Garden  river,  arose  and 
stood  upon  a  bench  in  the  altar,  and  said:  'I  put 
myself  in  a  conspicuous  place,  that  you  may  look  at 
a  poor  Indian  who  has  a  very  heavy  load.  I  want 
to  tell  what  is  the  state  of  my  poor  body  and  heart. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  357 

I  am  almost  fifty  years  old.  I  have  seen  a  good  deal 
of  earthly  pleasure.  And  these  things  now  make 
me  cry.  Nothing  formerly  could  make  me  cry,  only 
when  my  children  were  called  away  from  me.  I  have 
lost  several.  My  eyes  have  often  wept;  I  have  lost 
my  brothers  and  sisters ;  I  have  seen  them  die.  Now 
since  I  have  come  here  I  rejoice  to  hear  the  words 
that  I  have  heard,  and  to  see  Avhat  I  have  seen.  I 
am  glad  that  brother  M'Dougall  was  determined  to 
bring  me  along.  About  twenty  years  ago  I  heard 
about  the  Great  Spirit.  Rev.  Mr.  M'Murray — of  the 
Protestant  Episcopal  Church — continued  with  us  about 
six  years.  I  then  exhorted  the  Indians  to  become 
Christians.  Meiasli  joined  in  with  me.  But  I  found 
that  I  was  only  deceiving  myself.  Now  I  have  found 
out  what  the  true  religion  is.  My  eyes  weep  and 
my  heart  shakes.  When  I  lost  my  children  I  felt 
very  sorry.  I  v,as  very  anxious  that  they  should 
all  do  well.  When  I  was  young  I  was  accustomed 
to  fast,  and  to  blacken  my  face  with  charcoal.  Some 
years  ago  I  gave  my  son  John  to  the  mission  school — 
at  Saut  Ste.  Marie.  He  did  not  do  right  when  he 
ran  away  from  the  school;  but  now  he  is  weeping 
on  account  of  the  goodness  of  God.  I  wish  him  to 
be  useful.  When  I  heard  of  the  fast,"^^  I  set  apart 
the  whole  day,  tliat  my  soul  might  he  fed.     I  desir 


*  Saturday,  till  afternoon,  was  set  apart  for  fasting  and  i)rayer.  O'jishta 
did  not  break  his  fast  till  Sunday  evening  1  and  then  was  urged  to  oat ! 
Christian,  here  learn  self-denial.  The  body  was  unfed  for  two  days, 
*'ihat  the  soul  might  he  fed." 


358  LIGHTS  AXD  SHADES  OF 

to  walk  with  my  brethren,  and  go  on  "with  them  in 
the  good  way,  and  met  them  in  heaven.' 

"  Close. — The  camp  meeting — formaVi) — closed  on 
Monday  afternoon.  A  sermon  was  preached  by 
brother  Jones,  and  we  then  marched  around  the 
ground  and  sung,  while  each  gave  to  the  other  the 
hand  in  affectionate  farewell;  but,  in  truth,  though 
most  orderly,  it  was  the  driest  farewell  I  ever  wit- 
nessed. The  wind  was  ahead,  and,  much  as  our 
brethren  from  abroad  wanted  to  leave  the  ground 
that  day,  the  Indians  were  sagacious  enough  to  know 
that  this  was  out  of  the  question;  they,  therefore, 
rather  smiled  than  luept,  at  being  so  hoaxed. 

"Well,  camp  meeting  was  now  over,  but  we  were 
all  as  firmly  fixed  as  ever.  Something  must  be  done. 
The  first  thing  we  knew  the  Indians  were  collecting 
about  the  stand,  and  we  soon  discovered  that  the  rite 
of  Indian  cliristening  was  about  to  be  performed. 

[In  the  published  account  of  this  meeting  I  did 
not  give  the  particulars  of  this  naming  process.  Its 
novelty  was  interesting  to  us,  and  may  be  equally  so 
to  the  reader,  and  is,  therefore,  here  briefly  described. 

The  chief,  from  Garden  river,  made  an  opening 
speech,  in  which  he  mentioned  "the  benefits  which 
the  Indians  had  received  from  the  labors  of  the  min,- 
isters,  and  that  they  wished  to  remember  them,  but 
they  had  names  that  it  was  difficult  for  them  to 
speak.  He  was  going  to  give  Mr.  Warner  a  name 
that  any  cliild  could  understand."  He  then  named 
him  so  that  all  could  hear — "  Shing-wauk,''  the  ''Fine- 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  359 

Tree^^  b  j  the  way,  the  name  of  the  aged  Garden 
river  chief,  0-gish-ta's  father.  He  then  said  that, 
**  when  Shing-wauk  should  come  among  them  the  next 
year,  and  should  lift  up  his  voice,  they  must  all 
gather  around  him  as  chickens  around  an  old  hen;' 
to  which  all  heartily  responded,  '-^ HaialiT 

They  next  named  the  writer  through  Wm.  Pwaun, 
who  acted  as  speaker.  The  name  "  Wa-zah-wah-wa- 
doong^^  the  "  Yelloiv  Beard,'^  is  an  old  family  name, 
and  was  the  name  of  one  of  the  best  Indians  ever 
connected  with  the  Te-quali-rne-nah  band,  who  died  a 
few  years  since,  in  the  faith  of  the  Christian,  lamented 
by  all  who  knew  him.  I  was  then  addressed  as  a 
brother  by  the  acting  chief,  Pivaun. 

Rev.  E.  Steele  was  next  named,  ''^  I-ah-he-iua-diCj^ 
which  signifies  ''  Male-ElkJ'  He  was  warmly  greeted 
afterward,  as  were  the  rest,  as  a  brother  now  adopted 
by  the  Indians.. 

The  other  ministerial  brethren  having  had  this 
honor  conferred  on  them  before,  were  novr  left  out  of 
the  list.     Thus  closed  this  novel  performance.] 

"At  night  we  had  a  famous  temperance  meeting. 

This,  we  hope,  in  its  future  bearing  upon  the  Indians, 

will   prove    as    beneficial    as    any    meeting    we    had. 

Louis  Waishkee,  an  Indian  chief,  made  us  a  dignified 

president.     The   meeting  was    addressed   by  several 

speakers.     Marked  attention  was  paid  to  all  that  was 

said.     Meanwhile   a   pledge  of  total   abstinence  was 

presented,  and  one  hundred  and  five  persons  signed — 

most  of  the  Indians  then  on  the  ground. 
30 


860  LIGHTS  AKD   SHADES   OF 

"Tuesclny  morning,  after  breakfast,  we  left  tlie  en- 
campment, in  a  large  battean,  with  tlie  Indians  from 
Garden  river,  and  the  preachers  from  Canada,  amidst 
abundant  cheers,  the  firing  of  guns,  etc. 

"Now,  my  dear  brother,  I  have  given  you  a  hastily- 
written  account  of  this  firsty  and,  to  us,  interesting, 
Lake  Superior  camp  meeting.  You  can  only  get  a 
glimpse  through  this  imperfect  sketch.  But  I  hope 
that  at  least  it  will  be  seen  and  felt,  that  true  religion 
is  the  same, 

*  In  the  void  -waste  as  in  the  city  full ;' 

the  same  in  the  heart  of  a  poor  northern  Indian  as 
in  the  heart  of  an  Anglo-Saxon ;  that  the  name  of 
Jesus  is  that  which  charms  the  fears  and  soothes  the 
sorrows  of  the  heathen;  and  that, 

'Where  He  vital  breathes  there  must  he  joy.' 

"That  souls  have  been  saved  and  God  glorified,  is 
to  us  cause  of  rejoicing;  'yea,  and  we  will  rejoice' 
Pray  for  our  continued  prosperity. 

"Affectionately  yours,  J.  H.  Pitezel." 

After  Rev.  Peter  Jones  returned  home,  he  Avrote  a 
very  interesting  account  of  his  missionary  tour  to 
Lakes  Huron  and  Superior,  which  was  published  in 
the  Christian  Guardian,  Toronto,  in  which  our  camp 
meeting  was  described  quite  minutely.  Mr.  Jones's 
complete  acquaintance  with  the  Ojibwa,  enabled  him 
to  seize  upon  the  peculiar  expression  of  the  language, 


MISSIOXAKY   LIFE.  361 

SO  as  to  present  it  Tvitli  great  force.  I  can  not  bet- 
ter close  this  chapter  than  by  giving  a  brief  extract 
from  this  account.  It  thus  describes  our  temperance 
meeting: 

"The  wind  being  contrary,  w'e  were  obliged  to 
tarry  on  the  ground  another  night.  In  the  evening 
we  held  a  temperance  meeting.  Chief  Waubojeig 
Washkee  was  called  to  the  chair,  and  made  a  short 
speech,  after  which  the  following  brethren  addressed 
the  meeting:  Warner,  Pitezel,  Steele,  Gregory,  B. 
Shing-wauk  and  myself.  The  usual  pledge  was  then 
readily  signed  by  one  hundred  and  five  Indians. 
Chief  Ogestaih  was  then  requested  to  proclaim  the 
number  who  had  given  their  names  to  the  cause  of 
temperance,  which  he  did  in  a  masterly  manner,  caus- 
ing his  powerful  voice  to  resound  through  the  woods 
and  along  the  shore  of  the  Lake  to  a  great  distance. 
He  rose  up  and  said,  'Hear  me,  hear  me,  Ogestaih 
has  been  chosen  to  proclaim  the  result  of  this  meet- 
ing; the  number  of  Indians  who  now  say  that  they 
will  never  again  drink  the  fire-water,  is  one  hundred 
and  five.  These  one  hundred  and  five  Indians  now 
say,  that  there  shall  be  no  more  deaths  by  drowning 
in  the  water — no  more  burning  to  death — no  more 
quarreling  nor  fighting — no  more  bruised  eyes — no 
more  dragging  the  wife  by  the  hair  of  her  head — no 
more  murders — and  you  who  are  husbands  now  say, 
you  will  no  more  be  jealous  of  your  wives,  and  you 
wives  say  you  will  be  no  more  jealous  of  your  hus- 
bands—and last  of  all,  Ogestaih  says,  that   he  also 


862  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

^ill  no  more  be  jealous  of  his  ^ife.  This  is  all  I 
have  to  say.'  At  the  conclusion  of  each  sentence, 
the  usual  Indian  exclamation  of  'JTaiA,'*  was  shouted 
from  many  voices  throughout  the  camp-ground." 


*  This  is  evidently  a  misprint — it  should  be  '  Hai 


MISSIONARY   LTFE.  3^3 


CHAPTER    XXYI. 

A  GENERAL  VIEW  OF  LAKE   SUPERIOR  MISSIONS. 

A  FULL  account  has  before  been  given  of  the  re- 
vival which  was  in  progress  at  the  village  of  the  Ste. 
Marie,  during  the  winter.  To^rard  the  close  of  the 
summer  we  had  to  record  with  pain  that  some,  who 
gave  promise  of  better  things,  measured  their  steps 
back  again  to  the  world;  but  most  of  the  converts 
went  on  their  way  rejoicing.  A  message  was  received 
at  the  Fort  from  the  "War  Department,  by  which  the 
troops  were  ordered  to  California.  This  broke  in 
upon  our  ranks.  Sergeant  M.  and  his  family,  of 
whom  such  particular  mention  has  been  made,  re- 
ceived an  honorable  discharge  from  the  army.  I 
gave  them  certificates  of  their  standing  in  the  Church, 
which  they  took  with  them  into  Wisconsin,  where 
they  located,  and  again  united  with  the  Church.  In 
the  fall  I  had  the  privilege  of  seeing  the  minister 
at  the  Wisconsin  conference  who  received  tliem  into 
the  Church.  After  these  removals  Ave  had  left  eight 
members,  six  of  whom  were  on  probation.  We  con- 
tinued to  have  an  intelligent  and  interesting  con- 
gregation to  attend  upon  the  preached  word,  and  had 
reason  to  believe  that,  though  much  of  the  seed  sown 
fell  upon  a  floating  community,  it  was  not  all  lost. 


304  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES    OF 

Our  Sunday  school  was  kept  up  with  a  good  degree 
of  interest. 

Naomikong. — The  signs  of  progress  were  very  en- 
couraging at  this  Indian  station  most  of  the  year. 
A  letter  from  Rev.  E,  Steele,  of  December  6th, 
speaks  on  this  wise:  ''Our  congregations  are  large 
considering  the-population.  The  house  is  frequently 
crowded  to  overflowing.  The  Indians  are  attentive 
to  the  preached  word.  They  all,  saint  and  sinner, 
male  and  female,  old  and  young,  kneel  in  time  of 
prayer.  We  have  had  some  interesting  meetings,  in 
which  the  presence  of  Christ  was  realized  among  his 
people." 

In  the  following,  which  I  take  from  my  report, 
published  in  the  Annual  Report  of  the  Missionary 
Society  for  1852,  we  have  the  ripe  Gospel  fruit  in 
death  of  the  seed  which  was  sown  in  life : 

"Since  the  last  report  two  members  have  died — 
one,  a  young  man,  whose  name  was  Francis  Bangs. ''^ 
He  not  only  died  in  great  peace,  but  in  the  triumphs 
of  faith,  praising  God,  and  exhorting  all  to  meet  him 
in  heaven.  The  other  was  a  man  somewhat  advanced 
in  life.  His  name  was  Henry  0-ge-mah-be-nas,  which 
signifies  king  of  birds.  He  embraced  Christianity 
about  two  years  since,  and  we  trust  he  now  rests  in 
Abraham's  bosom.  There  is  now  a  sister  in  the  last 
stages  of  consumption,  and,  from  all  appearance,  near 


*-"Scc  atributc  to  the  memory  of  this  young  man,,  by  Rev.  S.  Steele,  in 
the  'Ladies'  Repository  for  January,  1852,'  under  '  The  Dt/ui<j  Indian.'" 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  365 

the  spirit-workl.  She  is  resigned — billing  to  die^ 
says  Christ  is  precious,  and  believes  she  shall  go  to 
heaven."  The  sister  has  since  died,  leaving  a  family 
of  nine  children  with  her  husband  to  mourn  their  loss. 
Brother  Steele,  in  a  letter  dated  January  30th, 
1852,  gives  an  account  of  a  pagan  woman  who  has 
recently  embraced  the  Gospel.  I  think  it  well  worthy 
a  place  in  a  missionary  report.  In  a  conversation- 
with  brother  Marksman,  she  said,  "'My  husband, 
who  is  a  pagan,  went  to  Grand  Island  to  live  last  fall. 
I  told  him  I' would  not  go,  but  stay  at  Naomikong 
with  my  daughter,  that  I  might  have  an  opportunity 
to  hear  the  word  of  the  Lord  preached.  And  now  I 
can  understand  the  preached  Avord  better  than  ever 
before.  The  light  has  broken  into  my  mind  gradually. 
Some  time  since  I  was  very  sick — thought  I  should 
(lie — could  not  bear  the  thought  of  dying  and  being 
buried  as  a  heathen,  but  felt  a  strong  desire  to  die 
and  be  buried  in  a  Christian  manner.  AVhen  I  felt 
unhappy  in  my  heart  I  went 'and  prayed,  and  my 
mind  became  calm  and  happy ;  and  for  some  time  past 
I  have  felt  a  desire  to  unite  with  this  people — Meth- 
odists— but  last  Sabbath  evening  I  became  more  con- 
vinced of  my  duty  than  ever  before.  I  now  present 
myself.     I  am  now  willing  to  be  baptized.' 

''  The  next  Sabbath  she  was  baptized,  and  received 
into  the  Church  on  probation." 

I  copy  the  following  from  the  same  letter : 
"Sabbath  evening,  the  25th  instant,  after  a  warm 
exhortation,  and  an  invitation,  seven  kneeled  at  the 


866  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

altar  of  prayer,  and  cried  aloud  for  mercy.  Praise 
God!     0  Lord,  carry  on  thy  blessed  work! 

"Tuesday  evening,  January  27th,  we  had  meeting 
again,  and  twelve  came  forward  as  seekers  of  religion, 
among  themi  three  of  the  mission  boys.  A  young 
woman  spoke.  She  said,  '  The  Lord  blessed  m.e  last 
Sabbath  evening  when  I  came  forward  for  prayers, 
and  I  have  been  happy  ever  since;  and,  by  the  grace 
of  God  assisting  me,  I  will  live  faithful  till  death.' 

"Thursday  evening,  January  29th,  we  assembled 
for  our  usual  prayer  meeting,  and  ten  came  forward 
for  prayers.  One  young  man  was  converted.  He 
arose  and  said,  'While  I  w^as  wrestling  in  prayer  with 
God,  I  felt  joy  in  my  heart,  and  my  heart  arose  up 
to  meet  God.  And  now  I  know  that  Jesus  is  pre- 
cious  to    my  soul.' 

"We  hope  that  what  we  have  seen  is  but  the  drop- 
ping from  the  cloud  which  precedes  the  sweeping 
shower.  0  pray  for  us,  that  God  may  bring  all  these 
children  of  the  forest  to  a  knowledge  of  his  sal- 
vation." 

We  have  lost  and  gained  some  members,  so  that 
the  statistics  are  about  the  same  as  before  reported — 
sixty-three — of  whom  four  are  whites  and  eighteen 
on  probation.  The  day  school  numbers  twenty-eight 
scholars,  eight  of  whom  are  girls.  They  are  reported 
as  progressing  well  in  their  studies.  The  Sabbath 
school  is  also  doing  well.  The  children  are  succeed- 
ing well  in  committing  Scripture  to  memory;  seven- 
teen children  in  six  weeks  had  recited  four  hundred 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  3(37 

and  seventj-six  verses.  This  seems  small  to  such  as 
are  accustomed  to  the  recitations  of  -VNhite  children; 
but  let  ivhite  children  commit  Scripture  to  memory  in 
Indian,  then  compare  them  ^vith  Indian  beginners. 
The  school  is  comprised  of  twenty-one  scholars,  and 
four  officers  and  teachers. 

Four  children  hoard  in  the  mission  family;  and, 
since  the  death  of  his  sister,  brother  Marksman  has 
taken  into  his  family  two  of  her  children. 

The  property  of  the  station,  including  land  pur- 
cha'sed,  mission-house,  school-house,  etc.,  is  estimated 
at  four  hundred  dollars. 

"Within  one  year  these  Indians  had  built  eight  or 
ten  comfortable  log-houses.  They  were  gradually 
laying  aside  the  chase  and  turning  their  attention  to 
agriculture  and  other  industrial  pursuits.  From  their 
proximity  to  the  Lake,  and  their  superior  skill  as 
fishermen,  fishing  must  •  always  be  one  of  the  pur- 
suits of  this  people,  and  one  vrhich,  if  projJerly  fol- 
lowed, may  be  made  lucrative.  It  must  be  to  them 
what  the  farm  and  the  trade  is  to  many  others.  Our 
camp  meeting  was  made  a  great  blessing  to  this  sta- 
tion. The  Indians  spent  much  of  the  summer  at 
"White  Fish  Point,  engaged  in  fishing.  They  re- 
mained longer  than  they  would  have  done  on  account 
of  the  small-pox  which  broke  out  at  the  Saut,  and 
had  been  conveyed  to  the  saw-mill,  within  six  miles 
of  the  mission.  Though  some  of  them  had  been  ex- 
posed to  this  dreadful  scourge,  up  to  the  time  of  my 

latest  intelligence,  none  of  them  had  taken  it.     One 

31 


368  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

Tv-oman  had  the  varioloid.  We  see  and  own  in  this 
the  hand  of  Providence. 

Kewaivenon. — The  following  is  from  my  report  sent 
to  the  Corresponding  Secretary,  dated  Aug.  23, 1852; 

"This  mission  has  shared  its  nsnal  prosperity. 
During  the  year,  several  heathen  Indians  have  be- 
come the  subjects  of  converting  grace.  As  an  evi- 
dence of  the  genuineness  of  their  faith,  they  brought 
their  bad  medicines,  and  various  instruments  of  sor- 
cery and  idolatry,  and  delivered  them  to  the  mis- 
sionary, who  has  them  now  in  his  possession.  These 
Indians  are  continuing  to  improve  in  civilization,  and 
we  look  forward  to  the  time  when  they  shall  stand 
forth — not  white  men,  but  Indians  renovated  and 
saved — elevated  far  above  what  they  once  were  phys- 
ically, intellectually,  in  their  moral  and  social  condi- 
tion. According  to  the  latest  account  I  have  re- 
ceived, the  Church  numbers  fifty-three  members,  of 
whom  thirteen  are  on  probation. 

"The  day  school  has  numbered  eighteen  male  and 
nine  female  scholars — average  attendance,  thirteen. 
The  children  have  been  instructed  by  brother  Bar- 
num,  and  are  reported  as  progressing  in  their  studies. 

"There  is  one  Sabbath  school,  six  officers  and 
teachers,  thirty-eight  scholars,  and  one  hundred  vol- 
umes in  library,  a  good  supply  of  primers,  tracts, 
question  books,  hymn-books  and  Testaments.  If  suf- 
fered to  remain,  and  properly  encouraged  by  the 
Government,  I  think  these  Indians  must  continue 
to  improve." 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  369 

Eagle  River  3IUsion. — This  was  a  laborious  field, 
embracing  work  enough  for  two  men.  It  comprised 
most  of  the  mining  stations  on  Point  Kewenav^, 
which  were  visited,  as  far  as  possible,  by  the  mission- 
ary. Rev.  S.  Steele  was  warmly  received  by  the  peo- 
ple, and  well  sustained  in  his  efforts  to  build  up  the 
cause  of  Christ.  This  was  the  most  prosperous  year 
since  the  mission  commenced.  The  following  state- 
ment from  my  report  of  July  7th,  including  a  post- 
script, will  show  the  condition  of  this  charge : 

^' Eagle  River. — The  labors  of  Rev.  S.  Steele  have 
been  blessed  in  the  conversion  of  souls  and  the  build- 
ing up  of  the  Church.  The  people  have  done  nobly 
in  defraying  the  expenses  of  the  mission.  They  have 
raised  seventy-five  dollars,  missionary  money,  for  the 
purpose  of  commencing  a  German  mission  among 
them.  This  is  a  mission  evidently  demanded.  The 
German  population  is  more  numerous  than  any  other, 
and  the  labors  of  a  good  German  missionary  would 
tend  greatly  to  advance  the  cause  of  religion  about 
the  Lake.  I  hope  the  Missionary  Society  will  give 
us  encouragement  in  this  matter,  and  that  the  object 
may  be  brought  about  at  our  next  conference.  The 
Church  numbers  fifty  members  and  fifteen  probation- 
ers; the  Sabbath  school,  fifteen  officers  and  teachers, 
sixty-five  scholars,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  volumes 
in  library. 

^'P.  S.  I  have  just  received  a  letter  from  Rev.  S. 
Steele,  at  Eagle  river,  in  which  he  says:  'I  am  happy 


870  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

to  inform  you  that  the  Avork  of  grace,  which  has  been 
steadily  increasing  at  the  Cliff  Mine  for  months,  was 
quickened  bj  our  quarterly  meeting  exercises.  On 
the  following  Sabbath  evening,  under  the  preaching 
of  the  word,  there  was  a  general  weeping  all  over 
the.  house,  and  the  house  was  literally  jammed  to 
overflowing;  several  cried  aloud  for  mercy,  and  one 
professed  conversion  at  the  time.  Prayer  meetings 
have  been  held  nearly  every  night  during  the  week, 
and  several  are  converted.  Last  Sabbath  I  was  at 
the  north-west,  and  there  is  an  unusual  manifestation 
of  religious  feeling  in  that  location.' 

"Let  not  the  friends  of  missions  despair.  We  shall 
yet  gather  a  harvest  of  souls  on  the  shores  of  the 
Great  Lake.  J.  H.  P." 

Ontonagoji. — The  society  connected  with  this  mis- 
sion is  fluctuating.  It  numbers  about  twenty-five 
members.  No  special  outpouring  of  the  Spirit  has 
been  witnessed  on  the  mission;  and  yet  the  labors 
of  the  missionary,  Rev.  E.  H.  Day,  which  have  been 
arduous,  have  been  every-where  encouraged  by  the 
people.  He  has  been  well  sustained  in  his  work. 
The  people  there  will  v»\ant  next  year,  it  is  thought, 
tJiree  men,  instead  of  one;  two,  at  any  rate.  Brother 
Day  reports  three  Sunday  schools,  six  ofiicers  and 
teachers,  fifty  scholars,  and  two  hundred  volumes  in 
library. 

Carp  River. — This  was  the  first  year  of  sending 
a  missionary  to  this  station.     Here  are  the  great  iron 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  371 

mines  of  Lake  Superior.  Rev.  "William  Benson  ^Yas 
appointed  to  this  charge,  and  went  directly  on  with 
his  family.  But  the  failure  in  getting  up  supplies 
had  reduced  the  people  to  great  straits.  Several 
persons  left,  and  went  through  to  Bay  de  Noquette 
for  fear  of  starvation.  One  company  sent  most  of 
their  horses  through  for  want  of  feed.  Brother  Ben- 
son had  been  advised  to  leave,  and  had  about  con- 
cluded so  to  do,  but  determined  finally  to  stay.  lie 
says  that,  ''after  doing  so,  one  man  came  and  said 
I  need  take  no  thought;  he  had  enough  for  me." 
The  letter  bringing  this  intelligence  was  dated  No- 
vember 19th.  After  that,  very  late  in  the  season, 
providentially,  abundant  supplies  were  sent  to  Carp 
river.  Our  missionary  thought  that  he  found  Meth- 
odists here  of  the  "  old  stamp,"  all  of  whom  seemed 
disposed  to  aid  in  advancing  the  cause. 

Another  call. — "AYhy  don't  conference  send  us  a 
minister?"  Brother  Benson  took  passage  on  the 
Napoleon  in  moving  from  Eagle  river  to  Carp  river. 
The  boat  touched  at  Isle  Royal.  Several  of  the 
miners  situated  on  this  lonely  spot  met  him,  and 
asked  the  question  at  the  head  of  this.  Comment 
is  needless.  Toward  the  close  of  the  year  the  society 
numbered  rising  of  forty  members,  including  fifteen 
probationers.  A  very  encouraging  degree  of  success 
had  attended  the  labors  of  brother  Benson.  Be- 
tween the  Lake  shore  and  Baij  de  Noquette  there 
were  about  five  hundred  lumbermen,  whom  he  had 
visited  twice  during  the  winter.     They  were  calling 


!72 


LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 


loudly  for  help.  A  missionary  was  greatly  needed 
among  them.  Thus  it  is  seen  that  the  work  was 
gradually  enlarging  on  all  sides.  Carp  Kiver  re- 
ported one  Sunday  school,  eight  officers  and  teachers, 
thirty  scholars,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  volumes  in 
library. 

STATISTICS. 


f 

1. 

E 

12 
11 
15 
15 
53 

DAY   SCHOOLS. 

SL'NDAY     SCHOOLS. 

1 

1 

Vj 
> 

I 

£. 
= 

1 

5 

f 

F 

1 
1 

2 

1 

i 

19 
18 

37 

£ 
1" 

1 
5 

i 

f 
1 

I 

4 
5 
6 

15 

I 

• 

<! 

i 

1 

1 

60 
6 
47 
3 
51 
25 
29 

8'  "• 

34 

20 

... 



13 

1 

2 

"Whiter; 

9 
17 

1 
1 

2 

3 
1 

9 

Whites   

65 

50 

150 
200 

Eagle  River— Whites 

Ontonagon— Whites 

Carp  River— Whites 

$17  00 

4 

•• 

Total 

2'. 

n 

2« 

875 

$17  00 

18 

2 

P.  S.  These  statistics  will  be  found  to  differ  slightly  from  the  estimate 
made  in  the  -written  report.  These  last  have  been  corrected  by  the 
returns  from  the  missionaries,  presented  at  the  close  of  the  conference 
year. 

In  the  above  report  it  •will  be  seen  that  Fond  dn  Lac  and  Sandy  Lake 
are  not  enumerated.  The  Sandy  Lake  mission,  by  the  decision  of  the 
General  conference  which  sat  in  May  of  this  year,  fell  into  the  Wisconsin 
conference.  Fond  du  Lac  was  unavoidably  left  unsupplicd,  and  hence  nr, 
report  was  made. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE. 


373 


STATISTICS 

OF    THE   INDIAN    MISSION   DISTRICT,   EMBRACING   THE 
QUADRENNIAL   TERM   JUST   CLOSING. 


p 

NATION. 

'i 
f 

i 
f 

1 

2 

f 
? 

18 

15 
28 
11 
10 
23 
30 

SUNDAY   SCHOOLS. 

1 

I 

5 

6 
10 

1 

a 
1 

r 
g- 

p 

18 

32 
69 

w 

< 

i 

1 

O 

1 

1 

3 

=■ 

1 

1 

1 

2. 

1 

CO 

i 

% 

f 

1 

3 

o 
i 

1. 

i 

2. 
1 

1349  Indians 137 

141 

170 
305 

... 

•• 



" 

650  51 

148  85 

106  81 
157  25 

1850 
1851 
1852 

Inilians 

Whites 

Indians 

Whites 

Indians  

Whites 

101 
17 

106 
81 

107 

lU 

490 

560 
1,210 

2 

2 
5 

10 

60 

$31  80  12 

:::::!:: 

26  38  17 

65  00  18 

1 
2 

In  this  Statistical  account  I  have  followed  tlie 
printed  Minutes  of  the  Michigan  conference,  except 
in  the  membership  of  Carp  River,  for  1852.  An 
error  was  here  committed,  probably  t^^pographical, 
in  printing  "9"  for  "29/'  as  found  in  the  table  con- 
nected with  mj  report  of  August  23d,  as  given 
above. 

In  the  year  1848  the  Indian  membership  for  the 
district,  including  probationers,  was  one  hundred  and 
thirty-three.  From  this  it  appears  that  we  lost  three 
Indian  members  during  the  four  years.  But  it  must 
be  remembered  that  thirty-two  of  these  were  counted 
for  Fond  du  Lac  and  Sandy  Lake  in  1818.  Most 
of  these  were  on  trial  and  were  soon  dropped.  And 
from  the  calamities  and  fluctuations  connected  with 


874  LIGHTS  AXD  SHADES  OF 

those  outposts  tliej  ^ere  now  left  out  of  the  account. 
The  mission  at  Kewawenon  and  the  Indian  station, 
near  the  Saut,  were  favored  with  several  seasons  of 
spiritual  growth  and  prosperity,  as  the  reader  has  seern 
in  our  narrative.  That  we,  at  times,  suffered  losses 
is  no  less  a  fact,  though  painful  to  record.  I  have 
taken  pains  to  state  facts  as  I  find  them,  leaving  the 
indulgent  reader  to  his  own  reflections  as  to  their 
bearing. 

Amid  all  the  fluctuations  in  the  mining  population, 
and  the  obstacles  in  the  way  of  cultivating  this  new 
and  wihl  region,  our  white  membership  had  increased 
from  thirteen  to  one  hundred  and  forty-four.  As 
it  regards  other  particulars  the  facts  and  statistics 
above  given  speak  for  themselves. 


I 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  375 


CHAPTER   XXYII. 

JOURNEY    TO    THE    WISCONSIN    CONFERENCE- 
LEAVE    OF    THE    INDIAN    MISSION 
DISTRICT. 

I  HAD  received  a  communication  from  the  Corre- 
sponding Secretary  of  the  Missionary  Society,  Dr. 
Durbin,  calling  me  to  attend  the  "Wisconsin  confer- 
ence on  business  connected  with  the  missions.  It 
had  reference  to  the  transfer  made  by  the  General 
conference  of  Fond  du  Lac  and  Sandy  Lake  missions 
to  this  conference.  Monday,  23d,  with  my  wife  and 
daughter,  I  took  passage  on  the  steamer  London  for 
Detroit.  We  were  detained  nearly  all  night  at  brother 
Church's,  near  Garden  river,  to  wood.  Rev.  Mr. 
M'Dougall  and  his  wife,  missionaries  at  Garden  river, 
came  to  see  us,  and  spent  two  or  three  hours — a 
delightful  interview,  and,  perhaps,  the  last  we  were 
to  enjoy  together  in  this  world,  where  the  fondest  ties 
are  often  riven.  Tuesday,  at  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we 
touched  at  Mackinaw,  and  were  again  on  our  way, 
with  just  breeze  enough  to  cool  the  air  a  little,  which 
had  been  uncomfortably  warm.  The  following  record 
was  made  Wednesday,  25th:  "Lake  calm  all  night. 
We  had  a  comfortable  night's  rest.  Very  foggy 
this   morning.      We    are   across    Saginaw   Bay,   ten 


376  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

o'clock,  A.  M.,  and  the  fog  is  disappearing.  We 
have  a  fair  prospect  of  getting  over  Lake  Huron 
without  a  blow.  How  wonderfully  have  I  been  fa- 
vored all  summer,  thus  far,  in  traveling  on  the 
Lakes !  This  seems  to  call  loudly  for  gratitude^  es- 
pecially at  a  time  when  such  serious  accidents  are 
constantly  occurring.  We  just  received  word  before 
leaving  that  the  steamer  Atlantic  was  run  into  by  a 
propeller,  and  sunk,  with  a  loss  of  three  or  four  hun- 
dred lives.     How  dreadful  such  a  calamity ! 

"Another  conference  year,  with  its  labors  and  re- 
sponsibilities, is  about  closed.  I  have  experienced 
much  of  the  Divine  goodness  the  past  ^^ear.  Xo 
year  of  my  life  has  been,  I  think,  more  serene.  The 
light  of  God's  countenance,  in  the  midst  of  surround- 
ing darkness,  has,  in  general,  shone  brightly  upon 
my  pathway.  While  I  have  cause  for  devout  grati- 
tude, I  have  reason  to  mourn  over  my  own  unfaith- 
fulness, and  want  of  more  extended  usefulness.  But 
I  feel  fully  resolved  to  be  God's  for  time  and  for 
eternity.  0  for  a  new  consecration  to  the  work 
whereunto  God  has  called  me  !" 

Thursday  we  reached  Detroit,  and  spent  one  night 
in  the  city.  Friday  went  to  Toledo  on  the  steamer 
John  Owen,  and  stopped  at  Mrs.  Allen's,  sister  to 
my  wife.  The  cholera  was  raging  in  the  place,  and 
some  twenty  dying  daily.  It  was  confined  mostly 
to  emigrants,  and  persons  of  intemperate  habits. 

Saturday  we  reached  x\drian.  Here  found  our 
friends  in  pretty  good  health.     My  family  were  to 


I 


MISSIONARY    LIFE.  377 

remain  here  till  after  conference.  Rev.  J.  F.  David- 
son, pastor  of  the  First  Charge,  -was  confined  to  his 
bed  by  a  violent  attack  of  bilious  colic.  Some  of 
the  brethren  greeted  me  warmly,  and  requested  me 
to  supply  his  pulpit  on  the  coming  Sabbath,  -which 
I  did,  not  very  satisfactorily  to  myself.  But  the  peo- 
ple were  attentive,  and  I  trust  some  good  was  done. 
Great  changes  had  taken  place  here  since  my  first 
acquaintance  with  the  people,  in  the  fall  of  1836. 
Many  of  the  old  inhabitants  had  either  died  or  gone 
to  other  parts.  Some  who  were  then  children,  that 
I  had  often  dandled  upon  my  knees,  were  now  grown 
up  and  married.  From  a  thriving  village  the  place 
had  grown  up  to  a  city.  The  Church  had  also  greatly 
enlarged  her  borders.  But  those  early  days  were 
lialcyon  days  for  the  Methodist  Church  in  Adrian, 
the  bright  traces  of  which  were  still  left  in  the  mem- 
ory of  several  of  the  older  members,  and  to  which 
they  referred  with  delight.  Left  Adrian  Tuesday 
morning,  August  31st.  Passed  over  the  S.  M.  and 
N.  T.  railroad  to  Chicago.  "Wednesday  morning, 
September  1st,  left  Chicago  on  the  steamer  Baltic  for 
Sheboygan,  tS'here  we  arrived  Fafel}"  about  mi<lnight. 
Here  six  of  us  hired  a  private  express  for  Fond  du 
Lac,  the  seat  of  the  conference,  where  we  arrived 
before  eight  o'clock,  A.  M.,  on  Thursday.  After 
breakfast  I  found  my  way  to  the  conference,  Avhich 
was  in  session  in  the  new  ^letliodist  church — Bishop 
Ames  presiding.  The  conference  was  made  up  of  a 
hundred  or  more  members — a  fine-looking  set  of  men. 


378  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OP 

Almost  -without  exception  they  appeared  in  good 
health,  and  carried  in  their  bearing  the  marks  of 
sterling  men  for  the  itinerant  work.  I  soon  recog- 
nized in  the  company  my  old  friend  and  brother  from 
Ohio,  Rev.  E.  Yocum,  one  of  the  presiding  elders, 
by  whom,  before  the  session  closed,  I  was  introduced 
to  the  Bishop,  who  introduced  me  to  the  conference. 
I  was  glad  also  to  meet  here  Rev.  W.  H.  Sampson, 
whose  acquaintance  I  had  made  in  1838.  During 
my  sojourn  at  Fond  du  Lac  I  was  very  kindly  enter- 
tained in  the  pleasant  family  of  Dr.  Adams,  who  had 
under  his  roof,  among  others.  Rev.  C.  Hobert,  a 
leading  and  influential  member  of  the  conference. 
Brother  Hobert  was  now  in  the  pioneer  work  in 
Minnesota. 

The  time  spent  at  this  conference,  which  was  till 
the  next  Thursday  morning,  passed  very  agreeably, 
part  of  which  I  was  permitted  to  be  in  the  cabinet. 
The  business  of  the  conference,  in  general,  moved 
on  harmoniously.  The  anniversaries  and  seasons  of 
public  worship  were,  some  of  them,  seasons  of  much 
interest,  to  detail  which  is  not  my  business. 

Two  of  the  Sabbath  meetings  were  seasons  of  spir- 
itual profit,  not  soon  to  be  forgotten.  The  one  was 
the  conference  love-feast,  remarkable  for  the  number 
of  preachers  who  bore  a  clear  testimony  to  the  great 
blessing  of  perfect  love.  Methodism  has  nothing  to 
fear  so  long  as  her  preachers  preach  holiness,  and 
exemplify  it  in  their  experience  and  deportment. 

The  other  occasion,  which  proved  so  interesting  and 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  379 

profitable  to  many,  was  the  sermon  preached  in  the 
morning  by  Bishop  Ames.  His  text  was,  '-'Have 
faith  in  God.''  It  was  a  masterly  effort,  full  of 
heavenl}'  unction  and  miglity  power.  It  was  a  com- 
bination of  convincing  argument  and  happy  illustra- 
tion from  first  to  last — the  most  lucid  illustration  of 
Christian  faith  it  had  ever  been  my  privilege  to  hear. 
Infidelity  Avas  driven  from  its  retreat  back  to  its 
native  hell,  and  Christianity  stood  forth  in  strength 
.ind  grandeur,  robed  in  habiliments  of  loveliness  and 
attraction. 

The  Catholic  priest  was  making  quite  a  stir  here 
among  his  deluded  followers.  lie  held  meeting  all 
day  Thursday  and  Friday  after  our  arrival.  He  had 
erected  a  huge  cross,  Avhich  stood  in  the  center  of  a 
platform  about  eight  feet  high  and  five  or  six  feet 
square.  The  cross  was  adorned  with  ribbons  and 
tassels.  From  this  elevated  platform  he  harangued 
the  people  in  English  and  French  on  the  superior 
claims  of  the  Romish  faith,  performing  all  kinds  of 
gyrations  and  manipulations,  and  appeared  to  be  as 
much  in  earnest  as  if  the  destiny  of  his  Church 
hinged  upon  this  efi'ort.  It  was  a  complete  Jesuitical 
maneuver  to  keep  his  people — as  it  seemed  to  some 
of  the  spectators — from  under  the  influence  of  Meth- 
odism, which  was  evidently  annoying  to  liim.  A 
religion  which  needs  such  flummery  to  keep  it  in 
countenance,  is  in  striking  contrast  with  the  simple 
and  unostentatious  religion  taught  by  Christ  and  his 
apostles. 


880  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

I  left  the  seat  of  the  conference  in  company  with 
brother  Cox,  acting  agent  for  the  New  York  Book 
Concern,  via  Chicago.  I  arrived  at  Niles,  the  seat 
of  the  Michigan  conference,  by  noon  the  next  Satur- 
day. Here  I  had  a  most  pleasant  home  assigned  me, 
in  the  intelligent  and  kind  Christian  family  of  Mr. 
Laramour,  of  the  Presbyterian  Church.  My  home 
was  rendered  the  more  a^-reeable  by  havins;  Dr.  Kid- 
der  for  room-mate  two  or  three  days. 

The  next  day,  at  the  request  of  my  ministerial 
brethren,  I  preached  in  the  Congregational,  Meth- 
odist, and  Baptist  churches — once  in  each.  I  was 
blessed  in  bearing  the  standard  of  Christ  before  the 
people,  who  seemed  to  appreciate  the  blessings  of 
the  sanctuary. 

Conference  opened  on  the  following  Wednesday. 
Bishop  Scott  presided.  It  closed  on  Wednesday 
evening  of  the  22d.  It  was  one  of  the  most  har- 
monious and  agreeable  sessions  that  we  had  ever 
attended.  For  the  Bishop  and  presiding  elders  it 
was  a  very  laborious  session.  We  had  to  work  night 
and  day.  Toward  the  close  I  began  to  feel  the 
effects  of  such  incessant  toil  and  want  of  regular 
and  sufficient  sleep.  We  received  our  appointment 
to  the  Kalamazoo  station.  I  knew  but  little  about 
the  state  of  things  there,  except  a  hint  which  the 
presiding  elder  gave  me.  He  said  that  he  desired 
me  fo  go  there,  and  "pour  oil  on  the  troubled  waters." 
My  predecessor  had  left  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church  in  the  midst  of  the  year,  and  had  been  in- 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  381 

ducted,  by  the  imposition  of  Episcopal  hands,  into 
the  true  (?)  apoMical  (?)  succession ! 

I  noted  then  in  my  journal:  "I  feel  much  relieved 
in  mind  to  think  of  being  released  from  so  responsi- 
ble and  laborious  a  district  as  that  of  the  Indian 
mission.  I  have  prayed  earnestly  to  God  to  be  qual- 
ifie<l  for  my  new  charge.     0  for  grace  to  help'."' 

The  evening  on  which  conference  closed  I  crossed 
over  to  the  Southern  railroad  to  South  Bend,  Indiana. 
I  here  took  the  cars  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  and 
reached  Adrian  by  nine  o'clock  the  next  morning. 
It  seemed  desirable  that  we  should  spend  the  next 
Sabbath  at  our  new  charge.  On  Friday  morning, 
accompanied  by  my  family,  I  went  by  railroad  to 
Jonesville.  Here  I  hired  an  express  to  take  us 
across  to  Albion,  where  we  arrived  at  five  o'clock, 
P.  M.,  and  were  hospitably  entertained  under  the 
roof  of  my  old  friend,  Rev.  W.  H.  Brockway.  Sat- 
urday morning  I  was  permitted  to  visit  the  seminary, 
and  open  the  school  by  prayer.  I  had  the  privilege 
of  meeting  a  number  of  old  accjuaintances,  whom  I 
had  not  seen  in  some  years.  That  afternoon,  in  the 
midst  of  a  cold,  disagreeable  rain,  we  reached  Kala- 
mazoo, and  were  kindly  cared  for  under  the  roof  of 
brother  T.  Paige. 

Sabbath  I  was  introduced  to  my  new  charge,  and 
preached  twice  with  a  good  degree  of  liberty,  met 
the  general  class,  and  attended  the  Sunday  school. 

Monday,  September  2Tth,  at  one  o'clock,  A  M., 
I  took  leave  of  my  family  to  go   to   the  Saut  Sle. 


382  LIGHTS   AXD    SHADES   OF 

Marie  after  our  things.  I  was  detained  in  Detroit 
till  Wednesday  before  I  could  get  a  boat.  I  met  here 
my  brother  Joshua,  on  his  way  to  Lake  Superior, 
who  was  company  for  me  to  the  Said.  We  left 
Detroit  on  the  Northerner,  and  arrived  at  the  Saut 
on  Friday  about  noon.  We  had  a  rough  time  in 
crossing:  Sa^rinaw  Bay.  I  became  seasick,  the  effects 
of  which  I  felt  more  after  I  landed  than  while  on  the 
water.  That  afternoon  I  packed  my  books,  and  did 
what  I  could  to  get  our  things  ready  for  removal. 
Brother  Measures  and  wife,  missionaries  on  their 
way  to  Ontonagon,  brother  Marksman,  my  brother, 
and  myself  were  stopping  together  in  our  all  but 
deserted  homestead,  with  coarse  living  and  every  thing 
in  a  confused  and  transition  state.  At  night  I  was 
quite  sick — my  appetite  gone,  and  a  feeling  of 
faintness. 

Sabbath  was  to  us  a  day  of  quiet  rest.  Rev.  S. 
Steele  preached  to  us  in  the  morning,  from,  "  0,  taste 
and  see  that  the  Lord  is  good!"  The  food  was  sweet 
to  our  taste.  I  preached  my  farewell  sermon  in  the 
afternoon,  from  Acts  xx,  22-24,  to  an  attentive  audi- 
ence. Here  closed  our  efforts  in  this  interesting 
field.  Rev.  James  Shaw  was  appointed  on  the  dis- 
trict in  our  stead. 

"  Monday  I  had  our  things  all  boxed  up  and  down 
to  the  warehouse  shortly  after  noon.  I  now  parted 
with  my  brother  and  the  missionaries  bound  up  Lake 
Superior,  who  left  on  the  Manhattan. 

Having  emptied  the  house  of  our  movables,  I  fell 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  383 

down  upon  my  knees,  and  for  some  time  held  a  season 
of  hallowed  communion  with  God.  0,  what  scenes 
rushed  into  mv  mind!  The  events  of  the  four  years 
spent  on  the  district  all  seemed  to  be  present.  My 
own  want  of  faithfulness  tended  deeply  to  humble 
me.  The  trials  through  which  we  had  passed — the 
scenes  of  the  last  hours  with  our  dear  little  Henry, 
were  fresh  as  of  yesterday.  But,  0,  what  a  heavenly 
peace,  and  love,  and  joy  filled  my  soul!  I  could  real- 
ize that  ^'God  is  love."  I  felt  that  my  ransomed 
powers  were  consecrated  to  him.  Arising  from  my 
knees,  I  took  my  small  trunk  and  sachel  and  went 
to  the  Ste.  Marie  House,  where  Mr.  N.,  the  landlord, 
treated  me  with  every  attention  that  could  subserve 
my  comfort  or  convenience. 

Thursday  made  several  calls,  and  took  leave  of  old 
acquaintances.  Went  once  more  to  the  cemetery, 
where  repose  the  ashes  of  our  dear  Henry.  I  went 
there  not  to  repine  at  that  Providence  which  had 
bereaved  us,  but  to  contemplate  the  glorious  resur- 
rection morning,  when  the  mortal  of  our  dear  babe 
should  be  clad  with  immortality,  and  when  our  kin- 
dred, having  died  in  the  Lord,  "  though  sundered  far," 
and  scarcely  two  buried  in  one  graveyard,  should  be 
reunited,  and  be  forever  with  the  Lord.  Sweet  and 
hallowed  were  my  reflections  as  I  gazed,  it  may  be 
for  the  last  time,  on  the  tomb  of  our  little  innocent. 

Before   noon   we   left   the    Saut   on   the   London. 

We  were  favored  with  delightful  weather.     Beached 

Detroit  Thursday  morninn   before  nine  o'clock,  jusfc 

^32 


?>84  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

in  time  to  take  the  cars  for  Kalamazoo,  where  I 
arrived  at  four  o'clock,  P.  M.,  grateful  to  that 
Providence  who  had  kept  me  in  my  recent  journej- 
ings,  by  land  and  water,  of  more  than  two  thousand 
miles. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  385 


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

WIFE  AND  CHILDREN  OF  THE  MISSIONARY 
AMONG  THE  INDIANS. 

Woman  lias  been  found  generally  to  bear  her  equal 
share  of  the  toils,  responsibilities,  privations,  and  dan- 
c^ers  connected  with  the  stru^rsfles  of  the  nation  or  of 

O  CO 

the  Church.  A  work  professing  to  delineate  the 
phases  of  mission  life  among  our  aboriginal  tribes, 
would  be  defective  without  at  least  a  chapter  on  the 
part  which  woman,  surrounded  bj  her  children,  is 
called  to  act  in  so  noble  an  undertaking  as  the  evan- 
gelization of  this  interesting  portion  of  the  human  race. 
There  is  much  of  romance  in  the  first  intervievrs  of 
a  stranger  with  the  Indians.  The  Christian  ladij — 
which  we  must  take  to  be  true  of  the  missionary's 
wife — in  taking  up  her  residence  at  an  Indian  mission, 
finds  herself  environed  by  sights,  and  sounds,  and 
influences,  to  her  entirely  new  and  strange.  The  con- 
versation of  the  inhabitants  is  about  as  intelligible  to 
her  as  the  chattering  of  birds.  She  may  have  half 
a  dozen  associates  of  her  own  lani^ua^e  and  manner 

CD  C 

of  life.  Perhaps  she  is  alone,  except  the  members  of 
her  own  family.  Often  she  finds  herself  the  only 
white  female  in  the  house  of  worship.  At  first  there 
is   a   peculiar    charm  about  all   the   exercises  of  the 


386  LIGHTS    AND    SHADES   OF 

sanctuary.  Tlie  preaching  through  an  interpreter — 
the  songs  of  praise  Avhich  ^vell  up  out  of  "uarin 
Christian  liearts,  in  an  unknown  tongue — the  devout 
prayer,  though  unintelligible,  except  by  the  magnetic 
prower  of  the  Spirit's  influence,  ^vhich,  \vhen  it  moves 
one  heart,  by  a  well-known  sympathetic  influence, 
touches  a  spring  which  causes  every  other  devout 
heart  to  vibrate  in  unison,  whatever  be  the  lan- 
guage— the  story  of  the  cross,  as  related  by  these 
children  of  nature — the  subdued  meekness  of  ex- 
pression, and  the  scalding  tears,  which  often  chase 
each  other  down  over  brawny  faces — all  these,  and 
many  other  things,  operate  like  a  charm,  and  move 
the  tender  sympathies  of  the  female  heart. 

But  the  spell  is  at  length  broken.  With  all  the 
holy  influences  connected  with  such  scenes,  they  be- 
gin to  wear  an  aspect  of  monotony.  Thought  is 
busy  within,  as  she  casts  around  her  and  feels  like  a 
speckled  bird,  in  the  midst  of  a  strange  people. 
With  the  speed  of  lightning,  thought  wings  its  flight 
across  lakes,  forests,  and  plains.  Her  body  is  on 
mission  ground,  but  her  mind  is  with  loved  ones  *'far, 
far  away."  The  influences  of  the  sanctuary,  in  her 
native  land,  where  every  thing  had  free  course,  in  her 
own  tongue,  rush  into  her  mind  unbidden*,  and  uncon- 
sciously she  falls  into  the  pious  meanings  of  the 
royal  Psalmist :  "  How  can  we  sing  the  Lord's  song 
in  a  strange  land?  If  I  forget  thee,  0  Jerusalem,  let 
my  right  hand  forget  her  cunning.  If  I  do  not  re- 
member thee,  let  my  tongue  cleave  to  the  roof  of 


MISSIOXAKY  LIFE.  387 

my   mouth;   if    I   prefer   not   Jerusalem    above    my 
chief  joy." 

Her  domestic  cares  are  onerous  and  trying.  In 
the  nature  of  things  she  must  often  be  left  to  servo 
alone.  But,  if  every  thing  else  diflfers  about  her,  she 
must  have  her  household  regulations  as  much  after 
the  old  sort  as  possible.  She  has,  it  may  be,  just 
performed  her  kitchen  duties.  "With  the  complai- 
sance Avont  to  characterize  woman,  after  her  floor  is 
well  scoured  and  every  thing  in  trim,  she  catches  up 
her  knitting  or  sewing,  and  is  just  about  to  have  a 
little  respite  from  more  active  toil.  But  just  now 
half  a  dozen,  perhaps  a  dozen,  Indians  come  to  the 
door,  and,  without  knocking,  open  the  door  and  walk 
in  as  though  they  were  lords  of  the  concern.  The 
men  usually  become  seated  in  a  chair.  Often  the 
women,  with  their  papooses,  squat  upon  the  floor, 
where  it  is  most  convenient.  The  men  fill  their  long 
pipes  with  tobacco,  and  Mn-i-kin-ick,  a  leaf  which 
they  use  for  smoking,  or,  as  a  substitute,  they  often 
use  the  bark  of  red  alder.  Now,  for  some  time,  it 
is  puff  and  spit.  The  lady  of  the  house  must  screw 
up  her  olfactories  to  the  utmost,  and  then  if  she  do 
not  cast  some  meaning  side  glances  at  her  insulted 
floor,  as  though  she  sympathized  with  it,  it  is  because 
she  do  n't  know  how. 

But  now  comes  the  important  part  of  the  scene 
before  us.  One  of  these  consequential  personages 
volunteers  to  become  the  speaker  for  the  rest.  He 
begins:  "- Ka-gate,  ncc-je,  ah-pi-che  nc-huk-a-da-min. 


388  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

Kali-ga-go  Jco-hoosli^  hai'Ji-ga-go pali-qua-zhe-gim^  JcaJi- 
ga-go  mon-dali-mhi,  kah-ga-go  hee-go^  me  sith  ah-noge 
ka-go  mej-e-um,  kah-we-ah.  Ka-gate  ah-pi-cke  sun- 
ak-gut!  Ak-pa-gisk,  oiee-je,  pun-ge  p>a]i-qua-zkc-gun^ 
ki-ya  ko-koosk^^  etc.  In  plain  English  :  "  Indeed,  my 
friend,  we  are  very  hungry.  We  have  no  pork,  no 
bread,  no  potatoes,  no  corn,  no  fish,  and  so  of  every 
thing  else.  "We  have  no  provision  of  any  kind.  In- 
deed this  is  very  hard!  I  desire,  friend,  that  ^^ou 
would  give  us  some  bread  and  pork."  If  this  can 
not  be  afforded,  something  else  is  desired  as  a  sub- 
stitute. What  is  to  be  done  now?  In  sympathy  to 
the  hungry,  the  missionary's  wife  brings  forth  what 
is  left  of  the  last  baking,  something  else  is  added, 
to  stop  this  clamor  for  a  morsel  of  food,  and  the 
hungry  are  sent  away  with  a  glad  heart.  As  they 
take  their  leave  their  benefactress  bethinks  herself 
that  her  domestic  cares  were  not  lessened  by  the  short 
stay  of  these  visitors.  The  picture  here  drawn  does 
not  apply  to  those  Indians  who  have  availed  them- 
selves of  the  benefits  of  missionary  teaching  to  any 
considerable  degree.  These  are  mostly  honorable  ex- 
ceptions. But  this  sketch  is  neither  overdraAvn  nor 
of  rare  occurrence. 

The  Christian  matron  finds  it  a  difficult  thing  to 
train  up  her  children  aright  surrounded  by  such  in- 
fluences. Her  little  ones  are  at  the  very  age  when 
impressions  are  indelibly  made.  In  the  school  there 
is  nothing  to  excite  to  emulation.  The  missionary's 
children,  having  the  advantage  of  their  mother  tongue, 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  389 

are  generally  in  advance  of  the  other  scholars,  and 
are  rather  held  in  check  than  aided  by  their  asso- 
ciates. Children  must  have  playmates.  If  they  can 
have  no  others,  they  soon  contract  an  intimacy  for 
the  Indian  children,  rapidly  learn  their  language, 
and  slide  imperceptibly  into  many  of  their  habits. 
To  guard  against  such  an  evil,  and  to  secure,  as  far 
as  possible,  a  correct  training,  imposes  no  small 
charcre  on  the  wife  of  the  missionary. 

With  her  husband  she  becomes  a  partner  in  the 
great  field  of  evangelical  labor,  and,  to  the  extent 
of  her  ability,  becomes  a  teacher  of  civilization  in  the 
management  of  her  domestic  relations.  A  stranger 
will  soon  be  struck  with  the  difference  between  the 
progress  made  in  housewifery  by  the  Indian  women 
at  our  stations  and  those  at  Catholic  stations.  The 
comparison  is  greatly  in  favor  of  the  former.  This 
is  owing,  in  a  very  great  degree,  to  the  example  set 
the  natives  by  our  female  missionaries. 

IN'ot  the  least  of  her  privations  are  the  seasons 
of  her  husband's  often  long  absence.  Her  condition  is 
most  lonely,  having  often  scarcely  any  about  her  but 
natives,  and,  perchance,  many  of  these  untamed  and 
ferocious  in  their  appearance — enough  to  frighten  a 
delicate  female,  unless  possessed  of  undaunted  cour- 
age. Added  to  this,  she  can  not  be — she  is  not — 
unmindful  of  exposures  and  perils  of  her  husband, 
as  he  spends  wearisome  days  and  nights  in  the  wintery 
forest,  or  encounters  storms?on  the  raging  deep.  A 
missionary's  wife  thus  writes  to  her  husband  when 


390  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OE 

many  miles  had  separated  them:  ^^  Bear  Hush  and,— 
I  received  yours  from  Eagle  River,  and  also  from 
La  Pointe.  We  are  all  well,  and  feel  thankful  for 
the  blessing  of  health.  Never  did  I  spend  a  more 
anxious  Sabbath  than  the  one  after  you  left.  1  knew 
you  must  have  a  very  hard  time,  which  proved  to 
be  true.  I  can  assure  you  tliat  night  was  a  very 
lonely  one  to  me.  I  went  to  bed,  but  not  to  sleep. 
]\ly  prayer  was  that  the  Lord  would  deliver  you. 
How  good  the  Lord  is  to  those  that  put  their  trust 
in  him!  Brother  J.  said  I  might  rest  assured  you 
were  under  White  Fish  Point.  It  was  not  any  con- 
solation to  me.  I  never  saw  the  river  [Ste.  Marie] 
in  such  motion  as  it  was  that  day."  ^ 

The  feelings  of  a  missionary's  wife  in  her  lonely 
hours  may  be  seen  in  the  following  brief  extract  from 
a  letter  to  her  husband:  '^I  have  never  missed  you 
as  much  as  I  have  this  time.  I  felt  very  uneasy 
about  you  after  your  leaving.  Every  thing  looked 
gloomy." 

What  made  those  hours  more  lonely  was,  that 
at  such  times  disease  stealthily  found  its  way  occa- 
sionally into  the  family  circle,  piercing  loved  one? 
with  painful,  if  not  fatal,  darts. 

But  she  whose  position  we  are  now  viewing  be- 
comes the  traveler.  Her  sphere  is  not  local,  at  least 
for  any  length  of  time.     If  you  would  test  her  reso- 


*  Reference  is  "here  made  to  the  stormy  Sabbatli  I  spent  on  the  pro- 
peller Independence  described  above. 


MISSIOXART   LIFE.  393 

lution,  her  courage  in  danger,  and  lier  fortitude  in 
the  hour  of  suffering,  you  must  accompany  her,  per- 
haps with  the  infant  in  her  arms,  as  she  coasts,  for 
days  and  weeks  together,  in  the  frail  bu'chen  canoe, 
over  noisy  waves,  beneath  the  scalding  sun,  the 
drenching  rain,  or  falling  snow;  view  her  as  she 
sits  thoughtfully  beside  her  camp-fire,  amid  the  wild 
scenes  around  her.  It  may  be  her  fortune  to  meet 
the  fury  of  the  dashing  and  foaming  rapids,  or  to  be 
hurried  down  them  with  wild  excitement,  amid  dan- 
gerous rocks  or  jutting  crags.  And,  anon,  she  is 
seen  trudging  in  mud  knee-deep  across  land  port- 
ages. Old  Humphry  sets  down  as  an  exaggerated 
expression,^  wading  in  mud  "knee-deep."  His  re- 
mark is  doubtless  true  where  it  was  designed  to  ap- 
ply; but  if  any  person  will  cross  the  Savan  Portage, 
without  getting  knee-deep  in  the  slough,  he  must  be 
remarkable  for  dexterity  as  a  pedestrian. 

We  must  view  our  heroine — for  such  she  may  be 
justly  styled,  in  the  best  sense  of  the  term — from 
one  or  two  other  stand-points.  "We  must  go  to  some 
of  the  remoter  inland  stations.  Here  heathenism  is 
seen  yielding  its  legitimate  fruits  in  abundance. 
Here  are  scenes  so  revolting  that  the  eye  of  hu- 
manity turns  away  and  weeps.  Here  are  sights  that 
move  to  pity  and  yearning  commiseration;  cold,  na- 
kedness, and  hunger — sickness,  pain,  and  "anguish. 
Death  strews  his  victims  around,  without  pity,  and 
the  grave  opens  to  receive  them,  if  perchance  their 

bones  are  not  left  bleaching  on  the  ground.     Some 

33 


394  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

such  scenes  have  been  before  given.  Here  is  added 
an  extract  from  a  letter,  written  to  my  wife  by  Mrs. 
Rev.  S.  Spates,  of  Sandy  Lake  mission,  dated  Janu- 
ary 31,  1850.  If  the  reader  can  peruse  it  unmoved, 
'  e  is  more  of  a  stoic  than  the  writer : 

"Dear  Sister  Pitezel, — I  have  long  been  want- 
ino-  to  write  to  you,  but  have  never  taken  my  pen  in 
hand  to  do  so  till  now.  We  are  all  well  at  present ; 
and  truly,  I  think,  I  feel  thankful  to  the  Giver  of 
every  good  and  perfect  gift  for  this  great  blessing ; 
for  never  was  there  a  time  when  it  was  more  import- 
ant for  us  to  have  good  Jiealth  for  the  performance  of 
the  duties  that  devolve  on  us  than  at  present. 

"The  Indians,  or  at  least  many  of  them,  at  this 
place,  lost  all  their  gardens  last  summer  by  the  great 
freshet,  and,  from  the  same  cause,  the  wild  rice  crop 
was  entirely  destroyed  in  this  region,  and,  conse- 
quently, there  is  quite  a  famine  among  them.  There 
are  several  large  families  here  who  have  not  a  pound 
of  provision,  and  their  only  chance  to  get  any  tiling 
is  to  cut  holes  in  the  ice  and  try  to  take  fish  with  a 
hook,  for  the  water  is  not  clear  enough  to  spear  them. 
If  they  succeed,  they  have  something  to  eat;  if  not, 
they  must  wrap  up  in  their  blankets,  and  lie  down, 
amid  the  cries  of  their  hungry  children,  to  pass  the 
night  without  food. 

"  Formerly,  when  the  rice  crop  was  cut  off,  they 
could  live  by  hunting.  But  this  winter  they  all  say 
there  are  very  few  tracks  of  any  kind  of  animals  to 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  395 

be  seen,  so  few  tliat  tliey  have  almost  entirely  given 
up  hunting.  But  the  Indians  at  this  place  are  not 
alone  in  their  suffering.  All  the  Indians  north  of 
us,  as  far  as  -we  have  been  able  to  learn,  are  in  a  still 
Avorsc  condition.  They  are  not  only  hungry,  but  are 
almost  naked.  The  rabbits,  previous  to  this  Avinter, 
have  always  been  very  numerous  in  that  part  of  the 
country,  and,  as  their  lands  have  not  been  purchased 
Ly  Government,  they,  of  course,  have  no  annuities 
from  that  source,  and  their  principal  clothing  has 
been  made  of  the  skins  of  rabbits,  and  their  flesh 
was  their  main  dependence  for  food.  But  this  winter 
there  were  no  rabbits  to  be  had,  and  it  is  to  be  feared 
that  a  great  many  of  these  poor  Indians  must  perish 
with  hunger  and  cold  before  spi^ng.  You  can  better 
imagine  than  I  can  describe  our  feelings,  when,  a 
few  days  since,  a  ivJiole  hand  of  these  poor,  starving, 
naked  creatures  made  their  *  appearance  among  us. 
They  were  scarcely  able  to  walk.  A  few  of  the 
strongest  ones  came  several  days  before  the  others. 
They  said  they  had  eaten  nothing  for  eight  days. 
After  recruiting  a  day  or  two,  they  procured  a  little 
provision,  and  started  back  to  meet  the  others.  "When 
they  reached  them,  they  were  so  far  gone  that  they 
would  walk  a  few  steps  and  fall  down.  After  eating, 
however,  they  gathered  strength,  and  all  reached  here 
alive.  But  how  all  the  Indians  that  are  here  now  are 
to  live  till  spring  I  can  not  tell.  To  all  human  ap- 
pearance, some  of  them  must  starve  to  death.  The 
Lord  blessed  us   with  a  fine  crop   of  potatoes  last 


396  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

fall,  amounting  to  nearly  three  hundred  bushels.  By 
cooking  potatoes,  we  are  able  to  feed  a  good  many 
of  them.  We  generally  give  away  from  ten  to  thirty 
portions  a  day,  besides  what  we  let  them  have  to 
take  away  with  them.  Within  the  past  month  we 
have  thus  fed  between  three  and  four  hundred  In- 
dians. 

^'But  this  seems  to  effect  but  little  toward  reliev- 
ing their  sufferings.     I  frequently  think  if  our  good 
Christian  brethren  could  be  with  us,  and  witness  with 
what  gratitude  they  receive  a  little  food,  and   have 
them  beg  for  every  thing  in  their  sight,  even  to  the 
potato   peelings,  and   see  with  what   eagerness   they 
gather  up  the   smallest  pieces — could  they  see  how 
stupid,  ignorant,  filtliy,  and  degraded  they  are— could 
they,  in   a  word,  behold   the  image   of  their  blessed 
Lord  in  such  ruins,  such  dreadful  ruins,  as  we  here 
behold  it,  their  purse-strings  would  be  unloosed,  tears 
of  sympathy  would  flow  freely  from  their  eyes,  their 
interest  for  the  cause  of  missions  among  the  heathen 
would  be  greatly  increased,  and  the  burden  of  their 
prayer  would  be,  0   Lord,  send  forth  speedily  more 
laborers  into  thy  harvest !     There  are  hundreds,  per- 
haps  thousands,  of  poor   Lidians   in  this   wilderness 
who  have  never  heard  the  name  of  Jesus.     My  eyes 
overflow  with  tears  at  this  thought ;  and  unless  they 
are   soon   Christianized   and  taught  to   cultivate   the 
soil,  they  must  soon  become  extinct ;  for  game,  which 
is  their  principal  source  of  subsistence,  is  becoming 
scarcer  every  year." 


3IISSI0NAIIY   LIFE.  397 

This  lengthy  and  touching  extract  shoTN'S  "^ith  T^hat 
feelings  the  missionary's  mfe  looks  upon  the  phys- 
ical, intellectual,  and  moral  destitution  around  her; 
how  hor  noble  and  generous  sympathies  bound  to 
meet  those  crying  wants,  and  how  her  hands  act  in 
concert  to  deal  out  bread  to  the  hungry ;  thus  to  be- 
come eyes  to  the  blind,  and  feet  to  the  lame.  I  think 
of  several  female  missionaries,  who  have  spent  years 
in  that  remote  region,  a  delineation  of  whose  labors 
and  sufferings  for  the  cause  of  Christ  would  be  in- 
valuable to  the  Church.  Their  own  pen  could  make 
the  record. 

THE   FAMINE. 

"  0  the  long,  the  dreary  winter  I 
0  the  cold  and  cruel  winter  I 
Ever  thicker,  thicker,  thicker, 
Froze  the  ice  on  lake  and  river, 
Ever  deeper,  deeper,  deeper, 
Fell  the  snow  o'er  all  the  landscape. 
Fell  the  covering  snow,  and  drifted 
Through  the  forest— round  the  village ; 
Hardly  from  his  buried  wigwam 
Could  the  hunter  force  a  passage  ; 
With  his  mittens  and  his  snow-shoes 
Yainly  walked  he  through  the  forest, 
Sought  for  bird,  or  beast,  and  found  none, 
Saw  no  track  of  deer  or  rabbit. 
In  the  snow  beheld  no  fcot-prints  ; 
In  the  ghastly,  gleaming  forest 
Fell,  and  could  not  rise  from  weakness- 
Perished  there  from  cold  and  hunger." 

Song  of  Hiawatha,  pp.  262-3, 


398  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

INDIAN   CHARACTERISTICS. 

The  reader  may  be  disappointed  if  he  should  not 
find,  in  a  work  of  this  kind,  a  chapter,  at  least,  devoted 
to  some  of  the  leading  features  Tshich  indelibly  stamp 
the  Indian  character.  It  must  be  confessed  that  the 
subject  is  a  difficult  one  to  treat  properly,  and  this  is 
the  more  so  within  the  narrow  limits  assigned  to 
these  remarks. 

The  Indian  is  wont  to  look  back  to  palmy  days,  in 
his  traditional  history,  when  his  people  could  boast  of 
numbers  and  of  prowess ;  when,  comparatively  free 
from  diseases,  they  were  rapidly  increasing;  when 
they  could  rally  numerous  braves,  fitted,  by  training, 
for  the  chase,  or  for  war.  They  think  of  their  once 
vast  forests,  rich  and  luxuriant,  and  abounding  with 
game — of  their  lakes  and  rivers,  filled  with  the  finny 
tribes.  They  contemplate,  with  sorrow  and  dejection, 
the  joyous  days,  when  contact  with  the  "pale  faces" 
had  not  introduced  among  them  various  pestilences 
and  epidemics,  by  which  their  thriving  settlements 
were  fast  depopulated — of  those  days  when  they  had 
not  come  in  contact  with  the  worse  pestilence  of 
their  peculiar  vices,  to  fill  up  the  measure  of  their 
already  corrupt  and  sinful  moral  being. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  399 

To  form  a  correct  view  of  Indian  cliaracter  some- 
thing more  is  requisite  than  the  passing  glance  of 
the  traveler.  There  is  danger  here  of  forming  a 
hasty  judgment,  and  drawing  "pen  and  ink  sketches," 
life-like  though  they  may  be,  as  imaginary  portraits, 
yet  fail  to  reflect  the  original,  TVe  look  in  vain  into 
the  dense  shades  of  the  wilderness,  the  home  of  the 
red  man,  for  those  marks  of  greatness  to  be  found 
amono;  manv  other  nations.     We  see  not  smilino;  fields 

CD  t/  O 

waving  with  golden  harvests.  Vainly  do  we  look  for 
thrifty  villages  and  populous  cities,  with  the  din  and 
bustle  of  business,  and  the  ebbing  and  flowing  tide 
of  commerce.  The  school,  the  college,  the  church, 
and  the  legislative  assembly  greet  not  the  eye  of  the 
beholder.  All  is  the  wildness  and  ruggedness  of  na- 
ture, untamed  and  unsubdued.  The  highest  achieve- 
ment af  skill  in  the  mechanic  art  is  to  construct  the 
rude  wigwam,  the  snow-shoe,  or  the  birchen  canoe. 
The  steamboat  has  not  found  its  way  into  the  deep 
and  broad  river,  nor  has  the  flying  locomotive,  the 
ish-Jiii-fa-o-dau-bo7i,  the  fire- wagon,  sped  its  way  over 
the  wide  domain.  The  printing-press,  Herschel's 
telescope,  and  the  electric  telegraph  would  be  alike 
useless  to  this  rude  people.  Vainly  we  look  for  the 
philosopher,  the  historian,  the  discoverer,  the  inventor, 
the  man  of  genius. 

It  would  seem  to  be  a  natural  inference,  from  such 
evidences,  that  the  Indians  are  a  very  inferior  race; 
tliat,  intellectually,  they  are  far  below  most  other 
nations.     As  an  existing  and  general  fact,  it  can  not 


400  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

Le  called  in  question  that,  in  many  respects,  they 
are  inferior  to  their  white  neighbors.  In  point  of 
knowledge  they  confess  themselves  to  be  but  mere 
children  compared  with  others.  As  men,  they  would 
be  slow  to  admit  that  they  were  inferior  to  the  proud- 
est monarch. 

But  this  admission  is  not  sufiScient  proof  of  real 
inferiority  in  native  talent  and  capability.  It  has  re- 
sulted rather  from  want  of  opportunity  to  develop 
existing  talent.  Powers  of  body  or  mind  unused 
soon  become  imbecile.  It  can  not  be  doubted  that 
the  tendency  of  all  the  scenes  and  associations  sur- 
rounding the  untutored  Indian  is  to  barbarism,  to  a 
savage  state.  It  is  a  tendency  downward.  Every 
thing  tends  to  depress  and  degrade  fallen  humanity 
to  a  deeper  degradation,  socially,  intellectually,  and 
morally.  Let  these  opposing  influences  operate  unre- 
strained for  untold  ages,  and  what  must  be  the  nec- 
essary result? 

The  tendency  of  these  influences  is  demonstrated 
in  the  fact  that,  in  numerous  instances,  where  people 
of  other  nations  have  taken  up  their  abode  with  the 
Indians,  they  have  gradually  adopted  their  manners 
and  customs.  It  requires,  in  such  cases,  only  two  or 
three  generations  to  bring  them  down  to  the  level! 
of  their  barbarous  neighbors.  What  then  can  we 
expect  of  the  Indian  in  the  midst  of  his  darkness  and 
barbarism  ? 

But  with  such  names  to  enliven  the  page  of  Indian 
history  as  Pjntiac,  Blue  Jacket,  Osceola,  Logan,  Te- 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  401 


cumseli,  and  Black-Hawk/-'  who  can  question  the  high 
intellectual  capability  of  the  tribes  they  represent? 
Under  more  favorable  auspices,  many  of  them  would 
have  been  the  patrons  of  the  arts  and  sciences,  their 
eloquence  would  have  resounded  in  the  forum,  and 
the  wisdom  of  their  statesmen  would  have  rendered 
venerable  their  legislative  assemblies.  The  lines  of 
the  poet  may  apply  truthfully  to  the  untutored 
Indian : 

"  Full  many  a  flower  is  bom  to  blush  unseen, 
And  waste  its  fragrance  on  the  desert  air." 


In  many  examples  in  Indian  history  we  have  some 
of  the  finest  specimens  of  impassioned  eloquence  on 
record.  For  striking  and  beautiful  imagery,  terse  and 
forcible  illustration,  and  deep  pathos,  where  shall  we 
look  for  better  examples?  Than  this  fact  alone  no 
better  evidence  could  be  afforded  of  a  high  order 
of  intellect.  The  book  of  the  Indian  orator  is  al- 
ways spread  out  before  him.  He  draws  his  illustra- 
tions from  the  sun,  moon,  and  stars,  and  the  firmament 
which  environs  him  like  a  great  wigwam.  Forests 
and  mountains,  beasts,  birds,  fishes,  and  reptiles,  riv- 
ers, lakes,  and  oceans,  furnish  him  with  appropriate 
metaphors  and  striking  comparisons.  A  few  brief 
specimens  must  suffice. 


*To  this  list  may  be  added  such  names  as  Mononcue,  Between-tho- 
Logs,  John  Sunday,  and  Peter  Jones,  among  the  Christianized  Indians. 
These  were  men  capable  of  standing  in  the  presence  of  governors  and 
kings. 


402  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

The  following  brief  speech  was  made  by  Sastarexj, 
chief  of  the  Hurons,  to  La  Motte,  the  French  com- 
mandant at  Detroit.  It  had  reference  to  the  o-ivinor 
up,  on  the  part  of  the  Outawas,  of  Le  JPesant,  called 
The  Bear^  to  atone  for  his  murderous  acts  among 
the  Miamis.  Sastarexy  did  not  believe  that  this 
great  bear,  so  dreaded  by  the  Indians,  would  be  given 
into  their  hands.  He  was  for  wreakins;  his  venc-eance 
on  some  of  the  enemy  that  were  at  hand.  Le  Pesant 
was  at  Mackinaw.  He  addressed  La  Motte  as  fol- 
lows : 

''- 3Iy  Father^ — Let  us  say  to  you  that  we  can 
not  believe  that  the  Outawas  will  do  what  they  have 
promised;  for  who  is  he  that  can  overturn  so  great 
a  tree,  [Le  Pesant]  whose  roots,  they  themselves 
say,  are  so  deep  in  the  earth,  and  whose  branches 
extend  over  all  the  lakes  ?  There  is  meat  here ;  why 
go  farther  to  seek  it?  One  is  certain,  the  other  is 
uncertain."     (Sheldon's  Early  Hist.  Mich.,  p.  225.) 

The  following  is  the  closing  of  a  speech  made  by 
Logan,  a  chief  of  the  Cayugas,  after  all  his  relatives 
had  been  murdered  in  cold  blood,  without  provocation, 
by  Colonel  Cresap,  a  white  man : 

"  There  runs  not  a  drop  of  my  blood  in  the  veins 
of  any  living  creature.  This  called  on  me  for  re- 
venge. I  have  sought  it.  I  have  killed  many.  I 
have  fully  glutted  my  vengeance.  For  my  country  I 
rejoice  at  the  beams  of  peace;  but  do  not  harbor  a 
thought  that  mine  is  the  joy  <5f  fear.  Logan  never 
felt  fear.     He  will  not  turn  on  his  heel  to  save  his 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  403 

life.  Who  is  there  to  mourn  for  Logan?  Xot  onel" 
(Frost's  Indian  Wars,  page  153.) 

The  following  is  Black-Hawk's  speech,  after  he 
had  f\iiled  to  effect  the  deliverance  of  his  people: 
^'Farewell,  my  nation!  Black-Hawk  tried  to  save 
YOU,  and  revenge  your  wrongs.  He  drank  the  blood 
of  some  of  the  whites.  He  has  been  taken  prisoner, 
and  his  flames  are  stopped.  He  can  do  no  more. 
He  is  near  his  end.  His  sun  is  setting,  and  he  will 
rise  no  more.  Farewell  to  Black-Hawk."  (Ibid., 
page  267.) 

The  Indians  are  imitative  beings.  The  ingenuity 
and  skill  they  display  in  making  their  nets,  snow- 
shoes,  and  birch  canoes,  under  proper  tuition,  will 
enable  them  to  excel  as  mechanics.  The  skill  of  the 
women  in  weaving  mats  and  sacks  and  making  fancy 
articles  of  birch  bark,  which  they  ornament  with  col- 
ored porcupine  quills  and  painted  figures,  and  their 
fine  specimens  of  bead-work,  show  that  they  can 
readily  learn  to  manufacture  clothes  and  fancy  arti- 
cles with  the  needle.  Their  susceptible  progress  in 
the  various  arts  of  civilization  might  be  shown  by 
numerous  interesting  facts,  which  it  would  be  tedious 
to  relate  here. 

Some  of  the  most  striking  features  of  Indian  char- 
acter, as  all  their  history  attests,  are  love  of  liberty 
and  independence,  intrepidity  in  the  chase  or  in  war, 
generosity  to  strangers,  patient  endurance  of  fatigue, 
cold,  and  hunger,  feelings  of  revenge  for  v>-rong3  suf- 
fered, fortitude  in  the  midst  of  perils,  and  contempt 


404  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES    OF 

of  death.  See  this  last  remark  illustrated  in  Logan's 
speech. 

But  a  picture  of  Indian  character  can  not  be  drawn 
without  some  dark  lines.  Much  of  Indian  history  is 
a  history  of  wars.  These  are  marked,  in  many  in- 
stances, by  savage  ferocity  and  by  acts  of  cruelty 
and  inhumanity  almost  without  parallel,  unless  it  is 
to  be  found  in  the  treatment  they  have  received  from 
their  enemies.  Mr.  Frost,  in  speaking  of  the  Indian 
wars  in  the  time  of  the  American  Revolution,  says, 
"The  whole  course  of  the  contest  maintained  between 
the  Indians  and  the  Americans,  had  been  marked  by 
an  excess  of  cruelty  almost  unparalleled  in  the  annals 
of  war.  Women  and  children  were  put  to  death  as 
mercilessly  as  those  in  arms."  (Page  181.)  The 
Indians  have  often  proved  treacherous  to  their  best 
friends.  And  yet  it  would  be  hard  to  prove  from 
this  that  treachery  characterizes  them  as  a  people. 
They  have  often,  at  such  times,  been  influenced  by 
their  more  knowing  false  friends  and  ill  advisers,  to 
whom  they  have  looked  for  counsel.  In  extenuation 
of  the  cruelty  of  the  Indians  toward  others,  it  may 
be  stated  that  they  have  seldom  been  the  aggressors, 
and  have  often  suffered  much  before  they  have  sought 
for  revenge.  But  when  once  the  fires  of  revenge 
have  been  kindled,  they  have  exhibited  more  of  the 
ratj^e  of  demons  than  the  reason  of  men. 

Among  the  Indians,  woman  is  degraded  far  beneath 
her  appropriate  sphere.  The  term  uwman  is  one  of 
reproach.     To  act  meanly  and  cowardly  is  to  act  the 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  405 

woman.  To  be  called  a  woman  is  an  insult  scarcely 
to  be  endured.  To  be  clad  in  woman's  dress  and 
tieated  like  a  woman,  as  a  punishment,  is  the  climax 
of  public  disgrace.  See  an  interesting  case  related 
in  Hall's  Life  of  Rev.  John  Clark,  where  Gov.  Cass 
^'decided  to  make  a  ivoman"  of  an  Indian  who  had 
been  guilty  of  a  high  misdemeanor.  The  Governor 
caused  him  to  be  divested  of  his  own  clothing,  instead 
of  which  he  was  invested  with  "an  old,  greasy  petti- 
coat." "It  is  said  that  he  never  recovered  his  posi- 
tion with  his  tribe,  but  was  ever  after  considered  as 
disfranchised  and  degraded."     (Page  82.) 

The  women  cultivate  the  patches  of  corn  and  pota- 
toes, besides  doing  the  other  drudgery  about  home. 

But  respecting  this  Mr.  Schoolcraft  says:  "It  is 
not  generally  known  that  this  labor  is  not  compul- 
sory, and  that  it  is  assumed  by  the  females  as  a  just 
equivalent,  in  their  view,  for  the  onerous  and  contin- 
uous labor  of  the  other  sex,  in  providing  meats  and 
skins  for  clothing  by  the  chase,  and  in  defending  their 
villages  against  their  enemies,  and  in  keeping  intru- 
ders off  their  territories."  (Notes  to  the  Song  of 
Hiawatha,  page  307.) 

For  all  this,  it  is  an  undoubted  fact  that  the  men 
very  willingly  avoid  this  labor,  when  they  are  far 
more  able  to  do  it  than  those  upon  whom  the  burden 
falls.  The  lordly  head  of  the  family,  in  his  prime 
and  vigor,  and  the  active  youth  of  sixteen,  often 
lounge  about  the  wigwam  for  days  together,  and  see 
aged  and  decrepit    mothers  and  grandmothers,  and 


406  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES   OF 

siiperannuatecl  old  men,  bending  under  the  weight 
of  burdens  "  grievous  to  be  borne/^  without  lending 
a  helping  hand. 

There  is  much  of  primitive  simplicity  embodied  in 
their  language  and  hieroglyphics.  Like  the  Hebrew 
language,  their  names  are  highly  significant,  and  are 
usually  given,  not  arbitrarily,  but  to  express  some 
quality  or  trait  in  the  person  or  thing  to  which  they 
are  applied.  The  fire-ivatcr  for  whisky,  the  fire- 
ivagon  for  the  locomotive,  the  Great  Knife  for  the 
American  people,  in  allusion  to  the  terrible  use  they 
made  of  the  sword  in  the  Indian  wars,  may  serve  as 
examples.  Men  and  women  are  named  after  trees, 
birds,  beasts,  and  other  objects  animate  or  inani- 
mate, to  suit  their  fancy.  Tecumseh  was  appropri- 
ately named  the  ^'  Crouching  Panther.''^ 

The  Indians,  like  the  ancient  Israelites,  have  their 
iotemSy  or  family  coat  of  arms.  These  are  preserved 
in  hieroglyphics  carved  in  wood  or  painted  on  bark. 
The  totem  may  be  the  hear,  the  eagle,  the  fox,  or  any 
other  animal.  At  the  decease  of  a  relative,  the  totem 
is  placed  at  the  head  of  the  grave.  Generations  may 
have  passed  away,  and  near  relatives  may  have  been 
scattered  far  and  wide,  but  wherever  they  find  the 
same  coat  of  arms,  they  know  that  they  belong  to  the 
same  original  stock  and  are  descended  from  the  same 
parents.  They  thus  preserve  the  identity  of  their 
tribes  with  great  care. 

The  mythology  and  religion  of  the  Indians  is  in- 
vested with  much  interest  to   such  as  would  study 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  407 

Indian  character.  I  find  a  paragraph  so  appropri- 
ately written  on  this  subject  in  Hall's  Life  of  Rev. 
John  Clark,  that  the  reader  Avill  be  gratified  at  its 
insertion  here : 

"  The  Indians  believed  in  the  Great  Spirit,  Avhom 
they  always  located  in  the  sky,  and  to  whom  they 
ascribed  many  of  his  attributes.  They  always  regard 
him  as  omniscient  and  the  hearer  of  prayer ;  he  is 
supreme  in  power  and  infinite  in  goodness.  But  they 
were  at  the  same  time  polytheists ;  they  clothed  the 
fields,  forests,  and  waters  with  divinities,  and  re- 
garded every  part  of  creation  as  animated  by  spirits 
visible  and  invisible.  Some  were  malignant  and  some 
benign,  and  they  presided  over  the  affairs  and  desti- 
nies of  men.  These  must  be  propitiated  by  sacrifice, 
and  their  ofi'erings  must  be  followed  by  fasts  to  ren- 
der them  acceptable,  and  by  feasts  to  express  grati- 
tude. Such  is  the  ground- work  of  their  religion;  but 
superstition  has  grafted  upon  the  original  stock,  till 
it  has  become  monstrous  with  demonology,  witch- 
craft, and  necromancy.  They  have  no  succession  in 
the  priesthood,  but,  like  the  office  of  war-captain,  it 
is  assumed  and  exercised  by  men  of  more  than  ordi- 
nary acuteness  and  cunning.  It  is  conferred  by  the 
election  of  opinion,  but  not  of  votes.  While  they 
regard  the  Great  Spirit  as  having  his  residence  in  the 
sky,  they  invariably  locate  their  minor  divinities  in 
the  earth.  The  idea  of  a  universal  deluge  is  fully 
entertained  by  all  the  Indians,  and  it  is  found  in  their 
tales  and  legends,  even  at  the  greatest  distance  from 


408  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

civilization  and  Christianity.  They  have  also  some 
crude  notions  of  the  incarnation,  as  is  evident  from 
legends  gathered  and  translated  by  Mr.  Schoolcraft." 
(Pages  78,  79.) 

A  few  facts  may  not  be  amiss  here,  as  illustrative 
of  their  idolatrous  and  polytheistic  worship.  Some 
years  since,  Rev.  P.  Marksman  found  at  Naomikong, 
Lake  Superior,  a  singular-shaped  stone,  evidently 
worn  by  the  action  of  water,  which  he  presented  me 
as  one  of  their  gods.  Many  of  the  islands  are  desig- 
nated by  the  words  manito  minis,  which  mean  sjnrit 
island.  The  island  of  Mackinav*',  according  to  Mr. 
Schoolcraft,  signifies  ''place  of  the  dancing  spirits." 
A  lofty  rock  islet  stands,  like  a  lone  monument,  in 
the  St.  Louis  river,  near  the  head  of  Grand  Portage, 
which  the  Indians  regard  with  superstitious  venera- 
tion. Many  of  them  think  it  daring  presumption  to 
attempt  to  scale  its  summit.  They  often  coast  along 
it,  and  lay  their  grateful  offerings  of  tobacco  on  its 
ledges,  to  propitiate  the  presiding  divinity. 

All  who  have  ever  spent  much  time  among  the 
Ojibwa  Indians,  have  heard  something  about  the  won- 
drous tutelar  divinity,  "of  mysterious  birth"  and 
wondrous  achievements,  designated  by  several  titles, 
but  commonly  called  Ma-ne-hu-zlio.  When  at  Kewa- 
wenon,  John  Southwind  presented  me  with  a  small 
image  of  an  old  man  carved  in  wood,  designed  to 
represent  this  divinity,  which,  I  was  told,  had  de- 
scended through  four  generations.  Some  of  the 
greatest   blessings  enjoyed  by  the  Indians  are    by 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  409 

them  attributed  to  the  agency  of  3Ia-ne-hu-zho, 
whose  very  name  is  a  synonym  of  wisdom.  Several 
of  the  legends  of  this  personage,  combined  with  some 
others  of  similar  character,  form  the  outline  of  the 
very  singular  and  attractive  poem  by  Longfellow,  en- 
titled "  The  Song  of  Hiawatha."  Many  phases  of 
Indian  character  are  here  painted  with  the  hand  of 
the  master.  The  production  is  a  fine  addition  to  the 
classic  literature  of  American  authors,  and  will  be 
read  with  great  interest  by  every  student  of  the  In- 
dian. Poetic  license  has  been  taken  with  some  In- 
dian words  and  phrases,  which  might  be  expected. 
But  whatever  the  critics  may  say,  his  poem  will  live 
and  be  admired  as  a  monument  of  the  author's  ge- 
nius and  a  beautiful  tribute  to  the  fast-fading  and 
disappearing  tribes  of  the  wilderness. 

From  numerous  incidents  before  given  in  this  work, 
it  is  but  too  apparent  that  the  moral  traits  of  heathen 
Indians  give  a  dark  coloring  to  the  picture.  Igno- 
rance and  stupidity,  superstition,  idolatry,  sorcery, 
and  necromancy,  with  the  long  and  dark  train  of 
heathen  vices  and  abominations,  are  to  be  found 
here.  If  the  apostle  Paul  had  spent  years  among 
this  people,  he  could  not  have  traced  their  moral  lin- 
eaments into  a  more  complete  life-likeness  than  he 
has  done  in  the  first  chapter  to  the  Romans,  from 
which  one  brief  clause  is  enough:  '^Filled  ivitli  all 
unrighteousness,^^  Here  is  God's  image  "m  dreadful 
ruinsJ'     Without  the    Gospel,   as   a  people  they  are 

**  witJiout  Iwper 

^  34 


410  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 


CHAPTER    XXX. 

PLEA    FOR    IXDIAX     ]\IISSIONS 

The  Christianization  and  civilization  of  the  abo- 
riginal tribes  of  North  America  have  enlisted  the 
warm  Christian  sympathy  and  enlarged  benevolence 
of  many  of  the  wisest  and  best  men.  Su  *h,  evi- 
dently, do  not  look  upon  the  efforts  of  the  Church 
and  the  nation,  in  this  direction,  as  visionary  and 
impracticable,  but  as  founded  upon  reason  and  the 
higher  demands  of  revelation.  Still  it  is  net  to  be 
questioned  that  skepticism  prevails  widely  among  men 
whose  influence  is  felt,  and  felt,  too,  even  within  the 
pale  of  the  Church,  and  the  energies  of  many  thus 
become  paralyzed,  and  the  streams  of  benevolence 
are  dried  up  or  turned  out  of  their  course. 

"When  traveling  on  Lake  Superior  I  fell  in  com- 
pany with  a  gentleman  of  learning  and  talent — a 
statesman — a  man  of  influence  as  a  popular  orator, 
who  evinced,  in  general,  great  respect  for  religion, 
but  who  considered  that  "the  attempts  of  mission- 
aries to  better  the  condition  of  Indians  had  hitherto 
proved  an  utter  failure,  and  that  it  was  to  fight  against 
Providence  to  attempt,  under  existing  circumstances, 
to  better  their  condition." 

In  the  very  able  and  important  reports  of  Messrs. 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  411 

Foster  and  Whitney  on  the  Geology  and  Topography 
of  the  Lake  Superior  region,  after  an  interesting  and 
highly-appreciatory  sketch  of  the  labors  and  suffer- 
ings of  Jesuit  missionaries,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
lakes,  vre  have  the  following  statement,  which,  if  we 
understand  it,  is  intended  to  apply  to  all  missionary 
efforts  bestowed  upon  the  Indians.  The  idea  is,  that 
they  have  proved  a  failure.  The  statement,  without 
qualification,  is  copied  into  Sheldon's  Early  History  of 
Michigan,  and  is  thus  embalmed  in  the  history  of  our 
country.  It  is  as  follows :  "  The  effect  of  the  contact 
of  the  two  races  has  been  to  afford  the  Indian  addi- 
tional incentives  to  vice,  while  his  intellectual  and 
moral  elevation  has  been  little  advanced;  and,  at  this 
day,  it  can  not  be  said  that  he  stands  higher  in  the 
scale  of  civilization  than  when  first  known  by  the 
white  man."  (Part  I,  page  10.)  Here,  by  a  single 
sweep  of  the  pen,  the  labors,  sacrifices,  and,  in  many 
instances,  eminent  successes  of  missionaries  in  this 
field,  are  scattered  to  the  winds  and  covered  with 
oblivion.  But  they  may  well  afford  to  suffer  such  a 
fate  wdien  it  is  remembered  that  ''  their  record  is  on 
bio-h,  and  their  memorial  with  their  God." 

These  statements  may  be  considered  in  the  light 
of  objections  to  missionary  effort  among  the  Indians. 
Let  us  examine  them  briefly.  The  first  assumes,  as 
true,  that  missionary  efforts  among  the  Indians  have 
proved  an  utter  failure.  The  assumption  we  deny 
as  unfounded,  and  rest  the  matter  here  for  the  pres- 
ent.    It  is   said  to  be   "to  fight  against  Providence 


412  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OF 

to  attempt,  under  existing  circumstances,  to  better 
their  condition."  If  to  attempt  to  carry  into  effect 
tlie  authoritative  command  of  Providence,  to  go  into 
all  the  world  and  preach  the  Gospel  to  every  creature, 
is  to  figlit  against  Providence^  then  the  Christian 
Church  may  plead  guilty  to  the  charge.  If,  on  the 
contrary,  the  mandate  of  Heaven  is  to  be  obeyed,  it 
is  not  only  to  acquiesce  in,  but  to  act  in  harmony 
with  the  will  of  Providence,  to  labor  Avith  a  view  to 
the  elevation  of  the  red  man. 

The  statement  taken  from  the  reports  we  may  ad- 
mit, in  part,  what  is  here  affirmed,  that  ''the  effect 
of  the  contact  of  the  two  races  has  been  to  afford  the 
Indian  additional  incentives  to  vice."  But  has  it  not 
afforded  him  also  limitless  incentives  to  virtue,  which 
were  beyond  his  reach?  On  the  same  principle  of 
reasoning,  we  might  say  that  the  means  of  human 
progress  open  up  incentives  and  furnish  occasions 
for  the  spread  of  vice  among  white  people;  there- 
fore, the  means  of  progress  have  not  bettered  the 
condition  of  the  white  people.  The  progress  of  vice 
has  evidently  kept  pace  with  the  march  of  improve- 
ment, if  it  has  not  far  outstripped  it. 

Mr.  Frost,  in  the  preface  to  his  Indian  Wars,  makes 
the  following  statement  as  a  fact,  gathered  from  In- 
dian history :  "  Their  wars  among  themselves,  in 
which  they  persist,  thin  their  numbers  from  year  to 
year,  and  their  habits  of  life  are  by  no  means  favora- 
ble to  an  increase  of  population,  or  even  to  the  pres- 
ervation of  their  race.     Whole  tribes   have   already 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  413 

disappeared,  from  causes  independent  of  the  hostility 
of  the  people ;  and  similar  causes  now  in  operation 
threaten  their  total  extermination,  even  if  they  should 
suffer  no  more  from  the  fatal  rifle,  or  the  destroying 
influence  of  intoxicating  liquors."  He  adds,  "It  is 
hoped  that  Christian  benevolence  may  yet  devise 
some  means  by  which  this  interesting  and  brave 
people  may  be  preserved,  and  become  instructed  in 
the  arts  of  civilized  life."  The  fact  is,  the  doom  of 
the  red  man  was  sealed  by  causes  growing  Avholly  out 
of  his  heathen  condition.  Contact  with  the  white 
people  threw  open  the  gate  of  knowledge  before  him, 
and  bid  him  enter.  If  the  knowledge  necessary  to 
point  out  the  path  of  virtue,  opened  up  new  in- 
centives to  vice,  it  is  to  be  viewed  as  an  accident 
rather  than  a  necessary  result.  But  for  the  cupidity 
of  those  whose  efforts  have  been  opposed  to  the  be- 
nevolent attempts  to  elevate  the  Indian,  he  would 
have  stood  far  higher  to-day  than  he  does  in  the 
scale  of  civilization. 

That  the  Indian's  ''intellectual  and  moral  elevation 
has  been  little  advanced,"  compared  with  the  desires 
of  the  Church,  is  a  painful  fact.  But  we  must  hesi- 
tate before  adopting  the  following:  "At  this  day  it 
can  not  be  said  that  he  stands  higher  in  the  scale 
of  civilization  than  when  first  known  by  the  white 
man." 

If  we  should  throw  aside  entirely  the  reports  of 
missionaries,  as  not  entitled  to  credit,  any  one  may 
satisfy  himself  by  consulting  the  statements  of  agents 


414  LIGHTSAND    SHADES   OF 

and  officers  of  tlie  Government,  found  in  tlie  reports 
of  the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs,  that  great  ad- 
vances have  been  made  among  many  of  these  tribes 
m  civilization  and  Christianity.  I  will  not  burden 
these  pages  with  extracts  which  might  be  made  from 
these  reports;  but  against  such  assertions  as  the' 
above,  generally  made  without  proof,  I  offer  the  fol- 
lowing statement  of  a  President  of  the  United  States, 
Mr.  Tyler,  in  his  message  of  1842 — Frost's  Indian 
"Wars,  page  284 — "With  several  of  the  tribes  great 
progress  in  civilizing  them  has  already  been  made. 
The  schoolmaster  and  the  missionary  are  found  side 
by  side,  and  the  remains  of  what  Avere  once  numerous 
and  powerful  nations,  may  ^'et  be  preserved  as  the 
builders  up  of  a  new  name  for  themselves  and  their 
posterity." 

The  argument  against  the  elevation  of  the  Indian, 
from  the  comparatively  few  who  have  been  actually 
Christianized,  and  partially  or  wholly  civilized,  may 
be  as  legitimately  opposed  to  the  Christian  religion 
in  its  influence  over  the  nations  of  the  earth.  Though 
eighteen  hundred  years  have  elapsed  since  it  was  first 
introduced,  it  is  confined  within  narrow  limits  yet, 
compared  with  the  entire  population  of  the  globe. 
"The  whole  number  of  Indians  within  the  states  and 
territories,"  says  Dr.  Durbin,  "  does  not  exceed  four 
hundred  thousand."'  Admitting  that  the  number  of 
Protestant  Church  members  among  these  does  not 
exceed  eight  or  ten  thousand  in  the  United  States 
and  the  territories,  of  which  the  Methodist  Episcopal 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  415 

Cliurcb,  and  tlie  Methodist  Episcopal  Cluircli  South, 
embrace  between  five  and  six  thousand:  compare 
even  this  number  -ftith  the  whole  number  of  Indians, 
making  allovrance  for  the  numbers  thus  Christianized 
who  have  died  annually,  in  holy  triumph,  and  the  re- 
sults tell  favorably  for  the  cause;  especially  when 
we  remember  that  it  has  not  been  half  a  century  since 
our  first  Indian  missions  were  commenced,  the  formi- 
dable obstacles  to  be  overcome  before  those  missions 
could  obtain  a  firm  footing,  and  the  adverse  influences 
which  have  operated  since.  Hand  in  hand  with  this 
Christianizing  process,  have  been  the  shop,  the  farm, 
the  school,  and  other  means  of  social,  civil,  and  relig- 
ious elevation.  The  theorist  may  conclude  that  these 
things'  have  not  bettered  the  condition  of  the  Indian, 
but  the  Indian  himself  knows  to  the  contrary,  and 
testifies  to  the  contrary.  Do  you  say  that  all  this 
forms  only  the  exception  to  a  general  rule  ?  I  deny 
the  application  of  this  principle  here.  The  world 
was  bettered  by  the  introduction  of  Christianity,  be- 
fore a  millionth  part  had  actually  tested  its  virtue. 
The  civilizing  influences  of  Christianity  can  not  be 
introduced  into  any  barbarous  or  savage  nation,  with- 
out conferrinor  a  benefit  on  the  whole,  xlll  the  ^N^orth 
American  Indians  are  bound  together  by  many  ties 
of  affinity.  Christianity  has  been  introduced  among 
them — it  is  the  leaven  hid  in  the  meal,  and  must 
affect,  more  or  less,  the  entire  lump.  Its  vrork  may 
be  slow  and  gradual,  but  it  must  ^o  on  and  increase. 
The  AVeslevan  missionaries  in  Canada  have  been 


416  LIGHTS   AND   SHADES   OF 

among  the  most  successful  in  their  missionary  efforts 
•among  the  Indians.  The  flame  which  first  broke  out 
among  them,  extended  to  the  distant  shore  of  Lake 
Superior.  The  following  speeches,  published  some 
years  ago,  in  the  Christian  Advocate  and  Journal, 
show  the  influence  of  this  work  on  the  Canada  In- 
dians, and  the  sympathy  they  felt  for  their  distant 
brethren  yet  without  the  Gospel.  The  touching  and 
heart-felt  response  made  by  the  chief  at  Kewawenon 
to  the  speech  of  Yellow  Head,  shows  how  much  those 
Indians  felt  their  need  of  the  same  purifying  and 
elevating  Gospel: 

SPEECH    OF    YELLOW    HEAD,    HEAD    CHIEF    OF   THE   CHIP 
PEWA   TRIBE   AT    LAKE    SIMCOE,   UPPER   CAN- 
ADA,   IN    BEHALF    OF    ALL    THE 
CANADIAN   CHIPPEWAS. 

''  To    ALL    THE    ChIPPEWAS   IN    THE  UxiTED  STATES 

OF  America, — 0  my  nation!  My  eldest  brother! 
Hear  ye  what  I  have  to  say  to  you.  We  have  re- 
ceived a  great  blessing  from  the  Great  Spirit.  It  is 
the  word  of  the  Great  Spirit  which  teaches  his  holy 
religion,  and  which  our  forefathers  never  had.  This 
is  a  good  religion  for  us.  I  am  now  old  and  gray- 
headed,  but  I  find  this  to  be  a  very  good  religion. 

"Oncel  was  blind,  but  the  Great  Spirit  made  me 
see  when  his  light  shined  upon  me  through  the  thick 
mist  that  covered  me  up.  When  in  this  evil  state  of 
darkness,  we  had  no  comfort  at  all,  but  were  in  a  most 
wretched  condition.  "We  were  lying  about  taverns 
and  in  the   streets,  or  before  the  doors  in  the  mud, 


MISSIONARY   LIFE.  417 

where  the  white  people  threw  out  their  dirty  slops; 
while  our  wives  and  children,  living  in  huts  made  of 
boughs  of  trees,  were  naked,  cold,  and  starving. 
This  is  the  work  of  the  evil  spirit,  in  giving  us  the 
fire-water  to  drink,  and  this  is  the  way  he  serves  his 
children  and  gives  them  no  happiness.  We  then 
thought  we  were  living ;  but  we  were  all  dead  in  sin ; 
and  when  we  think  of  what  we  have  been  it  makes  us 
feeV  miserable.  Therefore  we  speak  to  you,  and  tell 
you  to  take  the  religion  of  the  Great  Spirit. 

''  When  we  embraced  this  religion  it  made  us  happy 
in  our  hearts,  and  we  were  no  longer  lying  drunk  in 
the  streets,  but  lived  in  houses  like  the  white  men, 
and  our  women  and  children  were  comfortable  and 
happy.  We  drank  no  more  fire-water,  which  makes 
men  act  like  fools — like  the  hogs  that  live  in  the  mud. 
Hear  this,  my  nation,  and  take  the  true  religion  of 
the  Bible,  which  will  make  you  happy,  and  drink  no 
more  fire-water,  and  let  me  hear  from  you  then,  and 
tell  me  how  you  like  my  words.  Now  we  shake 
hands  with  you  in  all  our  hearts;  also  with  your 
women  and  children.  We  love  you  all  much  in  our 
hearts.     This  is  all  I  have  to  say. 

"Me  Shukeexce." 

speech  of  pen  ashe,  chief  at  kewawenox,  in 

REPLY    TO    THE    FOEEGOING. 

"I  feel  truly  thankful  to  hear  from  our  brethren  at 

the  east,  and  that  they  have  found  the  true  religion, 

and  received    a   blessing  from  the   Great    Spirit.     I 

85 


418  LIGHTS   AND    SHADES   OP 

have  taken  the  wampum  which  they  sent  us  in  my 
hand,  and  looked  at  it.  It  is  all  white.  But  the 
string  is  red,  which  tells  us  that  the  Son  of  God  came 
into  the  world  and  spilled  his  blood.  Now  we  must 
all  listen  to  the  words  of  the  Great  Spirit.  I  have 
now  given  my  answer.  We  shake  hands  with  you  all 
in  our  hearts.     This  is  all  I  have  to  say. 

"Penashe  Quemezhan  Shis  Shaanwabetoo." 

The  facts  in  the  above  speeches  speak  voiumes  in 
behalf  of  the  power  of  the  Gospel  to  elevate  the  red 
man.  Several  similar  testimonials  from  individuals 
have  been  before  given  in  our  narrative. 

But  it  was  not  my  design  to  enter  into  a  labored 
argument  on  this  point.  The  brief  answer  made  to 
objections,  which  have  been  placed  in  a  strong  light, 
must  suffice.  If  the  professing  Christian  has  been 
skeptical,  let  him  banish  his  doubts,  and  come  up 
nobly  to  his  part  of  this  great  work.  As  surely  as 
Christ  hath  tasted  death  for  every  man,  is  it  the  will 
of  God  that  the  Indians  should  share  in  the  inherit- 
ance of  the  purchased  possession.  But  this  is  a 
"work  of  faith,"  as  well  as  a  "labor  of  love."  These 
missions  must,  to  accomplish  their  object,  live  in  the 
heart  of  the  Church.  They  must  share  in  her  wai-m- 
est  sympathies  and  prayers,  and  receive  her  liberal 
gifts  of  men  and  means,  not  in  proportion  to  the 
number  of  converts,  but  in  proportion  to  the  value  of 
a  single  soul  savingly  enlightened. 

The  claims  of  the  Indian  upon  the  Christian  sym- 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  419 

pathies  of  the  nation  are  great  beyond  measure. 
Christianity  makes  us  the  debtor  to  this  people.  But, 
added  to  this,  we  are  the  inheritors  of  their  once  vast 
forests,  broad  rivers,  and  lakes.  As  a  result  of  the 
contest  between  the  victors  and  the  conquered,  many 
of  their  noblest  sons  have  bathed  the  ground  with 
their  blood.  Their  history  is  one  of  aggression  of 
the  stronger  on  the  domain  of  the  weaker — a  history 
of  wrong,  of  cruelty,  of  blood.  It  is  not  here  inti- 
mated that  our  Government  has  intended  to  inflict 
wrong  upon  the  Indian  tribes.  It  has,  doubtless, 
aimed  to  adopt  a  policy  which,  in  the  end,  would 
elevate  the  Indian.  That  the  policy  adopted  was  not 
always  the  best,  is  what  might  have  been  expected  of 
erring  mortals'.  Many  of  the  wrongs  suffered  by  the 
Indians  have  been  despite  the  well-meant  aims  of  the 
Department.  But,  from  whatever  source  they  may 
have  arisen,  the  Indians  have  been  the  sufferers,  and 
the  only  recompense  we  can  make  them  is  to  give 
them  the  joy,  the  undying  hope,  imnarted  by  the 
Gospel. 

One  other  motive  should  prompt  us  to  duty  here; 
that  is,  the  present  strait  of  the  Indian.  His  choice 
is  between  two  alternatives;  he  must  be  elevated  by 
means  of  a  Christian  civilization,  or  he  must  become 
extinct  at  no 'distant  day.  His  fisheries  are  monopo- 
lized by  others,  and  his  hunting-grounds  have 'been 
mostly  destroyed.  He  can  live  but  little  longer  by 
the  chase.  He  never  can  become  truly  civilized  with- 
out the  entering  wedge  of  Christianity.     The  pagan 


420  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 

religion  is  interwoven  with  all  the  relations  of  the 
Indian,  and  is  in  direct  conflict  with  civilization. 
This  false  prop  must  be  removed  before  he  will  lean 
upon  the  true  one.  Unenlightened  and  uninfluenced 
bj  the  Gospel,  the  doom  of  prophecy  hangs,  with 
fearful  portent,  over  the  Indian  tribes:  ''For  the 
nation  and  kingdom  that  ivill  7iot  serve  thee  shall  loer- 
ish;  yea^  those  nations  shall  he  utterly  wasted J^  Isaiah 
Ix,  12. 

"  I  beheld,  too,  in  that  vision 
All  the  secrets  of  the  future, 
Of  the  distant  days  that  shall  be. 
I  beheld  the  westward  marches 
Of  the  unknown  crowded  nations. 
All  the  land  was  full  of  people, 
Restless,  struggling,  toiling,  striving, 
Speaking  many  tongues,  yet  feeling 
But  one  heart  beat  in  their  bosoms. 
In  the  woodland  rang  their  axes. 
Smoked  their  towns  in  all  the  valleys; 
Over  all  the  lakes  and  rivers 
Rushed  their  great  canoes  of  thunder. 
Then  a  darker,  drearier  vision 
Passed  before  me, vague  and  cloud-like; 
I  beheld  our  nations  scattered. 
All  forgetful  of  my  counsels, 
"Weakened,  warring  with  each  other; 
Saw  the  remnants  of  our  people 
Sweeping  westward,  wild  and  woeful, 
Like  the  cloud-rack  of  a  tempest. 
Like  the  withered  leaves  of  autumn !" 

Song  of  Hiawatha. 

Such  a  song  was  fitting  to  be  put  into  the  mouth 
of  the  wisest  man  that  ever  was  given  to  the  Indian 
tribes.  But,  looking  hopefully  into  the  scheme  of 
redemption,  we  are  encouraged  by  words  of  wisdom, 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  421 

such  as  no  fabled  oracle  lias  ever  uttered :  "  The 
Y.ilderness  and  the  solitary  place  shall  be  glad  for 
them;  and  the  desert  shall  rejoice  and  blossom  as 
the  rose.  It  shall  blossom  abundantly,  and  rejoice, 
even  with  joy  and  singing:  the  glory  of  Lebanon 
shall  be  given  unto  it,  the  excellency  of  Carmel  and 
Sharon,  they  shall  see  the  glory  of  the  Lord,  and  the 
excellency  of  our  God." 

"  Let  thrones,  and  powers,  and  kingdoms,  be 
Obedient,  mighty  God,  to  thee ; 
And  over  land,  and  stream,  and  main, 
Now  wave  the  scepter  of  thy  reign." 


422  LIGHTS  AND   SHADES  OF 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

LAKE  SUPERIOR  REGION-DESTINY-CONCLUSION 

This  region  is  an  interesting  portion  of  our  great 
and  growing  country.  Rich  in  exhaustless  stores  of 
mineral  wealth,  and  scarcely  less  so  in  its  capabilities 
of  enriching  us  in  science  and  art,  it  opens  a  wide 
field  for  industry  and  enterprise,  as  well  as  for  scien- 
tific research.  But  till  recently  it  has  hardly  been 
known.  The  pearly  waters  of  the  vast  lake,  for  ages 
on  ages,  had  been  shut  in  by  dense  woodlands  and 
mountain  ranges,  hardly  disturbed,  unless  by  the 
gambols  of  the  finny  tribe  and  the  birchen  canoe, 
fanned  by  gentle  summer  breezes,  or  lashed  to  fury 
by  the  wild  sweep  of  Boreas.  But  those  days  are 
numbered.  The  lake  now  bears  on  her  broad  bosom 
the  schooner,  with  whitened  sail,  and  echoes  the  puff 
of  the  steamer  as  she  plows  majestically  the  crested 
billows,  bearing  the  fruits  of  commercial  industry 
and  thrift  to  destined  ports.  The  wilderness,  untrav- 
ersed  but  by  the  native  and  the  trader,  is  now  dotted 
with  cabins  of  miners.  The  prowling  of  wild  beasts 
and  the  savage  war-whoop  have  given  way  to  the  wood- 
man's ax  and  the  blast  from  the  miner's  shaft,  which 
rends  the  air.  The  uncultivated  forest  is  here  and 
there  turned  into  a  2;arden.     Yillao;es  bedn  to  lino 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  423 

the  wild  shores  and  the  rugged  cliffs,  and  already  the 
vision  of  crowded  cities,  with  all  the  moving  tides 
of  commerce  and  fortune,  begin  to  flit  across  the 
imagination  as  though  they  were  reality.  As  it  re- 
gards the  geological  structure  of  Lake  Superior  and 
the  various  phenomena  laid  open  by  scientific  explo- 
ration and  research,  we  must  take  little  notice  of 
them  here,  as  not  falling  within  the  plan  or  aim  of 
these  unpretending  pages.  Scientific  gentlemen,  who 
Avere  every  way  qualified  for  such  a  work,  have  be- 
stowed vast  labor  and  much  patient  investigation  on 
these  themes,  and  the  results  have  been  given  to  the 
world  as  a  rich  legacy.  These  must  be  consulted  by 
such  as  would  study  minutely  the  developments  of 
the  Lake  Superior  region.  They  may  be  found  in 
the  able  reports  of  Messrs.  Foster  and  Whitney.  In 
lookinfj  into  the  facts  here  detailed,  no  one  will  over- 
look  our  vast  indebtedness  to  the  late  lamented  Dr. 
Houo^hton,  through  whose  influence  and  scientific  la- 
bors,  more  than  those  of  any  other  person,  this  re- 
gion was  brought  into  favorable  notice.  Had  he  lived 
to  consummate  his  own  comprehensive  plans,  his 
country  would  have  been  greatly  enriched  by  his 
contributions  to  science;  but,  mysteriously,  he  was 
suddenly  removed  from  earth  in  the  midst  of  his 
achievements  and  hard-earned  fame,  and  the  result 
of  much  of  his  labor  perished  with  him. 

Although  the  first  explorations  of  white  men  in 
this  region  are  comparatively  recent,  still  we  are  led 
back   nearly  two   hundred  years   to   the   time .  when 


424  LIGHTS  aKd  shades  of 

Jesuit  missionaries,  some  of  them  learned,  talented, 
and  refined,  and  w'ell  fitted  for  any  station,  traversed 
tlie  Lake  Superior  region,  and  became  missionaries 
amon^T  the  Indians.  The  names  of  Rene  Mesuard, 
Claude  Allouez,  Claude  Dablon,  and  James  MarquettO) 
are  embalmed  in  the  history  of  our  country  as  pio- 
neers into  that,  then  especially,  inhospitable  clime. 

An  interesting  fact  is  given  us  as  connected  with 
those  early  explorations;  that  is,  the  evidences  of  the 
existence  of  native  copper.  In  several  places  large 
bowlders  of  this  mineral  were  found,  some  of  them 
weighing  a  hundred  pounds.  This  pure  virgin  cop- 
per was  regarded  by  the  Indians  with  superstitious 
veneration,  and  some  of  the  specimens  preserved  by 
them  were  worshiped  as  gods.  After  New  France 
had  been  ceded  to  the  British  crown,  an  Englishman 
by  the  name  of  Alexander  Henry,  who  had  escaped 
the  horrible  massacre  of  Mackinaw,  headed  a  mining 
expedition,  which  was  prosecuted  for  a  time  near  the 
forks  of  the  Ontonagon  river.  But  the  efibrt  was 
ill-directed  and  soon  abandoned.  Up  to  the  year 
1844  no  successful  elfort  had  been  made  to  develop 
the  mineral  resources  of  the  country.  Since  that 
period  the  wonderful  discoveries  and  the  untold 
wealth  which  have  been  revealed  have  been  published 
to  the  world. 

In  those  mining  explorations  a  very  interesting 
fact  has  been  brought  to  light— the  works  of  a  rude 
people,  who  had  been  engaged  in  mining,  certainly 
not  less  than  four  hundred  years  ago,  probably  much 


MISSIOXARiT   LIFE.  425 

earlier.  Those  evidences  may  be  seen  on  Isle  Roval, 
at  Eagle  river,  at  the  Xorth-AVest  Mine,  and  other 
places.  But  the  most  interesting  discoveries  of  this 
kind  were  made  at  the  Minnesota  Mine,  at  the  Onton- 
agon. Mr.  Samuel  0.  Knapp,  the  then  intelligent 
agent  of  the  Minnesota  Mining  Company,  in  the 
spring  of  1848,  laid  open  one  of  these  ancient 
works.  The  following  is  an  extract  from  Messrs. 
Foster  and  Whitney's  Reports:  ^'The  depression 
was  twenty-six  feet  deep,  filled  with  clay  and  a 
matted  mass  of  moldering  vegetable  matter.  "When 
he  had  penetrated  to  the  depth  of  eighteen  feet,  he 
came  to  a  mass  of  native  copper,  ten  feet  long,  three 
feet  wide,  and  nearly  two  feet  thick,  and  weighing 
over  six  tuns.  On  digging  around  it  the  mass  was 
found  to  rest  on  billets  of  oak,  supported  by  sleepers 
of  the  same  material.  This  wood,  specimens  of 
which  have  been  preserved,  by  its  long  exposure  to 
moisture  is  dark-colored,  and  has  lost  all  its  con- 
sistency. A  knife-blade  may  be  thrust  into  it  as 
easily  as  into  a  peat-bog.  The  earth  was  so  packed 
around  the  copper  as  to  give  it  a  firm  support.  The 
ancient  miners  had  evidently  raised  it  about  five  feet, 
and  then  abandoned  the  work  as  too  laborious.  They 
had  taken  off  every  projecting  point  which  was  ac- 
cessible, so  that  the  exposed  surface  was  smooth.'' 
(Part  I,  page  159.) 

Proof  of  the  high  antiquity  of  these  works  is  found 
in  the  fact  that  trees  growing  over  these  works  are 

as  aged  as  the  forest   trees  around   them.     Messrs., 
36 


426  LIGHTS   Ax\D    SHADES   OF 

Foster  and  "Whitney  speak  of  a  pine  stump,  thus  situ- 
ated, "broken  fifteen  feet  from  the  ground,  ten  feet 
in  circumference,  which  must  have  grown,  flourished, 
and  died  since  the  earth  in  which  it  had  taken  root 
was  thrown  out.''  Mr.  Knapp  counted,  say  they, 
*' three  hundred  and  ninety-five  annular  rings,  on  a 
hemlock,  growing  under  similar  circumstances,  which 
he  felled  near  one  of  his  shafts.  Thus  it  would  ap- 
pear, that  these  explorations  were  made  before  Colum- 
bus started  on  his  voyage  of  discovery."     (Ibid.) 

Ancient  stone  hammers  have  been  found,  in  large 
quantities,  in  connection  with  these  works.  Those 
taken  out  of  the  Minnesota  works  exceed  ten  cart- 
loads, and  weighed  from  five  to  thirty-nine  pounds 
each.  "A  copper  gad,  with  the  head  much  battered, 
and  a  copper  chisel,  with  a  socket  for  the  reception 
of  a  wooden  handle,  were  brought  to  light."  These 
I  saw  myself,  in  the  possession  of  Dr.  Hickock,  of 
New  York,  in  the  summer  of  1848.  Messrs.  Foster 
and  AYhitney  suppose  that  this  ancient  mining  was 
performed  chiefly  with  these  stone  hammers,  with  the 
aid  of  fire  to  soften  the  rock  and  separate  it  from 
the  copper. 

All  is  involved  in  conjecture  respecting  who  were 
those  rude  miners.  The  Indians  of  the  country  have 
no  traditionary  accounts  of  this  matter.  Our  authors, 
quoted  above,  mention  the  fact,  that  copper  rings, 
designed  for  bracelets,  are  frequently  met  with  in  the 
western  mounds.  And  they  more  than  intimate  that 
these  copper  rings  are  "  a  strong  link  in  the  chain 


MISSIONARY  LIFE.  427 

of  evidence  to  connect  the  ancient  mining  of  this 
region  v-ith  the  earth  works  of  the  Mississippi  Yal- 
lej."     (Ibid.) 

But  with  a  simple  statement  of  these  facts  we  must 
leave  the  reader  to  his  own  speculations,  respecting 
the  people  who,  long  ago,  delved  into  the  mines  of 
Lake  Superior,  for  hidden  treasure. 

The  high  latitude  of  Lake  Superior  is  proof  that  it 
can  never  be  a  resort  for  farming  purposes.  Fort 
Wilkins  is  in  latitude  47°  27'.  Point  Kewenaw  is 
less  adapted  to  agriculture  than  the  vicinity  of  Onton- 
afron  or  Grand  Island.  Yet  all  along  the  southern 
shore  of  the  lake  are  immense  bodies  of  rich  alluvial 
land,  timbered  mostly  with  maple  and  birch,  adapted 
to  the  growth  of  most  of  the  staple  commodities  of 
the  farmer.  The  season  is  short;  but  vegetation 
matures  with  surprising  rapidity.  The  country  is 
good  for  grazing — oats  produce  abundantly.  Per- 
haps in  no  place  can  field  peas  be  found  to  do  betteV. 
Wheat  has  never  been  fairly  tested.  The  only  doubt 
is  with  reference  to  the  deep  snows  of  so  long  con- 
tinuance. When  at  Kewawenon,  I  planted  some 
eight-rowed  Michigan  corn  one  season,  which  grew 
thriftily,  filled  well  and  matured.  But  this,  perhaps, 
was  an  exception  to  a  general  rule.  No  great  de- 
pendence can  be  made  on  corn-growing.  The  escu- 
lent roots  grow,  most  thriftily,  and  produce  abund- 
antly ;  and  they  usually  possess  rare  culinary  prop- 
erties Farmers  may  make  their  avocation  lucrative, 
so  far  as  may  be  needed  to  supply  the  mines.     But 


428  LIGHTS   AKD   SHADES  OF 

for  general  farming  purposes,  choice  must  always  be 
made  of  farms  where  the  growing  season  is  longer, 
and  the  winters  less  severe. 

The  fisheries  and  pineries  must  form  an  important 
item  in  the  commerce  of  Lake  Superior.  Xow  that 
the  Ste.  Marie's  canal,  a  magnificent  national  work, 
so  long  demanded,  has  connected  the  great  chain  of 
lakes,  a  ready  market  will  always  be  afforded  for  fish 
and  lumber,  as  well  as  other  products  of  the  country. 

The  Lake  Superior  region  has  many  natural  ad- 
vantages and  attractions,  to  ofi*set  against  its  rugged 
and  forbidding  features.  Its"  pure  and  invigorating 
atmosphere,  pearly  waters,  savory  fishes,  and  its  pro- 
verbial healthfulness,  must  make  it  a  chosen  resort 
for  invalids  and  a  fond  home  for  actual  residents. 
The  traveler  will  make  it  a  resort  Avho  desires  to 
study  nature  in  her  loveliest  and  wildest  aspects. 
A  vievf  of  the  rising  or  setting  sun  on  the  wide  lake, 
01*  as  his  rays  kindle  the  landscape  into  a  picture  of 
loveliness,  or  are  thrown  in  flecks  of  light  against 
the  perpendicular  walls  of  sand-rock,  which  here  and 
there  form  the  bold  shore,  is  indescribably  beautiful. 
"What  can  exceed,  in  grandeur,  the  coruscations  of 
light,  as  seen  in  the  Aurora  Borealis,  or  Northern 
Lights,  of  a  Lake  Superior  sky?  Mirage  is  often 
seen  on  the  lake  in  the  form  of  trees,  islands,  and 
landscapes.  These  representations  are  often  beauti  • 
ful,  but  by  their  sudden  disappearance  show  that 
they  are  but  optical  illusions.  I  have  often  witnessed 
this  phenomena  on  the  water,  and  once  on  land.     On 


MISSIONARY  LliE.  429 

my  way  to  Sandy  Lake  one  season,  and  -when  T\ithin 
a  few  miles  of  the  place,  there  appeared  just  ahead 
of  us  a  beautiful  little  lake.  I  mistook  it  at  first  for 
Sandy  Lake.  But  as  we  went  on  it  vanished,  and 
proved  to  be  an  illusion.  The  extreme  length  of  a 
summer's  day  is  a  fact  with  which  all  voyagers  are 
familiar.  In  the  longest  days,  when  the  sky  is  clear, 
morning  begins  to  dawn  at  two  o'clock,  and  the  light 
of  day  does  not  fairly  disappear  till  ten  o'clock  at 
night. 

In  this  land,  interesting  in  so  many  of  its  features, 
the  hardy  pioneer  has  made  his  home.  The  wilder- 
ness is  no  longer  to  remain  a  rugged  waste,  but  is  to 
be  made  tributary  to  human  progress  and  the  wants 
of  man.  Thus  it  is  yet  to  answer  the  design  of  a 
beneficent  Creator.  The  first  settlers  were  a  mixed 
multitude,  representing  several  nations.  The  miners, 
chiefly  English,  German,  and  Irish.  Many  of  the 
agents  and  managers  of  the  mines,  and  persons  in 
other  branches  of  business,  were  our  own  countrymen. 
Many  of  those  hardy  and  enterprising  backwoods- 
men were  rough  in  their  appearance  as  the  wild 
scenes  around  them.  The  absence  of  female  society 
may  account  for  this  in  part.  But  there  were  other 
reasons  which  produced  carelessness  and  often  reck- 
lessness in  personal  appearance  and  manners.  In 
many  places  a  company  of  bachelors,  or  widowers, 
for  the  time  being,  many  of  whose  families  were  be- 
yond the  Atlantic,  were  huddled  together  in  mining 
cabins  and  shanties,  free  from  the  restraints  of  civil- 


430  LIGHTS  AND  SHADES  OF 

ized  life — every  one  at  liberty  to  do  that  which  was 
right  in  his  own  eyes.  The  razor  was  seldom  used. 
But  it  would  hardly  do  to  set  this  down  as  a  relic  of 
barbarism,  at  a  time  when  many  devote  more  atten- 
tion to  the  development  of  a  mustache  than  to  the 
development  of  the  mind.  Red  flannel  shirts  were 
generally  worn,  and  laboring  men,  when  at  work, 
even  in  the  coldest  weather,  seldom  wore  a  coat. 

The  long  winters  afforded  great  opportunities  for 
reading  and  study.  These  were  well  improved  by 
some  who  were  quite  extensive  readers.  Many  choice 
books  were  found  in  the  libraries  of  intelligent  min- 
ing agents.  But  many  read  little  or  nothing,  and, 
with  the  majority  of  readers,  the  books  that  were 
eagerly  devoured  were  novels  and  vapid  and  trashy 
literature. 

It  is  not  wonderful,  that  with  this  state  of  things  a 
generally  confessed  laxity  prevailed  in  the  morals  of 
the  great  mass,  that  gambling,  drunkenness.  Sabbath- 
breaking,  and  kindred  vices,  found  here  a  fruitful  soil, 
on  which  to  grow  and  thrive. 

But  with  all  that  has  been  in  conflict  with  the  real 
progress  of  the  Lake  Superior  region,  recent  indica- 
tions foreshadow  a  proud  destiny  as  at  hand.  Bound 
now  to  the  great  east,  by  a  vast  chain  of  lakes  and 
rivers,  soon  to  be  connected  by  railroad  to  the  vast 
west  and  the  far  south,  instead  of  being  a  barbarous 
verge,  fringing  the  outskirts  of  civilization,  it  is  to 
become  the  center  of  eastern  and  western  civilization, 
drawing  from  the  moral  and  intellectual  resources  of 


MISSION  ART  LIFE.  431 

both,  and  enriclimg  both,  in  turn,  by  the  fruits  of  in- 
dustry and  enterprise.  Her  towns  and  cities  must 
multiply — her  population  greatly  increase,  and  the 
vast  riches  of  her  mines  be  rendered  more  and  more 
available. 

Thank  God,  the  institutions  of  the  Church  have 
already  a  footing  among  the  people,  and  we  trust  a 
firm  hold  on  their  generous  sympathies.  Now  is  the 
time  of  planting.  The  season  for  fruit-gathering  is 
at  hand.  Our  schools  and  churches  are  destined  yet 
to  dot  that  land — the  trees  of  the  forest  to  "clap 
their  hands."  "The  inhabitants  of  the  rocks"  begin 
already  to  "  sing  and  to  shout  from  the  top  of  the 
mountains." 

The  writer  may  be  allowed,  in  conclusion,  to  ex- 
press his  ardent  desire  for  the  continued  prosperity 
of  this  interesting  region;  and  that  the  institutions 
of  the  Church,  as  conducing  to  this  result,  may  keep 
pace  with  the  progress  of  the  country.  His  prayer 
is,  that  enlarged  prosperity  may  attend  the  missions 
among  the  Indians  and  the  miners,  and  that  the 
Church  may  yet  have  abundant  cause  of  joy,  and 
none  of  regret,  at  the  expense  and  pains  she  has 
bestowed  on  the  cultivation  of  this  field. 


THE  END. 


A.   HNTE-^^   book:. 


Pik^^rB  Cigljta  auLT  Sljaitcs  of  iilissionarjj  Hiit 


OPINIONS     OF     THE     PRESS. 

Lights  akd  Shades  of  Missioxart  Life:  Containing  Travel?,  Sketches,  Inci 
dents,  and  Missionary  EfiForts  during  nine  years  spent  in  the  region  of  Lake  Sa- 
perior.  By  Rev.  John  II.  Pitezel,  of  the  Michigan  conference.  Illustrated. 
Price,  $1,  uith  the  usual  discount. 

This  is  a  good  book,  well  calculated  to  animate  the  Church  with  a  more  earnest 
zeal  in  the  support  of  missions  and  the  ministry  with  a  bolder  heroism  in  the 
more  difliculLand  dangerous  passages  of  ministerial  duty.  God  grant  his  bless- 
ing to  accompany  it,  and  may  it  have  a  wide  field  I — Pittsburg  Chnstian  Advocate. 

Among  the  remnant  of  the  old  and  warlike  Indian  nations  once  inhabiting 
this  country,  our  missionaries  have  labored  to  bring,  if  possible,  a  perishing  race 
to  the  knowledge  of  Christ.  To  this  holy  work  Mr.  Pitezel  devoted,  at  the  call 
of  the  Church,  nine  years  of  active,  laborious,  and  successful  effort.  lie  tells  his 
story  in  a  practical,  common-sense  way.  lie  invents  no  fictions,  varnishes  no 
tales.  Nevertheless,  the  Christian  reader  will  find  deep  interest  in  tracing  the 
every-day  life  of  a  missionary  in  such  a  vv^ork. — Ladies'  Hepository. 

This  is  an  exceedingly  readable  book,  full  of  thrilling  incidents;  containing 
much  valuable  information  in  relation  to  a  region  and  a  people  that  are  now  at- 
tracting mvioh  attention.  It  will  be  found  a  very  agreeable  companion  for  old 
and  young  during  the  long  winter  evenings.  We  bespeak  for  it  an  extended 
circulation.  The  mechanical  execution  Ls  in  the  bestst^'le  of  the  Western  Book 
Concern,  which,  we  confess,  is  saying  a  great  deal,  for  in  this  respect  Swormstedt 
&  Poe  have  few  equals,  and  no  superiors. —  Western  Chrisiian  Advocate. 

It  is  interesting  to  the  general  reader  for  the  observations  and  facts  in  regard 
to  the  country,  and  to  the  members  of  his  Church  and  all  Christians,  as  portray- 
ing the  sacrifices,  hardships,  discouragements,  and  successes  of  such  a  life  in  such 
a  country  and  under  such  circumst^inces. — Mich.  State  Journal. 

The  book  will  be  found  very  interesting  as  regards  the  history  of  the  country 
and  the  habits  of  the  Indians  remaining  there.  It  contains  several  beautiful  eu- 
gravings. — Lansing  liep. 

Having  enjoyed  an  acquaintance  with  brother  Pitezel,  and  many  others  who 
.  are  now  laboring  with  the  Indians  in  the  Lake  Superior  region,  v/e  were  prepared 
to  expect  a  book  full  of  interest,  and  giving  clear  indications  of  industry  and 
sound  judgment.  We  are  not  disappointed.  The  book  is  valuable  for  its  facts, 
for  its  opinions  and  suggestions.  We  hope  it  will  have  an  extepsive  sale. — U. 
O.  Haven,  D.  D.,  Editor  of  Zion's  Herald,  Boston. 

It  is  an  extraordinary  narrative  of  labors,  sufferings,  and  successes,  varied  by 
entertaining  anecdotes  and  romantic  adventures.  Indian  Ufe  is  abundantly  illus- 
trated in  it. — Clnnstia.n  Advocate  and  Journal. 

The  descriptions  of  Lake  Superior  country  and  scenery  are  finely  written  and 
are  peculiarly  attractive. — Kalamazoo  Gazette. 

If  you  would  settle,  from  calmly  and  truthfully  stated  facts,  the  power  of  grace 
to  save  red  men — if  you  would  discern  the  power  of  the  cross — if  j-ou  would  see 
'•  the  homes  and  haunts  "  of  the  original  proud  owners  of  these  woodlands — if  you 
would  have  your  heart  affected  with  convictions  of  dLnty  toward  a  neglected  peo- 
ple, then  order  "  Lights  and  Shades  of  Missionary  Life,"  by  John  H.  Pitezel. — 
North-  Western  Cltristian  Advocate. 

Resolutions  of  Miclxlgan  and  Detroit  Conferences. 

The  following  resolution  was  adopted  by  the  Michigan  conference : 

Resolved,  That  we  recommend  to  our  people  Kev.  J,  H.  Pitezel's  publication 
entitled  "  Lights  and  Shades  of  Missionary  Life,"  and  will  encourage  its  sale  in 
our  charges. 

The  following  is  a  copy  of  the  resolution  passed  by  the  Detroit*  annual  confer- 
ence: 

Resolved,  That  we  heartily  commend  to  oar  people  the  book  published  by  Rev. 
J.H.PitezeL 


